10 “emily henderson approved” spring blouses

Fashion & Beauty

10 “Emily Henderson-Approved” Spring Blouses

Drescription

Ihave a big shoot coming up in LA in a couple of weeks and I was tasked to find a wardrobe for a “fun, summer BBQ” which is obviously right up my alley (shooting in Orange County). I need 3-5 looks so I tried on a lot of tops (and a couple of dresses), and these are my favorites FOR SURE. So while I’m out of the country with my fam, here are some cute spring/summer blouses that I really love (just not sure I need ALL of them, but we’ll see). I haven’t really curated outfits yet, just dialing in the top first since that is what you’ll see the most, then I’ll pair it with the right pants/shorts. So if you are underwhelmed by the pants and shoes being the same I get that :)

Love this. It’s a solid yes because it’s a good cut, a good color, the embroidery detail is great, and it’s lightweight enough for summer, but still has good structure. The little princess sleeves are so flattering. I can’t tell if I need to size up as it’s pulling a bit in the chest area (wearing a size small), but I love it. The pants are the barrel pants that I LOVE right now (button-fly making them more flattering and the length is perfect). The shoes were from last year and I hadn’t worn them yet (from Beek which is spendy, but I love their shoes so much).

Another Sezane number that I thought would look good with white shorts (not these though). I love this top but my only beef with Sezane is that their fabric is often thick (which is great) but also long and with a straight hem, making them hard to 1/2 or even full tuck. This shirt is great on camera and has a lot of detail, but I wish it weren’t so thick so it could tuck better (and I have a short torso so if you have a longer torso you might not need to tuck).

I love this blouse – a lot of detail, but still simple and easy to understand on camera I.e. not busy). It’s lightweight, has covered buttons, and that sweet little collar. I guess it’s all out of stock in this color (sorry!) even though I just bought it! Boo!

10/10 I LOVE THIS and just ordered the dress version to see if it could work as well. This blouse is so pretty and flattering and the second I put it on I was like “Oh wow, this is so good”. Extremely airy/lightweight, the colors are so pretty, the neckline so flattering, easy to tuck, pretty sleeve details – just perfect. I tried it with these cute new shorts which I really love (and they come in a lot of colors) but I think I like it with the pants more.

I have this blouse in pink from last year which I love, but my only beef is that it’s really oversized intentionally. This is a small (I just ordered an XS to see if that would fit better). The pattern is so pretty and it’s so easy breezy to wear. Madewell did an almost exact knockoff of this shirt in white that is more affordable, but Doen has these pretty patterns.

LOVE THIS. I’m wearing this top on spring break a lot because no one does, “I still look nice, but I’m not sticky” like Emerson Fry. Such an easy cut to wear, so lightweight, with beautiful colors and patterns. LOVE.

Here is another one that is oversized (only comes in one size, actually) and I think a better summer shirt than for a photo shoot. Comes in a lot of colors and is so easy to wear. Love those shorts, A LOT.

I was excited about this, but I think it’s giving safari in a way that I probably don’t want for my BBQ shoot. I love that top though, a lot. It’s a bit thicker (think denim weight) and is easy to tuck (and comes in a couple of other colors).

This is a nice, sweet blouse, with cute denim shorts – no one is mad at this outfit, but maybe could be more fun?

I’ve been wearing this shirt a ton since I got it – thin, but not too thin, drapey denim with ruffles (that are holding up well after washing/drying a few times FYI). I want it in the short-sleeved version like the white one, too. Those Gap Bermuda shorts are SOLID.

I sent all of these to the client so we’ll see what they choose (and I have more to try on). However, if you are in the market for cute spring/summer blouses I really love all of these :)

I Travel 120+ Days Per Year—These Are the Rules Everyone Should Follow to Avoid Overpacking

Summer travel season is in full swing—and while jetting off to your dream destination is the fun part, the prep? Not so much. From squeezing in all your favorite fits to making sure your beauty essentials pass TSA, packing can feel like a full-time job. Whether you're a chronic over-packer (guilty!) or always getting flagged for rogue liquids, we’ve got insider tips to take the stress out of your suitcase. Enter Christina Zilber, founder of Jouer Cosmetics, globe-trotter extraordinaire, and packing pro who travels more than 120 days a year and has visited over 35 countries. While CZ calls Paris and Los Angeles "home," the jet-setter spends about four months out of the year traveling. In fact, her jet-setting lifestyle helped inspire her brand, Jouer's, mantra: "multitasking makeup that goes the distance." She has honed a signature approach to packing light—as in, she fits an entire getaway's worth of clothes and products into a single carry-on. Packing light, CZ says, "is about traveling with intention: emotional clarity, minimal baggage, and a thoughtful edit of what truly matters." Here, her rules for getting rid of unnecessary baggage. Christina Zilber, founder of Jouer Cosmetics, frequent flyer, and packing light expert 01 of 09 Pack Sample Packets Instead of Bottles On your next beauty shopping trip, make sure to grab some sample packets of skin and hair care. CZ packs shampoo and conditioner sample packets instead of bottles. "Sample packets don’t spill, they don’t weigh you down, and they won’t make your bag smell like a salon explosion," she explains. "Leave the full sizes at home and travel like a pro." 02 of 09 Limit Your Shoes to Four Pairs When you pack, choose no more than four pairs of shoes, CZ recommends. "Pack a walking shoe, sneaker, heel, sandal or boot. Four shoes. That’s the law—one for walking, one for sweating, one for dancing, and one for the weather," she says. 03 of 09 Skip Packing Cubes Skip packing cubes and lay clothes flat instead. "While packing cubes are cute, they take up precious real estate," CZ explains. "Flat and folded wins every time with less bulk, fewer wrinkles, and everything in plain sight." 04 of 09 Replace Hard Toiletry Cases With Soft Ones "Hard cases belong in overhead bins; not in your suitcase. Soft-sided toiletry bags mold to the corners and make packing a dream," she says. 05 of 09 Rewear Your Pants The fashion rule of thumb CZ swears by: Pack one bottom per day, and then swap tops and shoes at night. "Your pants don’t care if they’re worn twice," she says. "Change your top and the vibe to save pounds and pack like a smart stylist." 06 of 09 Start With Your Calendar—Not Your Closet This is key, CZ says; "Plan activities and outfits before packing." Packing actually starts with your calendar, not your closet. "Know what you’re doing and dress for it every day and every night." Doing so will cut down on a bunch of extra outfits that you won't even wear and add weight to your suitcase. 07 of 09 Choose a Neutral Color Palette When packing your fits, choose a simple, neutral color palette, CZ advises. "A limited palette means unlimited outfits because black, white, and denim go with everything and never look tired." 08 of 09 Pack Makeup Multitaskers Bring products that offer two-in-one benefits. "Pack multitaskers like cheek and lip sticks," CZ says. "A swipe of color that works on both lips and cheeks? That’s one product doing double duty and taking up half the space." 09 of 09 Curate Your Cosmetics "You don’t need your full glam arsenal on vacation," CZ says. "A lip oil, concealer, cheek and lip stick, hydration, and coverage in the lightest way possible will have you looking glowy and gorgeous."

7 Types of Nuts You Can Actually Grow Yourself (Yes, Really)

For some reason, many people don’t consider growing nuts—often because most nuts grow on trees, which require more time and space than fruits or veggies—but they’re still a great way to add life to your yard; depending on where you live, you might have a wide variety of options you haven't considered. With this in mind, we’ve rounded up some of the best nuts you can grow yourself. If you’re looking to plant more trees on your property and you want the added benefit of growing literal snacks at home, read on. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 01 of 07 Walnuts Walnut trees are large, deciduous trees that are absolutely beautiful—but they also require a lot of space, well-draining, fertile soil, and full sun. These are best harvested in the fall, when the nuts are ripe and their husks ripen enough to fall from the tree when shaken. The husks should be instantly removed, and be sure to wear protection as walnut oil is a natural irritant. USDA Zone: 4-9 Mature size: 50 to 80 ft. Taste: Earthy and slightly bitter in taste, with a creamy texture 02 of 07 Hazelnuts Hazelnut trees prefer cooler climates, and are native to eastern and central parts of the US and Canada. This is because they require a certain amount of time in colder temperatures in the winter to properly produce nuts. Harvest hazelnuts in the fall when the nuts fall easily from the trees. Look for yellow husks and either pick them directly from the branches or wait for them to drop on their own. USDA Zone: 4-8 Mature size: 10 to 15 ft. Taste: Sweet and buttery taste that caramelizes when toasted 03 of 07 Chestnuts Chestnut trees require ample space and the right balance of direct sunlight and acidic soil, but if you’re hoping to add a beautiful tree to your property, these are stunning when they reach maturity. It’s worth noting, though, that American chestnut trees can’t self-pollinate; this means that, for best nut production, you’ll need two different varieties. Wait until the chestnuts have fallen naturally, and wear gloves to collect any whose prickly husks have opened. USDA Zone: 4-8 Mature size: 40 to 60 ft. Taste: A unique, bitter taste when raw, but soft and buttery once roasted—often compared to a sweet potato 04 of 07 Pecans Pecan trees are actually native to the southern U.S., so if you’re in the right zone and your property is spacious enough to handle their size and equipped with enough sunlight and well-drained soil, you’re in luck. Collect the nuts from the ground once the green hulls have split and released them. USDA Zone: 6-9 Mature size: 70 to 100 ft. with some growing even taller Taste: Rich and buttery in taste with a slight sweetness 05 of 07 Almonds Almond trees do best in areas that have a Mediterranean climate—long, hot, and dry summers and mild, wet winters. But they also require frequent watering during dry periods and well-drained soil. The ripened hulls can be hand-picked or shaken from the tree, and the nuts should be removed and dried. USDA Zone: 5-9 Mature size: 10 to 25 ft. Taste: Sweet and slightly bitter, with a signature aroma that’s both fruity and floral 06 of 07 Macadamia Nuts Macadamia nuts prefer warmer climates, and they require sufficient watering—either through rainfall or irrigation. Hawaii is most known for growing macadamia nuts in the U.S., while parts of California and Florida can also offer the right conditions. Collect the nuts once they fall naturally to the ground. Then, remove the outer green husk and dry to prevent spoilage. USDA Zone: 9-11 Mature size: 30 to 50 ft. Taste: Rich in flavor, with a buttery texture and subtle sweetness 07 of 07 Peanuts Unlike the other options on this list, peanuts don’t grow on trees. Instead, they develop underground. This is because peanuts aren’t technically nuts; they’re legumes, closer in relation to peas and beans. Still, they’re making this list because their flavor profile keeps them more aligned with a nut, and depending on where you live, they might be a great addition to your garden. In late summer or early fall, when the leaves of your peanut plant start to yellow, dig up the plants, shake off any excess soil, and separate the pods. USDA Zone: 8-11 Mature size: one to two feet tall Taste: Peanuts are savory and earthy, with a bean-like flavor when eaten raw

Yellow Leaves on Your Begonias? 5 Things Gardeners Say You Should Check Right Now

Begonias are a favorite flower of both indoor and outdoor gardeners. Varieties like angel wing begonias and rex begonias make attractive houseplants thanks to their vividly patterned leaves, while wax begonias add cheer to garden beds with colorful blooms. But without the proper care and conditions, begonia leaves can turn yellow, signaling that something isn't right with your plant. The good news is that yellow leaves are your plant's way of communicating that something is wrong. The bad news is that several different factors could be the cause, so you'll need to do some investigating to address the problem. Here's why your begonia leaves may be turning yellow—and the first thing you should check to keep your plant looking healthy. Overwatering In general, the most likely cause of yellow begonia leaves is too much water due to either overwatering, poorly draining soils, or a container without adequate drainage. When your plant's soil remains soggy and saturated, its roots can't take up oxygen properly, leading to chlorosis, or yellowing leaves. Left untreated, overwatering can eventually result in root rot, which can seriously damage or even kill your plant. If your begonia has very wet, soggy soil or is planted in an area with poor drainage, that's likely the cause of its yellow leaves. Cut back on watering outdoor plants if possible. For container begonias, allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again. Going forward, check soil moisture regularly and only water once the top inch or so is dry. Consider repotting your plant in a potting mix that includes plenty of perlite for drainage, and ensure that the pot it's planted in has holes in the bottom. Avoid letting the plant sit in water in its cache pot or drip tray. Lack of Sunlight Begonias that don't receive sufficient sunlight may develop yellow leaves because they're not able to photosynthesize as much due to lack of light, which in turn creates similar conditions to overwatering, as plants use water as they turn sunlight into food. Indoors, begonias need bright, indirect light to thrive. Move container plants closer to the light source. Too Much Sunlight A begonia that's planted in a spot that gets an overabundance of harsh, direct sunlight can suffer from sunburn. The plant may develop pale brown spots on its leaves before slowly turning yellow and falling off. Move indoor or container begonias to a spot out of direct sun but with lots of indirect light. For in-ground plantings, consider installing shade cloth—and plan to seek out begonia varieties with a tolerance for full sun next season. Pest Problems Begonias can fall prey to common plant pests like mites, scale, whiteflies, and mealybugs, as well as slugs and snails when planted outdoors. Pest damage may appear as tiny yellow dots, or patches, or the edges of plant leaves may turn yellow and then brown. Examine your plant's leaves and stems closely for signs of pests, such as flat, oval-shaped brown bumps (scale insects), cottony masses (mealybugs), or sticky honeydew, which can be left behind by these sap-sucking insects as they feed. After quarantining your begonia from the rest of your collection, treat infested plants with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap to remove pests. Cut off any severely damaged leaves, bag them securely, and discard them in the trash to keep them from spreading. Monitor the plant closely and treat again if signs of pests return. Plant Diseases Some plant diseases can cause begonia leaves to turn yellow. Bacterial leaf spot can appear as yellow rings around water-soaked leaf areas, but it can be prevented by keeping the leaves as dry as possible during watering. Cut away damaged plant parts, bag them up, and throw them away—then sterilize your tools to keep from spreading the disease. Viruses can cause pale yellow rings or spots to form on begonia leaves as well. If you suspect a virus is the problem, remove, bag, and discard infected plants to prevent spread.

5 Trees You Should Never Plant Near Your Home, According to Arborists

There’s nothing like a well-placed tree to elevate your home’s curb appeal and provide shade, privacy, and structure to garden beds. However, some trees have invasive roots or weak limbs that are prone to breaking and commonly cause property damage when they’re planted near homes. In the guide below, you’ll discover the top five trees to avoid planting near homes and office buildings, and learn which trees to plant instead. Meet the Expert Alex Kasprzak is a certified arborist and owner of Elevated Tree Care tree removal and care services. Karen Manix is the co-owner of Walker Farm, a plant and tree nursery in Vermont. Kevin Cleveland is a certified arborist and the president of Tree Tech Inc. Willow Although they are visually stunning, it's not a great idea to plant a willow tree next to your home. “They have some of the most intrusive root systems, and their weak wood grain commonly causes branches to fail," says Alex Kasprzak of Elevated Tree Care. Their root systems mimic the look of their sprawling branches, and this can be a bad sign for any buildings planted nearby. “That root system can damage your home’s foundation, or roots may tunnel into septic systems in search of more water," says Karen Manix, co-owner of the Walker Farm plant and tree nursery. Alternative: River Birch or Weeping Beech Homeowners often choose willow trees due to their high water tolerance, but there are other water-loving trees to try. River birches, for instance, can handle wet areas, but their root systems are relatively shallow. Weeping beeches also have less aggressive roots and their trailing branches have all the charm of weeping willows. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Bradford Pear Bradford pears flower in spring and they’re commonly planted in gardens and along neighborhood streets. But these trees aren’t recommended by tree pros for proximity to buildings. “Bradford pears have poor branch structures, which makes them highly susceptible to limb failure,” says Kasprzak. “Their roots are mildly intrusive too.” Keeping Bradford pears away from your home can help you avoid some potential issues, but growing them at all can be tricky because they are considered invasive. Even when they’re planted in gardens, Bradford pear trees can escape into the wild and cause issues for native plants and wildlife. Avoiding these trees all together is the best way to limit their spread. Alternative: Serviceberry or Eastern Redbud Instead of growing invasive Bradford pears, look for native flowering trees like serviceberry or eastern redbud. These trees both provide food and shelter for native wildlife, and they look just as pretty as Bradford pears when they bloom in spring. Silver or Norway Maple Maple trees have a stunning disposition, and there's nothing more beautiful than watching their leaves turn in the fall. However, you have to be careful about which type you choose, lest you threaten your home with burrowing roots or falling branches. “Of the all members of the maple family, silver maples have the most intrusive roots,” warns Kasprzak. “They also have a fast growth rate that leads to weak branch attachments and increases the likelihood of fallen limbs.” Aside from silver maples, it’s also a good idea to avoid planting Norway maples. Like Bradford pears, Norway maples grow invasively in many areas and they can outcompete sugar maples and other native trees. Alternative: Red or Sugar Maple Red maples and sugar maples have a similar look to silver and Norway maples, but they pose fewer risks for homeowners. Not only are these trees native to North America, but red maples delight with fiery red autumn foliage and sugar maples are the best trees for maple sugaring. Ash Ash trees have a stately look and a dense canopy of leaves that supports an assortment of wildlife. But these trees are on the decline in many areas due to invasive emerald ash borers. These small, green beetles lay their eggs on ash tree bark and can cause even large trees to die in just a few years. “With the heavy infestation of emerald ash borers, it’s no longer advisable to plant ash trees,” says president of Tree Tech Inc. Kevin Cleveland. “If you do plant them, they’ll need immediate and consistent treatment to survive.” Alternative: Birch or Oak While emerald ash borers do a lot of damage, they generally aren’t interested in trees outside of the ash family. Birch and oak trees are usually safe from these voracious beetles, and have a similar look and feel to ash trees. Black Walnut Aside from willows and Bradford pears, Kasprzak had one last tree on his avoid list: black walnuts. “Branch failure is also common with these trees, and their roots are more invasive than most other deciduous trees,” says Kasprzak. Black walnut trees also release a toxic substance, known as juglone, into the soil, which keeps other plants from competing with black walnuts for space. Unfortunately, if juglone gets into your soil, it can make it hard to grow other ornamentals, and even interfere with the growth of edible crops like tomatoes. Alternative: Black Cherry or Staghorn Sumac The compound leaves of black cherries and staghorn sumacs have a similar look to black walnut tree leaves. However, these native plants don’t release juglone into the soil, and they attract finches and other wild birds.