how to grow and care for dragon tree (dracaena marginata) indoors

Gardening

How to Grow and Care for Dragon Tree (Dracaena Marginata) Indoors

Drescription

Dragon tree (Dracaena marginata), is a tall plant with green, sword-like, red-edged leaves. Native to Madagascar, the eye-catching spiky tree is a great entry plant for household gardeners wanting an indoor tree—it's easy to care for, drought-tolerant, and nearly indestructible.

This slow-growing tree can take a decade to reach a few feet tall but can eventually grow to about 20 feet. However, it is generally grown as a potted houseplant and kept pruned to 6 feet or less.

Keep the dragon tree away from pets because it's toxic to animals if ingested.1

Dragon Tree Tips for Beginners

Where to Put It: Place your dragon tree in a spot that receives bright to medium indirect sunlight.

How to Water It: Dragon trees are drought-tolerant plants, so give it a good watering once every three weeks.

Soil Type: Use a loose, well-drained potting mix when growing dragon trees, as they'll thrive best in this mixture.

Dragon Tree Care

Dragon trees are very popular as large potted plants for homes and offices. Here are the most important care requirements.

Plant in well-draining soil

Water regularly during their growing season.

Place in bright, indirect light, though they can thrive in a variety of light conditions.

Fertilize conservatively at the beginning of spring.

Light

Place your dragon tree in an area with bright, indirect light. These plants can also survive in partial shade. Keep in mind that plants kept in lower light situations will grow slower and produce smaller leaves with less intense color.

Additionally, take care not to place your dragon tree in a spot that receives direct rays of sunlight—its foliage can burn easily.2

Soil

Use a loose, well-drained potting mix when growing a dragon tree as a potted plant—loamy soil amended with peat moss is ideal. Make sure the container you choose has room for the plant's extensive root system.

Some varieties are imported from Hawaii and will arrive with lava rock—if this is the case, remove about a third of the rock and replace it with potting soil.

Water

Wait until the top half of the soil is dry before watering a dragon tree, which could take three weeks or more. Like many drought-tolerant plants, the dragon tree can be easily overwatered.

Temperature and Humidity

Keep your dragon tree in their preferred warmer temperatures of between 70°F and 80°F. Regular household humidity should be fine for them, but if your house is particularly dry, you can consider misting the plant lightly from a spray bottle every few days.

Fertilizer

Feed a dragon tree lightly at the beginning of spring with a balanced controlled-release liquid fertilizer. Although they have a relatively low need for fertilizer and it is not an essential component to having a thriving plant, it can support new growth.

Types of Dragon Tree

Although there are several varieties of dragon tree, the most commonly found at plant stores (and used as household plants) include:

Dracaena marginata 'Tricolor': This varietal has dark red margins, green leaves, and an ivory stripe down the leaf center.

D. marginata 'Colorama': This dragon tree may appear to be completely pink, but it's actually variegated with white and green stripes. It will need very bright light to keep its unique colors.

D. marginata 'Bicolor': True to its name, this dragon tree varietal has red and green stripes.

Tips for Buying In-Store

Check for pests. Look underneath leaves and along the stem to make sure no critters follow you home.

Avoid plants with brown spots on leaves.

Read the plant label. Make sure that this plant works for you, your lifestyle, and your space.

Pruning

It's perfectly normal for a dragon tree to self-shed dead leaves—just pick them up and discard them.

To keep the plant trimmed and neat, remove leaves that look like they are about to fall off or cut back stems with sterile, sharp pruning shears to tidy up the tree.

Sterilize your pruning tool with a clean rag doused in a common household item, such as rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide, then rinse with water, and wipe the tool dry before using it on your plant.

Pruning Tip

No pruners? No problem! We've tested over 10 top-rated pruners to help you choose the right one for your comfort and personal needs—there's an option for everyone.

Propagating Dragon Tree

You can propagate your dragon tree using stem cuttings rooted in water. It's so easily done that the varietal is often used in dish gardens and readily propagated by nurseries and retailers.

It's best to do this in the spring when the plant is growing vigorously. It takes just about three weeks for the cuttings to sprout roots, and using a rooting hormone isn’t necessary.

Using a sterile, sharp scissor, cut a long length of stem that's about 8 inches.

Remove any low-hanging leaves.

Put the cutting in moistened potting soil.

Place the cutting in bright, but indirect sunlight.

Once new leaves have sprouted, you'll know the plant has grown some new roots, and you can care for the plant as usual.

Potting and Repotting Dragon Tree

Make sure to check your dragon tree at least once a year to see if it should be repotted into a bigger pot. Check the bottom of the container for roots coming through the drainage holes, which is a sign that the tree is root-bound and in need of a larger container.

Choose a new pot with a diameter about 2 inches larger than its current container. Make sure that it has one or more drainage holes.

Because these trees grow so slowly, they generally require repotting only every second—or even third—year. In the meantime, you can refresh the potting soil annually to replace any of the mixture that has become compacted.

Planters for Dragon Tree Plants

When checking your dragon tree plant annually, you'll likely have to size up a planter for repotting. Here are our favorite indoor planters to pick from. To prevent overwatering, you can also go with one of these self-watering planters.

Common Pests

Although they are fairly disease-resistant, dragon trees are susceptible to scale insects, mealybugs, and thrips.3 Mealybugs are easy to identify as they leave small, sticky, cottony deposits on the leaves of the tree.

Dragon tree plants are also at risk of acquiring the common plant pest, spider mites.4 They tend to occur when temperatures are warm and the air is very dry; however, mites are very difficult to see until they have already damaged the plant.

Pests to Watch

If you spot any of these pests on your dragon tree, fight back with neem oil, insecticidal soap, or horticultural oil. Mix them with the recommended amount of water and spray on the leaves, stems, and soil.

Common Problems with Dragon Tree

While dragon trees are fairly easy to maintain, there are a few things to watch for.

Leaves Falling Off

Overwatering can cause the leaves of dragon trees to become yellow and fall off. These trees are sensitive to excessive moisture in their roots. To avoid this, check the soil regularly. If the top 2 inches of soil feel too wet, it's a sign that you may have gone too far with watering.

Drooping Leaves

If you notice the leaves of your dragon tree drooping, it could be a sign that the plant is thirsty. You should avoid waiting for the plant to dry out completely before watering it. If the lower leaves are drooping significantly more than the rest of the plant, it could be a symptom of root rot. To avoid any problems, also ensure that you are not over-watering the plant.

Brown Leaves or Leaf Tips

If the soil is too moist or too dry, dragon tree leaves may start to brown. Make sure you're striking the right balance when irrigating. Additionally, lack of humidity can lead to browning tips and eventual leaf loss. Improve humidity by placing the plant on a dish filled with pebbles and water or use a humidifier.

If the plant develops brown tips on its leaves, that's usually a sign the water you're using has too much salt or fluoride, which can cause discoloration. Water your dragon tree with distilled or non-fluoridated water to avoid fluoride buildup.

Crispy Leaves

If you notice that the foliage on your dragon tree is crunchy, it could be a sign that the plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. When exposed to bright light, the leaves can curl and become crispy. Keep the plant in indirect sunlight or partial shade for best results.

Yellowing Leaves

In some instances, you may notice the leaves of your dragon tree turning yellow, which could be the result of too much direct sun. The leaves can scorch, become discolored, and start to droop.2 Move the plant to a spot receiving more indirect or filtered sun before excess light causes permanent damage. Yellowing leaves could also be a sign the plant needs more or less water. Make sure you strike the right balance.

Your Suitcase Is Dirtier Than a Toilet Seat—Here's What to Do About It

While you may already know that putting your suitcase on your hotel bed is a no-no due to the potential to pick up bedbugs, there's another good reason to reconsider where you put your luggage. According to some recent research by Insure and Go, your suitcase may have picked up lots of other unwelcome travelers along the way, including dangerous bacteria and black mold. (Ew!) And that's definitely a problem for a lot of us, as 38% of people regularly put their suitcase on a bed or table to pack or unpack. What's Lurking on Your Suitcase? For the study, 10 hard-shell and soft-shell suitcases were swabbed at a London airport train station, using different swabs on different points of the suitcase. Their findings? The suitcase wheels contained nearly 58 times more bacteria than a public toilet seat, including E. coli and staphylococcus bacteria and black mold. "The testing confirmed that suitcase wheels are by far the dirtiest part of a traveler’s bag," says microbiologist Amy-May Pointer, who conducted the study. "The wheels of your suitcase are essentially rolling through a world of germs and carrying a whole ecosystem with them, and make constant contact with all kinds of surfaces—pavements, streets, airport bathroom floors, train station platforms, and rarely (if ever) get cleaned.” Also among the germiest spots? The base of your suitcase—which also carries significantly more bacteria than a public toilet seat—and the handles of airport luggage carts, which are rarely cleaned and touched by many people. In the study, soft-sided suitcases were more likely than hard-shelled suitcases to carry bacteria, fungi, and other microbes. This probably should come as no surprise—after all, when's the last time you wiped down your suitcase? Roller bags roll all over the ground, from your house through the streets and even the airport bathroom—and then they're jammed in next to other people's suitcases, too, whether they're in the overhead compartment or the checked luggage. How to Reduce the Germiness of Your Suitcases To help minimize the ick on your suitcases, Pointer recommends a few strategies you can use: Watch where you roll your bag You may want to lift your suitcase when you're in especially germy or wet locations—and Pointer recommends avoiding bringing them into airport bathrooms altogether to minimize E. coli and other common bathroom bacteria. Give your suitcase a proper clean When you've arrived at your destination—or at home—give your suitcase exterior a quick wipe-down with antibacterial wipes, a soapy cloth, or even a disinfectant spray, focusing your efforts on your wheels and the bottom of your suitcase. A regular deep clean of your suitcase will help you reduce the amount of dangerous microbes they carry. Use the luggage rack The hotel luggage rack is the perfect spot to keep your luggage and avoid contaminating other surfaces (especially your bed or table!). Wash your hands after you handle your suitcase Give your hands a good scrub down with soap and water—or even hand sanitizer—after you handle it to avoid spreading that bacteria elsewhere. (You don't want to add a little E. coli to your airport snack!) That'll help you avoid getting sick, which can be a real bummer when you're on vacation!

Our 2025 Summer Landscaping Reveal (With Full Process)

I’m currently caught in the “why would anyone live anywhere else” fever dream that is “Oregon in The Summer”, and while I intellectually know there is no perfect place to live, right now, up here, it’s magical (and has been since March – 2025 was a real pretty one). This backyard is certainly serving up some particularly beautiful vibes, and we are in full hosting season. Today I wanted to do a full documentation of the backyard landscaping process, and get into the details for all of us landscape design nerds. Like most things in design – it looks a lot easier than it is, and the more expertise and experience involved, the better product you get. As you know, for this project we hired Dennis’ 7 Dees, a local (and booming) family landscaping company that now manages all our landscaping maintenance as well (besides Charlie mowing the lawn…when we are in town). They designed, planned, executed, and now care for our yard with total seamlessness – not once did I feel like I didn’t know what was happening, when, or that they were too busy with other jobs to take care of us. (Read til the end for some hot tips on working with design professionals.) January – OOF IT WAS SAD Of course, there are more “before befores” from 2019 (when we bought the property) and 2021 (aka the year of the mud before phase 1 began). But this was in January 2025, which is always a sad time of year (and before we had proper maintenance because we thought we could handle it, so the leaves were clearly a problem). As you know, the sports court was way too big – I even mentioned this in the reveal 2 summers ago. And then the area underneath the cherry trees was fine in the summer, but just not working as well as we wanted (that’s the area between the flagstone path and the sports court). So this was the main area we were working to make better, along with the outdoor grill area (which was done by my brother’s company). The Overall Landscaping Plan We worked with Eric Hagberg from Dennis’ 7 Dees, whom we loved – he had so much experience, expertise, and was so flexible – listening to us, and editing as things came up. He came up with the first plan and accompanied budget, and presented it to us (I believe this was in November). Landscaping Plan Number #1 We really loved it, but needed to scale it back for budget purposes. So we reduced the amount of trees, plants, stonework, and lighting (all the pink), and totally nixed the back area near the paddock, seeding for clover instead. One thing we were more sensitive to this time around was planting enough evergreen plants, not just perennials. I love echinacea and all these gorgeous wildflowers, but winter can be really sad here (sadder than my former California lady brain knew), so this time we asked for 70% evergreen plants, 30% perennials. Plan #2 – Reduced Plants, Lighting And Square Footage He sent through the edited plan, which reduced the scope by almost in 1/2. Sure, we still had demo, prep soil, irrigate, run lighting lines, but the scope of planting, stonework, irrigation, and lighting helped reduce the cost substantially. I mean, it’s obvious, but the less you do, the less it costs. The Plant Palette Here was the palette they had planned, which I was in love with and all came from their garden centers (which have an incredibly robust selection). While in the past I have been picky with plants, needing to love each one and feel like stylistically it was “me,” this time around I shifted my mentality. My goal was to have a cohesive color palette, sure, (no random pops that didn’t make sense), but otherwise all I wanted was for the experts to choose things that really thrived easily here, in Oregon, under our conditions. I didn’t want to make suggestions that would override the expertise. For instance, I never thought that I, Emily Henderson, would choose hydrangeas (I had wrong judgements about them, ok?), but as you can see below – they are all over our yard and so beautiful. I am a full hydrangea girly now!! I really, really trusted Eric that they would plant plants that loved living in Oregon and would be easy to manage/tend to and beautiful year-round. They understood that we like a less manicured look, less structure, lots of levels and layers (I said no to orange, sorry, and nothing oddly tropical or like red roses). I really let them do their job because everything they showed me was so aligned with what we wanted. We were speaking the same language, which is really what you want from any designer. The Schedule From Eric: “Originally, we were thinking this would be a 4-week project. But because we’ve doubled the crew size to 6 guys, it’s likely to only take about 2 weeks”. OK!!!! Let go! Concrete Demo: Feb 17-20 Green Demo: Feb 21 Stone Patios/Paths: Feb 24-25 Soil/Grading: Feb 26 Irrigation: Feb 27 Plants: Feb 28 Irrigation: March 3 Lighting: March 3 Bark/Clover Lawn Seed: March 4 (we’ll come back in April, after freezing to apply the seed) They ended up extending it a bit, which worked better for us so that we could be around to capture more of the content. But we were seriously thrilled with the speed and manpower that went into it. Again, this whole “booking in fall and starting in winter” strategy strangely sped things up because it’s the slowest time of year, and a company of 7 Dees’ size has multiple crews they employ – more manpower and time to spend on us! The Prep Work This clearly wasn’t a DIY situation, at least not for us. They moved fast, and that chunk of the sports court was gone in a matter of days. The Hardscape – Flagstone Next came the laying of the paths and landing pads (which they drew out with water-soluble spray paint). If you think it’s just putting down stones (like we did), it’s clearly not. So much prep work underneath the stones as well as leveling and grading. But still, they were so fast. The dirt/puddle areas are where the plants would go. Then, we had the landing pads and the stepping stone paths to the sports court. Now, if you haven’t done flagstone before, know that this is a massive investment (ours cost over $20k). We could have used pea gravel, but it’s a lot messier and we wanted it to be cohesive with the rest of the walkway around the house. In Oregon, due to the rain, you really want solid hardscape to walk – you can’t use DG like you can in CA. So this was a massive investment and something we knew we needed the experts to execute. The Planting Phase Eric, our designer, created the plant selection that we tweaked together. Again, it’s a combination of perennials and evergreen plants and in all the tones that I love. One of the perks with working with them is that since they also have three garden centers in Portland (well, one in Vancouver), they call pull from them as well as place the bigger orders. They are also great resources as a home gardener without a designer – their inventory and selection is huge and so well cared for. The plants went in so fast, I couldn’t believe it. Brian and I were watching from inside like it was a movie – every day there was so much progress. So many people working so hard to make our yard beautiful. We felt so grateful. After planting, they added irrigation and the lighting, as well as a French drain with river rocks along the sports court because it was flooding a lot (remember that disturbed soil doesn’t drain as much as established soil – a fun fact I’m learning over and over). The June Reveal – 2 Months Ago We shot the first round of reveals in June because, well, it was done and looked so beautiful. Check out this post to see that full reveal. We needed to shoot the outdoor kitchen, so we did a tour of the landscaping as well. But little did we know that over the next six weeks things would pop and grow in the most beautiful way. It’s honestly so stunning, I can’t even tell you. Magical, enchanted, already so grown-in (thanks to the Monrovia plants that are so healthy and thrive so well). We have been hosting like crazy back here. We had another big 75-person multi-family school fundraiser here last Saturday – I love sharing it (read: showing it off :) so much). P.S. The theme was the pig’s birthday party, i.e., the “Wine and Swine,” which I need to show you photos from – Barb and Alicia were the belles of the ball in party hats!!! The Newest Update! Mid-July 2025 summer landscaping It’s incredibly beautiful. The panicle hydrangeas are incredible – all from their garden centers (Monrovia has very healthy, high-quality plants that are locally grown, which helps), and the layering, textures, and colors feel so natural but not messy. Here you can see how the whole yard works – the stone pathways with the picnic tables surrounded by all the greenery (designed to be full but not grow too high) and with the trees that will eventually create shade for the seating areas. We are hoping that greenery will eventually take over the grout lines in the stone (left just as soil, unplanted for budget reasons). We love how organic it feels and know that once it’s fully grown it we think it will look like it was always here. They did a great job specifying plants that would be ball barriers from the sport court but not too fragile or thorny. Here you can see the river rock that covers the French drain to keep water from flooding the plants or the new pickleball court. It’s just incredibly beautiful. Over the weekend, we put umbrellas over the picnic tables to create shade, which was wonderful (and made me secretly want big comfy upholstered chairs or a sofa + 2 chairs for the middle one to be more comfortable). The entire yard gets used when 80 people come over, and it’s incredibly delightful. Dennis’ 7 Dees did such a great job of making it look like a park-like area, casual but still elevated and appropriate to the farm vibe. Jess asked where the umbrellas went, but we just couldn’t get them all straight for the photos and videos at the same time – there is SUCH a hole in the market for long-lasting umbrella stands that actually keep umbrellas perfectly vertical. But I love that you can see the full garden without them. These hydrangeas keep changing color – first bright white, then blush, and now these sweet pastel pink. I’m here for all of the shades and love seeing the yard change. The pops of these hotter pinks from the agastache surprised me a bit, and while I love them, I want to add a few more to make the other areas more balanced. All of the echinaceas (perhaps my favorite flowers) are that bright pink, so holistically the yard works together really well. The lighting is perfect. It’s mostly path lighting for nighttime without it being lit up super bright. I know that most people like more/brighter landscape lighting, but we love the string lights on the fenceline and roofline and don’t mind that the garden area is more subtle. We had some uplights in LA and didn’t really love the vibe and prefer less (as of now). I love this view – seeing the sunroom through the trees and flowers is just so pretty. I really want to add wisteria to the back porch, to grow up those posts, so stay tuned on that (although I’m not ready for a phase 3 yet, folks). A huge thanks to Eric for the design and his wonderful crew at Dennis’ 7 Dees for executing it so professionally. This project was so seamless, and caused us zero unnecessary stress, which is saying A LOT. We got all the plants from the 7Dees garden centers (one in Lake Oswego, Vancouver and Cedar Hills/Beaverton). They source a lot from Monrovia for their garden centers, who grow such healthy plants (thank you). And always Kaitlin for all the beautiful photography. The rundown pickleball wall is getting replaced today, so we are about to do a full backyard tour with the kids in a couple of weeks. I can’t wait to show you how it all flows together. A Special Reader/ Follower Offers From Dennis’ 7 Dees For all of you in Portland, they are extending some pretty sweet deals. Check these out: Offer #1: Free Landscape Design with Installation, like ours below If you mention my name, “Emily Henderson” when requesting a residential landscape consultation, you’ll get a free AutoCAD landscape design (a $2,500 value) when you move forward with an installation contract of $15,000 or more. Essentially, you’ll pay the design fee upfront, but it’s fully credited back on the final invoice if you move forward with the full design (saving $2500). This offer would be good for contracted projects through August 31, 2025 (so act now!). Additionally, they wanted me to mention that right now they have fast install timelines available, which will change as fall approaches. They also offer flexible financing options to fit your budget *Reminder to use the landing page link we sent you guys for any website links. 🙂 Offer #2: 20% Off at Our Garden Centers For any Portland followers that are more into plants + DIY, Dennis’ 7 Dees Garden Centers are such a gem if you’re looking for gorgeous, high-quality plants and fun DIY inspiration. They even have the cutest indoor plant shops—like their Bridgeport Village location that’s all about houseplants. You can get 20% off any in-store purchase with the code EMHENDERSON through August 31st (in-store only at any of their 5 locations). I love the Lake Oswego store (it’s such a lovely shopping experience), but I usually pop into Cedar Hills because it’s closer—plus, their Vancouver location is supposed to be huge and beautiful too! Thank you, Dennis’ 7 Dees, for your landscape magic. I’m just so grateful and proud to call this ours. Here Are My Tips For Landscaping: Be realistic about your budget up front. I still fall into this dumb mental trap – not wanting to say what I can spend for fear that I’ve just played my card and lose leverage. But consistently, it has wasted people’s time. Our first quote for the first design came in so high because they didn’t know what our parameters were, so once we cut it by 1/2 or two-thirds (which was realistic for our budget), they had to edit and essentially redesign it. I should have said at the beginning what we really couldn’t go over on the project as a whole from the beginning. When it comes to landscaping, while you want your artistic vision to be executed (farm! natural! wildflowers!), what you really want is for an expert in your region to choose plants that they know will thrive in your yard, based on your conditions, sun location, etc. Like I said below, I weighed in on the color palette but wanted them to use their expertise to choose the right plants that would help the yard look pretty year round (crucial, as we use it and stare it at allllllll year long). Plan early for spring/summer usage. Most landscapers are slow from October/November – February, and then they get SLAMMED. The second that we start fantasizing about using our yard (February/March), they get inundated with new work, so do what we did – reach out in late fall, and then you could be ready by spring!

How Often to Water Your Petunias—4 Rules a Gardener Swears By

Grow them in pots, planters, or straight in your garden and petunias will reward you with big, bold flowers that just don’t quit. But if you want these colorful plants to keep on blooming from spring through fall, it’s important to water them right and just when they need it. Whether you’re new to growing petunias or just want to take your plants to the next level, this petunia watering guide is packed with expert tips on how and when to water petunias for peak flowering and healthier plants. Meet the Expert Cynthia Haynes, PhD. is a professor of horticulture at the Iowa State University. Eva Ward oversees the annual greenhouse team at Ward’s Nursery. Signs Your Petunias Need Watering Petunias wilt quickly if they don’t get enough water, and drop leaves, turn brown, and die back if their soil gets super dry. But you don’t need to wait for your plants to show signs of stress to know it’s time to water them: Just take a good hard look at the soil they’re growing in. “Petunias don’t like to stay wet for long periods, so check the soil first before watering,” says horticulture professor Cynthia Haynes. “Just scratch around the top inch of soil with your fingers to see if it’s dry, or lift smaller containers to check their weight. Then, water when the top inch of soil dries out or the container feels light.” Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! When Is the Best Time to Water Petunias? Like other plants, petunias absorb water best if you water them in the morning or in the evening a little before sunset. If you water petunias when the sun is high overhead, it can increase the amount of water that’s lost to evaporation and make it harder for your plants to absorb the water they need. That said, if your plants look stressed, it's better to water them right away than wait until morning. “Petunias are heavy drinkers and don’t recover well if the soil gets too dried out,” says plant expert Eva Ward. “Don’t wait for petunias to droop—water stress opens plants up to pests and many other problems.” How Often to Water Your Petunias Petunias should be watered often enough to keep their soil evenly moist, but not so frequently that their roots get waterlogged and start to rot. Exactly how often to water petunias can vary depending on the season, the size of your plants, the temperature, and the pots your petunias are growing in. “Watering frequency could be every 2 to 3 days, or daily if it’s a large plant in a hanging basket in full sun,” says Ward. “For larger patio containers, always keep the soil surface moist and use a lightweight mulch like buckwheat hulls to prevent evaporation.” Petunias growing in the garden will typically require less water than potted plants and may only need to be watered once a week. But this watering frequency can also vary, so always test the soil with your finger before you water. The Right Way to Water Your Petunias There’s no one-size-fits-all watering schedule for petunias. But in general, you’ll need to water petunias less in spring and more when temperatures rise and the plants fill out in summer. Being flexible with watering and following these simple tips will help you avoid underwatering or overwatering your plants and encourage petunias to flower more. Water Deeply “When watering, water deeply,” advises Ward. “And make sure the soil is fully moist and that excess water drains out of planter drainage holes.” The best way to do this is to water low and slow with your hose or a drip irrigation system. Deep, slow watering allows water to penetrate well into the soil around petunia roots and can keep gardens and planters from drying out too quickly. Keep Leaves Dry Like other plants, petunias can develop mildew issues if their leaves stay wet too long. To avoid this, water your plants in the morning and direct water to the soil line to keep it from splashing up on your plant's leaves. Don’t Overdo It Don’t be tempted to water petunias if their soil still feels wet. Overwatering is a surefire way to stress out your plants and cause petunias to wilt, yellow, or die from rot. Add Fertilizer “You’ll get the best flowers if you use a blossom booster liquid fertilizer with every other watering all season," Ward says. "Or if you prefer a slow-release granular blossom booster, scratch that into the soil surface around petunias in mid-June, mid-July, and mid-August.” Applying fertilizer when the soil is already moist helps petunias absorb it faster and can prevent fertilizer burn.

We Asked Arborists When to Prune Dogwood Trees, and They All Said the Same Thing

Spring is the worst time of year to prune your dogwood tree because you can negatively impact spring blooms. If you want to prune your dogwood trees, any other time of the year is perfect, depending on your pruning goals. Pros recommend straying away from too much pruning and only getting rid of 15% to 20% of the tree's foliage. Low-maintenance and adaptable dogwood trees can be beautiful home landscape additions, especially when the flowering varieties are in bloom. An added advantage is that these trees are usually pretty well-behaved and don't require intensive pruning. However, learning when and how to prune a dogwood tree is sensible to help keep your specimen looking and feeling its best. Our expert-approved guide will prevent you from having any cropping catastrophes. Meet the Expert Allen Tate is an ISA-certified arborist and Tree Care Operations Manager with Blooma Tree Experts. Heather Zidack is a Horticultural Outreach Educator in the Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, University of Connecticut. Should You Prune Dogwood Trees in the Spring? Spring is the worst time to prune trees in the dogwood family, according to ISA-certified arborist Allen Tate. “[This is] simply because they are waking up and showing us their blooms,” Tate says. “It’s best to let that process play out with little disturbance.” When to Prune Dogwood Trees It's possible to prune dogwood trees at any time of the year. However, the best time depends on several factors. According to Tate, this includes the goal of the pruning, the health of the tree, and what you are willing to sacrifice. “For example, if the goal is to improve aesthetics with routine pruning such as thinning, layering, and deadwood removal, then winter, summer or fall is just fine,” he says. “If you are hoping to keep size in check to an extent and need to remove larger portions, then early summer, [immediately after flowering] is best, so long as the tree is in good health and getting properly watered.” However, Tate cautions against pruning in summer if your tree is not in good health. The risks of pruning during the active growing season is why Horticultural Outreach Educator Heather Zidack recommends considering dogwood tree pruning in the winter. “In the summer, the tree is trying to make it through the active growing season by putting out leaves and carrying out photosynthesis,” she says. Healing cuts from pruning can stress your tree when it's already working hard, and this can increase the risk of your tree developing a disease, especially if it isn't in the best of health. “If you prune dogwood trees when they are dormant, you're going to reduce disease exposure,” Zidack says. However, keep in mind that if you prune branches in winter with buds that have formed on the previous season’s growth, you could see less flowering the next season. Why Prune Dogwood Trees The primary benefits of pruning dogwood trees are improving their appearance, removing dead or diseased branches, and encouraging a healthy structure. While dogwoods aren't typically fast-growing flowering trees, Zidack says pruning can be beneficial if they are outgrowing their space, especially when situated near your home or a power line. How to Prune Dogwood Trees There are several options when pruning your dogwood tree. Remove the 3 Ds: It's always a good idea to remove any dying, damaged, or diseased branches. Remove cross branches: “Eventually these will rub each other, and that rubbing is going to leave an open wound, creating the potential for disease and decline,” Zidack says. Thinning cuts: To thin dense growth, prune out some of the small branchlets, working from the bottom up and the inside out, being careful not to prune too vigorously. Future pruning: If your dogwood is getting a little too large for your liking, consider pruning out the oldest and tallest branches at the soil line. Rejuvenation pruning: If your tree is not doing well or is too large, you can try pruning it down to the ground. New buds should generate from the root system, leading to a smaller and, hopefully, healthier new tree. Avoid Vigorous Pruning Be careful not to over-prune when thinning out your dogwood tree. Tate explains that the recommended “pruning budget” for most trees is 20% to 30% (up to 1/3) of living canopy in one year. He doesn't recommend trimming away more than 15% to 20% for dogwoods—for the canopy as a whole and for individual branches. Pruning Tips Ready to start chopping? Keep these dogwood pruning tips in mind, before getting started. Identify the species: “There are 30 to 60 species of Dogwood, and they all have their own idiosyncrasies,” Zidack says. “Knowing the species lets you get more in-depth about their specific pruning needs and timings.” Seek advice if in doubt: Zidack recommends connecting with your local cooperative extension if you aren't sure about the species or want to ask a more in-depth pruning question. Don't prune from the top: Lopping off the top can result in an explosion of messy, watersprouting regrowth. Avoid flush cuts: This is when you cut into the branch collar (the enlarged portion of the branch where it meets the trunk). The collar contains cells promoting wound healing, so cutting above the collar edge is best. Use sterile shears: Forgetting to disinfect your pruning tools can encourage the spread of disease.