Fashion & Beauty

5 Women Reviewed Abercrombie’s Viral Best Selling Dress…Here’s What We Think

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Drescription

Earlier this summer, I stepped into an Abercrombie location at the Christiana Mall in Delaware. This was not the Abercrombie of yore – there were no dark lights, no overpowering scent of cologne, no ear-splitting bass. Nary a shirtless teen in sight! On the contrary: this was the new Abercrombie. The 2025 version. The transformation was made evident when a young tween, dragged in by her early 40s mother and wholly uninterested in every dress in front of her, gestured to me, a 33-year-old woman minding my own business, and said, “This store is for people like her.”

“Her,” in this case, means adults. Grown-ups. (The horror!!!!) We grew up, and Abercrombie grew up with us. Gone are the layering tanks, the popped collars, the micro-shorts, the air of exclusivity. Instead, you’ll find your local Abercrombie stocked with modest midi-length dresses, comfortable jeans, athleisure with built-in bras, and easy throw-on-and-go basics at wallet-friendly prices. WHO KNEW?! Well, I did – and that’s why I forced the team to try on and review Abercrombie’s Viral Best Selling Dress, the Emerson collection. I’m convinced that this style looks good on everyone (you can be the judge below!) and it’s offered in a variety of shapes, cuts, lengths, and patterns, meaning that there is an Emerson for every body. (I mean that literally, too – sizing runs from 000-24 and regular, petite, and tall lengths are offered. They’re not perfect, but Abercrombie is far more inclusive than other major brands out there today.) ANYWAY – you ready to see what these grown-up adults think of their new dresses?

Emily

Dress Size: Small/Regular

My Height: 5’4″

Thoughts: When things go viral, I’m curious for sure – is it really that good? Would it work on my body? Since I have larger ladies and a short torso, I really thought that the fitted bodice would crawl up and make me look pregnant (true story for all the Reformation dresses designed like this), but I was so pleasantly surprised by the structure of this dress! I really love it (with one caveat). It’s comfortable, drapes really well, obviously the sleeves are flattering, and the bodice slimming and just so easy to wear (shout out to the alllllll the various patterns). My only issue is that I only have one bra that has wide enough straps and a low enough back to not be seen. I actually think it’s best to not wear a bra with this dress, but I’m not terribly comfortable doing that. The square neck is very wide, and it’s not that the back is super low it’s that my supportive bras just have a thicker strap that does ride up higher. I bought these cakes, but they didn’t arrive in time. So I’m keeping this dress (I bought it in the poplin, too, but prefer the linen, so I returned that one). I know we are in mid-July, so buying a linen midi dress might feel “end of season,” but the sale price of this is an incredible deal (and it’s too hot to buy fall right now!). I’m sure the other ladies will say this, but if you are in between sizes, size down – I’m in between small and medium in most things right now (I really wish the world would get itself together and agree on a universal sizing), and bought a small, which fits great. I was prepared to say “cute dress, not for me” but I’m excited to announce that even if you are apple shaped, with a bigger bosom, this dress is very flattering and makes me feel good (just beware of the bra needs).

Gretchen

Dress Size: Large/Tall

My Height: 5’9″

Thoughts: Consider me a fan of Abercrombie’s resurgence! Gone are the days of me rocking a moose-embroidered, long-sleeved babydoll top to 3rd period (thankfully). Now, I’m wearing puffy sleeves and flowy skirts to wine country, baby! We’ve graduated, and I like it. Especially this style of dress; big puffy sleeves, a square neckline, and a tiered skirt that hits just right at the waist. I was smitten with this cute wine and cheese pattern on the fabric, which is admittedly a little too on the nose to wear wine tasting (what I’m doing in this picture), BUT so many strangers (okay, two) came up to me and told me they loved the dress! So I consider that a win and have plans to wear this piece other places, too. I wasn’t totally sure about the sizing, so I tested a variety, and really I just wish they sold a medium-and-a-half. The medium fit me super well in the waist/ribs, but squished the girls down in a weird way. The large fit best in the chest but is looser than I would like in the waist. I went with the large tall (I’m 5’9″) over a regular because I think a longer midi skirt looks better on me. Overall, I’m pretty pleased with this dress and think the quality is great, especially for the price point.

Jess

Dress Size: Small/Petite

My Height: 5’4″

Thoughts: What I will say first is that it is an extremely cute dress that doesn’t require my size C-cup breasts to wear a bra, and since it doesn’t have a fitted skirt, I can wear whatever style underwear my heart could desire (granny, duh). The pattern is so sweet, it’s lined, and overall, the quality feels so good. I chose a petite length since it’s a “mini” dress (though, I don’t think it’s all that mini) and was afraid the regular would have hit me in an awkward spot. Oh, and it was a bit of thing to get on because it’s a pullover, but once you’re in, it’s so comfortable and you feel secure! But as truly cute as it is and think it looks on me, it’s just not my style. I sort of figured as much when this style was chosen, but as my mother always told me, “Just try it on, you never you and you might be surprised.” However, since I know I just wouldn’t wear it enough, I’m going to return it. This is a dress that’s much more “Jess”:)

Caitlin

Dress Size: Large/Regular

My Height: 5’8″

Thoughts: I’ve been screaming about Abercrombie for TWO WHOLE YEARS, and it’s about time my team started paying attention!!! The Emerson line is a total breeze to wear – it’s the epitome of the “throw on and go” dress to me. Everyone looks good in it, they’re appropriate for nearly every occasion (church! Antiquing! Farmer’s market! Parent/teacher conference! Thanksgiving dinner!), and honestly…they’re pretty fun and princess-y to wear. I love the pockets, I love that my 36Fs fit inside (I’m bra-less here, with room leftover!), and I love the variety of cuts and patterns. If none of the current pieces are doing it for you, never fear: they drop new pieces every season.

And while we’re talking Abercrombie: here’s the Mila dress I’ve been yappin’ about all summer! ICYMI, I’ve been on a “shop small or not at all” kick in 2025…and it was going great, until I tried this dress on. It’s simultaneously structured-yet-breezy, supportive enough up top that I can still go bra-free (praise be!!!), and I ADORE the cut of the straps – it covers up my armpit folds, or lumps, or whatever those weird pieces of skin between my boob and my armpit are called. I wear this one at least once a week – it’s just SO easy and flattering. If the Emerson cut isn’t doing it for you, give the rest of the dresses a look – they have some great basics at rock-bottom prices.

Mallory

Dress Size: Small/Regular

My Height: 5’7″

Thoughts: Imagine how confused I was when I opened up this blog post in the backend and saw everyone’s Abercrombie dress that did NOT look like the one I ordered!! Caitlin raved about this dress, which is how we came up with the idea to do an Abercrombie dress try-on, so I thought we were going with that one, but JOKES ON ME!! I don’t know what happened. But this is what I ordered and I LOVE IT, so I’m gonna review it anyway (lol this is the funniest thing that’s ever happened to me on the blog). Let’s get into it, though. This dress comes in a few different simple colors, and this really fun pattern too. The quality is shockingly good – there’s a bodice that’s super flattering but isn’t tight and uncomfortable (I don’t know how they do it). I was super impressed with the fit (I got a small). But wait – I saved the best part for last – IT HAS POCKETS! I’ll be wearing this all summer. Thanks, bye!

Marlee

Dress Size: Small/Regular

My Height: 5’8″

Thoughts: I am not a huge fan of puffy sleeves on myself, and I don’t really wear midi or maxi dresses casually, so I was unsure about reviewing this line when the team first proposed it (didn’t feel super me) – but I was happy to see the Emerson Cap Sleeve Mini Dress as an option in the line! I ordered a Size S in the black (regular height). My biggest takeaway is WHY am I not wearing square necklines ALLLL the time? It’s so cute – combined with the little cap sleeves, I ended up liking this dress much more than I thought I would. From a sizing standpoint, it felt pretty true to size, and I liked that the back area where the zipper has ruching, so it’s pretty stretchy. Lengthwise, it hit at a good point on my legs but is on the longer side for a mini dress – I do have a shorter torso, but if you’re worried about the length, I think it’s totally fine/appropriate. I went braless and felt totally fine, but if you need more support or feel most comfortable wearing a bra, I do think you would have to go strapless (unless you don’t mind a little peekaboo strap) – the neckline did go basically all the way to my armpit. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by this item, and I think it will be a great, simple staple to have in my closet!

There you go! Let us know what you think. Do you like the kinds of reviews? Are you going to try an Abercrombie dress now? Have a great weekend, pals!

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Gardening

We Asked Arborists When to Prune Dogwood Trees, and They All Said the Same Thing

Spring is the worst time of year to prune your dogwood tree because you can negatively impact spring blooms. If you want to prune your dogwood trees, any other time of the year is perfect, depending on your pruning goals. Pros recommend straying away from too much pruning and only getting rid of 15% to 20% of the tree's foliage. Low-maintenance and adaptable dogwood trees can be beautiful home landscape additions, especially when the flowering varieties are in bloom. An added advantage is that these trees are usually pretty well-behaved and don't require intensive pruning. However, learning when and how to prune a dogwood tree is sensible to help keep your specimen looking and feeling its best. Our expert-approved guide will prevent you from having any cropping catastrophes. Meet the Expert Allen Tate is an ISA-certified arborist and Tree Care Operations Manager with Blooma Tree Experts. Heather Zidack is a Horticultural Outreach Educator in the Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, University of Connecticut. Should You Prune Dogwood Trees in the Spring? Spring is the worst time to prune trees in the dogwood family, according to ISA-certified arborist Allen Tate. “[This is] simply because they are waking up and showing us their blooms,” Tate says. “It’s best to let that process play out with little disturbance.” When to Prune Dogwood Trees It's possible to prune dogwood trees at any time of the year. However, the best time depends on several factors. According to Tate, this includes the goal of the pruning, the health of the tree, and what you are willing to sacrifice. “For example, if the goal is to improve aesthetics with routine pruning such as thinning, layering, and deadwood removal, then winter, summer or fall is just fine,” he says. “If you are hoping to keep size in check to an extent and need to remove larger portions, then early summer, [immediately after flowering] is best, so long as the tree is in good health and getting properly watered.” However, Tate cautions against pruning in summer if your tree is not in good health. The risks of pruning during the active growing season is why Horticultural Outreach Educator Heather Zidack recommends considering dogwood tree pruning in the winter. “In the summer, the tree is trying to make it through the active growing season by putting out leaves and carrying out photosynthesis,” she says. Healing cuts from pruning can stress your tree when it's already working hard, and this can increase the risk of your tree developing a disease, especially if it isn't in the best of health. “If you prune dogwood trees when they are dormant, you're going to reduce disease exposure,” Zidack says. However, keep in mind that if you prune branches in winter with buds that have formed on the previous season’s growth, you could see less flowering the next season. Why Prune Dogwood Trees The primary benefits of pruning dogwood trees are improving their appearance, removing dead or diseased branches, and encouraging a healthy structure. While dogwoods aren't typically fast-growing flowering trees, Zidack says pruning can be beneficial if they are outgrowing their space, especially when situated near your home or a power line. How to Prune Dogwood Trees There are several options when pruning your dogwood tree. Remove the 3 Ds: It's always a good idea to remove any dying, damaged, or diseased branches. Remove cross branches: “Eventually these will rub each other, and that rubbing is going to leave an open wound, creating the potential for disease and decline,” Zidack says. Thinning cuts: To thin dense growth, prune out some of the small branchlets, working from the bottom up and the inside out, being careful not to prune too vigorously. Future pruning: If your dogwood is getting a little too large for your liking, consider pruning out the oldest and tallest branches at the soil line. Rejuvenation pruning: If your tree is not doing well or is too large, you can try pruning it down to the ground. New buds should generate from the root system, leading to a smaller and, hopefully, healthier new tree. Avoid Vigorous Pruning Be careful not to over-prune when thinning out your dogwood tree. Tate explains that the recommended “pruning budget” for most trees is 20% to 30% (up to 1/3) of living canopy in one year. He doesn't recommend trimming away more than 15% to 20% for dogwoods—for the canopy as a whole and for individual branches. Pruning Tips Ready to start chopping? Keep these dogwood pruning tips in mind, before getting started. Identify the species: “There are 30 to 60 species of Dogwood, and they all have their own idiosyncrasies,” Zidack says. “Knowing the species lets you get more in-depth about their specific pruning needs and timings.” Seek advice if in doubt: Zidack recommends connecting with your local cooperative extension if you aren't sure about the species or want to ask a more in-depth pruning question. Don't prune from the top: Lopping off the top can result in an explosion of messy, watersprouting regrowth. Avoid flush cuts: This is when you cut into the branch collar (the enlarged portion of the branch where it meets the trunk). The collar contains cells promoting wound healing, so cutting above the collar edge is best. Use sterile shears: Forgetting to disinfect your pruning tools can encourage the spread of disease.

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Home Decor

The Case For The Unassuming Backyard Picnic Table

While Caitlin writes hilarious posts against curved sofas, I’m over here doing the opposite and bringing awareness to an oft-dismissed piece of outdoor furniture. As the self-appointed PR ambassador for “big picnic tables,” I wanted to answer the 3-4 people who are curious why I like them so much. You see, the basic, pedestrian picnic table isn’t a typical designer move – no fancy wood grain, barely mixed finishes (silver screws could count?), neither trend forward nor extremely comfortable. They are literally everywhere you look – at public parks, churches, and schoolyards. And yet, they are so perfect for us and I don’t know of a solution that would work as well in our parklike backyard. So the question is: Why should I get a picnic table? Followed up with a round up of a few with different styles (some fancier, I promise). They Work On Every Uneven Floor Surface I believe it was 3 years ago when I bought my first picnic table (seen above). We had this pea gravel area in front of the mini-gym (near the mini-pool), and pea gravel is notoriously annoying for chair legs (they get stuck, hard to move each chair, off balance, and they look dumb/sloppy because they are never even). So it was a no-brainer – what table and chairs would work on such a precarious floor? An attached bench picnic table. I ordered these from Wayfair, and I remember they weren’t cheap ($750), which is admittedly a lot for a wood picnic table. But I liked the cleaner lines of the shape (see how they are finished all straight?), the tone of the wood, and how it was assembled. I ordered 2 so we could put them together for bigger kid parties. They Sit Evenly On Flagstone I moved two of them onto the flagstone landing pads that meander through our newly finished area in the backyard (thanks to Dennis’ 7 Dees) and LOVE THEM. 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In conclusion (I feel like I’m writing a term paper in 7th grade), here is why I love picnic tables: The vibe is casual, classic, and inviting, and says “all are welcome to sit here and enjoy a day in the park together”. They are affordable because a table + 6 chairs would be FAR more expensive. They age really nicely, should you leave them out year-round (like we do). If you buy pressure-treated wood or paint them with the right paint, you don’t need to cover them – they just live, and honestly, they create a nice-to-look-at wood sculpture (that might be a stretch, but it works for me). They work almost everywhere – flagstone, pea gravel, grass. I wouldn’t put them on a fancier back patio (they do make a space look instantly casual, so if that’s not a vibe you want, then yea,h they might not be for your space). I didn’t choose them for the kitchen patio, which is herringbone brick – but I think with a cute umbrella it could work there, too! 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Gardening

We Asked Hydrangea Specialists for Their Top Care Tips, and They'll Save Even the Droopiest Flowers

Throughout the U.S., hydrangeas are the quintessential summer flower. With their full, round blossoms and stunning array of colors, they’re a perfect addition to a seasonal flower garden, especially if you’re looking to add bushes and shrubs to the mix. So, what does growing hydrangeas require? We checked in with a few gardening pros with a particular aptitude for this beloved shrub to find out some top tips. Meet the Expert Laura Root is a gardening expert and the senior merchant of live plants and hardgoods for Jackson & Perkins. Linda Vater is the plant expert for Southern Living® Plant Collection. Plant in Early Spring or Fall If you’re hoping to add hydrangeas to your yard, gardening pro Laura Root says the best time to plant these beauties is in early spring or fall. “This allows for cooler temperatures and more consistent moisture, which helps the plants establish strong roots before the stress of summer heat or winter cold sets in,” she says. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Consider Your Location While hydrangeas grow well throughout much of the US, plant pro Linda Vater still suggests checking your USDA zone. “Many popular species, like Hydrangea macrophylla, are hardy in Zones 5–9, representing a broad swath of the United States,” she says, before noting that this is why personal considerations are important, too. “For example, in more northerly regions, spring planting allows optimal time for root development before winter’s chill sets in,” says Vater. “In the [southern U.S.], fall planting is often ideal to allow a long lead time to the region’s intense summer heat.” But no matter where you are, Vater says mid-summer planting should be avoided due to heat stress and water needs of newly planted hydrangeas. Keep Soil Moist and Drained According to Root, hydrangeas require moist, well-draining soil that’s rich in organic matter. “They prefer consistent moisture and soil that stays damp but not soggy,” she says. “Over-watering can cause root rot, while letting the soil dry out stresses the plant.” Be sure to stick to a reliable watering schedule—especially if you’re having a dry season or cultivating newer hydrangea shrubs. “It’s important to water consistently during your hydrangea’s first year to support healthy root establishment,” says Vater. Adjust pH Levels for Desired Colors Along with moisture levels, it’s also important to note your soil’s pH, as this is important for both your hydrangea’s health and the color of its blooms. “In some varieties, acidic soil promotes blue blooms, while alkaline soil encourages pink flowers,” Root says. “Use a soil acidifier for blue blooms or garden lime for pink blooms.” However, don’t adjust your soil’s pH too dramatically, or without testing first. “Making drastic changes without testing can limit nutrient uptake and harm the plant,” she says. Expect Blooms in Late Spring Through Summer If you’re excited to clip your hydrangeas for indoor arrangements, Root says healthy plants are known for their long bloom times. In fact, you should see flowers appear from late spring through summer, depending on the variety you’ve planted. “Once established, and with proper care, gardeners can look forward to months of beautiful blooms during the growing season,” she says. Avoid Clay Soil Along with keeping your soil watered at the correct levels and monitoring the pH, Root says you should also avoid heavy clay soils because they trap too much moisture. However, if you do have this kind of soil, there are things you can do. Root suggests amending with organic matter to improve drainage. Consider Your Space Needs Depending on your space and location of your hydrangea, it’s important to consider the size. Some can grow up to 20 feet, while others are fairly compact. “White Wedding fits well in tight spaces and containers and requires little pruning to maintain its size,” Vater says. But others—such as the Hydrangea macrophylla which is considered the largest variety—can require much more space. Most Recommended Hydrangea Varieties Both Vater and Root shared their top picks for hydrangea varieties. Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf): Root recommends these for their large, colorful blooms that change color with pH. These can also be compact and drought-tolerant, and Vater notes that this variety is reliably hardy throughout much of the U.S. Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth): This one has showy white blooms and is very adaptable. White Wedding Hydrangea: Vater explains these are abundant in flowers and well-suited to small spaces like containers and cut flower gardens. Heart Throb Hydrangea: Its vibrant cherry red color is edged in vibrant green, which Vater says becomes more prominent over time. Dear Dolores Hydrangea: Vater says this is perfect if you want a classic pink hydrangea in your garden.

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Gardening

Don’t Let Splitting Tomatoes Ruin Your Harvest—How to Save Them Fast

After tending to your tomato plants for weeks, cracks are a common but frustrating sight. Split tomatoes are generally safe to eat, but the exposed flesh does shorten their shelf life since they are more prone to pests and bacteria. That's why getting to the bottom of why it's happening will allow you to enjoy your tomato bounty at your own pace. Learn the most common reason tomatoes split on the vine (it's actually a little surprising), plus other contributing factors. Why Tomatoes Split on the Vine Inconsistent watering: The most common reason tomatoes split on the vine is rapid water fluctuations resulting from a combination of overwatering and underwatering your plants. Too much nitrogen: Nitrogen speeds up tomato growth, but too much of it can cause splitting. Over-ripening: Allowing your tomatoes to over-ripen can cause them to swell and split. This can happen on or off the vine. 4 Signs Splitting Might Happen Soon Small cracks are forming: Pay attention to the area of your tomatoes around their stems. If you notice any small cracks, pick and enjoy your tomatoes before they develop full-on splits. A rainstorm is coming: A fast and furious downpour can cause your tomatoes to soak up too much water at once, especially after a dry spell. The soil has dried out: If you've accidentally allowed your tomato plant's soil to dry out during the tomato ripening stage, your next harvest might contain a few splits. The leaves and vines are growing rapidly: If your tomato plant foliage has been growing particularly fast this year, it could be a sign that there is too much nitrogen in the soil. How to Prevent Tomato Splitting The key to preventing your tomatoes from splitting is to provide them with a consistent water source. Both overwatering and underwatering your tomatoes can cause splits, so aim to water them every three to four days for a total of 1 to 2 inches per week during their fruiting stage. Keep the top 2 to 3 inches of soil moist, but never soggy (especially if you are growing them in containers). Additionally, if you notice the forecast is calling for heavy rain, consider harvesting the tomatoes that are showing some color ahead of the storm. They will ripen off the vine and will be less likely to split in the process. It's also a good idea to test the nitrogen content in your soil when your tomato plants get close to the fruiting stage. You can use an at-home testing kit that reveals whether there is a surplus. Adding mulch can lower the soil's nitrogen content. Lastly, opt to grow tomato varieties bred to have more flexible skin. Certain varieties, like Big Beef, Big Boy, and Box Car Willie, are less prone to cracking.

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