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Travel

12 Packing Tricks That Save Space—So You Can Actually Zip Your Suitcase Closed

Vacations are relaxing, but packing for them? Not so much. Between decision fatigue, trying to fit everything in your suitcase, and doing all that last-minute laundry, it’s not an ideal way to kick off your time away. But knowing the right packing method—and a few pro-approved tips and tricks—can change everything. We asked a professional packer (yes, a professional packer) and luggage designers how they pack their own clothes, as well as their secrets for fitting everything in their suitcases for a less stressful and more stylish trip. 01 of 12 Start With the Right Bag According to luggage designer Lorenza Bellora, choosing the right bag is like choosing the right travel companion. “There’s no one-size-fits-all rule," she says. "It really depends on the kind of journey you’re about to take. For longer holidays or multi-activity trips, I go for a medium-to-large bag with inner compartments. But for a spontaneous getaway or a weekend escape, a structured duffel is always my go-to.” On the other hand, content creator and professional packer Brianna Apple suggests assembling what you need to pack before choosing a bag. “Pull everything out onto the couch or wherever you pack (I always have a designated packing corner), and get everything finalized, so that everything you’re bringing is all in one spot," she says. "Once you see how much stuff you’re bringing, choose a suitcase accordingly. Bigger is not always better.” 02 of 12 Plan Outfits Around Your Itinerary Being specific and intentional about what you pack ensures you won’t forget anything. Apple says she starts by going through her itinerary, then pulling what she’s considering wearing based on her plans. “Once it’s all laid out, I build outfits around each day and put anything I’m not bringing back in my closet," she says. "I try to keep looks simple and rely on accessories to switch things up so I can rewear pieces and pack less.” Still not sure if you should bring something? Luggage designer Niklas Oppermann explains there are only two categories of things you should bring on any trip: those that are versatile and those that are necessary. “If it doesn’t earn its place in the bag with versatility or necessity, it doesn’t come.” 03 of 12 Pack Around Your Favorite Clothing and Accessories If there’s something you're excited about wearing or have purchased for your trip, Apple recommends prioritizing outfits around those things. “If there are specific pieces you’re set on bringing, whether it’s a purse, a pair of shoes, or a certain top, build outfits around those first, and use those accessories to switch up other looks too," she says. "It’s all about stretching your staples and making them work multiple ways.” 04 of 12 Plan From Day to Night Apple tells me it’s best to start with daytime outfits. “Then repeat the process for night outfits, move on to pajamas, undergarments, and anything else you need to bring.” 05 of 12 Place Heavier Items First Don’t just throw everything in your luggage. According to Apple, heavier and bulkier items such as sweaters and jeans should go in first. “Then, fill in the rest like a puzzle," she suggests. 06 of 12 Hide Your Socks Socks might seem small, but they can take up valuable space. However, there is an easy but game-changing solution to this: “I always tuck socks into shoes to save space,” Apple says. 07 of 12 Don’t Fold—Roll Everyone has a finite amount of luggage space and probably more clothing than can fit in it. “Roll everything, even underwear," Apple suggests. "It saves way more space than you think and makes it easier to fit everything else.” 08 of 12 Consider Packing Cubes Whether you're going on a long or short trip, Oppermann advises staying organized with packing cubes. “Even when I’m only away for a night or two with just a backpack, I still use them," he says. "They’re brilliant for saving space, keeping things organized—like separating clean clothes from worn ones—and they minimize creasing when you unpack.” 09 of 12 Avoid Overweight Luggage Fees One of the easiest ways to avoid overweight luggage charges is to, you guessed it, weigh your luggage beforehand. You can use a regular scale you have at home, but then you might end up with an overweight bag on your return flight. So, investing in a portable luggage scale is a smart idea. They're usually inexpensive and take up less space than a candy bar. Apple recommends putting heavier items like shoes, hair tools, and handbags in your carry-on because it will free up more room in your suitcase. “I also use the purses I’m bringing to store small things like jewelry and sunglasses,” she says. 10 of 12 Shake Your Bag Down for More Space Apple’s trick for fitting every last thing into your suitcase is brilliant. “Zip the suitcase shut, then stand it up and gently bang or shake the bottom against the floor to shift everything downward," she says. "Do the same with the side of the suitcase, [and] you’ll be shocked how much space opens up at the top!” 11 of 12 Use a Garment Bag for More Formal Items If you're traveling for business or a formal event, Bellora suggests using a garment bag to make sure your clothing stays unwrinkled and on a hanger. “It keeps clothes perfectly pressed on their hanger, ready to wear upon arrival," she says. 12 of 12 Pack Before You Shop “People love to shop before vacations (who doesn’t?), but that’s usually what leads to overpacking,” Apple says. “I always suggest fully packing first, as if you’re not allowed to buy anything, so you can see what you actually have. Then, if you still need something, buy with intention instead of impulse. It’s also a great way to stay on budget!”

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Gardening

It’s Not Too Late—6 Fast-Growing Crops You Can Still Plant in Late July

For gardeners, spring is all about planting seeds and starts to give summer crops ample time to reach maturity. But planting doesn't have to end just because summer is in full swing. In fact, there are plenty of quick-growing crops you can plant in July that will mature in time for a fall or even late summer harvest. Some of these plants, like greens, simply grow quickly, especially with summer's warm temperatures and abundant sunlight, while others are bred to be "early" varieties that mature quickly. Whether you've already harvested spring or early summer crops and want to plant something in their place or simply got a late start on gardening this year, you can still plant in July to enjoy a harvest later in the season. Here are 6 fast-growing crops to consider for high summer planting in your garden. Beans Both pole beans and bush beans can be planted in July for a late summer or early fall harvest. Plant seed in a garden bed with full sun and loamy, moist, well-drained soil. Keep the soil evenly moist as the plants grow, and be sure to provide pole varieties with stakes, a trellis, or other support for them to climb. Pick the beans when their pods are flat and tender to eat them as green beans, allow them to size up in the pod for fresh shell beans, or let them dry on the vine and harvest them at the end of the season to use them as dry beans. Radishes Fast-growing radishes are an ideal addition to your vegetable garden starting in mid-July. Radishes require six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day and rich, well-drained soil to thrive. Many small varieties are ready to harvest in about a month from planting the seed. Plant again every two weeks through September to extend your radish harvest into fall. Kale Kale, collards, and other brassicas are ideal to seed in late July or early August for an abundant crop of greens in fall. Seed kale in the ground or in a container in a spot that receives rich, well-drained soil and full to part sun. Plants take roughly three months from seeding to mature and are ready to pick once they're about 12 inches tall. However, you can harvest tender leaves as baby kale to use in salads or cooking in as little as 20 to 30 days. Carrots Carrots take longer to mature than some of the fast-growing vegetables on this list, but July isn't too late to plant seed for a late summer or early fall crop. Direct seed carrots in the ground or in a container at least 12 inches deep. Choose a spot with full sun and rich, well-drained soil, or amend the site with compost before planting. Water consistently to keep carrots from splitting or cracking. Some carrot varieties can be ready to harvest in about 50 days, while others take 75 days to mature. Waiting until after your region's first frost can help your carrots taste sweeter. Beets Another fast-growing root vegetable, beets are ideal to seed in July for a late summer or early fall crop. Their seeds can germinate in hot summer temperatures up to 90°F, and the plants are also frost-tolerant. Plant beet seeds in a spot that has moist, well-drained soil and gets full to part sun (though they'll grow best with at least six hours of direct sunlight per day). If you're not a fan of the earthy flavor of red beets, consider planting golden or Chioggia varieties, which taste milder. Cover Crops While it doesn't result in an edible harvest, July could be a great time to plant a cover crop. Cover crops, also called green manure, are plants like legumes, grasses, and some brassicas that are grown before, after, or between vegetable crops to add nutrition, keep weeds down, and support overall soil health. Cover crops like legumes are often planted in spring, but quick-growing grasses like winter rye, winter wheat, annual ryegrass, and oats can be planted in midsummer or late summer after you harvest vegetables. You can let grasses planted as cover crops grow for at least one month before turning over the bed to terminate the crop. Another option is to allow the cover crop to overwinter, then turn it in before planting the following spring. However, it's important to terminate the crop before it goes to seed.

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Gardening

How to Plant a Tree the Right Way So It Thrives for Decades to Come

Trees are important landscape components that grow slowly but often outlast most other plants. They offer visual height, shade, and a habitat for birds, and well-planted trees could very well outlive you. Adding a tree to your property is a bit more complex than adding a small shrub or garden bed, but that doesn't mean it's too difficult for a DIY. You'll just need to invest time and resources into doing the job right if you want to leave your property more shaded and beautiful than you found it. Here's how to plant a tree the easy way and help it flourish for future generations. How to Plant a Tree Select Your Tree Type The best way to set yourself up for success is to choose a tree that will thrive in your local climate. Look up your region's USDA Plant Hardiness Zone and select a tree that is likely to grow well under local conditions. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Choose a Location Aesthetics isn't the only thing to consider when selecting the best spot for a tree. To figure out where to plant it, start with the process of elimination. You'll need to consider the following: Underground utility lines: Make sure you research your state laws before digging and contact the proper agencies and utility companies to mark underground lines. Sunlight: Most trees need six to eight hours of full sunlight to grow well, so avoid any shaded areas in your yard. Mature size: You'll also want to consider the full size of the tree when it matures, so don't select a location that's too close to structures like your home or other mature trees. Prepare Your Starter Tree If you're relatively new to gardening, planting a starter tree rather than a seed can help give you better results. You'll get to bypass the initial growing stages where more things can go wrong. Before planting a bare-root starter tree, you'll need to soak its roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours to help them stay moist during the process. For potted starter trees, make sure to water the tree as soon as you get it home. Place it outside near its future dwelling place to allow it to acclimate to the conditions for a week. When you're ready to plant it, gently remove it from its container. Prepare the Hole Adjust the soil: Start by checking your soil's acidity and assessing its health. Most trees prefer loose, loamy, and well-draining soil with a neutral pH. However, you'll want to research your specific tree's needs and adjust the soil accordingly to make it more acidic or to raise the pH. Incorporating organic matter via compost can make the soil looser, more loamy, and better-draining, but it also raises the acidity. It's all about balance. Dig the hole: Dig a hole in your yard that's at least twice the width and about one inch deeper than the starter tree's root system. Set the excavated soil aside: Don't discard the extra soil you've removed from the tree. You'll need it in the next step. Transplant the Starter Tree To transplant your tree, place it upright in the prepped hole. Shovel the excavated soil back into the hole, tamping it gently as you go. Reposition the tree as needed during the process to ensure it stays upright. Add extra soil to the base of the tree in a mound shape, and create a moat around the perimeter for extra water to collect and keep the tree moist as it matures. Apply a thin layer of mulch, leaving a three-inch ring around the base of the tree to allow for air flow. How to Care for a Newly-Planted Tree While a young tree is establishing its root system, it needs some extra attention. Follow these care tips for the first two to three years after planting your tree. Water frequently:Water the tree daily for the first two weeks to prevent root shock, and slowly reduce the frequency after to every other day and then weekly. Once your tree becomes more established, you only need to water it every two to three weeks during dry periods. Keep it mulched: Keeping a young tree mulched will help its roots retain moisture better. Reapply the mulch on an annual basis. You can drop the frequency to once every two years when the tree matures. Stake it: Sometimes, a young tree's root system isn't established enough to support it. If you notice your transplanted tree bending, stake it to prevent it from snapping from the top weight or heavy winds. The Best Time to Plant a Tree You'll want to plant a starter tree into the ground when the weather is mild and when the plant is entering or just starting to end its dormancy period. For most regions, this is during fall or early spring. Both seasons have their pros and cons for planting a tree. Planting a Tree in Fall Planting a tree in the fall gives it ample time to establish its root system before the summer heat kicks in. Since the tree is on its way towards entering dormancy, it can channel its energy into root growth rather than leaf growth. However, you want to make sure you don't plant the tree too late in the fall, or you run the risk of below-freezing temps causing damage to the tree's root system. Planting a Tree in Spring Local nurseries often get a fresh supply of trees delivered in spring, so you should have a great selection to choose from. Just be sure to wait until after the ground has thawed from winter, but don't put it off too long. The warmer temps of early summer can cause the tree to go into shock.

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Home Decor

BIG Landscaping Update – Phase 2 Is Done And Our “Mistake” Is Finally Fixed!

Ican’t tell you how happy I was to fix our own HUGE mistake – 1/3 of the sports court is now gone in favor of a lot of greenery, flagstone, picnic tables, and trees. We hired Dennis’ 7 Dees to design and execute, and it went SO WELL. Started in February and done by late April (P.S. a great hack for speed is hiring them in the winter when they have more crews available, FYI). I couldn’t believe how fast and great they were, the yard transforming every single day. Brian and I were in awe. It turned out so beautiful and I feel extremely lucky and grateful. Weeks have gone by since we shot this, and it looks even more beautiful now, growing in so well. In case you are new here… we once had the world’s biggest run-down tennis court (see below) that stretched from the still-existing run-down tennis wall to the far edge of the split rail fence – MASSIVE. And after 4 years, it’s now the size that it should have always been. When we bought the property, the entire width of the backyard was a broken asphalt tennis court. What a crazy transformation… The thing is, when we first walked on the property, we loved it as-is. Truly. Sure, we knew we were going to transform it over time, but we had no idea what a beast it would end up being (a “where is the end of the string” panic for years). Once the construction around the house ruined most of the yard near the house, we enacted the landscaping phase one in 2021-2022, and it made such an incredible difference. But then we cut it short due to budget and renovation exhaustion. We knew we’d readdress it at some point (which apparently was this winter). This is what it looked like summer of 2023 – so pretty and usable and honestly wonderful. But the sports court was still too big, so as we planned for the outdoor grill area, we decided to pull the band-aid off and hire someone to make all the changes we wanted to this area. Let’s back up a bit, in 2020, we hired Cali from Studio Campo to design our backyard with a separate landscaping construction team to execute it. It was very wild-flowery, which we loved, and was a great year one impact (when we needed to shoot the Soake pool). During lockdown, she moved to Colorado with her new baby, and while she still takes jobs in Oregon for this phase, we wanted a design-build team to fully design and execute phase 2 (versus hiring a designer and hiring a separate contractor). We needed to streamline the work, with a design lead and one project manager who worked for the same company and knew each other (and had a shared vision). So we hired Dennis’ 7 Dees, which did such an incredible job (and fast), more on that below. The “sports court” (we never resurfaced it, so it was really just concrete) looked fine in that shot because it was brand new, but most of the year it looked like a dirty parking lot. It took a full 2 years for me to convince Brian that it was too big. The kids did love it, sure, but I also knew that they would love it if it were slightly smaller. The kids will be just fine, lol. We made sure we left it big enough to have a pickleball court with space around it to play and hang out. The winter view is farrrrrrrr less inspiring. We also learned the importance of evergreen plants, so we ended up having Dennis’ 7 Dees switch out a lot of the grasses and perennials for evergreen shrubs. 2025!!! We are SO incredibly happy with how it looks and how speedy the entire process was. Eric (designer at Dennis’ 7 Dees) did such a fantastic job selecting evergreens that still felt farmlike (we have some perennials, but we asked for 70% evergreen). You can’t have fast, cheap, and good, but we sure did get fast and good, so I’ll take it. While I really did like the idea of the perennial wildflowers along this fenceline, they looked so sad in the winter and out of control in the summer, so we kept the cherry trees and whatever that purple ground cover is, and Eric planted evergreens and some flowering perennials along this fence. Excited to see how it grows in. The flagstone looks so natural and like it’s always been there. We didn’t need more lawn, nor did we want unusable greenery in between the pool and pickleball area, so we asked for landing pads for picnic tables when we have large groups here (which is frequent). The picnic tables are great because the organic shape of flagstone that we love can be wobbly with dining chair legs, so these are so easy to set it and forget it (and it’s the vibe we wanted, too). It occurred to me the other day that what we’ve been calling our “mini farm” (3 acres) now has a “mini pool” (our Soake pool), a mini gym (literally 10×12), and now a “mini tennis court” (aka pickleball court). The fact that we didn’t opt to adopt mini donkeys or miniature goats is CRIMINAL. There is still time, Farmer Brian Henderson. The pickleball court finally got properly surfaced right after we shot the kitchen, and my goodness, it’s awesome to have. At the last minute (before the court was resurfaced) we found a team to throw up and screw in those cedar boards on our totally falling down tennis wall fence, flanking our green tennis wall. It helped a lot (and we gave them one coat of a gray stain to take down the orange and gray them out a bit). Of course after after we did that, we resurfaced the floor, and then the green wall looked so old and we realized it’s clearly falling down. Maybe we’ll tackle next summer – it’s fine enough for this summer, and I’m done thinking about this for a while (I much prefer lamps and pillows – this is Brian’s domain). We ended up needing to put in a French drain along the side of the pickleball court because the drainage was awful during a weekend of super harsh rain. You see, the concrete that was demo’d left really, really hard soil underneath that they prepped for planting, but the extreme rainwater couldn’t absorb into the dirt fast enough. To avoid ruining the court (which I don’t even know if that’s a thing) Dennis’ 7 Dees threw in a french drain along the court edge with river rocks on top (when I say “threw in” I mean everything costs thousands of dollars in landscape design but it sure happened quickly!). Eric, the designer, selected most of the plants, and we tweaked very few of them. They sourced most from Monrovia because they are high quality and grown locally, and Monrovia was able to give us slightly bigger plants at a discount, which was lovely and appreciated. Everything is so much more grown in now. We opted not to plant between the flagstone (for budget purposes). I have a few more posts I want to write about that will show how it’s growing in, what plants we used, what’s up with the clover field, and what the step-by-step process of this looked like for those who might want a similar huge revamp. I will say that while Dennis’ 7 Dees gave a discount for trade (photos, reels, etc.), I feel compelled to unnecessarily gush about them loudly because they were so awesome. They designed, executed, and we’ve hired them for maintenance. They were crazy fast, super experienced, and I felt generally so taken care of. And if you are in Lake Oswego, Vancouver, or Cedar Hills (not far from us), their retail nursery is awesome. One More Quick Before (2020) Not exactly the same angle (will get this summer) as Kaitlin has to stand on our roof (terrifying) and I’m not exactly going to micromanage her, but what a transformation! Human for scale (the pool can be confusing, lol). A big old thanks to Dennis’ 7 Dees for landscape design and construction, Monrovia for a lot of the plants, Big Trees Today for the larger trees (will show you more soon of those). Excited to dive in more this summer as things grow in more and talk about why we put in a clover field, why we don’t love mulch (never will), as well as lighting, drainage, the construction process, and plant selection. So the first reveal of phase 2 is done, folks. More to come (always) but loving it so very, very much. Feeling so grateful to live here, and when the family is out BBQing and playing pickleball with all our friends, it feels actually surreal that this is ours and I’m this much of an adult. Like real simulation type stuff :) Thanks for reading.

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