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6 Reasons Why Your Tomatoes Grew Too Small This Year, and How to Fix It

Tomatoes are a great place to start if you're looking to grow your own produce, but that doesn't mean they're not without their own issues. Making it through the growing phase, having ducked and dodged blight, hornworms, blossom end rot, and all the other problems a tomato plant might run into can feel like a success of its own. Which is why it's extra disappointing when the fruit is just... small. Here are six reasons why your tomatoes are too small, and all the ways you can correct them for a bountiful harvest in the future. Extreme Drought or Heat Most varieties of tomato require full sun, but that doesn't mean they're necessarily fit for extreme conditions. Heat and drought are the number one reason why tomato fruits fall short of their expected size. It's important to keep an eye on soil moisture levels and keep plants well-watered with at least 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. The soil should never dry out; this will lead to quick wilting. Tomatoes don't typically flourish in temperatures above 85°F, but we also can't help where we live. If your local temperatures consistently rise above this, consider investing in a shade cloth, and increase watering to twice daily. Consider planting in a container, where the plants can be moved into the shade—or just out of harsh, direct sun—as needed. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Poor Pollination If pollinating by hand, this should occur at least every other day during the growing season. If you're relying on pollinators to get the job done, consider making your yard more pollinator-friendly: plant attractive plants, provide a source of water (not stagnant), and decrease potential predators like bats or pets. Too Many Fruits It's important to pick fruits as they ripen; leaving tomatoes on the vine can not only cause splitting and other damage to the fruit itself, but also increase the number of fruits a single plant has to put effort into growing and supporting. You'll know tomatoes are ready to pick when it is a vibrant shade of its expected color, has a shiny look, feels tender, and comes off the vine easily. Too Much Nitrogen An excess of nitrogen in the soil has been known to cause smaller fruits. If you're unsure about your soil composition, you can buy a DIY test kit to gain insight into what's happening below the surface. If nitrogen levels are too high, consider working in a lower nitrogen fertilizer to balance it out. Pests Pests cause stress on plants that divert their energy to healing and surviving, instead of thriving and producing delicious, juicy tomatoes. If you spotted some common tomato pests hanging around your plants as they grow, don't be surprised if your fruit comes out a bit small at the end of the season. Next year, keep a close eye on early warning signs to fight these infestations in their early stages. Watering by hand keeps you close to the plant on a regular basis and makes it easier to spot problems earlier. Plant Diseases The same goes for plant diseases as for pests. Know the early signs of what different common tomato diseases look like, and you'll be able to help your plant fight it off early.

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Gardening

Curling Tomato Leaves? 7 Causes and How to Fix It Before Your Harvest

Twisted or curled leaves on tomato plants can be caused by environmental stress, chemical exposure, or biological factors.1 While curling leaves do not necessarily kill the plant, determining the cause, or combination of reasons, as early as possible is crucial. First, take a close look at the tomato plants and observe the plants over a few days to see if there is any progression: How many leaves are curling, just a few or all the leaves on the plant? Are the curling leaves mainly old leaves, new growth, or both? In what direction do the leaves curl, upwards or downwards? Are other parts of the plant, including fruit, showing any symptoms? Here are seven reasons why your tomato plants are having trouble with curling leaves and what you can do to fix it. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 01 of 07 Problem: Planting Tomatoes Too Early Tomatoes can suffer from leaf curl if they have not been properly hardened off or were planted when the weather was still too cool. It usually starts with the lower leaves curling upwards, then rolling inwards lengthwise. The leaves also become thick and leathery, but typically remain green.1 How to Fix It: Make sure to plant tomatoes only when daytime temperatures consistently reach between 70 and 79°F, and nighttime temperatures are no lower than 61 to 65°F. 02 of 07 Problem: Heat, Drought, and Wind In extremely hot, dry, or windy weather, tomato leaves twist and curl upwards to protect themselves from further water loss.2 How to Fix It: If you live in a hot or warm climate, plant tomatoes in a location where they are sheltered from strong, drying winds and receive some late afternoon shade. Regardless of your climate, always keep tomato plants well-watered. Once outdoors, tomato plants will need at least an inch of water each week from rainfall or watering. Watering should be done slowly and deeply, so the plants form deep roots. Mulch around their base, so the soil stays evenly moist. 03 of 07 Problem: Nutrient Imbalance Tomatoes overfertilized with nitrogen may show upward curled leaves that are thicker and greener than usual and also lots of foliage instead of setting fruit. Low phosphorus might also lead to leaf curl.1 How to Fix It: Even though tomatoes are heavy feeders, fertilization must be balanced. After planting in well-nourished soil, tomato plants benefit from applying a balanced 5-10-5 NPK fertilizer a few times throughout the growing season. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen (the first number), or you'll have many bright green leaves and fewer tomatoes.3 The only reliable way to determine the nutrient content in the soil and find out how to remedy the imbalance is a soil test. Ask Your Extension Office Need a soil kit to determine your nutrient content? Call your local Extension Office, which advises on agriculture, pest control, and gardening; they should sell soil kits. 04 of 07 Problem: Herbicide Drift Tomato plants are susceptible to herbicide damage. If the tomato leaves are curling downwards and growing twisted, they might have been exposed to drifting herbicides—not necessarily from your use, but it could also be from neighbors. When spraying glyphosate or 2,4-D, dicamba, and other hormone-type herbicides, even a wind speed of five miles per hour can lead to herbicide drift.2 How to Fix It: Once the herbicide drift has occurred, there is nothing to be done. Depending on the severity of the herbicide damage, the plant may recover, and the new growth may look normal. Or, the new growth may continue to show herbicide damage which, in addition to curling leaves, might include white and splitting stems and deformed fruit. If this is the case, you will, unfortunately, have to pull the plants and re-plant.4 05 of 07 Problem: Herbicide Residue in Mulch and Compost If you use mulch or compost from a third-party source and the leaves of your tomato plants become cupped or in any other way distorted, the reason might be residue from herbicides such as aminopyralid or clopyralid, the active ingredients in weed killers used by farmers.5 These chemicals remain on treated hay and hay products, grass clippings, manure, and compost for many months. Cows and horses feed on that hay and then pass it on via the manure. How to Fix It: To prevent this, make sure to get manure or compost only from reliable sources that don’t use these herbicides. Or, get manure from sources that use chicken manure, which does not have this problem. 06 of 07 Problem: Tomato Viruses If a virus causes curling tomato leaves, pinpointing it is rather tricky as numerous viruses can cause tomato leaf curling and stunted growth. The additional symptoms vary in each virus, and the transmission method differs. Two common viruses that cause tomato leaf curl are tomato yellow leaf curl virus and tomato mosaic virus.6 Whiteflies transmit tomato yellow leaf curl virus. New leaves become cupped and turn pale green, the leaf edges turn yellow, and the undersides of the leaves may turn purplish. The plant's entire growth is stunted, and fruit production is poor. Tomato mosaic virus is transmitted from seed, grafting, human handling, and tobacco products. In addition to curling, the leaves become mottled, new leaflets are small and infected fruit is brown inside. The virus is a concern throughout the growing season. How to Fix It: To reduce the whitefly feeding that causes tomato yellow leaf curl virus, use reflective mulches (aluminum or silver-colored) between rows. To repel whiteflies and reduce feeding, mix a solution of 0.25 to 0.5% oil spray (2 to 4 teaspoons of horticultural or canola oil with a few drops of dish soap per gallon of water) and apply weekly. Remove plants and bag them for disposal at the end of the growing season. Consider rotating crops the next growing season. Because tomatoes are in the same plant family as tobacco (nightshades), tobacco users and smoke can transmit a mosaic virus to their tomato plants by touching them. Don’t allow smoking near your garden, and wash your hands or glove them before tending tomatoes. A vital step to prevent your plants from getting infected is to keep your garden weed-free because weeds are often host plants for insects that then transmit a virus to your tomato plants.7 07 of 07 Problem: Broad Mites When broad mites feed on young tomato leaves and flowers, they inject toxins into the plant that causes the leaves to twist and become distorted severely.8 The mites are so tiny that they cannot be detected with the naked eye or even a magnifying glass; only the damage will indicate their presence. If the infestation is severe, the underside of leaves and fruit might also turn bronze or russet in color. How to Fix It: Broad mites may come from infested greenhouse plants, so buy only plants from reliable suppliers. You can use a sulfur-based miticide to combat a moderate broad mite infestation. Read the label instructions carefully, as some tomato cultivars cannot tolerate treatment with sulfur.9 Organic alternatives to miticides are horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps. If the damage is severe, pull up the plants and dispose of them.

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Gardening

Should You Prune Cucumber Plants? 3 Tips For Success

Cucumbers grow on vines and, like most vines, they grow rapidly and prolifically. When several plants are grown together vines can quickly become tangled, overgrown, and difficult to maintain. Trellising your cucumber crop and pruning each plant to just one or two vines directs energy into producing fruit rather than making more vines. Should You Prune Cucumber Plants? Pruning cucumber vines is a personal choice. If you only grow one cucumber plant, pruning probably isn't necessary. However, reducing the number of vines on multiple plants improves the vigor of each plant. Fewer vines mean better air circulation, and that translates to less opportunity for fungal diseases like powdery mildew and bacterial wilt. Overcrowded vines also provide plenty of hiding places for insect pests like cucumber beetles, which carry disease and damage foliage and fruits. Reducing the number of vines can reduce the number of fruits, but will greatly improve quality. Since cucumbers are generally prolific, your harvest will most likely be plentiful whether or not you decide to prune. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Prune Cucumber Plants Pruning cucumber vines is much like pruning tomatoes. At the junction where each leaf meets a primary vine, there is also a flower that eventually becomes a fruit, a tendril that attaches to a support structure, and a new growth point, commonly called a sucker. Suckers grow into secondary vines which produce more suckers that become tertiary vines and so on. Follow these steps to prune your cucumber vines: Locate the point where a large leaf meets a primary vine. These large leaves are called "sun leaves." They help protect the fruits against sunscald and are the primary foliage needed for photosynthesis. Identify the new growth point. You want to leave the sun leaf, flower or fruit, and tendril at each juncture along the primary vine but prune out the sucker. Pinch out the sucker with your thumb and index finger when it's under 2 inches long. A hand pruner will take care of longer suckers with thicker stems. Each plant can be pruned to the number of primary vines of your choice. A trellised two-vine system produces good results. When to Prune Cucumber Plants To work with one or two primary vines, start pruning your cucumber vines early in the season. A week or two after plants have established, they start to send out sun leaves and tendrils. As soon as you see new leaves start checking for suckers at the juncture of the sun leaf and primary vine. You'll need to continue to pinch out suckers throughout the cucumber growing season which runs through June and into mid-July depending on your growing zone. Don't panic if you miss a few days. Just start from the top of your vine and work your way down, removing suckers as you go. Tips For Cucumber Plant Pruning Whether you grow one plant or several, pinching out the earliest flowers helps get your vines off to a good start. Only pinch the first few flowers that appear early in the season and remember that every flower can potentially become a fruit. If you want to establish a two- or three-vine system for your plant, start pruning early. For a two-vine system, allow the first sucker that appears on the primary vine to grow. For a three-vine system, let the first two suckers on your primary vine continue to grow. Keep in mind you will then need to remove suckers from two or three primary vines for the remainder of the growing season. Growing your cucumber vines on a fence, trellis, or other structure gives you easy access for pruning and maintenance.

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Gardening

Don’t Let a Wilting Tomato Plant Ruin Your Harvest—Here’s How to Save It Fast

Tomato plants are the most commonly grown vegetable in the garden because they thrive in summer temperatures and produce delicious fresh produce.1 Novice and experienced gardeners carefully plant and tend the tomato plants, only to discover the plants wilting and dying one day. The cause can be something as simple as a lack of water or more complex, like fungal wilt diseases, tomato wilt viruses, walnut toxicity, or boring insects. When you discover a wilting tomato plant, it's important to act quickly and decisively to protect your other tomato plants. Follow our guide on the causes of wilting tomatoes and suggested fixes. Lack of Water Healthy tomato plants planted in garden soil require approximately one inch of water per week, and container-grown plants require approximately one gallon of water daily. A lack of water will cause the tomato plants to wilt, but if that is the only cause, they will revive rapidly after watering. Solution: Regularly apply water directly to the soil with a garden or soaker hose. To maintain a consistent level of moisture stick your finger into the soil at the base of the plant. If the soil is moist at a depth of two inches, don’t water but check the soil again the next day. If the soil is dry to the touch at a depth of two inches, slowly apply water to the plants so the water seeps into the soil. If you must use an overhead sprinkler, water in the morning so the foliage dries quickly to help prevent disease. Fungal Wilt Diseases Striking without warning, verticillium and fusarium wilt are two common causes of a seemingly healthy tomato plant wilting and dying within a few days. Both diseases are caused by fungal spores in the garden soil. The spores enter the plant through the root system and block the movement of water and nutrients. This causes the plant to wilt, turn yellow, and die. Other fungal diseases, early tomato blight and southern blight may not kill the plants but will greatly inhibit their fruit production. Solution: Unfortunately there is no treatment for fungal wilt diseases. The infected tomato plants should be removed and discarded. Do not place the diseased plants in your compost pile to help prevent the spread of the fungi. To help ensure healthy plants in the garden, rotate crops and do not plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, or potato plants in the same location every year. Since the fungi can live for several years, consider container-grown tomatoes for several years. You can also select tomato varieties that are resistant to fungal wilts. Look for plants labeled with 'VF' on the plant tag. Tomato Wilt Viruses Dozens of tomato viruses can cause tomato plants to wilt and die.2 Two of the most common are Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV) and Tomato Mosaic Virus (ToMV), which cause stunted growth, wilting, and unattractive fruit. The source of the virus can be other plants, seeds, or insects. The virus can be spread from one infected plant to others through your hands, gloves, or tools. Solution: There is no treatment for these viruses, and the plants should be removed and discarded to help prevent the spread of the virus. Look for virus-resistant varieties, rotate crops regularly, and wash your hands and garden tools after handling infected plants to help prevent the spread. Black Walnut Toxicity Black walnut trees and tomatoes do not belong together. All parts of the tree exude juglone, a toxin that causes stunted growth, wilting foliage, and death for tomato plants. Since the greatest concentration of juglone exists nearest the tree, plant tomatoes at least 20 to 25 feet away from the tree's dripline. Solution: Unfortunately, juglone cannot be eliminated from the soil and once tomatoes are affected, there is no treatment to save them. Removing the tree will not solve the problem because juglone can be found in the root system after the tree is cut down. If your gardening space is limited, consider container-grown tomatoes. Boring Insects The stalk borer is a purple and cream-striped caterpillar that can attack tomato plants and cause wilting and death of the plant. The caterpillar bores into the stem through a tiny hole and tunnels inside the plant destroying tissue. Solution: Once the borer has done its damage, the tomato plant should be removed and destroyed. There are no insecticides that will control the larva of this inconspicuous grayish-brown moth. To help prevent borers, keep weedy areas around the garden mowed well. How to Help Prevent Tomato Wilting Maintain a steady watering routine. Monitor weather conditions and provide one to two inches of water per week to the roots of the tomato plant. Do not allow the soil to become overly dry or overwater so the roots are left soggy. Provide adequate spacing between plants. Plant so that there is space between each tomato plant for air to flow freely to help prevent air-borne diseases. Practice crop rotation. Do not plant tomatoes in the same locations year after year. Rotate crops to allow soil-borne diseases to die. Maintain an orderly garden. Remove weeds that can attract harmful insects and spread diseases. Mulch to help maintain soil moisture. Cage or stake tomato plants to keep the fruit off the ground to limit disease spread. Buy disease-resistant seeds or transplants. Read seed packets, catalogs, and plant tags carefully to select disease-resistant tomato varieties. Cornell University maintains an excellent list to help you with plant selection.

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Gardening

How Many Cucumbers Should My Plant Grow? Plus Tips for Boosting Your Yield

Cucumbers are one of the easiest plants you can grow in your summer garden, but just how many cucumbers you can expect to harvest from a single plant depends on several different factors. Some of it depends on a gardener's level of experience. The weather, cucumber variety, and whether or not the cucumber plant is trellised properly can also impact the number of fruits it will produce in a season. Want to boost your cucumber yield? Follow these guidelines to get the most out of your cucumber plants this summer. What Determines the Number of Cucumbers Per Plant? A cucumber plant can produce more cucumbers during the growing season than you might expect. Depending on the variety and growing conditions, a healthy cucumber plant can yield anywhere between 15 and 30 cucumbers during its lifetime. Varietal Differences There are more than 100 known varieties of cucumbers, which come in all shapes and sizes and fall into one of three categories: Monoecious Cucumbers These open-pollinated cucumber varieties produce both male and female flowers, which need to be pollinated by a pollinator such as bees. For every female flower grown on a monoecious cucumber plant, 10 to 20 male flowers will grow. If pollination doesn't occur, the female flower will drop off the plant and the cucumber fruit will not grow. Gynoecious Cucumbers These cucumber varieties grow all female flowers, increasing the chance for a high yield of cucumbers. These cucumber plants tend to fruit earlier. However, if not planted alongside a variety with male flowers, the female flowers may not all get pollinated, and therefore may not generate fruit. Parthenocarpic Cucumbers The most productive type of cucumber falls into the parthenocarpic cucumber category. These types of cucumbers don't require pollination in order to produce fruit, allowing the plant to be more productive. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Proper Nutrients Cucumbers are heavy feeders, meaning you need to water the plants frequently and fertilize them during the growing season to maximize harvest. To ensure your cucumber plants have all the nutrients they need, it's best to feed them weekly as soon as they start to produce flowers. To get your cucumber plant to produce more flowers, apply a phosphorus-rich fertilizer. As soon as fruit begins to form, make sure you're watering consistently. Regular Harvesting Frequent picking is essential for prolonging your cucumber harvest. When producing fruit, a plant's goal is to successfully reproduce. The more regularly you harvest the mature fruit, the longer the plant will continue producing flowers and growing new fruits. Gardening Mistakes That Result in Fewer Cucumbers These are the most common mistakes gardeners make when growing cucumbers than can affect the number of fruits a plant produces. You're planting cucumbers in the wrong spot. Cucumber plants need space to vine out and sprawl. If you're planting them in a compact space, they won't have the room to grow large enough to produce flowers and fruit. Cucumbers do best when they have a trellis to climb up. There's not enough sun. Cucumber plants need a lot of sun to thrive—at least eight hours per day. You neglect the soil health. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and need well-drained soil that is rich in nutrients. Boost your soil health by mixing compost into it. There aren't enough pollinators. Most cucumber varieties rely on pollinators such as bees to pollinate female flowers. To help this happen, add pollinator-friendly plants to attract these helpful insects to your garden. How to Maximize Your Cucumber Yield To get more cucumbers out of your crop, be sure your plant has the right nutrients from the start. Add compost to the soil and feed the plants with fertilizer when the cucumber plants begin to produce flowers. When planting your cucumber plants, select a spot that gets at least eight hours of direct sunlight. Once they start produce fruits, pick the cucumbers regularly and frequently. The more often you harvest fruit, the longer the harvest will last. To ensure they stay healthy, monitor your plants for signs of insect damage or disease and treat as soon as possible. The healthier the plant, the higher its yield will be.

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Gardening

Should You Use Epsom Salt for Tomatoes? Experts Share the Dos and Don'ts

Epsom salt, chemically known as magnesium sulfate, is often touted as a beneficial supplement for tomato plants. The magnesium and sulfur found in Epsom salt are essential nutrients that support healthy plant growth and fruit development. However, opinions on its efficacy vary among gardening experts. Here's how and when to use Epsom salt to benefit your tomato plants. How Epsom Salt Benefits Tomatoes The general consensus is that, when used appropriately, Epsom salt can be beneficial, but it is not a cure-all solution for all tomato-growing issues. Used in the right ratio, it has been beneficial for palm trees and other plants that need a lot of magnesium. If your soil needs magnesium, then adding Epsom salts may be a helpful treatment. Of course, a proper soil assessment will be the final say on that, but if your tomato plants need some magnesium, here are ways Epsom salts can benefit them. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Improves Chlorophyll Production Magnesium is a crucial component of chlorophyll, the compound plants use in photosynthesis. By providing additional magnesium to your plants, Epsom salt can help prevent yellow leaves, leading to healthier, greener foliage and better overall plants. Enhances Nutrient Uptake Epsom salt can improve the plant's ability to absorb other essential nutrients from the soil, such as nitrogen and phosphorus. This enhanced nutrient uptake is particularly important during critical growth stages, such as flowering and fruit set, ensuring that tomato plants get the nutrients they need for robust growth and abundant fruit production. Prevents Blossom End Rot Unfortunately, there are mixed opinions about whether Epsom salt is an effective treatment for blossom end rot prevention. While some might call it a miracle treatment, some experts say it can do more harm than good. Tom Kalb, extension horticulturist at North Dakota State University wrote that Epsom salt doesn’t help prevent blossom end rot. Rather, it leads to more of it. “Blossom end rot is caused by a deficiency of calcium. Epsom salt contains magnesium sulfate—no calcium at all,” he wrote. “Adding Epsom salt to the soil may create more rot since magnesium and calcium ions compete for uptake into the plant.” David Austin, residential horticulture agent and master gardener coordinator in Highlands County, Florida, agrees. “Epsom salt will not increase plant growth better than other forms of available magnesium,” he wrote for the University of Florida's IFAS Extension. “Of course, if your plants are deficient in magnesium, they will grow more vigorously with its addition.” How to Use Epsom Salt on Your Tomato Plants If you decide that your soil needs magnesium and want to add Epsom salt to your tomato plants, here’s how you can do it. Before starting, gather the following supplies: Epsom salt, a measuring spoon, water, a watering can or spray bottle, and optionally, a soil test kit. Do a soil test: Conduct a soil test to check the magnesium levels in your soil. This will help determine if your soil actually needs additional magnesium. Dissolve Epsom salt: Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of water. Stir until the salt is completely dissolved. Apply to soil: Water the tomato plants with the Epsom salt solution at the base of each plant. This method ensures the roots can absorb the nutrients effectively. Foliar spray: For faster absorption, you can also use a foliar spray. Fill a spray bottle with the Epsom salt solution and spray the leaves of the tomato plants. This method is particularly useful if you notice signs of magnesium deficiency in the foliage. Repeat as needed: Apply the Epsom salt solution every two to four weeks, depending on your soil test results and the specific needs of your tomato plants.

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Gardening

How Often Should You Water Strawberries? What You Should Do for the Juiciest Fruits

Strawberries should be watered anytime the top inches of soil are dry. Water strawberries in the morning for best results. If leaves are discolored, fruits are not as flavorful, or growth is odd, check if you are over or underwatering your plant. The importance of properly watering strawberries cannot be overstated—without proper irrigation, you won’t be able to harvest the juicy fruit that makes growing your own strawberries a worthwhile effort. Strawberries have shallow root systems. This makes them especially sensitive to water deficit and a water-stressed plant can’t produce the juicy berries you are craving. Overwatering strawberries also backfires and causes problems such as rotting. Here is what you need to know about how much to water strawberries and when. How Often to Water Strawberries Water newly planted strawberries thoroughly immediately after planting and then daily for the first week after planting. In the second week after planting, switch to an every other day schedule, unless the weather is very hot and dry. As the plants get established, transition to a weekly watering schedule. During the active growing season between spring and fall, strawberries need at least 1 inch of water per week, or often enough to keep the top layer of soil moist. As it depends on different factors how often strawberries need water, the watering frequency ranges between daily to once or twice a week (less if there is abundant rainfall). Strawberries need the most water during the fruit production stage and up the harvest. If there is no abundant rainfall during harvest time, that’s the time when you need to water strawberry plants the most often. As soon as you see flowers form, start monitoring the soil moisture closely. Because container plants dry out much faster than strawberries planted in garden soil, potted strawberries need to be watered more often. Check the soil moisture level every morning and water the strawberries once or twice daily, depending on the weather and how fast the soil dries out. The smaller the pot, the more often you need to water. When to Water Strawberries While there is no hard-and-fast rule about how often you need to water strawberries, the best time of the day to water them is in the morning. Watering them early in the day prepares them for a hot day in the sun and it’s much better than at night when foliage takes much longer to dry, with the inherent risk of fungal diseases spreading. However, during a heat wave this should not deter you from watering the plants again in the evening if the soil is dry. Insert a finger in the soil—if the top inches feel dry, the plants should be watered no matter what time of the day it is. How to Water Strawberries The best method to water strawberries in garden soil is drip irrigation or a soaker hose. It not only saves water, but also keeps the foliage and fruit dry. Place the system so that it gets the soil around the plants wet but leave some distance to the growing berries. Water container-grown strawberries with a watering can, taking care not to get the leaves wet. No matter which watering method to use, water enough so that the soil is slightly damp but not dry or soggy. Signs of Overwatering Overwatering strawberries is not only wasteful, but it also has detrimental effects on the strawberries. These include: Root rot, a fungal infection that occurs in wet soil with poor drainage. Wilting of the plants, indicating oversaturated soil that lacks air pockets with oxygen. Brown or yellow leaves, especially at the tips of the leaves. Slow overall growth. Diluted flavor.1 If you have overwatered your strawberries, let them dry out before restarting a more conservative watering routine. Signs of Underwatering Typically, older strawberry plants are more prone to show signs of underwatering than young plants because they are less able to retain water. The following are typical indicators for underwatered plants: Dry, crisp leaves. Smaller leaves than those of properly watered strawberries. Less growth with fewer runners, crowns, and leaves. Fewer flowers, resulting in fewer and smaller fruits. Water your plants thoroughly and adjust your watering routine to avoid repeated water depravation, which weakens the plant further.

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Gardening

How Far Apart Should You Plant Tomatoes in Your Garden?

Know what kind of tomato plant you're sowing—determinate tomatoes need less space than indeterminate varieties. Determinate tomato varieties do better in containers or raised beds because they do not need as much space. Proper spacing of tomato plants protects from potential diseases and set plants up to fruit more. Whether you start your tomatoes from seed or buy tomato seedlings, keep in mind while you plant them that proper spacing is essential for successful growing. As a rule of thumb, allow 2 to 3 feet of space in all directions for each plant, though the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you're planting.1 Read on to learn about properly spacing determinate vs. indeterminate tomatoes, the pitfalls of insufficient spacing, and other tomato growing tips. Spacing Determinate vs. Indeterminate Tomatoes Before planting, check the seed package or the plant label, which should tell you if the tomato variety is determinate or indeterminate. Both tomato types are vines, but determinate tomatoes require less space than indeterminate tomatoes so the exact spacing depends on what type of tomato you are planting. Tomato spacing is usually given in two measurements: space between plants and space between rows. Determinate Tomatoes Determinate tomatoes grow only to a certain height, then flower, set fruit, and ripen within a short timeframe. They can be planted as little as one to two feet apart (though ideally in the 18-14 inches range) in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. The plants are often compact enough that they don’t require support. Because of their limited growth, they also don’t need pruning. Indeterminate Tomatoes Indeterminate tomatoes are the exact opposite—they have a long growing season that only ends with the first fall frost. They need a much more generous spacing than determinate tomatoes and should be spaced at least three to four feet apart in rows at least four feet apart. Indeterminate tomatoes should always be staked, trellised, or caged. Pruning the plants is also essential to keep the vigorous growth under control. Why It's Important to Space Tomatoes Properly Proper spacing between plants is important to keep tomato plants healthy. Even with the best care, these plants are prone to numerous diseases including fungal diseases (like early blight and late blight) and viruses (like tomato mosaic virus). Plants growing in crowded conditions with poor air circulation are an ideal breeding ground for fungal diseases to spread. Generous spacing between tomato plants is also important to give you easy access for pruning, weeding, and harvesting without the risk of damaging neighboring plants. Signs Tomatoes Are Planted Too Close Together Unfortunately, not giving your tomato plants sufficient space will backfire sooner or later in the growing season. You'll know that you skimped on spaced if these symptoms are true of your plants. Poor harvest. The plants are growing slowly or producing a poor harvest because they are competing for nutrients and water. No visual borders. You cannot tell where one plant ends, and the next one starts because the vines have become entangled. Soggy foliage. The foliage remains wet for hours after rainfall even in warm summer weather because there is inadequate airflow. Difficulty harvesting. Harvesting the tomatoes is tedious because you cannot easily access the plants from all sides. Additional Tomato Growing Tips To make your tomato season a success, here are some other key tips for growing delicious tomatoes: Plant them in full sun where they get at least six to eight hours daily. Get the soil ready for planting with soil amendments and compost. Also, check if the pH is on target (between 6.2 and 6.8).2 Fertilize them every two weeks during the growing season. Make sure to water the plants deeply and regularly at the base. Harvest them at the right time. Not all tomatoes are red when they are ripe so know the checklist of signs to look for.

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Gardening

It’s Not Too Late—6 Fast-Growing Crops You Can Still Plant in Late July

For gardeners, spring is all about planting seeds and starts to give summer crops ample time to reach maturity. But planting doesn't have to end just because summer is in full swing. In fact, there are plenty of quick-growing crops you can plant in July that will mature in time for a fall or even late summer harvest. Some of these plants, like greens, simply grow quickly, especially with summer's warm temperatures and abundant sunlight, while others are bred to be "early" varieties that mature quickly. Whether you've already harvested spring or early summer crops and want to plant something in their place or simply got a late start on gardening this year, you can still plant in July to enjoy a harvest later in the season. Here are 6 fast-growing crops to consider for high summer planting in your garden. Beans Both pole beans and bush beans can be planted in July for a late summer or early fall harvest. Plant seed in a garden bed with full sun and loamy, moist, well-drained soil. Keep the soil evenly moist as the plants grow, and be sure to provide pole varieties with stakes, a trellis, or other support for them to climb. Pick the beans when their pods are flat and tender to eat them as green beans, allow them to size up in the pod for fresh shell beans, or let them dry on the vine and harvest them at the end of the season to use them as dry beans. Radishes Fast-growing radishes are an ideal addition to your vegetable garden starting in mid-July. Radishes require six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day and rich, well-drained soil to thrive. Many small varieties are ready to harvest in about a month from planting the seed. Plant again every two weeks through September to extend your radish harvest into fall. Kale Kale, collards, and other brassicas are ideal to seed in late July or early August for an abundant crop of greens in fall. Seed kale in the ground or in a container in a spot that receives rich, well-drained soil and full to part sun. Plants take roughly three months from seeding to mature and are ready to pick once they're about 12 inches tall. However, you can harvest tender leaves as baby kale to use in salads or cooking in as little as 20 to 30 days. Carrots Carrots take longer to mature than some of the fast-growing vegetables on this list, but July isn't too late to plant seed for a late summer or early fall crop. Direct seed carrots in the ground or in a container at least 12 inches deep. Choose a spot with full sun and rich, well-drained soil, or amend the site with compost before planting. Water consistently to keep carrots from splitting or cracking. Some carrot varieties can be ready to harvest in about 50 days, while others take 75 days to mature. Waiting until after your region's first frost can help your carrots taste sweeter. Beets Another fast-growing root vegetable, beets are ideal to seed in July for a late summer or early fall crop. Their seeds can germinate in hot summer temperatures up to 90°F, and the plants are also frost-tolerant. Plant beet seeds in a spot that has moist, well-drained soil and gets full to part sun (though they'll grow best with at least six hours of direct sunlight per day). If you're not a fan of the earthy flavor of red beets, consider planting golden or Chioggia varieties, which taste milder. Cover Crops While it doesn't result in an edible harvest, July could be a great time to plant a cover crop. Cover crops, also called green manure, are plants like legumes, grasses, and some brassicas that are grown before, after, or between vegetable crops to add nutrition, keep weeds down, and support overall soil health. Cover crops like legumes are often planted in spring, but quick-growing grasses like winter rye, winter wheat, annual ryegrass, and oats can be planted in midsummer or late summer after you harvest vegetables. You can let grasses planted as cover crops grow for at least one month before turning over the bed to terminate the crop. Another option is to allow the cover crop to overwinter, then turn it in before planting the following spring. However, it's important to terminate the crop before it goes to seed.

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Gardening

Should You Really Use Coffee Grounds for Tomato Plants? What to Know

Tomato plants are the most popular vegetable grown in the home garden, so all we want is for them to thrive and produce a bountiful harvest.1 There are several ways to support tomatoes as they grow, but could coffee grounds be the secret ingredient to growing tomato plants successfully? The answer is no, but if composted properly, it won't hurt the plants. We share everything you need to know about using coffee grounds for tomato plants in the garden. Why Coffee Grounds Can Work for Tomatoes Coffee grounds contain nitrogen (about two percent) and trace amounts of phosphorus and potassium necessary for plant growth. But, scattering coffee grounds on the top of the soil or even working it in slightly is not effective. The caffeine residues in the used coffee grounds can actually suppress germination and slow the growth of some plants. The grounds don't release their beneficial components until organisms in the soil break them down—that can take months in a compost pile. The best way to use coffee grounds for tomato plants is to add them to your compost pile of leaves, grass clippings, and vegetable trimmings. Turn the compost pile often, and then use the organically rich mixture to enrich the garden or container soil before you add the tomato plants. Should You Use Coffee Grounds to Fertilize Tomatoes? Coffee grounds should not be used as the sole fertilizer for tomato plants. The grounds do not contain the nutrient balance that tomatoes need to thrive, and adding too many grounds will affect the soil's pH. Tomato plants can tolerate slightly acid soils, as low as pH 5.5. But plants are the healthiest and most productive when the soil pH is 6.0 to 6.8. Suppose you use organically rich soil (that can contain some composted coffee grounds). In that case, you may not need to add a great deal of fertilizer when planting tomatoes or throughout the growing season. Benefits of Traditional Fertilizer vs. Coffee Grounds Coffee grounds contain just two percent nitrogen and mere traces of phosphorus and potassium, and it takes weeks or months for the grounds to break down enough to release these nutrients into the soil. Most tomato plants benefit from the application of a balanced NPK fertilizer a few times throughout the growing season. Avoid using a fertilizer that is high in nitrogen (N), as you will get excessive leaf formation and less fruit. Appropriate levels of potassium and phosphorus have positive effects on fruit sugar and acid content. Proper fertilization also produced tomatoes with more health-promoting carotenoids and red lycopene beneficial to human nutrition. Adequate plant nutrition is important in producing tasty tomatoes with better flavor and appearance.

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