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Travel

How to Pack for Multiple Climates and Transitional Weather

Traveling to places with variable weather can make packing an even bigger challenge. Whether you're traveling in between seasons or visiting multiple climates in one vacation, packing for these trips requires a bit more planning. It's impossible to bring something for every season—at least not without bringing massive amounts of luggage—but there are tricks to efficiently craft an adaptive wardrobe that will prepare you for a range of weather conditions. Start by checking the weather forecast and packing a travel-sized umbrella. Then, try these expert tips for packing a versatile travel wardrobe that will help you enjoy your trip—no matter the weather. Priyanka Swamy is the founder of Perfect Locks LLC. Maye Srouji is the CEO of Milles Collines, a clothing company based in Cape Town, South Africa. Pack Lots of Layers “Packing for transitional weather is all about versatility,” says Priyanka Swamy, the founder of Perfect Locks LLC. Packing layer-able clothing offers versatility for long day trips if the temperature changes. Swamy says these are pieces that can be added or removed easily. "Lightweight sweaters, cardigans, and scarves can be worn with warm and cool outfits," she adds. Plus, layer-able clothing also means maximizing the number of outfits you can wear during the trip without sacrificing comfort. This is especially true if you have limited weight or space in your luggage. “Whether it’s a weekend getaway, a day out in nature or a trip…I keep layering in mind, along with comfort,” says Maye Srouji, CEO of Milles Collines, a clothing company based in Cape Town, South Africa. Layering also helps if weather changes cause a change of plans. (For example, your outdoor hiking day may turn into a day of indoor museum exploring if there's a downpour.) Srouji recommends packing the following: a light summer dress light skirt a few basic tops a cozy button-down sweater a few pairs of your favorite jeans or pants a loose linen or cotton shirt that layers well If you're traveling in cooler climates or cooler weather, you'll want to add a wind-breaking jacket, ideally as thin as possible while still providing warmth. Include Rain Gear Srouji adds that living on the coast has taught her to never leave the house without a jacket. Many seaside cities experience similarly unpredictable weather. There’s always a chance of rain—even if the forecast predicts clear skies and sunshine. So, if you're traveling to a beach destination, be sure to bring a waterproof jacket or a foldable trench, just in case. “Remember to pack a small umbrella or raincoat in case of an unexpected downpour,” says Swamy. Travel-sized umbrellas can be tucked into a carry-on, but some are no match for the combo of wind and water. Whether in Prague or Peru, the ultimate hack is to carry a disposable rain poncho that can easily fit in your purse or fanny pack. Pack Versatile Footwear Instead of bringing one pair of shoes for each possible weather condition, bring adaptable shoes that work for different ground conditions and across multiple outfits. “Pack versatile footwear such as ankle boots or sneakers that can handle rain and shine,” says Swamy. If done right, you only need to pack three types of shoes that can handle different weather and can work for different excursions. Srouji recommends packing a pair of sneakers that can be paired with dresses and pants, a pair of simple sandals, and evening shoes in case of a special, formal occasion. Don’t forget about comfort when you're picking out shoes, especially if you’re planning on walking or hiking. Research how hilly or grassy your destination is, and whether the sidewalks are made of cobblestone or cement. Knowing these little details can help you choose between wedges and stilettos, platforms and pumps. It’s safe to say that rubber soles are always a good idea. Aim for walkable, comfortable, and stylish shoes, no matter the destination. Always Have a Scarf If there’s one unique accessory Srouji recommends travelers pack, it’s a scarf. Scarves are too versatile to leave behind. They can protect your hair from sudden rain, your neck from a draft, and your arms and shoulders from an unexpected chill. If travelling with children, scarves can also become multi-functional tools to help with feeding, changing, and sleeping. (And they're essential to wear on planes, where the temperatures can shift. Use scarves to enhance different outfits, adding a chic touch on top of function. Because they are lightweight and easy to pack, you can bring a few different styles in different materials. A silky square can be tied to your purse, used to cover your hair, or wrapped around your neck in a pinch. A waterproof fleece, cashmere, or wool scarf, on the other hand, is a bit bulkier, but can still be easily folded into the front pocket of any carry-on or large purse. Pay Attention to Fabric Fabrics can make or break any outfit, but this is especially true when on an excursion with flip-floppy weather. “Choose breathable and insulating fabrics, like cotton and merino wool,” says Swamy. Linen and bamboo are also excellent materials for extreme heat. Mix and match combinations to maximize preparedness for unpredictable weather. If there's even the slightest chance of rain, be careful with wearing leather, suede, velvet, and silk. Heavy denim can also be a drag in rain and peak heat. Synthetic fabrics tend to make you sweat more, so beware of polyester, a popular water-resistant fabric. Remember to choose colors wisely, too. Dark colored fabrics attract and trap heat, which may be a boon in cooler climates, but not so great in summer or tropical heat. Also be sure to avoid any fabrics or colors that will become see-through when wet—whether from rain showers, snow, or perspiration. Wear Bulky Layers on the Plane If you want to bring a warmer coat, a bulky sweater, or need a pair of hiking boots for your trip, consider wearing them on the plane instead of packing them. That'll help you reserve space in your luggage for your other items. (Just keep in mind that the boots will require a bit of work to get on and off when you pass through airport security.)

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Gardening

Want Better Lilies Next Year? Gardeners Say You Should Never Skip This Important Task

Lilies are one of the stars of any flower lover's midsummer garden. But what should you do once those blooms begin to fade? Like many popular garden flowers, lilies benefit from deadheading—but maybe not for the reason you think. Here's why you should make a point to deadhead your lilies this growing season. Should You Deadhead Lilies? Lilies benefit from deadheading for a couple of different reasons. In addition to tidying up the appearance of your garden after its blooms have faded, snipping away the spent flower heads is important for next year's growth. Leaving the flowers on the plant will allow them to go to seed if the flowers have been pollinated. Instead of storing up energy in their bulbs for next year's flowers, your lily plants will expend that energy producing seeds. Removing the flowering portions of each stem once they fade means you'll have stronger, more vibrant flowers next year than if you let the plants go to seed.1 Note that, unlike flowers such as marigolds and zinnias, deadheading true lilies, including Asiatic lilies and Easter lilies, won't encourage the plants to rebloom this year. How to Deadhead Lilies Look for lily stems with flowers that have faded or are beginning to fade, discolor, or drop off. Keep an eye out for flowers in which the petals and stamens have fallen away completely. Only the stigma, the structure in the center of the flower that collects pollen to send down to the ovary in the base of the flower to form seeds, may remain. If your lily flowers have already bloomed, you may also see only long green seed pods where the flowers once were. You can deadhead a single lily flower out of many on a stem or, once all blooms have faded, cut back the entire flowering portion of that stem. To remove a single flower, use clean, sharp scissors or pruners to cut the flower stem where it meets the main stem. Sanitize Your Tools If possible, sanitize your tools between cuts to avoid spreading disease. While it's possible to simply snap off the spent flowers with your hands rather than using snips, leaving ragged, uneven stem ends behind may help introduce disease to your lily plants. If all flowers on the stem have faded and begun going to seed, you can make your cut at the bottom of the flowering portion of the main stem—below the lowest flower stem but above any leaves. Once your lily flowers begin to fade, check them every few days to deadhead individual blooms as needed. You can also choose to wait until all flowers on a single stem are spent and remove the flowering portion of the spike all at once. Tip Deadheading, or cutting away faded or dead flowers, is an important garden task for many plants. Depending on the type of flower, deadheading can help plants preserve energy for next year or promote reblooming the same season. Either way, deadheading keeps your flower garden looking neat and tidy. What to Do With Deadheaded Blooms As long as they don't show signs of pests or disease, lilies can be added to your compost pile. They can also be thrown in the trash. If your lilies do become diseased or infested, it's best to tie them up in a plastic bag before tossing them to prevent any spread. You may also decide to skip deadheading altogether and leave the seed pods on the plant, though it may not grow as vigorously the next year. In fact, some types of lilies are known for their visually striking seed pods, which can add interest to the garden in the off-season if they're left on the plant. For example, blackberry lilies get their name from the distinctive shiny black seeds left behind after the flowers bloom.

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Gardening

How to Start a Successful Herb Garden and Grow All of Your Favorite Flavors

Pick a space for your herb garden that can provide the proper light, soil nutrients, and humidity your herbs need. Pick and place herbs according to their needs—some plants need less water than others. After harvesting herbs they can either be frozen or dried in order to keep them viable for longer. Herb gardens are the perfect introduction to gardening and supply your senses and pantry with fresh flavors and scents. Whether you plan to grow herbs in containers or a small plot, here are the things you need to know to start a successful herb garden. Pick a Space for Your Herb Garden Herb gardens are so popular because they are easy to start and maintain; they grow quickly and you can begin harvesting within a few weeks. The size of your herb garden is up to you and depends on the quantity and variety of herbs you want to grow. Light Almost all herbs require at least 6 hours of full sun daily. A few such as chervil, mint, chives, and cilantro can be grown in an area with light shade. Soil Herbs need well-draining soil. They will no thrive in heavy, wet soil. Adding compost to clay soil will help improve the structure and drainage. The soil does not have to be highly fertile; too many nutrients tends to produce excessive amounts of poorly-flavored foliage. Temperature and Humidity Mediterranean herbs like basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender like warm, sunny, dry conditions. Most perennial and biennial herbs can overwinter if they are protected with layers of mulch. Established herbs can tolerate dry conditions but supplemental water is recommended during periods of drought. Use mulch to conserve soil moisture, but keep it away from the base of the plants to prevent stem rot. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Pick Which Herbs You Want to Grow Most people plant the herbs they enjoy using for cooking, making teas, or drying for potpourri. Some make selections based on fragrance or bloom color. The beauty of an herb garden is that it is personal to your preferences. It is a good idea to group your chosen herbs by their watering needs to prevent over-watering those that prefer drier conditions. Drought-Tolerant Herbs Borage: Once established, allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Fennel: Drought-tolerant once established; allow the soil to dry between waterings. Lavender: Lavender will not survive wet roots and heavy soil. Marjoram: Drought-tolerant and prefers dry soil with occasional watering. Oregano: Thrives in dry and warm climates with low rainfall levels. Sage: A drought-tolerant plant that prefers soil to dry out between waterings. Rosemary: Prefers slightly drier conditions and minimal watering. Thyme: Water only when the soil is completely dry. Winter savory: Once established, prefers dry soil. Herbs with Moderate Watering Needs Basil: A broadleaf herb, it requires more water than herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage. Bay laurel: For healthy leaves, keep the soil evenly moist. Catnip: A member of the mint family, catnip requires consistent moisture to flourish. Chervil: Prefers evenly moist soil with good drainage. Chives: Although drought-tolerant, chives must be watered evenly throughout the growing season for high yields. Cilantro: The soil should be kept evenly moist for tender leaves. Dill: Requires consistent moisture levels to flower and produce seeds. Lemon balm: Prefers soil that is moist but never wet. Lemon verbena: Requires regular watering. Mint: Thrives around water and can tolerate wet roots. Parsley: Evenly moist soil produces the most tender leaves of flat or curly parsley. Tarragon: Young plants need regular watering to become established. Propagating Herbs There are many ways to propagate herbs, and doing so can keep your herb garden fresh and perpetually growing for years. By Seed Nearly all herbs grow well from seed that you've saved or purchased. Fine herbs like anise, cilantro, dill, and fennel should be directly sown into the garden once the danger of frost has passed because they do not transplant well. Basil, parsley, sage, and thyme can be started indoors and transplanted into the garden when temperatures warm. After planting seeds in well-tilled soil with good drainage, water lightly until they germinate. From Cuttings To quickly establish new plants, herbs can be propagated from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing; select a 3 to 4-inch stem that is healthy and tender. Strip the leaves off the bottom two inches and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Place the stem in a small pot of moistened potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and place it in an area with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist and remove the plastic bag when new leaves begin to grow. Transplant the cutting into the garden once the plant has at least 3 or 4 sets of new leaves. By Division Herbs that have a clumping habit like tarragon, chives, and mint can be divided to create new plants. Use a garden trowel to gently dig up the clump of herbs. Use a clean, sterile knife to separate individual plants and replant or share them with others. Harvesting Herbs Once an herb plant has enough foliage to maintain growth, fresh leaves can be harvested. It's best to harvest herbs before they flower or go to seed because leaf production declines. Snip stems at a leaf node with sharp, sterile clippers. For the best flavor, pick leaves or seeds after the morning dew has evaporated but before temperatures are high. Before using, discard any bruised or soiled leaves and inspect the herbs for insects or foreign matter. Rinse the herbs under running water and shake gently to remove excess moisture. How to Preserve Herbs The two best methods for preserving herbs are freezing and drying. Depending on the herbs you're drying, one method might suit your needs better than the other. By Freezing Tender herbs like basil, chives, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, mint, parsley, and tarragon freeze well in small batches. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat the herbs dry. Place the herbs in a freezer bag, seal the bag, and place it in the freezer. To freeze in pre-measured portions, chop the herbs finely and place them in an ice cube tray. Add a small amount of water and allow the tray to freeze. When solid, pop out the cubes and store them in plastic bags. By Drying Rosemary, sage, thyme, and winter savory are the easiest herbs to dry and will retain the most flavor and color. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat them dry with a paper towel. Form small bunches and tie them with cotton string. Hang the bunches upside down in a warm, well-ventilated place until the moisture evaporates. Avoid hang in direct sunlight that can strip flavor and color. The herbs are dry when the leaves crumble and the stems break when bent. Store dried herbs whole, crumbled, or ground in a cool, dark spot in a labeled airtight container for up to six months for the best flavor.

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Gardening

Now Is the Best Time to Fertilize Fruit Trees for Huge Harvests—How to Do It Like a Pro

Even in northern climates, homeowners can grow some of the most popular fruit trees in their own backyards, including pear, peach, plum, cherry, and apple trees. But for success in growing fruit trees, you will need to plan carefully and maintain them properly. Good planning will take into consideration the mature height of the tree so that it does not interfere with buildings, power lines, etc. Ensuring full sun and good drainage are two other aspects of sound site election. Once you have planted your fruit tree, supplying it with sufficient irrigation and fertilizer are two of the more important maintenance tasks. In this article, you will learn why, when, and how to fertilize fruit trees. Why Fertilize Fruit Trees? There are three reasons to fertilize fruit trees: For superior quantity in fruit production For superior quality in fruit production For the overall growth and health of the tree Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Is It Absolutely Necessary to Fertilize Fruit Trees? No, there are exceptions. If you are growing a fruit tree in soil that is already extremely fertile (have it tested to learn if it is lacking any nutrients), you may not have to fertilize until that fertility is depleted. When to Fertilize Your Fruit Tree Getting the timing right is very important when fertilizing fruit trees: The best time to fertilize fruit trees is in spring. Wait until about a week before the last frost date for your region. Fertilizing before that may result in a spurt of growth that will only be damaged by the frost. If you forget to fertilize in spring, the second best time to fertilize is in early summer. The worst time that you can fertilize fruit trees is in late summer or early fall. Fertilizing at this time would only promote new growth that will be killed when cold temperatures return. Do not fertilize a fruit tree at the same time as you are planting it. Wait till 3 weeks after planting , then you can lightly fertilize it with a chemical fertilizer. If you want to be ultra-careful, fertilize it with compost, instead.1 If your apple tree or pear tree is mature enough that it is bearing fruit, apply boron to it every three years.2 Have Your Soil Tested To have a soil test performed, you must obtain a small sample of the soil from around the base of your fruit tree. While you can perform the test at home, beginners may prefer to send the sample to their local county extension for a test. The pH level for fruit trees should be between 6 and 6.5. How to Fertilize Your Fruit Tree Don't think that effectively fertilizing a fruit tree is as easy as opening up a bag of fertilizer and pouring some out. Set aside a bit of time so that you can do the job right: Remove grass and weeds from around the tree: If you have any weeds (or grass) growing around your fruit tree, remove them. They will steal some of the fertilizer you will be putting down from your fruit tree. Clear away mulch: If you currently have any mulch around your tree, rake it away to expose the soil surface. For your safety: Wear gloves and goggles. Some fertilizers can irritate the skin or eyes. Obtain the fertilizer: Fertilizers with an NPK of 10-10-10 are widely used for fertilizing fruit trees. Granulated types are easier to work with than others. You don't need to use chemical fertilizers: Organic fertilizers are perfectly acceptable, as long as you are having your soil tested regularly to ensure that it has the nutrients your fruit trees need. Determine how much to apply: Measure the diameter of the fruit tree's trunk. This figure will be used to calculate how much fertilizer to use. Apply 1 pound of fertilizer for every inch of diameter. Common sense comes into play, too: The tree's performance will let you know if you are not using enough. Err on the side of too little. Using too much fertilizer may result in excessive vegetation, which causes the center of the tree to be shaded. The result can be disease (from too little air circulation) and reduced fruit production. Apply the fertilizer: One reason granulated fertilizers are easier to work with is you do not have to mix them with water to apply them. Broadcast the granulated 10-10-10 fertilizer evenly, starting 1 to 2 feet away from the trunk and ending where the tips of the branches extend to (the "drip line"). Rake the fertilizer: Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil. Mulch your fruit tree: Put back the mulch (if any) that you had raked away from the tree. Add new garden mulch to this. Aim to create a 3-inch layer of mulch in all. Keep the mulch 6 inches to a foot away from the base of the tree, depending on the size of the tree. Mulch will not only suppress weeds but also conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. Water: Water the area so that the fertilizer will sink into the ground.

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