shoppers say this quince carry on is sturdy, lightweight, and spacious, and it costs $155 less than similar suitcases

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Shoppers Say This Quince Carry-On Is Sturdy, Lightweight, and Spacious, and It Costs $155 Less Than Similar Suitcases

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Having good luggage can make or break your vacation. You don’t want to be dealing with a suitcase that’s hard to roll or a cheap bag that breaks in the middle of the airport. Hundreds of shoppers trust this Quince carry-on for their travels, and it costs $155 less than similar suitcases. In fact, one reviewer said they threw out their more expensive luggage and replaced it with this bag because it’s so lightweight and easy to maneuver. We recommend grabbing it now for the rest of your summer travels or upcoming fall trips.

Quince Small Carry-On Suitcase

Quince's hard-shell suitcase is made of sturdy, water-resistant polycarbonate that can stand up to rough handling and is easy to clean. At 22 by 14.4 by 9.1 inches (including the wheels), the carry-on fits into the overhead bins of most major airlines. Though it’s compact, it has a spacious 40-liter capacity that can fit up to seven outfits, according to the brand. You can likely squeeze in a few more pieces with the interior compression panel, too. Plus, the bag nests into Quince checked luggage for easy storage.

Thanks to the 360-degree rotating wheels and adjustable telescopic handle, you’ll have no difficulty rolling the suitcase through the airport or train station. Shoppers say the wheels have stayed pristine even through cobblestone roads, rough cement areas, trains, and more. The bag has easy-to-grab top and side handles to lift it into overhead compartments or in and out of vehicles, too. The carry-on also has a TSA-approved combination lock to keep your belongings safe. But it’s not just functional—the sleek bag comes in three gorgeous colors: olive, wine, and tan.

The suitcase’s large interior pocket (17 by 12 inches) is perfect for storing toiletries or small items, like socks and underwear. The carry-on even comes with a removable laundry bag, so you don’t have to stuff your dirty clothes next to clean ones during your travels. One side of the suitcase zips closed to keep everything in place, and the other has buckled straps that you can tighten to compress your clothes.

According to customers, the carry-on is sturdy, lightweight, and spacious. One reviewer shared, “This bag has been on an incredible journey around the world for 10 months! It’s been traveling on all sorts of transportation and terrains, and it’s still going strong.”

Another shopper said, “I have now had this suitcase for almost a year, and it has exceeded every expectation. The handle for rolling is very comfortable, and the bag has stood up very well! Even after getting gate checked. I have taken this on eight flights and several road trips, and it looks the same [as] it did when I bought it!”

Shop the Quince Small Carry-On Suitcase now, and find even more travel must-haves from Quince below, including checked luggage, packing cubes, toiletry bags, and more.

Quince Carry-On Suitcase

Quince Expandable Carry-On Suitcase

Quince Medium Check-In Suitcase

Quince Small Carry-On and Large Check-In Suitcase Bundle

Quince Eco Compression Packing Cubes (6-Pack)

I Started My First Herb Garden for Under $30 at Trader Joe's, and Now It’s Thriving

I live in New York City, where paved parks are far more common than community gardens—so my lack of gardening experience shouldn't come as a surprise to you. Last year, I moved into a new apartment and have had the pleasure of having not just one, but two balconies. The catch is that they're both tiny, 4x6 foot spaces that can't accommodate much. Since this is my first time having private outdoor space, I was determined to make something of my balcony this year and got the brilliant idea: why don't I start an herb garden? The rest is history. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How I Started My First Herb Garden for Under $30 I'll be very honest upfront: the bulk of my garden cost came from everything but the herbs. I got a small, affordable bag of garden soil for about $10 from my local grocery store, and reused some hanging balcony planters that I had bought for an earlier (failed) attempt at outdoor gardening. The herbs themselves were $2.99 a pop from Trader Joe's, and I got myself some rosemary, cilantro, and basil—all for less than $10! Purchasing planters can obviously push you over that $30 mark, but it doesn't have to. As long as you have a vessel you can drill a drainage hole into, anything can be a planter—even your coffee mugs. Once I got the herbs from Trader Joe's, I took them out of the nursery pot that they came in, gently removed the dirt from around the plant, and then replanted it into my balcony planter with the fresh soil. This might seem like cheating to some since I did not grow these herbs from seed, but I've been known to kill even the toughest plants, so I try to eliminate any factors working against me. And, for the record, there are a lot of factors working against me here: It's my first time gardening outdoors, I've killed more plants than I want to admit, my balcony honestly doesn't get a lot of sunlight, and I don't have any of the tools that most gardeners typically have. How I Keep My Herb Garden Thriving in a Small Space (Without Gardening Experience) I went with herbs because it felt like the most small-space-friendly thing to grow, and I needed something I wouldn't have to repot anytime soon. I was determined to give these plants everything they needed to thrive, so a lot of my garden maintenance looks like moving the pots around to ensure everyone gets the same amount of sunlight. I also established a weekly watering schedule, where I give my herbs a light watering if I know there's rain in the forecast, or a deeper watering if I know we're having a dry spell. Maintenance tasks have never been my thing (I only recently learned that pruning is actually necessary for many plants to thrive) but I've also taken to giving my plants a good prune with kitchen scissors every now and then to promote healthier growth. There was a moment when I thought my herbs with goners for sure, but they're bouncing back and thriving. I haven't harvested any of my herbs yet for use in my kitchen, but my balcony smells fantastic, so I'm winning regardless.

Petunia Leaves Turning Yellow? You Should Check This First, a Gardener Says

Petunias, known for their vibrant blooms, are one of the easiest flowers to care for and grow in your outdoor flower bed. While they're very forgiving with their care needs, there are some instances when you might start to notice the green leaves turning an unsightly shade of yellow. When this starts to happen, it's important to identify the problem immediately so you can nurture your petunias back to health. Here are the top six reasons that causes yellow petunia leaves, according to an expert, and how to fix each cause. Meet the Expert Ondrea Kidd is the lead floral designer and founder of Sowing Joy Farm in Post Falls, ID. Nutrient Deficiency Once you've planted your petunias, watered them enough, and see that the plant has become established, the work doesn't stop there. Without ensuring your petunias have consistent nutrients, you might start to see yellowing leaves. "After the initial planting, it is important to give your petunias regular feedings every two to three weeks," Ondrea Kidd, lead floral designer and founder of Sowing Joy Farm, says. "I suggest a natural fertilizer such as Neptune’s Harvest and a top dressing of worm castings. These natural fertilizers amend your soil without causing any burning." She also says that you will be able to tell that a lack of nutrients is the leading cause for yellowing leaves if there's no dryness or dampness to the soil. "A good feeding followed by regular subsequent feeds will fix this problem," she adds. "You will want to remove any unsightly leaves to allow the nutrients to go to new growth and roots." Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Overwatering Of course, water plays a huge part in whether or not you start to notice yellowing leaves on your petunias. One of the ways water can lead to this leaf color is from overwatering. "Petunias love predictable watering schedules but like to dry out a bit in between waterings," Kidd says. "The main symptoms of overwatering with petunias are soggy or mushy yellowing leaves lower on the plant." She also says you may see root rot and very damp and soggy soil as other potential symptoms of an overwatered petunia. The good news is that she says this problem is an easy fix that your plant can bounce back from! "Allow the top inch or so to dry out in between waterings," Kidd says. " How fast it dries out will depend on your environment, so check the soil often." Under-watering While overwatering is a common cause for yellowing petunia leaves, so is under-watering. "If your petunia leaves are drying and becoming crispy and your soil is dry, it’s a good bet that the reason is under-watering," Kidd says. "You want the top layer of your soil to dry between waterings, but not to the point where you have more than an inch or so that is very dry." Kidd says under-watering is also an easy fix, like overwatering. "Simply remove all dried-out leaves, give the petunias a good soak to desaturate the soil, and then monitor the dryness of the soil and water as needed." If you live in an area that's prone to dry heat, wind, and very high temperatures, Kidd suggests watering the plant daily in the evenings so that the plant has time to really soak up the water. Pests & Diseases Like most plants, petunias are susceptible to the occasional pest and disease invasion from time to time. This is also a common cause for yellowing leaves that Kidd says is important to catch in the early stages. "The most common pest that likes to invade petunias is aphids," Kidd shares. "Inspect your plants frequently for signs of pests, and at the first sign of aphid infestation, I suggest a water treatment that will cause the aphids to fall right off." For diseases, Kidd says petunias are most likely to contract the Tobacco Mosaic virus, which, sadly, doesn't have a cure. Lack of Sunlight Petunias grow best in an area that allows them to get at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Without this, you could start to see yellow leaves on your plant. "To fix this problem, move your petunias to a sunny spot or remove any overhanging foliage of other plants that may be causing the shadiness." The good news is that Kidd says petunias are easy to move and are very forgiving when having to move to another location. "If you need to move them from the ground, dig around the bae with a spade to make sure you are getting all the roots and replace them in a sunny area with a similar-sized hole," she says. Age Lastly, the age of your petunia plant can play a factor in yellow leaves. Kidd says this is very common since the plant will yellow and dry up the older the plant gets. "To prolong the life and season of your petunia and keep it looking its best, deadhead all spent and wilting blooms," Kidd says. "By not letting your bloom go to seed, it will keep the petunia thinking it needs to continue blooming."

Don’t Let a Wilting Tomato Plant Ruin Your Harvest—Here’s How to Save It Fast

Tomato plants are the most commonly grown vegetable in the garden because they thrive in summer temperatures and produce delicious fresh produce.1 Novice and experienced gardeners carefully plant and tend the tomato plants, only to discover the plants wilting and dying one day. The cause can be something as simple as a lack of water or more complex, like fungal wilt diseases, tomato wilt viruses, walnut toxicity, or boring insects. When you discover a wilting tomato plant, it's important to act quickly and decisively to protect your other tomato plants. Follow our guide on the causes of wilting tomatoes and suggested fixes. Lack of Water Healthy tomato plants planted in garden soil require approximately one inch of water per week, and container-grown plants require approximately one gallon of water daily. A lack of water will cause the tomato plants to wilt, but if that is the only cause, they will revive rapidly after watering. Solution: Regularly apply water directly to the soil with a garden or soaker hose. To maintain a consistent level of moisture stick your finger into the soil at the base of the plant. If the soil is moist at a depth of two inches, don’t water but check the soil again the next day. If the soil is dry to the touch at a depth of two inches, slowly apply water to the plants so the water seeps into the soil. If you must use an overhead sprinkler, water in the morning so the foliage dries quickly to help prevent disease. Fungal Wilt Diseases Striking without warning, verticillium and fusarium wilt are two common causes of a seemingly healthy tomato plant wilting and dying within a few days. Both diseases are caused by fungal spores in the garden soil. The spores enter the plant through the root system and block the movement of water and nutrients. This causes the plant to wilt, turn yellow, and die. Other fungal diseases, early tomato blight and southern blight may not kill the plants but will greatly inhibit their fruit production. Solution: Unfortunately there is no treatment for fungal wilt diseases. The infected tomato plants should be removed and discarded. Do not place the diseased plants in your compost pile to help prevent the spread of the fungi. To help ensure healthy plants in the garden, rotate crops and do not plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, or potato plants in the same location every year. Since the fungi can live for several years, consider container-grown tomatoes for several years. You can also select tomato varieties that are resistant to fungal wilts. Look for plants labeled with 'VF' on the plant tag. Tomato Wilt Viruses Dozens of tomato viruses can cause tomato plants to wilt and die.2 Two of the most common are Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV) and Tomato Mosaic Virus (ToMV), which cause stunted growth, wilting, and unattractive fruit. The source of the virus can be other plants, seeds, or insects. The virus can be spread from one infected plant to others through your hands, gloves, or tools. Solution: There is no treatment for these viruses, and the plants should be removed and discarded to help prevent the spread of the virus. Look for virus-resistant varieties, rotate crops regularly, and wash your hands and garden tools after handling infected plants to help prevent the spread. Black Walnut Toxicity Black walnut trees and tomatoes do not belong together. All parts of the tree exude juglone, a toxin that causes stunted growth, wilting foliage, and death for tomato plants. Since the greatest concentration of juglone exists nearest the tree, plant tomatoes at least 20 to 25 feet away from the tree's dripline. Solution: Unfortunately, juglone cannot be eliminated from the soil and once tomatoes are affected, there is no treatment to save them. Removing the tree will not solve the problem because juglone can be found in the root system after the tree is cut down. If your gardening space is limited, consider container-grown tomatoes. Boring Insects The stalk borer is a purple and cream-striped caterpillar that can attack tomato plants and cause wilting and death of the plant. The caterpillar bores into the stem through a tiny hole and tunnels inside the plant destroying tissue. Solution: Once the borer has done its damage, the tomato plant should be removed and destroyed. There are no insecticides that will control the larva of this inconspicuous grayish-brown moth. To help prevent borers, keep weedy areas around the garden mowed well. How to Help Prevent Tomato Wilting Maintain a steady watering routine. Monitor weather conditions and provide one to two inches of water per week to the roots of the tomato plant. Do not allow the soil to become overly dry or overwater so the roots are left soggy. Provide adequate spacing between plants. Plant so that there is space between each tomato plant for air to flow freely to help prevent air-borne diseases. Practice crop rotation. Do not plant tomatoes in the same locations year after year. Rotate crops to allow soil-borne diseases to die. Maintain an orderly garden. Remove weeds that can attract harmful insects and spread diseases. Mulch to help maintain soil moisture. Cage or stake tomato plants to keep the fruit off the ground to limit disease spread. Buy disease-resistant seeds or transplants. Read seed packets, catalogs, and plant tags carefully to select disease-resistant tomato varieties. Cornell University maintains an excellent list to help you with plant selection.

How Many Cucumbers Should My Plant Grow? Plus Tips for Boosting Your Yield

Cucumbers are one of the easiest plants you can grow in your summer garden, but just how many cucumbers you can expect to harvest from a single plant depends on several different factors. Some of it depends on a gardener's level of experience. The weather, cucumber variety, and whether or not the cucumber plant is trellised properly can also impact the number of fruits it will produce in a season. Want to boost your cucumber yield? Follow these guidelines to get the most out of your cucumber plants this summer. What Determines the Number of Cucumbers Per Plant? A cucumber plant can produce more cucumbers during the growing season than you might expect. Depending on the variety and growing conditions, a healthy cucumber plant can yield anywhere between 15 and 30 cucumbers during its lifetime. Varietal Differences There are more than 100 known varieties of cucumbers, which come in all shapes and sizes and fall into one of three categories: Monoecious Cucumbers These open-pollinated cucumber varieties produce both male and female flowers, which need to be pollinated by a pollinator such as bees. For every female flower grown on a monoecious cucumber plant, 10 to 20 male flowers will grow. If pollination doesn't occur, the female flower will drop off the plant and the cucumber fruit will not grow. Gynoecious Cucumbers These cucumber varieties grow all female flowers, increasing the chance for a high yield of cucumbers. These cucumber plants tend to fruit earlier. However, if not planted alongside a variety with male flowers, the female flowers may not all get pollinated, and therefore may not generate fruit. Parthenocarpic Cucumbers The most productive type of cucumber falls into the parthenocarpic cucumber category. These types of cucumbers don't require pollination in order to produce fruit, allowing the plant to be more productive. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Proper Nutrients Cucumbers are heavy feeders, meaning you need to water the plants frequently and fertilize them during the growing season to maximize harvest. To ensure your cucumber plants have all the nutrients they need, it's best to feed them weekly as soon as they start to produce flowers. To get your cucumber plant to produce more flowers, apply a phosphorus-rich fertilizer. As soon as fruit begins to form, make sure you're watering consistently. Regular Harvesting Frequent picking is essential for prolonging your cucumber harvest. When producing fruit, a plant's goal is to successfully reproduce. The more regularly you harvest the mature fruit, the longer the plant will continue producing flowers and growing new fruits. Gardening Mistakes That Result in Fewer Cucumbers These are the most common mistakes gardeners make when growing cucumbers than can affect the number of fruits a plant produces. You're planting cucumbers in the wrong spot. Cucumber plants need space to vine out and sprawl. If you're planting them in a compact space, they won't have the room to grow large enough to produce flowers and fruit. Cucumbers do best when they have a trellis to climb up. There's not enough sun. Cucumber plants need a lot of sun to thrive—at least eight hours per day. You neglect the soil health. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and need well-drained soil that is rich in nutrients. Boost your soil health by mixing compost into it. There aren't enough pollinators. Most cucumber varieties rely on pollinators such as bees to pollinate female flowers. To help this happen, add pollinator-friendly plants to attract these helpful insects to your garden. How to Maximize Your Cucumber Yield To get more cucumbers out of your crop, be sure your plant has the right nutrients from the start. Add compost to the soil and feed the plants with fertilizer when the cucumber plants begin to produce flowers. When planting your cucumber plants, select a spot that gets at least eight hours of direct sunlight. Once they start produce fruits, pick the cucumbers regularly and frequently. The more often you harvest fruit, the longer the harvest will last. To ensure they stay healthy, monitor your plants for signs of insect damage or disease and treat as soon as possible. The healthier the plant, the higher its yield will be.