why basil gets spindly in late summer—and how to fix it fast for bushier plants

Gardening

Why Basil Gets Spindly in Late Summer—and How to Fix It Fast for Bushier Plants

Drescription

Harvesting fragrant basil leaves for use in dishes like pesto is one of the joys of summer for gardeners. But without the proper care and conditions, even a once-healthy basil plant can start to look a little worse for wear by late summer.

Luckily, there are plenty of strategies to revive your basil plant and help it keep putting out new growth for you to enjoy for the rest of the season.

Here's how to rescue a basil plant that has seen better days—and prevent it from getting leggy in the first place.

Why Basil Gets Leggy in Late Summer

Basil may grow tall and leggy in late summer for a few different reasons. Very hot weather encourages bolting, or the production of flowers and eventually seeds, which can draw energy away from leaf production.

It's also possible that your basil has been struggling without enough light, causing it to become leggy and etiolated. Overfertilizing may also cause basil plants to grow too much too quickly, creating a tall, leggy growth habit.

Another possible reason your basil plants get leggy in late summer could be a lack of regular pruning. Pinching back the tips of young plants and regularly harvesting stems from mature plants can create a fuller, bushier growth habit and encourage new growth.

Signs Your Basil Needs a Midseason Rescue

Lots of flowers but not much leaf growth. Basil's tiny purple or white flowers look pretty, but allowing the plants to bloom continuously can take energy away from growing more fragrant, tender leaves. Pinching off the flowers will help your basil redirect that energy to foliage. Providing consistent water during heat waves or periods of drought can help, too.

Tall stems with lots of space between leaf nodes. If your basil plant is looking leggy and etiolated, it's not getting enough sunlight, hasn't been pruned regularly, or some combination of the two. Giving your plant at least six hours of full sun per day and pruning it regularly (read: harvesting this delicious herb) just above a leaf node will encourage fuller, bushier growth.

Short, stubby stems. If you have been harvesting your basil regularly and cutting stems down to the lower nodes, new growth may look short and stubby for a while. Allow stems to grow at least 6 inches tall before harvesting again, and avoid removing more than about 30 percent of total plant growth during any one pruning session.

How to Fix and Regrow a Leggy Basil Plant

If your basil has already grown tall and leggy by late summer, don't fret—you can take steps to revitalize its growth and ensure a strong harvest through the end of the season. Start by evaluating your plant's light conditions and your watering habits.

If your plant is potted and isn't receiving full sun, consider moving it to a sunnier spot. Be sure to water the plant on hot days with no rain. If your soil isn't particularly fertile or you haven't fertilized in a while, consider giving the plant a boost with a balanced fertilizer.

Next, prune back your basil plant. Cut back leggy stems to just above a set of side shoots, which should grow more vigorously after pruning. Remember to remove no more than one-third of the total plant growth at any one time. Plan to prune your basil plant like this every two to three weeks going forward.

Don’t Cut Too Soon—The Right Way to Harvest Rosemary Without Ruining Your Plant

Fragrant rosemary is a staple in your culinary toolkit—and it's even better when you've harvested your own. Fresh rosemary is more flavorful and aromatic than dried, and the plant is easy to grow in your yard, kitchen garden, or even in a container on your patio. Here's how to harvest rosemary the right way, plus tips for storing and preserving this tasty herb for later use. When to Harvest Rosemary You can harvest small amounts of rosemary as needed at any time of year. Summer is also a good time to harvest rosemary to dry, freeze, or otherwise preserve, as warm weather and lots of daylight give the plant the conditions it needs to regrow. However, avoid taking more than 20 percent of the plant at any one time to avoid damaging it and hindering regrowth. Wait until plants are at least 3 years old before harvesting.1 The ideal time to harvest rosemary is in the morning, after any morning dew has evaporated but before the hottest part of the day. For the most flavor, consider harvesting rosemary when buds have formed on the plant but before the flowers have opened, as the oils are most concentrated during this time.2 Note that rosemary flowers are also edible and can be harvested along with the foliage. How to Harvest Rosemary the Right Way Wait until plants are 6 to 8 inches tall before taking your first harvest. Examine your rosemary plant and look for healthy, tender stems. Avoid cutting into woody stems. Use sterilized scissors or pruners to cut tender branches just below a leaf node. To harvest small amounts, cut stem tips—the 2 to 3 inches at the end of each branch. To harvest rosemary for drying or preserving, cut sections of softwood that are around 8 inches long. Avoid removing more than about a quarter of total plant growth at any one time. Wait for small plants to regrow what you've removed before harvesting again. 3 Tip You can support overall plant health by harvesting the tender tips of rosemary regularly. This can encourage a bushier, more compact growth habit while spurring regrowth. Wait until after the plant has flowered to do more significant annual pruning. How to Store Rosemary Here's how to store your rosemary harvest, whether you plan to add the fresh herb to recipes or preserve it for future use. Storing Fresh The best way to store freshly harvested rosemary is in the refrigerator. Wrap the sprigs loosely in a slightly damp paper towel, enclose them in a plastic bag without sealing it, and put them in your vegetable crisper. The herb can last for up to two weeks when stored properly.4 Drying Drying is an easy and hands-off way to preserve rosemary. Rinse sprigs off to remove any dust or dirt, but avoid getting clean sprigs wet. Allow any surface moisture to dry by laying out the rosemary on a clean, dry paper towel. Once dry, cut away any dead or damaged plant growth before tying herbs into loose bundles. Hang the bundles in a warm, dark, dry place with good ventilation. Avoid exposing the rosemary to sunlight, which can cause it to degrade and lose flavor and color prematurely. You can also dry rosemary sprigs in a food dehydrator or by laying the sprigs out on a screen, turning them frequently to help them dry evenly.2 Dried herbs retain their best flavor and aroma for 3 months after harvest when stored at room temperature or up to a year if stored in the freezer.5 Freezing Rinse rosemary sprigs or tips to remove dirt if needed, then allow them to dry thoroughly. Place the herb in a zipper-lock freezer bag and press out the air before sealing. Label the bag with the name of the herb and the date, then store it in the freezer for up to a year. Another option is to strip the leaves from each sprig and place them in ice cube trays. Top off with water or olive oil and freeze, then store the cubes in a zipper-lock bag in the freezer. Avoid refreezing rosemary after it thaws.

Yellow Leaves on Your Begonias? 5 Things Gardeners Say You Should Check Right Now

Begonias are a favorite flower of both indoor and outdoor gardeners. Varieties like angel wing begonias and rex begonias make attractive houseplants thanks to their vividly patterned leaves, while wax begonias add cheer to garden beds with colorful blooms. But without the proper care and conditions, begonia leaves can turn yellow, signaling that something isn't right with your plant. The good news is that yellow leaves are your plant's way of communicating that something is wrong. The bad news is that several different factors could be the cause, so you'll need to do some investigating to address the problem. Here's why your begonia leaves may be turning yellow—and the first thing you should check to keep your plant looking healthy. Overwatering In general, the most likely cause of yellow begonia leaves is too much water due to either overwatering, poorly draining soils, or a container without adequate drainage. When your plant's soil remains soggy and saturated, its roots can't take up oxygen properly, leading to chlorosis, or yellowing leaves. Left untreated, overwatering can eventually result in root rot, which can seriously damage or even kill your plant. If your begonia has very wet, soggy soil or is planted in an area with poor drainage, that's likely the cause of its yellow leaves. Cut back on watering outdoor plants if possible. For container begonias, allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again. Going forward, check soil moisture regularly and only water once the top inch or so is dry. Consider repotting your plant in a potting mix that includes plenty of perlite for drainage, and ensure that the pot it's planted in has holes in the bottom. Avoid letting the plant sit in water in its cache pot or drip tray. Lack of Sunlight Begonias that don't receive sufficient sunlight may develop yellow leaves because they're not able to photosynthesize as much due to lack of light, which in turn creates similar conditions to overwatering, as plants use water as they turn sunlight into food. Indoors, begonias need bright, indirect light to thrive. Move container plants closer to the light source. Too Much Sunlight A begonia that's planted in a spot that gets an overabundance of harsh, direct sunlight can suffer from sunburn. The plant may develop pale brown spots on its leaves before slowly turning yellow and falling off. Move indoor or container begonias to a spot out of direct sun but with lots of indirect light. For in-ground plantings, consider installing shade cloth—and plan to seek out begonia varieties with a tolerance for full sun next season. Pest Problems Begonias can fall prey to common plant pests like mites, scale, whiteflies, and mealybugs, as well as slugs and snails when planted outdoors. Pest damage may appear as tiny yellow dots, or patches, or the edges of plant leaves may turn yellow and then brown. Examine your plant's leaves and stems closely for signs of pests, such as flat, oval-shaped brown bumps (scale insects), cottony masses (mealybugs), or sticky honeydew, which can be left behind by these sap-sucking insects as they feed. After quarantining your begonia from the rest of your collection, treat infested plants with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap to remove pests. Cut off any severely damaged leaves, bag them securely, and discard them in the trash to keep them from spreading. Monitor the plant closely and treat again if signs of pests return. Plant Diseases Some plant diseases can cause begonia leaves to turn yellow. Bacterial leaf spot can appear as yellow rings around water-soaked leaf areas, but it can be prevented by keeping the leaves as dry as possible during watering. Cut away damaged plant parts, bag them up, and throw them away—then sterilize your tools to keep from spreading the disease. Viruses can cause pale yellow rings or spots to form on begonia leaves as well. If you suspect a virus is the problem, remove, bag, and discard infected plants to prevent spread.

How to Pack for Multiple Climates and Transitional Weather

Traveling to places with variable weather can make packing an even bigger challenge. Whether you're traveling in between seasons or visiting multiple climates in one vacation, packing for these trips requires a bit more planning. It's impossible to bring something for every season—at least not without bringing massive amounts of luggage—but there are tricks to efficiently craft an adaptive wardrobe that will prepare you for a range of weather conditions. Start by checking the weather forecast and packing a travel-sized umbrella. Then, try these expert tips for packing a versatile travel wardrobe that will help you enjoy your trip—no matter the weather. Priyanka Swamy is the founder of Perfect Locks LLC. Maye Srouji is the CEO of Milles Collines, a clothing company based in Cape Town, South Africa. Pack Lots of Layers “Packing for transitional weather is all about versatility,” says Priyanka Swamy, the founder of Perfect Locks LLC. Packing layer-able clothing offers versatility for long day trips if the temperature changes. Swamy says these are pieces that can be added or removed easily. "Lightweight sweaters, cardigans, and scarves can be worn with warm and cool outfits," she adds. Plus, layer-able clothing also means maximizing the number of outfits you can wear during the trip without sacrificing comfort. This is especially true if you have limited weight or space in your luggage. “Whether it’s a weekend getaway, a day out in nature or a trip…I keep layering in mind, along with comfort,” says Maye Srouji, CEO of Milles Collines, a clothing company based in Cape Town, South Africa. Layering also helps if weather changes cause a change of plans. (For example, your outdoor hiking day may turn into a day of indoor museum exploring if there's a downpour.) Srouji recommends packing the following: a light summer dress light skirt a few basic tops a cozy button-down sweater a few pairs of your favorite jeans or pants a loose linen or cotton shirt that layers well If you're traveling in cooler climates or cooler weather, you'll want to add a wind-breaking jacket, ideally as thin as possible while still providing warmth. Include Rain Gear Srouji adds that living on the coast has taught her to never leave the house without a jacket. Many seaside cities experience similarly unpredictable weather. There’s always a chance of rain—even if the forecast predicts clear skies and sunshine. So, if you're traveling to a beach destination, be sure to bring a waterproof jacket or a foldable trench, just in case. “Remember to pack a small umbrella or raincoat in case of an unexpected downpour,” says Swamy. Travel-sized umbrellas can be tucked into a carry-on, but some are no match for the combo of wind and water. Whether in Prague or Peru, the ultimate hack is to carry a disposable rain poncho that can easily fit in your purse or fanny pack. Pack Versatile Footwear Instead of bringing one pair of shoes for each possible weather condition, bring adaptable shoes that work for different ground conditions and across multiple outfits. “Pack versatile footwear such as ankle boots or sneakers that can handle rain and shine,” says Swamy. If done right, you only need to pack three types of shoes that can handle different weather and can work for different excursions. Srouji recommends packing a pair of sneakers that can be paired with dresses and pants, a pair of simple sandals, and evening shoes in case of a special, formal occasion. Don’t forget about comfort when you're picking out shoes, especially if you’re planning on walking or hiking. Research how hilly or grassy your destination is, and whether the sidewalks are made of cobblestone or cement. Knowing these little details can help you choose between wedges and stilettos, platforms and pumps. It’s safe to say that rubber soles are always a good idea. Aim for walkable, comfortable, and stylish shoes, no matter the destination. Always Have a Scarf If there’s one unique accessory Srouji recommends travelers pack, it’s a scarf. Scarves are too versatile to leave behind. They can protect your hair from sudden rain, your neck from a draft, and your arms and shoulders from an unexpected chill. If travelling with children, scarves can also become multi-functional tools to help with feeding, changing, and sleeping. (And they're essential to wear on planes, where the temperatures can shift. Use scarves to enhance different outfits, adding a chic touch on top of function. Because they are lightweight and easy to pack, you can bring a few different styles in different materials. A silky square can be tied to your purse, used to cover your hair, or wrapped around your neck in a pinch. A waterproof fleece, cashmere, or wool scarf, on the other hand, is a bit bulkier, but can still be easily folded into the front pocket of any carry-on or large purse. Pay Attention to Fabric Fabrics can make or break any outfit, but this is especially true when on an excursion with flip-floppy weather. “Choose breathable and insulating fabrics, like cotton and merino wool,” says Swamy. Linen and bamboo are also excellent materials for extreme heat. Mix and match combinations to maximize preparedness for unpredictable weather. If there's even the slightest chance of rain, be careful with wearing leather, suede, velvet, and silk. Heavy denim can also be a drag in rain and peak heat. Synthetic fabrics tend to make you sweat more, so beware of polyester, a popular water-resistant fabric. Remember to choose colors wisely, too. Dark colored fabrics attract and trap heat, which may be a boon in cooler climates, but not so great in summer or tropical heat. Also be sure to avoid any fabrics or colors that will become see-through when wet—whether from rain showers, snow, or perspiration. Wear Bulky Layers on the Plane If you want to bring a warmer coat, a bulky sweater, or need a pair of hiking boots for your trip, consider wearing them on the plane instead of packing them. That'll help you reserve space in your luggage for your other items. (Just keep in mind that the boots will require a bit of work to get on and off when you pass through airport security.)

How Far Apart Should You Plant Tomatoes in Your Garden?

Know what kind of tomato plant you're sowing—determinate tomatoes need less space than indeterminate varieties. Determinate tomato varieties do better in containers or raised beds because they do not need as much space. Proper spacing of tomato plants protects from potential diseases and set plants up to fruit more. Whether you start your tomatoes from seed or buy tomato seedlings, keep in mind while you plant them that proper spacing is essential for successful growing. As a rule of thumb, allow 2 to 3 feet of space in all directions for each plant, though the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you're planting.1 Read on to learn about properly spacing determinate vs. indeterminate tomatoes, the pitfalls of insufficient spacing, and other tomato growing tips. Spacing Determinate vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes Before planting, check the seed package or the plant label, which should tell you if the tomato variety is determinate or indeterminate. Both tomato types are vines, but determinate tomatoes require less space than indeterminate tomatoes so the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you are planting. Tomato spacing is usually given in two measurements: space between plants and space between rows. Determinate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes grow only to a certain height, then flower, set fruit, and ripen within a short timeframe. They can be planted as little as one to two feet apart (though ideally in the 18-14 inches range) in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. The plants are often compact enough that they don’t require support. Because of their limited growth, they also don’t need pruning. Indeterminate Tomatoes Indeterminate tomatoes are the exact opposite—they have a long growing season that only ends with the first fall frost. They need a much more generous spacing than determinate tomatoes and should be spaced at least three to four feet apart in rows at least four feet apart. Indeterminate tomatoes should always be staked, trellised, or caged. Pruning the plants is also essential to keep the vigorous growth under control. Why It's Important to Space Tomatoes Properly Proper spacing between plants is important to keep tomato plants healthy. Even with the best care, these plants are prone to numerous diseases including fungal diseases (like early blight and late blight) and viruses (like tomato mosaic virus). Plants growing in crowded conditions with poor air circulation are an ideal breeding ground for fungal diseases to spread. Generous spacing between tomato plants is also important to give you easy access for pruning, weeding, and harvesting without the risk of damaging neighboring plants. Signs Tomatoes Are Planted Too Close Together Unfortunately, not giving your tomato plants sufficient space will backfire sooner or later in the growing season. You'll know that you skimped on spaced if these symptoms are true of your plants. Poor harvest. The plants are growing slowly or producing a poor harvest because they are competing for nutrients and water. No visual borders. You cannot tell where one plant ends, and the next one starts because the vines have become entangled. Soggy foliage. The foliage remains wet for hours after rainfall even in warm summer weather because there is inadequate airflow. Difficulty harvesting. Harvesting the tomatoes is tedious because you cannot easily access the plants from all sides. Additional Tomato Growing Tips To make your tomato season a success, here are some other key tips for growing delicious tomatoes: Plant them in full sun where they get at least six to eight hours daily. Get the soil ready for planting with soil amendments and compost. Also, check if the pH is on target (between 6.2 and 6.8).2 Fertilize them every two weeks during the growing season. Make sure to water the plants deeply and regularly at the base. Harvest them at the right time. Not all tomatoes are red when they are ripe so know the checklist of signs to look for.