my best friend’s basement makeover – starting with the budget friendly mudroom reveal

Home Decor

My Best Friend’s Basement Makeover – Starting With The Budget-Friendly Mudroom Reveal

Drescription

As much as it pains me (and it does) I can’t design all my friend’s or family’s homes when they are looking to hire help. Sure, I’ve done some sponsored makeovers where the partner pays my and my team’s time but otherwise my lack of availability/bandwidth holds up the project immensely. Beyond that, contrary to the ‘hustle culture’ popular belief, one only has so much creativity in their brain, so the more projects we take on, the less good they are (I learned this the hard way). So I made a rule years ago that when friends/family need help and they have a budget, they could hire someone from my team or someone I trust to be in charge and take the lead, thus getting someone’s full attention and creativity, avoiding any friend resentment and still getting me to oversee it. I jump on calls when I can, approve major pieces, negotiate partnerships where appropriate and publish the reveals, but the project moves forward successfully regardless of my bandwidth. So, when my friends Robyn and Ryan were ready to embark on their basement remodel, I shouted fast – ‘OH YOU SHOULD HIRE PRISCILLA!’. Priscilla Frost assisted on the OG Portland project four years ago and impressed the hell out of us – she has the trifecta: design chops, amicability, and work ethic. She has that ‘on-top-of-it-ness’ that makes a project go smoothly. She started this makeover without me and I was brought in as a friend to help guide some decisions, as well as see when and where it made sense to bring in one of my partners. My friends are so happy, Priscilla killed it, the basement is DONE (and they are on to the primary bedroom as we speak!).

THE BASEMENT GOAL:

The goal was to totally reconfigure their basement. We would carve out a bedroom for their tween son, design a proper mudroom off the garage, move and remodel the previously carpeted bathroom, and furnish and style it all to be much more inviting, pulled together and grownup (like them). It was full of potential, but still a daunting task which is why they put it off til they just couldn’t any more (a ‘pandemic push’ they needed to take). It took a full year between demo and shoot (livable a few months before we shot it) and the project suffered from the usual supply chain issues and labor shortages. But Priscilla and JP Macy (the contractor) did an EXCELLENT job of absolutely transforming the basement, and thus this home.

They had the space, just needed it to work better for their family. Priscilla and JP worked together on the plans to make sure that they were doing the most efficient and affordable reconfiguration, move as few walls as possible, but make it make sense for the long run. Robyn and Ryan are in that typical position where they love their neighbors, school and community that they don’t want to move just to upgrade and have more space, but they have worked hard and were ready to enjoy their home more.

I’m pretty sure the “MUDroom” was coined in the PNW and this room is IMPORTANT if you are lucky enough to have one. Their mudroom was off the garage, below ground, where the boys exit and enter a few times a day. Sure, it’s in the basement with no natural light, and not where guests come in and out but y’all they really wanted it to look more welcoming. They needed to add function (shoe and coat storage), and to have it feel more inviting :)

Now while some of the rooms I was more involved with the design (the family room and the tween boys bedroom) this room is almost 100% Priscilla’s work (I gave advice throughout and styled the photos).

Priscilla created a few different design plans for them to see product options and design ideas.

After a lot of options and ideas, they went with the mid-budget idea that Priscilla pushed, that included a readymade piece painted and hacked to look more built-in. It was a great solution that didn’t cost as much as custom cabinetry (which is wildly expensive) but more sophisticated than any ordinary stand alone cabinet. Just a note: Priscilla did charge her time for this but it was less than a typical designer as this was one of her first clients and she was working towards portfolio work – i.e. sometimes the hourly you pay into someone else to do your DIY will add up substantially so it’s good to be upfront to avoid something costing $4k that you might have been able to do yourself :)

Are you ready? HERE WE GO.

It’s quite the transformation and has brought so much happiness every time anyone walks through that door. This is a proper mudroom. Priscilla created both open and closed storage, peg-rails for coats and bags, and really good durable products to make this space hyper practical and still so cute.

Please note the addition of the same vertical beadboard installed in the cabinet. It’s on on the same line as the peg rail on the perimeter of the mudroom and painted all to match so it looks built in and seamless.

The cabinet painted the same color as the walls, plus the custom peg rails and bead board throughout give it a super high end look. It looks SO GOOD.

I collected all the hanging baskets from vintage shops around town (a lot of them are for fishing) and seeing them here I HAD to leave them, but expect many more in our home. What we didn’t get to shoot (because it was literally pitch black) was behind those sliding cabinets Priscilla put in more shoe storage – a readymade rack for their backup shoes.

A few notes about the products Priscilla bought – that rug is printed and SO GOOD. It’s affordable, very durable and obviously forgiving when it comes to dirt. The boot tray was one that I had shopped for for a long time – we love how narrow it is which suits the space, but allows for a lot of shoes. Priscilla intentionally brought in these hits of black to keep the space feeling modern – the mirror and umbrella stand really edge up the space.

But what makes a truly practical, functional mudroom?? I am glad you asked..

It is mostly making sure all the things you like to come and go with have specific, easy to access places to store them. This is why we love hooks and peg rails, and why that readymade cabinet is such a good piece for this particular mudroom. And durability is always a plus in a hard-working mudroom :)

Last but certainly not least, we can’t wrap up without a super satisfying before and after:

Priscilla Frost, you are wonderful :) and JP Macy of Sierra Custom Construction I enjoy the heck out of your work :) Stay tuned for more reveals from this project, coming to you in the next few weeks.

Are Your Citrus Leaves Turning Yellow? 7 Reasons Why and How to Fix It Fast

Ensure that you are watering your plant according to its needs—not too much, and not too little. Check your plant regularly for signs of pests, fungus, or other topical maladies. Consider if your plant is getting everything it needs, including space and soil nutrients. Taking care of plants is rewarding, especially when it comes to fruit trees or other edible plants. But it quickly becomes a stressful endeavor when you spot a mystery problem, such as your citrus leaves turning yellow. Whether it's an orange, lime, grapefruit, or lemon tree's leaves turning yellow, we've rounded up some of the most common reasons why the foliage might be full-blown yellow or speckled with spots, as well as solutions, straight from experts. Meet the Expert Nastya Vasylchyshyna is the resident botany expert at Plantum, a plant identification and care app. Overwatering People who care deeply for plants can be so concerned with underwatering that they end up overwatering their tree. Soggy soil can lead to root rot for the likes of lemon and orange trees, leading to yellow leaves and other problems. "It’s best to repot the plant as soon as possible if you’ve accidentally overwatered it, or if you notice that the soil is very compact and dries out pretty slowly," says botany expert Nastya Vasylchyshyna. When doing so, replace old substrate with fresh, dry soil, and examine the plant's roots, cutting off any rotten parts with sterilized pruners. Then, treat the remaining roots with fungicide, Vasylchyshyna recommends, and your tree should be as good as new. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Underwatering On the other hand, a lack of water can also cause the leaves on your mandarin, lemon, orange, and lime trees to turn yellow and eventually dry out entirely. The good news? Vasylchyshyna says it's totally possible for your tree to bounce back. "If your citrus is lacking moisture, water it more frequently and generously, soaking the soil all the way down," she says. "You can trim any bare, leafless shoots to encourage new growth." It's easy to assume that watering requirements are the same across the Rutaceae family, but it's good to look at the specific variety you've planted, how old it is, and where it's located in your garden or home. Nutrient Deficiencies Nitrogen, magnesium, zinc, nitrogen, manganese, and iron deficiencies are common among citrus tree varieties. You can combat this with soil testing and a complex fertilizer that can counteract any low or high levels of nutrients in the soil where your tree is planted. "Make sure the plant food you choose has the right ratio of macronutrients—such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—and contains necessary micronutrients as well," says Vasylchyshyna. She recommends a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 2-1-1. You'll want to adjust this as the seasons change and your citrus tree flowers. Stick with the aforementioned ratio in spring and summer. "Once the citrus starts to flower, reduce the share of nitrogen in favor of potassium (an NPK ratio of 1-1-2 or 1-1-1)," she says. "During the fruiting season, keep the nitrogen levels low and increase the share of phosphorus and potassium; a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-2-2 works best at this time." Plant Diseases There are a handful of diseases that can inflict your citrus tree and lead to the yellowing of its leaves. Some are specific to certain varieties of citrus, whereas others you'll find wreaking havoc across various tree types. One of the main diseases citrus trees are susceptible to is chlorosis; this issue can arise through a few different factors—from pest infestations to overwatering to physical breakages. In many instances, you may want to prune a lemon tree or other citrus variety to stop the spread. Preventative Measures Opting for greening-tolerant tree varieties, fully understanding how to care for your specific type of citrus tree (including light, water, soil, and fertilization requirements), and being aware of any changes to the plants' conditions will best set your trees up for success. Pests Like any plant or tree, citrus fruits can attract a range of bugs to its branches. While some are undoubtedly essential and supportive (like pollinators), some cause trouble for your trees. One example in particular is spider mites. "These pests can be quite hard to spot, especially early on, as they hide on leaf undersides and in leaf axils," says Vasylchyshyna. "They pierce leaves and suck the sap from plant tissue, which causes the foliage to turn yellow." Give your trees thorough examinations, using a magnifying glass to spot any tiny critter infestations. Oftentimes, the best way to solve for these problems are through hosing down the tree and using an insecticide or acaricide. Fungus Fungi can cause problems for citrus trees and lead to the development of diseases, with common symptoms being yellow leaves. Fungicides are usually the most effective way of clearing out the fungus; oil is another helpful solution. Before taking action, visually determine the exact type of fungal problem your tree is having and the best fix depending on the kind of tree you have. The Pot A common, though unexpected, culprit of yellowing leaves is often the pot your tree is in. Trees growing in a planter as opposed to in the ground may feel restricted, leading to yellow leaves. "When choosing a pot, make sure it accommodates the root system, leaving just enough space for new growth," Vasylchyshyna says. "If your citrus gets root-bound, it can't properly absorb water and nutrients." If this happens, repot your plant as fast as possible into a container twice the size of the previous one. While doing so, loosen the roots of your plant to encourage healthy growth. Once this is done, be sure to give it plenty of attention and care so it can recover from the shock.

How to Grow and Care for an Avocado Tree Like a Pro

Avocado trees (Persea americana) are a great plant to grow if you live in the southern tip of the United States or father south. These plants are best grown outdoors as they can reach up to 60 feet in height. These evergreen fruit trees are best known for their delicious fruit, the avocado. Though the fruit may be the main draw for many growers, avocado trees are also quite beautiful because of their thick, bright green foliage and add ornamental value to any outdoor space. However, if it’s the fruit you’re after, these plants need warmth and space for the best results. Keep in mind that all parts of this tree, including the fruit, are toxic to a wide range of animals. How to Plant an Avocado Tree It is best to plant avocado trees outdoors in the spring, allowing ample time to become established before winter temperatures arrive. Plant your avocado tree in a location with plenty of sunlight and well-draining soil. If soil conditions are less than ideal, amend the soil with sand or another well-draining substrate before planting. The trees are vulnerable to high winds, so immature trees may benefit from support. Try choosing a planting location that offers wind protection to help keep your tree upright and healthy. All avocado trees should be planted at least 10 feet away from structures. The avocado tree's root system is sensitive, so try not to disturb the roots during planting. Dig a hole that is wider than the root structure and the same height as the root ball. Avocado Tree Care Light Like most tropical plants, the avocado tree thrives on a lot of sunshine. Plant this tree in a location where it can receive at least 8 hours of sunlight every day. These trees can tolerate partial shade, but grow best and produce more fruits when kept in full sun. Water Avocado trees benefit from infrequent, deep watering. Wait until the soil begins to dry out, then water deeply. During the summer months, the avocado tree will require more frequent watering. Young trees also require more frequent watering as they become established. Mature trees should receive around two inches of water per week. Soil Avocado trees prefer rich, loamy, and well-draining soil. A soil pH that is acidic to neutral, between 5 and 7, is ideal. These trees are sensitive to alkaline soil. Adding a layer of mulch around the tree can help the soil retain the right amount of moisture and will offer protection to the avocado tree's shallow root system. Don't mulch any closer than six inches from the trunk. Temperature and Humidity Outdoors avocado trees can only be grown in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11. They are frost-sensitive and grow best in temperatures between 50ºF and 85ºF. Though prolonged temperatures 30ºF or below will be too cold for avocado trees, they should be able to withstand an occasional, very brief freeze. You can grow an avocado tree indoors in any climate. Fertilizer You should fertilize an avocado tree starting in the late winter to early spring and feed until the fall, depending on the specific instructions included with your chosen fertilizer. Fertilizers specifically designed for avocado or citrus trees work best. Pollination For the best pollination, it is ideal to have two avocado trees, as flowers have male and female parts but they open at separate times, making self-pollination is unlikely. Avocado trees are considered either type A or type B, and each type opens its flowers parts at different times of day. These different times make cross-pollination between the two types possible. When choosing which trees to plant, be sure you have both type A and type B for best results. How to Grow Avocado Trees From Seed Starting an avocado tree from seed is a fun, simple project. However, it is important to keep in mind that seeds will not produce trees identical to the parent tree. To do this, you will need an avocado seed, a jar of water, toothpicks, a sharp knife, a small pot, and well-draining potting soil. Poke holes in avocado pit. Using a sharp knife, poke three or four holes around the circumference of the avocado pit. Poke toothpicks into pit. Poke the toothpicks into the holes, which will create the support needed to suspend the pit in water. Place thick end in water. Fill a jar with water (the jar should be narrow enouogh the toothpicks will hold most of the pit above water). Submerge the thick, or bottom end, of the seed into the water. Around one-third of the pit should be in the water. Place in sunny spot. Place the water jar with the pit in a sunny location and change the water daily. Wait for roots to form. After a few weeks, roots should form and leaves should appear at the top of the seed. Plant in soil. Once this occurs, gently plant the seed in well-draining soil. Types of Avocado Trees to Grow All avocado trees stem from three main varieties: Mexican, West Indian, and Guatemalan. Within these categories, there are several avocado varieties available. Hass: One of the most popular avocado varieties, the Hass avocado is often found in grocery stores. This is a type A tree that produces thick, bumpy-skinned, rich, and creamy fruits. It is more sensitive to heat than other varieties. Hass avocado trees are known to produce a reasonably sized yield when grown on their own. Fuerte: Also a widely known avocado type, the Fuerte avocado is a type B tree often grown with Hass avocados. These trees produce large, oval-shaped fruits with relatively smooth, thin skin. These trees are also more sensitive to heat, making them a good fit for the northern borders of the avocado's growing zones. Pinkerton: This type A, Guatemalan tree is popular for its smaller size and large fruit yield. It produces oblong fruits with flesh similar to the Hass avocado—rich and creamy. These trees require a type B avocado tree to produce a significant fruit yield. Harvesting Avocados On a healthy outdoor avocado tree, you could harvest upwards of 200 avocados per season. For nursery-bought trees, you can expect to see fruit in three to four years. For avocados started from seed, it may take five to 13 years before fruits appear. When fruits appear, wait until the avocado grows to its mature size. The fruits do not ripen on the tree, so avocados are picked as soon as they are full size. Bring the avocados indoors and let them rest on a counter until ripe. Harvesting Tip Don't pick all of your avocados at once. If you pick a few at a time, you will be able to extend your harvest and enjoy the fruits of your labor for longer. How to Grow Avocado Trees in Pots Avocados can be grown in pots outdoors, though it will stifle their growth. (They can also be grown indoors in pots.) This is ideal for small yards or gardens near the northern edge of the avocado’s growing zones, as potted trees can be moved to a protected area when cold weather arrives. Young trees or dwarf varieties are ideal for growing in pots as these will stay small for some time. Pruning If avocado trees are grown from seed, start pruning when the seedling is only six inches tall, snipping off the top pair of the leaves. When it reaches a foot in height, trim it back six inches. After this, prune the tree yearly. Mature trees require occasional pruning. Light pruning can be done any time of year, though heavy pruning should be done in the early spring. Prune thick areas to ensure adequate light and airflow. Cut back any dead wood and trim away V-shaped branches. Don't take off more than one-third of the length of each branch. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your avocado trees? We tested 8 top-rated pruners in our Lab to make sure your trees stay happy and healthy. Propagating Avocado Trees Propagation is often done through grafting, layering, or cuttings. Grafting is often done to combine the desirable qualities of two different varieties of avocados while layering and starting cuttings are done to produce duplicate trees. Here’s how to perform each method of propagation: Propagating an Avocado Tree From Cuttings You will need sharp snips, moist and well-draining potting soil, a small pot, and IBA rooting hormone. In the spring, select new growth that is five to six inches long and has several leaves that have not opened. Using sharp snips, cut the new growth branch at a 45-degree angle. Wound the cut end by scraping at the bark on either side of the cutting. This will encourage root production. Dip the cutting into IBA rooting hormone. Bury the cut end into moist, well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and place the cutting in a sunny area. After a couple of weeks, gently tug the cutting to check for resistance, which indicates root growth. Repot the cutting into a larger pot or outdoors. Grafting an Avocado Tree You will need sharp snips, a sharp knife, and something to cover the grafted area, such as grafting tape. Follow steps one and two as if you are taking a cutting. Remove the tip of the cutting, along with any leaves that are present. Then, wound the tree you would like to graft onto by removing a section of bark. Make sure the cambium of the cutting and the cambium of the tree are touching. Secure the cutting onto the tree with grafting tape, making sure to cover the exposed areas. In a few weeks, the grafted branch and the main tree should be fused together. Air Layering an Avocado Tree You will need a sharp knife, a rooting medium that can be wrapped around a branch, and rope or tape to secure the rooting medium around the tree. Select the branch you would like to take as a new tree. Using a clean knife, cut two circles around the branch to create a section of bark that can be peeled away. Once the bark is removed, scrape the inner branch to clean the cambium away. Wrap the exposed inner branch with rooting material, such as compost in a small bag (make sure the compost is wrapping the branch, not the bag) or another rooting medium. Secure around the branch with rope or tape. In several weeks, roots should develop. When this occurs, remove the bag, cut the branch off below the formed roots, and plant the new tree. Overwintering When grown in the appropriate zones, avocado trees do not require extra care during the winter unless the area experiences a frost. Protect the tree from a cold front by wrapping it loosely in burlap and adding extra soil at the base of its trunk until the frost has passed. For trees grown on the northern edges of their growing zones, it is best to keep them in pots so they can be moved to an area protected from cold weather. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Common pests that may bother an avocado tree include mites, caterpillars, borers, lace bugs, and thrips. Diseases include root rot, fruit rot, sun blotch, and cankers. Be alert to the presence of these pests or early signs of disease. Prompt action is the best way to remedy any developing problems before they threaten the health of your avocado tree.

Nordstrom Anniversary Sale Picks (And Some Favorite Non-Sale Pieces On My Body)

Itried to sneak into the Nordstroms Anniversary sale before I was allowed to try things on to show you, but it was a mad house and I didn’t have a card (and then ran into The Daily Tay – I HAD NO IDEA SHE LIVED IN THE PNW!!) and got distracted. So I looked for stuff on sale, but honestly, what I was into was the expensive stuff that was now just less expensive, so I didn’t buy anything on sale. Instead, opting for some pretty dang cute, and mostly affordable pieces. Here are a few if you want to see (and then I rounded up some of the sale items I really liked, too). Also, you are about to see a lot of scarves on my head, it’s a thing for me right now… This dress is a solid 9/10. It’s so comfortable, so drapey, so easy to wear – and for virtually every occasion (work, happy hour, grocery shopping, date night, even a walk and chat – just so easy). It has pockets and a loose waist that is still flattering because the sleeves are big. It’s a cute pattern, but not too loud. My only issue with it is that you need a bra that has straps that are pretty wide (or don’t mind showing off your bra strap – but maybe it’s a sign for me to get some new bras, good lord I go a LOOOONNNG time one the same three super supportive but not terribly beautiful bras). They didn’t have my size in stock, so I bought a size 6, but I think if I had sized down, it would have fit in an unflattering way because my boobs would have pulled up the waist, and it might have hugged or poofed in the wrong places. I think if you are smaller on top, then order your size, but for me, sizing up really worked here as it just drapes really nicely. It’s such an incredibly easy dress to wear, and I hope they make it in a lot of other subtle patterns. This is a “new to me” look that I know is trendy (and admittedly cute). A linen set that is pretty affordable (skirt is $55 and top is $75, sold separately). As you know, I’m stupidly self-conscious about my arms/shoulders, so you may have never seen me in a tank top, but this cut (where it comes really close to the armpits) felt more flattering than most, de-emphasizing the areas that I have dumb sensitivities to. Preppy and cute, fun to wear, and comes in black and white, too. I can’t tell if I really will wear this enough to warrant keeping it, but if I had a job where I needed to be in an office or meetings with clients, this is perfect in the summer. The linen is thick, but not wrinkly AT ALL, and the skirt is flattering on its own. I’m wearing a small in both. OBSESSED with these jellies. They are so flattering (elongates my feet and legs) and extremely comfortable (feels like I’m wearing nothing). SIZE UP – I’m a solid size 7 shoe, but wearing an 8 here and can’t imagine going any smaller. Ok, I was on the fence about keeping this (again, unsure I would wear enough to warrant adding it to my already full closet), but after seeing these photos, I’m pretty dang into the outfit. The top is super drapey and I felt flattering for how easy it is to wear, the shorts are tailored but still comfortable. I should have shown you the back because it is more open, which is my only issue. I asked my team what I was supposed to do here, and they said not to wear a bra and try those bra “cakes” instead. So now I want to do a roundup/review of bra “cakes” for larger ladies (and yet, how would we show them on the internet???). Again, the jellies are rad and I think the scarf and aviators are really working with the outfit, if I do say so myself (also trying to not damage my hair as much by styling it so thus the head scarves). This blouse is a solid 10/10 if you don’t mind showing a bit of bra in the middle of the ties. For $65, I think it has a lot of detail (think Doen, but 1/10th the price) and is extremely easy to wear, without being too “pirate-y,” i.e., too much fabric. The longer Bermuda shorts were all I saw in New York (can’t say they are the most flattering – I’m a short-short lady, but I’m embracing the trend and starting to love them, although I love my Gap ones just as much as they are almost 1/3 the price). I think the trend with the bigger Bermuda shorts you are supposed to wear a tiny top (crop, tank, or square neck) and either flip flops, ballet flats, or Hokas, FYI. I don’t know – I want to write a whole post about how fashion is wack right now (New York was extremely uninspiring, TBH. I don’t know what is happening, but I felt like a tourist by just wearing an outfit.) This looks boring, but these are two excellent staples. I was looking for a mid-weight cardigan to layer. Most are either too thin (won’t layer easily over my tops, which are admittedly voluminous) or too thick (too hot). This one is fantastic on its own, but has enough structure, weight, and room to layer on top. SIZE UP if you want to layer (I’m wearing a medium). The shorts are pull-on, drawstring, patterned, and perfect for all your daytime occasions (I think you could even pair them with a t-shirt and blazer for casual Friday office days since they read trouser shorts, not pajamas). I’m wearing a medium, FYI. A cute scarf-style shirt that has a great structure (not flowy, more A-line) with a nice waistline that doesn’t cut in but stays put. I’m wearing a small. Then shout out to Emerson Fry for sending me that cute shirt. I dressed the skirt down with that graphic T, denim around my waist, and classic nude Havianas (which are having a moment, again – flip flops are just everywhere right now). So that’s what I picked up in store and below are the pieces I really want from the actual sale:)

How to Pot a Germinated Date Seed the Right Way for Your Best Palm Ever

If you're a patient and adventurous gardener, why not grow a date palm (Phoenix canariensis) from seed? This slow-growing, evergreen palm is native to the Canary Islands and reaches 40 to 60 feet tall and 20 to 40 feet wide. If you're not in a tropical climate, it will be more compact if grown as a container plant that can summer outside on a patio and then be brought indoors when temperatures drop. Whether you are lucky enough to collect date palm seeds yourself or use seeds from ripe grocery store dates, we have all the information you need to germinate the seeds, pot them correctly, and grow a robust palm. Potting and Caring for Germinated Date Palm Seeds After your date palm seeds have germinated and begin to show tiny shoots above the potting soil, keep the soil evenly moist but not overly wet. Place the seedlings in a spot that receives bright sunlight for 6 to 8 hours per day. Wait until the seedling is at least three inches high with at least two sets of leaves before moving it to a larger pot. Pick a container. Select a container that is four to six inches in diameter with good drainage holes. Date palms prefer to be slightly rootbound for optimum growth so start with a small container after germination. Fill with soil. Fill the container about one-third full with nutrient-rich, loamy soil. Remove the germinated seed. Use a large spoon or garden trowel to gently lift the root ball of the germinated palm seed. Place the seed in soil. Place the palm in the container and fill it with soil tamping it down lightly to get rid of any air pockets. Water. Water the palm well until water drains from the bottom. Do not leave it sitting in a saucer of water. Move it to an ideal location. Place the palm in a brightly lit, warm spot (around 75°F) to recover from the shock of transplanting. The palm can be kept inside or outside depending on your hardiness zone and time of year. Always Start With a Container If you plan to plant the palm in your garden, it is still best to transplant germinated seeds into a container. Horticulturists recommend waiting until a date palm is around five feet tall before transplanting outside.1 Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Care for a Date Palm Give a container or garden-planted date palm six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Young palms should be watered at least weekly to keep the soil moist to encourage growth.2 Phoenix canariensis. North Carolina State University Extension Plant Toolbox. Once established, the palm will be more drought-tolerant. Potted palms will require more frequent watering, and drainage is important because standing water can cause root rot. When planting or potting, use a nutrient-rich, loose, loamy soil. Established date palms in the garden should be fertilized in early spring and again in mid-summer with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in potassium. Follow the label directions for the amount to use based on the size of the tree. Repot a date palm only when roots are visible through the drainage holes. Spring or early summer are the optimum times to repot because the temperatures are warmer and humidity is higher. Select a new container that is 2 inches wider and deeper. Gently remove the root ball from the container to prevent damaging the roots. Add fresh soil to the new container, place the palm, gently tamp down the soil, and water thoroughly. Date palms require little pruning except to remove dead or damaged fronds. Once the tree reaches maturity, suckers will grow from the base of the tree and should be removed. Once the tree begins to bear fruit, harvest the ripe dates so new clusters will have room to form. How to Germinate a Date Seed Separate the seed from the flesh of a ripe date. Place the seed in cool water and soak for at least 24 hours. Discard the seed if it floats to the top. Fill a small container with a seed-starting mix and moisten the soil. Press the seed into the soil until it is barely covered with soil. Place the container in a warm spot with bright light. Keep the soil moist by placing a glass jar or plastic bag over the container until germination occurs. The seed should germinate in about one month, at which point they should be potted.