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Gardening

We Asked Arborists When to Prune Dogwood Trees, and They All Said the Same Thing

Spring is the worst time of year to prune your dogwood tree because you can negatively impact spring blooms. If you want to prune your dogwood trees, any other time of the year is perfect, depending on your pruning goals. Pros recommend straying away from too much pruning and only getting rid of 15% to 20% of the tree's foliage. Low-maintenance and adaptable dogwood trees can be beautiful home landscape additions, especially when the flowering varieties are in bloom. An added advantage is that these trees are usually pretty well-behaved and don't require intensive pruning. However, learning when and how to prune a dogwood tree is sensible to help keep your specimen looking and feeling its best. Our expert-approved guide will prevent you from having any cropping catastrophes. Meet the Expert Allen Tate is an ISA-certified arborist and Tree Care Operations Manager with Blooma Tree Experts. Heather Zidack is a Horticultural Outreach Educator in the Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, University of Connecticut. Should You Prune Dogwood Trees in the Spring? Spring is the worst time to prune trees in the dogwood family, according to ISA-certified arborist Allen Tate. “[This is] simply because they are waking up and showing us their blooms,” Tate says. “It’s best to let that process play out with little disturbance.” When to Prune Dogwood Trees It's possible to prune dogwood trees at any time of the year. However, the best time depends on several factors. According to Tate, this includes the goal of the pruning, the health of the tree, and what you are willing to sacrifice. “For example, if the goal is to improve aesthetics with routine pruning such as thinning, layering, and deadwood removal, then winter, summer or fall is just fine,” he says. “If you are hoping to keep size in check to an extent and need to remove larger portions, then early summer, [immediately after flowering] is best, so long as the tree is in good health and getting properly watered.” However, Tate cautions against pruning in summer if your tree is not in good health. The risks of pruning during the active growing season is why Horticultural Outreach Educator Heather Zidack recommends considering dogwood tree pruning in the winter. “In the summer, the tree is trying to make it through the active growing season by putting out leaves and carrying out photosynthesis,” she says. Healing cuts from pruning can stress your tree when it's already working hard, and this can increase the risk of your tree developing a disease, especially if it isn't in the best of health. “If you prune dogwood trees when they are dormant, you're going to reduce disease exposure,” Zidack says. However, keep in mind that if you prune branches in winter with buds that have formed on the previous season’s growth, you could see less flowering the next season. Why Prune Dogwood Trees The primary benefits of pruning dogwood trees are improving their appearance, removing dead or diseased branches, and encouraging a healthy structure. While dogwoods aren't typically fast-growing flowering trees, Zidack says pruning can be beneficial if they are outgrowing their space, especially when situated near your home or a power line. How to Prune Dogwood Trees There are several options when pruning your dogwood tree. Remove the 3 Ds: It's always a good idea to remove any dying, damaged, or diseased branches. Remove cross branches: “Eventually these will rub each other, and that rubbing is going to leave an open wound, creating the potential for disease and decline,” Zidack says. Thinning cuts: To thin dense growth, prune out some of the small branchlets, working from the bottom up and the inside out, being careful not to prune too vigorously. Future pruning: If your dogwood is getting a little too large for your liking, consider pruning out the oldest and tallest branches at the soil line. Rejuvenation pruning: If your tree is not doing well or is too large, you can try pruning it down to the ground. New buds should generate from the root system, leading to a smaller and, hopefully, healthier new tree. Avoid Vigorous Pruning Be careful not to over-prune when thinning out your dogwood tree. Tate explains that the recommended “pruning budget” for most trees is 20% to 30% (up to 1/3) of living canopy in one year. He doesn't recommend trimming away more than 15% to 20% for dogwoods—for the canopy as a whole and for individual branches. Pruning Tips Ready to start chopping? Keep these dogwood pruning tips in mind, before getting started. Identify the species: “There are 30 to 60 species of Dogwood, and they all have their own idiosyncrasies,” Zidack says. “Knowing the species lets you get more in-depth about their specific pruning needs and timings.” Seek advice if in doubt: Zidack recommends connecting with your local cooperative extension if you aren't sure about the species or want to ask a more in-depth pruning question. Don't prune from the top: Lopping off the top can result in an explosion of messy, watersprouting regrowth. Avoid flush cuts: This is when you cut into the branch collar (the enlarged portion of the branch where it meets the trunk). The collar contains cells promoting wound healing, so cutting above the collar edge is best. Use sterile shears: Forgetting to disinfect your pruning tools can encourage the spread of disease.

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Gardening

Don’t Let a Wilting Tomato Plant Ruin Your Harvest—Here’s How to Save It Fast

Tomato plants are the most commonly grown vegetable in the garden because they thrive in summer temperatures and produce delicious fresh produce.1 Novice and experienced gardeners carefully plant and tend the tomato plants, only to discover the plants wilting and dying one day. The cause can be something as simple as a lack of water or more complex, like fungal wilt diseases, tomato wilt viruses, walnut toxicity, or boring insects. When you discover a wilting tomato plant, it's important to act quickly and decisively to protect your other tomato plants. Follow our guide on the causes of wilting tomatoes and suggested fixes. Lack of Water Healthy tomato plants planted in garden soil require approximately one inch of water per week, and container-grown plants require approximately one gallon of water daily. A lack of water will cause the tomato plants to wilt, but if that is the only cause, they will revive rapidly after watering. Solution: Regularly apply water directly to the soil with a garden or soaker hose. To maintain a consistent level of moisture stick your finger into the soil at the base of the plant. If the soil is moist at a depth of two inches, don’t water but check the soil again the next day. If the soil is dry to the touch at a depth of two inches, slowly apply water to the plants so the water seeps into the soil. If you must use an overhead sprinkler, water in the morning so the foliage dries quickly to help prevent disease. Fungal Wilt Diseases Striking without warning, verticillium and fusarium wilt are two common causes of a seemingly healthy tomato plant wilting and dying within a few days. Both diseases are caused by fungal spores in the garden soil. The spores enter the plant through the root system and block the movement of water and nutrients. This causes the plant to wilt, turn yellow, and die. Other fungal diseases, early tomato blight and southern blight may not kill the plants but will greatly inhibit their fruit production. Solution: Unfortunately there is no treatment for fungal wilt diseases. The infected tomato plants should be removed and discarded. Do not place the diseased plants in your compost pile to help prevent the spread of the fungi. To help ensure healthy plants in the garden, rotate crops and do not plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, or potato plants in the same location every year. Since the fungi can live for several years, consider container-grown tomatoes for several years. You can also select tomato varieties that are resistant to fungal wilts. Look for plants labeled with 'VF' on the plant tag. Tomato Wilt Viruses Dozens of tomato viruses can cause tomato plants to wilt and die.2 Two of the most common are Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV) and Tomato Mosaic Virus (ToMV), which cause stunted growth, wilting, and unattractive fruit. The source of the virus can be other plants, seeds, or insects. The virus can be spread from one infected plant to others through your hands, gloves, or tools. Solution: There is no treatment for these viruses, and the plants should be removed and discarded to help prevent the spread of the virus. Look for virus-resistant varieties, rotate crops regularly, and wash your hands and garden tools after handling infected plants to help prevent the spread. Black Walnut Toxicity Black walnut trees and tomatoes do not belong together. All parts of the tree exude juglone, a toxin that causes stunted growth, wilting foliage, and death for tomato plants. Since the greatest concentration of juglone exists nearest the tree, plant tomatoes at least 20 to 25 feet away from the tree's dripline. Solution: Unfortunately, juglone cannot be eliminated from the soil and once tomatoes are affected, there is no treatment to save them. Removing the tree will not solve the problem because juglone can be found in the root system after the tree is cut down. If your gardening space is limited, consider container-grown tomatoes. Boring Insects The stalk borer is a purple and cream-striped caterpillar that can attack tomato plants and cause wilting and death of the plant. The caterpillar bores into the stem through a tiny hole and tunnels inside the plant destroying tissue. Solution: Once the borer has done its damage, the tomato plant should be removed and destroyed. There are no insecticides that will control the larva of this inconspicuous grayish-brown moth. To help prevent borers, keep weedy areas around the garden mowed well. How to Help Prevent Tomato Wilting Maintain a steady watering routine. Monitor weather conditions and provide one to two inches of water per week to the roots of the tomato plant. Do not allow the soil to become overly dry or overwater so the roots are left soggy. Provide adequate spacing between plants. Plant so that there is space between each tomato plant for air to flow freely to help prevent air-borne diseases. Practice crop rotation. Do not plant tomatoes in the same locations year after year. Rotate crops to allow soil-borne diseases to die. Maintain an orderly garden. Remove weeds that can attract harmful insects and spread diseases. Mulch to help maintain soil moisture. Cage or stake tomato plants to keep the fruit off the ground to limit disease spread. Buy disease-resistant seeds or transplants. Read seed packets, catalogs, and plant tags carefully to select disease-resistant tomato varieties. Cornell University maintains an excellent list to help you with plant selection.

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Fashion & Beauty

Really Great (And Mostly Affordable) Spring Basics

We are ready up here for spring (had a few mid 60s sunny days in February which is always such a tease). I’m mostly just fantasizing about spring break (sun! warmth! very little wifi!). So as I went shopping I found a decent amount of stuff that I LOVED, mostly on the affordable side (which is all relative I know). And per usual I try on a LOT more that I don’t love or wouldn’t bother to show you, so these are my favorites :) Solid long sleeve shirt with a raglan sleeve that looks so casual and still fun. 10/10 love that shirt. The pants are the famous Madewell darted barrel jeans in a cream (not bright white which always makes me nervous!) and this time I sized down to make them fit a bit more flattering. The Milano Birks I’ve had for years and I was pretty proud of myself for putting on a belt, which makes me feel VERY pulled together (bandana is old Clare V. but they sell something similar). A great thin white top (very Doen-esque) that is easy to tuck and perfect for humidity or high heat. I paired it with Gap’s new Bermuda short (which are long and not too tight but not too wide). They are GREAT (see them below in cream). But for those of you who like the skirt route, we LOVED this denim prairie style skirt – medium-weight, but has a nice thick hem at the bottom to keep some sort of structure. Would also just be cute with a sweatshirt or a tank top (this look was a bit too “church” for me, but admittedly pretty cute). HUGE fan of this short sleeved sweatshirt (it’s coming with me on spring break for mornings). It 1/2 tucks really nicely, looks cute with shorts, jeans, skirts, athleisure – just a real win for when you want to be casual but still look fun. These are the white versions of the longer Gap shorts – BIG FAN. Clocking in at $24.99 this is my summer “play dress” – tie anything around its waist, throw on sneakers (with socks if you want to be cool, I do not) and go have fun. I could even play pickle ball in it, perfect for long walks to the village for a beer – just so easy and affordable. This shirt was a splurge, but my goodness it’s so pretty. It’s coming with me for spring break because it’s cotton so it’s still really breathable (so good for dinners with bugs but still warm at night). While this is Farm Rio (which typically is very resort wear) I think this is a solid spring and summer top that I will wear ALL THE TIME. A solid denim short and breezy white top with cute stitching (so great for hotter climates). And I even paired with more of a statement necklace which is pretty dang cute. While the leopard pants are certainly not “affordable spring basics” (I love them BTW) the shirt sure is. It’s from The Gap and is so flattering and looks very high end, IMHO. Here I’m wearing a small (which I returned for an XS) so it runs pretty big. It’s rather long (which I stuffed into my leopard stretch pants, as you do) and the buttons on the sleeve are so pretty. I LOVE this shirt (dark denim is a thing right now) and it comes in white and black as well. But yeah, the leopard hot pants are giving RHONJ in a way that I’m actually into (but dressing them down with a sweatshirt might be the better move). I was so intrigued with this convertible Gap top – very architectural and cool. The buttons unsnap, going from a longer shirt with a tail to more of a cropped boxy shape. I’m wearing an xs and it’s still pretty oversized. I really liked it but ended up returning it just because I didn’t think I’d wear it that often (since I don’t go into an office). The skirt is a new mini from H&M that is pretty dang cute (and I bought the top to match – denim post coming soon!).

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Home Decor

A Quick MOTO Bedroom Update: Caitlin And Jess Have Fun New Additions But Also Need Some Help!

Hello!!! We promise we haven’t forgotten you or our bedrooms. But admittedly, Caitlin and I both know we haven’t been as on top of our bedroom progress as we had hoped. SO SORRY!! However, progress has been made (I actually have a very exciting announcement:))!! So today we wanted to give a little update on the progress and ask y’alls opinion about a couple of things we are a little stuck on. Design should always be collaborative! So we’ll spare you a long intro and just get right to it. Caitlin take it away… Caitlin Before we get into it – everyone, please wish Jess a happy birthday! I couldn’t ask for a better work wife, friend, confidant, or inspiration. I was nervous meeting Jess for the first time – I was intimidated by how cool she was! – and was pleasantly surprised to discover the kindest person I’ve ever known. HAPPY BIRTHDAY, BUNGO! I know. I KNOW! I know what you’re thinking. “Caitlin, you’ve been working on this space for over a year. What’s the holdup?” It’s a fair ask, so I’d like to see your question and raise you an inquiry of my own: am I, uh, dumb? Because guys – I can’t figure out how to go faster. How are you managing your decorating budget with your more necessary expenditures? Am I totally missing something? (Seriously, I’m asking.) Maybe you can relate – it just feels like a struggle to prioritize my own home when there are birthday presents to buy, destination bachelorette parties and weddings to attend, cross-country moves to pay off, car payments, medical bill installments…it all adds up so fast! So time and time again, this (functional, livable, halfway-finished) space is pushed to the back burner. I’ve been struck by the curse of the “good enough for now” room – has anyone else been afflicted? PLEASE ADVISE. But it’s not all doom and gloom! Over the past few months, I was able to stash away a seemingly-paltry sum – just over $1,000 – which I spent on a few essential upgrades. My biggest splurge was on this vintage Danish teak and mahogany gentleman’s chest. It’s perfectly sized for the space (4′ wide and nearly 4′ tall!) with an ultra-functional combination of dressers and shelves. I paid $750 in total for this one – including delivery from the Palm Desert area, over two hours away! – so it wasn’t cheap, but it was well worth the wait. But it’s not all doom and gloom! Over the past few months, I was able to stash away a seemingly-paltry sum – just over $1,000 – which I spent on a few essential upgrades. My biggest splurge was on this vintage Danish teak and mahogany gentleman’s chest. It’s perfectly sized for the space (4′ wide and nearly 4′ tall!) with an ultra-functional combination of dressers and shelves. I paid $750 in total for this one – including delivery from the Palm Desert area, over two hours away! – so it wasn’t cheap, but it was well worth the wait. Looking into the room, you may clock two new additions: plug-in Stilnovo-style sconces! The damage? $127.45 for the pair, and $84.73 for the TaskRabbit who mounted them to the plaster wall. The shipping took an eternity and we had to manually assemble each sconce, but I couldn’t be more pleased with the finished product. I still need to mask the cords a bit (using this tutorial from Sara, bless her), but I’m holding off until we land on a paint color. To that end: help! The cognac/cobalt/olive/gold color palette is MUCH more flexible than I’d anticipated – it looks good with every paint color I’ve thrown into my mockup! When all of your options are good options, how do you decide? (I’m open to suggestions. Begging for them, even!) It wouldn’t be an update post without an admission of regret: I don’t think I made the right nightstand call. I grabbed these Serena & Lily-style side tables at TJ Maxx, and they’re a perfect fit in so many ways…but now, after the addition of the wood dresser, they look a little out of place. Too coastal? Too glam? Too fussy? These nightstands do technically check all of my boxes – the right size, the right shape, the right functionality – but something is off. Am I overthinking, or do you agree? Man – the room gets more and more unhinged as we go! DON’T JUDGE ME, PLEASE. This is my dresser, stylishly adorned with the 12-year-old television from my first apartment in LA. I love having two TVs in the house – Dennis can play EAFC with his friends in the living room while I binge Investigation Discovery in the bedroom – but this placement is GARBAGE. Den’s view of the TV is often blocked; I’m essentially parallel with the screen, which is surprisingly not conducive to productive viewing; and, most importantly, I’m wasting SO MUCH GOOD STYLING SPACE. The flat surface that houses our monstrous black box will soon play host to 9 square feet of art, trinkets, and ephemera. Just you wait!!! Which brings us to our final wall: a big, blank, shoe-corralling YAWNFEST. I’m imagining a Frame TV hiding up here, mixed amongst some sort of gallery wall. (A TV we can both watch while laying in bed at night, no strange positioning required! Can you imagine?) Ideally, I’d like to move the shoe storage out of the bedroom entirely – we have a lot of hall space, and I think I could figure out a way to hide them with some sort of skirted table – but I am very open to suggestions. I know that this all doesn’t seem like much, but it’s felt like a lot of progress to me! I do still have a few large expenses looming: a good vintage light fixture (and an electrician to install it – our building still has the original wiring, and I know my skill level), the Frame TV, high-quality framing for a few precious art pieces, and maybe some swapped nightstands…but I can (truly) see the light at the end of the tunnel! I know I can DIY some window treatments; I know we can handle painting; I know that eventually, it’ll cool down enough to warrant making the bed with more than a sheet. It’s getting there! But man, I’ll take all the feedback I can get. What say you??? Jess Alright, first things first… I NO LONGER AM SLEEPING ON THE FLOOR!! Let me tell you that I. Feel. Different. More together. More distinguished. Maybe less embarrassed to have friends see my bedroom. It’s been amazing. The first night was wild. It was like I was sleeping on a tower overseeing all of my land. After that, I nearly set up an office in my bed but knew I’d have no chance of actual productivity. But man, between my new custom Buildlane bed (saying that is still a dream come true) and my Tuft & Needle mattress, you can’t tell me that when I’m in that room I’m not a full-blown freaking princess. Here is a sneak peek. AHHH!! BUT WAIT. Please please know that literally 95% of the bedding and the rug will change! Right now this room is a hundred shades of beige but NOT in a way I think is good and to me it just looks drab. So avert your eyes from those things and focus on that beautiful bed and incredible bench:) Can you stand it!? I have a bed and it’s one that I know I’ll love forever. I said it in my last post about the design process, but the goal was not only to design exactly what I wanted for this room but to also make sure this bed was versatile style-wise for the future. I chose fabrics and colors I’ve loved my whole life so regardless of what room and style I put with this bed, it will work. I will also steam it a little more before the shoot I promise. But I kinda love the lived-in look. This is a much better representation of what the colors look like in person. Warm but elevated (that’s at least what I’m telling myself the vibe is). As a reminder, I got these incredible fabrics from Kravet. The velvet is Clarke & Clarke in “Honey” and the linen is Kravet Basics x Thom Filicia in Sweeting – Ivory. I also couldn’t be happier with Buildlane’s construction! It’s exactly what I envisioned. If you are a designer that needs custom furniture I can’t recommend either of these companies more. Oh, and that little wall sticker in the first bedroom photo is the paint color I’ve chosen! White Flour by Sherwin-Williams. If you can believe it allllll of these sticker samples are white. Like white, white! But as you can see, in my room some go blue, purple, and even yellow. Wild, right?? I even ordered the one that Sara used in her living and dining room and it’s the top middle one. It’s so blue in my room but perfect and happy in hers. Before I ordered the samples I was sure that was going to be the one before I put it up on my wall. That’s why testing is sooooo important in the space you are painting. Recs are great but it’s impossible to make a final call without getting a swatch in the actual room. DON’T DO IT, K?? I know that painting it a different white seems a little nuts to some but that’s exactly what I did in my last apartment and it made all the difference. It felt brand new in the best way so I am pumped to get this color up on these walls! Plus, since I’ve lived there for almost 4 years my wonderful landlord is paying for the painter. Thank the lord since I legit have 11 doors in my bedroom (french doors and screens to the balcony) as well as all that trim. So could I do it myself?? Technically yes but it’s a no for me dawg. Now, let’s hear it for the bench! I am still pinching myself that I, Jessica A. Bunge, have a Katy Skelton piece in my home. Due to some back-ordering issues for the original Kelly Wearster patterned fabric that I had picked out, I decided to go solid with the main bench fabric. I matched the color to the off-white in the Gaston Y Daniela green check fabric which turned out to be this Kravet Basics. It’s actually so so perfect and gives me a lot more room to play with pattern on the bedding. Plus if I’m totally honest, I was getting a little “square happy” and very grateful to have been pushed to pull back a little:) Look, your girl loves a square shape and sometimes I need to be saved from myself! So again, PLEASE ignore the bedding and rug you see. It’s NOT how it will look when it’s done. Can you tell I’m extremely nervous people will think that I think this looks good?? It just doesn’t do the bed or bench any justice! Now, I have two questions on a different topic. I’m not sold on what I should do for my curtains. Question #1: I love the lightness of my simple linen IKEA panels but have dreams of them being a soft warm taupe. Should I get new ones or try to stain them with maybe tea?? My only concern is that I do really like them as-is and could save them for the future. The I could just get new panels in the color I want. Oh, and here’s yet another ask to please pardon the mess that was my bedroom last year! This was the only decent picture I had to show the curtains. I also realized I’m going to have to get them hemmed if I don’t raise the rod which is annoying but not the end of the world. See next question… Question #2: I’m undecided about where I would hang my curtain rod. As you can see it’s currently it’s on the window moulding. I’ve always intended to raise it above to give the room more height. But since this is a 110-year-old building maybe that’s not the move? But I’m also planning on doing a tile border under the crown moulding so covering the majority of that side might look strange? Thoughts?? Now, I typed this question and then I made these graphics and I’m more torn. I way prefer the rod above the moulding (I realized I did in my living room lol) but picturing the tile and having them under the rod does seem odd. I just don’t know. I guess I’ll tile first and then decide?? Again, thoughts? Ok, that’s where we’re at and again, we promise we are moving as fast as we can! Any thoughts on our questions would greatly be appreciated:) BYEEEE

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