gardening

Gardening

7 Types of Nuts You Can Actually Grow Yourself (Yes, Really)

For some reason, many people don’t consider growing nuts—often because most nuts grow on trees, which require more time and space than fruits or veggies—but they’re still a great way to add life to your yard; depending on where you live, you might have a wide variety of options you haven't considered. With this in mind, we’ve rounded up some of the best nuts you can grow yourself. If you’re looking to plant more trees on your property and you want the added benefit of growing literal snacks at home, read on. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 01 of 07 Walnuts Walnut trees are large, deciduous trees that are absolutely beautiful—but they also require a lot of space, well-draining, fertile soil, and full sun. These are best harvested in the fall, when the nuts are ripe and their husks ripen enough to fall from the tree when shaken. The husks should be instantly removed, and be sure to wear protection as walnut oil is a natural irritant. USDA Zone: 4-9 Mature size: 50 to 80 ft. Taste: Earthy and slightly bitter in taste, with a creamy texture 02 of 07 Hazelnuts Hazelnut trees prefer cooler climates, and are native to eastern and central parts of the US and Canada. This is because they require a certain amount of time in colder temperatures in the winter to properly produce nuts. Harvest hazelnuts in the fall when the nuts fall easily from the trees. Look for yellow husks and either pick them directly from the branches or wait for them to drop on their own. USDA Zone: 4-8 Mature size: 10 to 15 ft. Taste: Sweet and buttery taste that caramelizes when toasted 03 of 07 Chestnuts Chestnut trees require ample space and the right balance of direct sunlight and acidic soil, but if you’re hoping to add a beautiful tree to your property, these are stunning when they reach maturity. It’s worth noting, though, that American chestnut trees can’t self-pollinate; this means that, for best nut production, you’ll need two different varieties. Wait until the chestnuts have fallen naturally, and wear gloves to collect any whose prickly husks have opened. USDA Zone: 4-8 Mature size: 40 to 60 ft. Taste: A unique, bitter taste when raw, but soft and buttery once roasted—often compared to a sweet potato 04 of 07 Pecans Pecan trees are actually native to the southern U.S., so if you’re in the right zone and your property is spacious enough to handle their size and equipped with enough sunlight and well-drained soil, you’re in luck. Collect the nuts from the ground once the green hulls have split and released them. USDA Zone: 6-9 Mature size: 70 to 100 ft. with some growing even taller Taste: Rich and buttery in taste with a slight sweetness 05 of 07 Almonds Almond trees do best in areas that have a Mediterranean climate—long, hot, and dry summers and mild, wet winters. But they also require frequent watering during dry periods and well-drained soil. The ripened hulls can be hand-picked or shaken from the tree, and the nuts should be removed and dried. USDA Zone: 5-9 Mature size: 10 to 25 ft. Taste: Sweet and slightly bitter, with a signature aroma that’s both fruity and floral 06 of 07 Macadamia Nuts Macadamia nuts prefer warmer climates, and they require sufficient watering—either through rainfall or irrigation. Hawaii is most known for growing macadamia nuts in the U.S., while parts of California and Florida can also offer the right conditions. Collect the nuts once they fall naturally to the ground. Then, remove the outer green husk and dry to prevent spoilage. USDA Zone: 9-11 Mature size: 30 to 50 ft. Taste: Rich in flavor, with a buttery texture and subtle sweetness 07 of 07 Peanuts Unlike the other options on this list, peanuts don’t grow on trees. Instead, they develop underground. This is because peanuts aren’t technically nuts; they’re legumes, closer in relation to peas and beans. Still, they’re making this list because their flavor profile keeps them more aligned with a nut, and depending on where you live, they might be a great addition to your garden. In late summer or early fall, when the leaves of your peanut plant start to yellow, dig up the plants, shake off any excess soil, and separate the pods. USDA Zone: 8-11 Mature size: one to two feet tall Taste: Peanuts are savory and earthy, with a bean-like flavor when eaten raw

Gardening

Japanese Aralia Is the Quirky Bloom You Should Add to Your Garden Now — How to Care For It

Japanese aralia, also called paper plant or Formosa rice tree, is a broadleaf evergreen shrub that can be planted or grown in a container in temperate gardens or kept as a houseplant. With foliage that hints at a tropical location and striking blooms, it is a plant you'll enjoy year-round. Japanese Aralia Care As an evergreen garden shrub or small tree, Japanese aralia has a rounded, spreading form and can reach up to 19 feet tall. The dark green leaves have a palmate form and make long-lasting foliage for flower arrangement. White or cream flowers that resemble drumsticks appear on new growth stems in late fall and black fruit develops in winter from the blooms. The plant can be grown in a container on a shady patio or as a houseplant in colder hardiness zones. It is quite popular with deer, so aim to protect it or keep it inside. If grown as a houseplant, Japanese aralia seldom blooms or develops fruit. Light If you have a shady garden, this is an excellent shrub choice, as it prefers partial to full shade. It can only tolerate about 2 hours of direct sunlight before the leaves are scorched and turn brown. If growing in a container, it should not be placed in direct sun. Find a low-light spot inside and a shady corner of a porch or patio. Soil A highly adaptable plant, Japanese aralia thrives in clay, loam, or sandy soil that can be acidic, neutral, or alkaline. However, you'll see larger, faster growth in soil that is nutrient-rich with organic matter. Container-grown plants work well with any commercial potting soil. Water Soil should be kept evenly moist. However, once established Japanese aralia can survive short periods of drought. Add a layer of mulch to help keep the soil moist in the garden. Reduce watering amounts in fall and winter when the plant is not growing as quickly. Temperature and Humidity The plant prefers temperate to warm temperatures outside and inside with moderate to high humidity. Protect the plant from drying winds. Fertilizer Fertilize regularly with a balanced NPK granular or liquid fertilizer except in the winter when the plant is not growing as much. Where and When to Plant Outdoor planting should be done in a shady area of the garden that receives around 2 to 4 hours of sunlight, preferably morning sun. The plants must be shaded to avoid the harsh afternoon sun. They are ideal as accent specimens, coarsely textured shrubs for mixed borders, or as an irregular screen or hedge. Plant in the garden in early spring after the last frost or late fall before the first frost to give the plant time to settle into the garden. Keep well-watered until the plant is established. Pruning and Trimming Japanese aralia can be pruned or trimmed at any time to maintain it's shape. Late winter is the best time to prune because blossoms will only appear on new growth. How to Propagate Japanese Aralia The best time to propagate Japanese aralia from a cutting is when there is new, green growth. You'll need a small plant pot with good drainage, potting mix, rooting hormone, and clean garden pruners. From Clippings Choose a tender stem with no blooms and cut 4 to 6 inches from the tip of the stem just below a leaf node. Remove any leaves from the lower half of the stem. Fill the container with potting mix and water it well to moisten. Use your finger to poke a hole a few inches into the soil surface. Dip the cut end of the cutting in rooting hormone powder and shake off any excess. Place the cutting in the hole and pat the soil gently around the stem to hold the cutting in place. Put the cutting in a warm place that gets a few hours of bright, indirect light. Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. After a few weeks, give the cutting a gentle tug—you'll feel resistance if it has rooted. Once the cutting has rooted, you can repot, if desired, and care for it as usual. From Fruit Seeds The plant can also be propagated from seeds gathered from the fruit that appears in the winter. Soak the fruit and crush them to extract the seeds. Sow the seeds in a well-draining seed-starting mix in a seed tray. Keep the soil warm and moist with bright, indirect light. Once the seeds germinate, thin the plants as needed. When each plant has a few sets of leaves, transplant them into individual pots. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Keep an eye out for aphids, mealybugs, scale, thrips, and spider mites on both garden plants and houseplants. Treat these pets as soon as possible to keep them under control. Overly moist soils may lead to root rot and yellowing leaves. Common Varieties 'Camouflage': Variegated foliage with big splashes of yellow, lime, and green. 'Murakumo Nishiki': The leaves are patterned with yellowish-gold with irregular dark green borders resembling brocade fabric. 'Spider's Web': The edges or the entire blade of the leaves are speckled with a white variegation. 'Variegata': The ends of the variegated leaves show traces of white or yellow. Potting and Repotting Most Fatsia japonica houseplants should be repotted every couple of years to prevent them from becoming rootbound. Roots coming out of the drainage holes or if the plant isn't producing new growth are indicators that it needs a larger pot and fresh potting soil. Gently remove the plant from the pot by tapping on the sides to loosen the soil. If the roots are growing in a circle, gently pull them apart and shake out the soil. Fill the new container about one-third full of soil and add the plant, spreading the root system. Add enough soil to fill the container within one spare inch of rim. Water well and keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Gardening

We Asked Arborists When to Prune Dogwood Trees, and They All Said the Same Thing

Spring is the worst time of year to prune your dogwood tree because you can negatively impact spring blooms. If you want to prune your dogwood trees, any other time of the year is perfect, depending on your pruning goals. Pros recommend straying away from too much pruning and only getting rid of 15% to 20% of the tree's foliage. Low-maintenance and adaptable dogwood trees can be beautiful home landscape additions, especially when the flowering varieties are in bloom. An added advantage is that these trees are usually pretty well-behaved and don't require intensive pruning. However, learning when and how to prune a dogwood tree is sensible to help keep your specimen looking and feeling its best. Our expert-approved guide will prevent you from having any cropping catastrophes. Meet the Expert Allen Tate is an ISA-certified arborist and Tree Care Operations Manager with Blooma Tree Experts. Heather Zidack is a Horticultural Outreach Educator in the Department of Plant Science & Landscape Architecture, UConn Home & Garden Education Center, University of Connecticut. Should You Prune Dogwood Trees in the Spring? Spring is the worst time to prune trees in the dogwood family, according to ISA-certified arborist Allen Tate. “[This is] simply because they are waking up and showing us their blooms,” Tate says. “It’s best to let that process play out with little disturbance.” When to Prune Dogwood Trees It's possible to prune dogwood trees at any time of the year. However, the best time depends on several factors. According to Tate, this includes the goal of the pruning, the health of the tree, and what you are willing to sacrifice. “For example, if the goal is to improve aesthetics with routine pruning such as thinning, layering, and deadwood removal, then winter, summer or fall is just fine,” he says. “If you are hoping to keep size in check to an extent and need to remove larger portions, then early summer, [immediately after flowering] is best, so long as the tree is in good health and getting properly watered.” However, Tate cautions against pruning in summer if your tree is not in good health. The risks of pruning during the active growing season is why Horticultural Outreach Educator Heather Zidack recommends considering dogwood tree pruning in the winter. “In the summer, the tree is trying to make it through the active growing season by putting out leaves and carrying out photosynthesis,” she says. Healing cuts from pruning can stress your tree when it's already working hard, and this can increase the risk of your tree developing a disease, especially if it isn't in the best of health. “If you prune dogwood trees when they are dormant, you're going to reduce disease exposure,” Zidack says. However, keep in mind that if you prune branches in winter with buds that have formed on the previous season’s growth, you could see less flowering the next season. Why Prune Dogwood Trees The primary benefits of pruning dogwood trees are improving their appearance, removing dead or diseased branches, and encouraging a healthy structure. While dogwoods aren't typically fast-growing flowering trees, Zidack says pruning can be beneficial if they are outgrowing their space, especially when situated near your home or a power line. How to Prune Dogwood Trees There are several options when pruning your dogwood tree. Remove the 3 Ds: It's always a good idea to remove any dying, damaged, or diseased branches. Remove cross branches: “Eventually these will rub each other, and that rubbing is going to leave an open wound, creating the potential for disease and decline,” Zidack says. Thinning cuts: To thin dense growth, prune out some of the small branchlets, working from the bottom up and the inside out, being careful not to prune too vigorously. Future pruning: If your dogwood is getting a little too large for your liking, consider pruning out the oldest and tallest branches at the soil line. Rejuvenation pruning: If your tree is not doing well or is too large, you can try pruning it down to the ground. New buds should generate from the root system, leading to a smaller and, hopefully, healthier new tree. Avoid Vigorous Pruning Be careful not to over-prune when thinning out your dogwood tree. Tate explains that the recommended “pruning budget” for most trees is 20% to 30% (up to 1/3) of living canopy in one year. He doesn't recommend trimming away more than 15% to 20% for dogwoods—for the canopy as a whole and for individual branches. Pruning Tips Ready to start chopping? Keep these dogwood pruning tips in mind, before getting started. Identify the species: “There are 30 to 60 species of Dogwood, and they all have their own idiosyncrasies,” Zidack says. “Knowing the species lets you get more in-depth about their specific pruning needs and timings.” Seek advice if in doubt: Zidack recommends connecting with your local cooperative extension if you aren't sure about the species or want to ask a more in-depth pruning question. Don't prune from the top: Lopping off the top can result in an explosion of messy, watersprouting regrowth. Avoid flush cuts: This is when you cut into the branch collar (the enlarged portion of the branch where it meets the trunk). The collar contains cells promoting wound healing, so cutting above the collar edge is best. Use sterile shears: Forgetting to disinfect your pruning tools can encourage the spread of disease.

Gardening

How to Plant a Tree the Right Way So It Thrives for Decades to Come

Trees are important landscape components that grow slowly but often outlast most other plants. They offer visual height, shade, and a habitat for birds, and well-planted trees could very well outlive you. Adding a tree to your property is a bit more complex than adding a small shrub or garden bed, but that doesn't mean it's too difficult for a DIY. You'll just need to invest time and resources into doing the job right if you want to leave your property more shaded and beautiful than you found it. Here's how to plant a tree the easy way and help it flourish for future generations. How to Plant a Tree Select Your Tree Type The best way to set yourself up for success is to choose a tree that will thrive in your local climate. Look up your region's USDA Plant Hardiness Zone and select a tree that is likely to grow well under local conditions. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Choose a Location Aesthetics isn't the only thing to consider when selecting the best spot for a tree. To figure out where to plant it, start with the process of elimination. You'll need to consider the following: Underground utility lines: Make sure you research your state laws before digging and contact the proper agencies and utility companies to mark underground lines. Sunlight: Most trees need six to eight hours of full sunlight to grow well, so avoid any shaded areas in your yard. Mature size: You'll also want to consider the full size of the tree when it matures, so don't select a location that's too close to structures like your home or other mature trees. Prepare Your Starter Tree If you're relatively new to gardening, planting a starter tree rather than a seed can help give you better results. You'll get to bypass the initial growing stages where more things can go wrong. Before planting a bare-root starter tree, you'll need to soak its roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours to help them stay moist during the process. For potted starter trees, make sure to water the tree as soon as you get it home. Place it outside near its future dwelling place to allow it to acclimate to the conditions for a week. When you're ready to plant it, gently remove it from its container. Prepare the Hole Adjust the soil: Start by checking your soil's acidity and assessing its health. Most trees prefer loose, loamy, and well-draining soil with a neutral pH. However, you'll want to research your specific tree's needs and adjust the soil accordingly to make it more acidic or to raise the pH. Incorporating organic matter via compost can make the soil looser, more loamy, and better-draining, but it also raises the acidity. It's all about balance. Dig the hole: Dig a hole in your yard that's at least twice the width and about one inch deeper than the starter tree's root system. Set the excavated soil aside: Don't discard the extra soil you've removed from the tree. You'll need it in the next step. Transplant the Starter Tree To transplant your tree, place it upright in the prepped hole. Shovel the excavated soil back into the hole, tamping it gently as you go. Reposition the tree as needed during the process to ensure it stays upright. Add extra soil to the base of the tree in a mound shape, and create a moat around the perimeter for extra water to collect and keep the tree moist as it matures. Apply a thin layer of mulch, leaving a three-inch ring around the base of the tree to allow for air flow. How to Care for a Newly-Planted Tree While a young tree is establishing its root system, it needs some extra attention. Follow these care tips for the first two to three years after planting your tree. Water frequently:Water the tree daily for the first two weeks to prevent root shock, and slowly reduce the frequency after to every other day and then weekly. Once your tree becomes more established, you only need to water it every two to three weeks during dry periods. Keep it mulched: Keeping a young tree mulched will help its roots retain moisture better. Reapply the mulch on an annual basis. You can drop the frequency to once every two years when the tree matures. Stake it: Sometimes, a young tree's root system isn't established enough to support it. If you notice your transplanted tree bending, stake it to prevent it from snapping from the top weight or heavy winds. The Best Time to Plant a Tree You'll want to plant a starter tree into the ground when the weather is mild and when the plant is entering or just starting to end its dormancy period. For most regions, this is during fall or early spring. Both seasons have their pros and cons for planting a tree. Planting a Tree in Fall Planting a tree in the fall gives it ample time to establish its root system before the summer heat kicks in. Since the tree is on its way towards entering dormancy, it can channel its energy into root growth rather than leaf growth. However, you want to make sure you don't plant the tree too late in the fall, or you run the risk of below-freezing temps causing damage to the tree's root system. Planting a Tree in Spring Local nurseries often get a fresh supply of trees delivered in spring, so you should have a great selection to choose from. Just be sure to wait until after the ground has thawed from winter, but don't put it off too long. The warmer temps of early summer can cause the tree to go into shock.

Gardening

Why You Should Never Cover Your Tree Roots Above Ground, An Arborist Says

Covering a tree's roots above ground can limit the tree's access to oxygen and moisture which helps them grow and stay healthy. Avoid cutting, trimming, or removing tree roots because it can make the tree woody and unstable, especially during storms. To discourage root growth at the surface level, try using mulch to cover the roots, loosen compacted soil, or hire a pro arborist. Despite their seemingly breezy maintenance requirements, trees can be tricky to care for especially if not done properly—this also extends to their root systems. Is it better, for instance, to cover tree roots or leave them alone? To gather these answers and more, we reached out to an expert tree arborist to share their best insights. Meet the Expert Eric North is a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation, the world’s largest tree-planting nonprofit planting trees. Should You Cover Your Tree Roots Above Ground? No, you should not cover the tree’s roots. according to Eric North, a certified arborist and urban forestry program manager at the Arbor Day Foundation. “Oxygen and moisture are typically most available to tree roots in the open pore spaces of the upper soil, often in the upper 18 to 24 inches,” he explains. So, the deeper you go, the more compact the soil gets, which means less space for the oxygen and moisture tree roots need. If you cover the tree’s roots, the tree will only work harder to reach closer to the soil’s surface to reach water and nutrients. All the more reason not to cover your tree’s roots. “The exception to this is when soil erosion or any other disruption to the soil environment exposes fine roots that had been below the soil surface,” North explains. In cases such as these, you can add some soil to cover any newly exposed roots. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Don’t Cut Your Tree Roots But above all, don’t trim your tree’s roots. Avoid trimming, cutting, or removing tree roots when the tree is young or old. “As roots continue to age, they become woody and their primary role changes to providing energy storage and stability for the tree,” North says. So, damaging even old roots can kill the tree’s roots, result in a reduction in the tree’s growth, or lead to unstable trees that will need to be straightened or else may fall down during storms. What to Do Instead It’s normal for roots to want to be near the soil’s surface. North explains how when roots grow near or at the soil surface, it’s typically because that’s where the most ideal conditions exist. However, there are several things you can still do to discourage root growth at the surface level. Correct the soil conditions at the time of planting. Loosen compacted soil and add in some new organic matter (such as compost). Hire a certified professional arborist to improve compacted soils and encourage root growth below the soil surface. Professional arborists have tools that use pressurized air to blow away and loosen soil without minimal damage to existing roots. Cover the tree roots with mulch. This will help the soil retain moisture while remaining covered by the mulch. Are Exposed Roots a Sign of Good or Poor Tree Health? Trees have adapted to a wide range of conditions, and their roots spread out to help them find the most nutrients. Above-ground roots are not necessarily indicators of tree health, North says. However, they can be a reasonable indicator of soil conditions. “Surface roots frequently form when soils are heavily compacted or there is a high-water table,” North says. Both situations can impact your tree’s ability to gather water and nutrients. Are Some Trees More Prone to Above Soil Roots? Yes, some tree species are genetically prone to producing shallow roots, North says. This can include such species and varieties as Ficus, mountain spruces, and trees adapted to areas prone to flooding. “In this latter case, the shallow roots nature is likely an evolutionary adaptation to manage limited resources,” he says.

Gardening

Are Your Citrus Leaves Turning Yellow? 7 Reasons Why and How to Fix It Fast

Ensure that you are watering your plant according to its needs—not too much, and not too little. Check your plant regularly for signs of pests, fungus, or other topical maladies. Consider if your plant is getting everything it needs, including space and soil nutrients. Taking care of plants is rewarding, especially when it comes to fruit trees or other edible plants. But it quickly becomes a stressful endeavor when you spot a mystery problem, such as your citrus leaves turning yellow. Whether it's an orange, lime, grapefruit, or lemon tree's leaves turning yellow, we've rounded up some of the most common reasons why the foliage might be full-blown yellow or speckled with spots, as well as solutions, straight from experts. Meet the Expert Nastya Vasylchyshyna is the resident botany expert at Plantum, a plant identification and care app. Overwatering People who care deeply for plants can be so concerned with underwatering that they end up overwatering their tree. Soggy soil can lead to root rot for the likes of lemon and orange trees, leading to yellow leaves and other problems. "It’s best to repot the plant as soon as possible if you’ve accidentally overwatered it, or if you notice that the soil is very compact and dries out pretty slowly," says botany expert Nastya Vasylchyshyna. When doing so, replace old substrate with fresh, dry soil, and examine the plant's roots, cutting off any rotten parts with sterilized pruners. Then, treat the remaining roots with fungicide, Vasylchyshyna recommends, and your tree should be as good as new. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Underwatering On the other hand, a lack of water can also cause the leaves on your mandarin, lemon, orange, and lime trees to turn yellow and eventually dry out entirely. The good news? Vasylchyshyna says it's totally possible for your tree to bounce back. "If your citrus is lacking moisture, water it more frequently and generously, soaking the soil all the way down," she says. "You can trim any bare, leafless shoots to encourage new growth." It's easy to assume that watering requirements are the same across the Rutaceae family, but it's good to look at the specific variety you've planted, how old it is, and where it's located in your garden or home. Nutrient Deficiencies Nitrogen, magnesium, zinc, nitrogen, manganese, and iron deficiencies are common among citrus tree varieties. You can combat this with soil testing and a complex fertilizer that can counteract any low or high levels of nutrients in the soil where your tree is planted. "Make sure the plant food you choose has the right ratio of macronutrients—such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—and contains necessary micronutrients as well," says Vasylchyshyna. She recommends a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 2-1-1. You'll want to adjust this as the seasons change and your citrus tree flowers. Stick with the aforementioned ratio in spring and summer. "Once the citrus starts to flower, reduce the share of nitrogen in favor of potassium (an NPK ratio of 1-1-2 or 1-1-1)," she says. "During the fruiting season, keep the nitrogen levels low and increase the share of phosphorus and potassium; a fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 1-2-2 works best at this time." Plant Diseases There are a handful of diseases that can inflict your citrus tree and lead to the yellowing of its leaves. Some are specific to certain varieties of citrus, whereas others you'll find wreaking havoc across various tree types. One of the main diseases citrus trees are susceptible to is chlorosis; this issue can arise through a few different factors—from pest infestations to overwatering to physical breakages. In many instances, you may want to prune a lemon tree or other citrus variety to stop the spread. Preventative Measures Opting for greening-tolerant tree varieties, fully understanding how to care for your specific type of citrus tree (including light, water, soil, and fertilization requirements), and being aware of any changes to the plants' conditions will best set your trees up for success. Pests Like any plant or tree, citrus fruits can attract a range of bugs to its branches. While some are undoubtedly essential and supportive (like pollinators), some cause trouble for your trees. One example in particular is spider mites. "These pests can be quite hard to spot, especially early on, as they hide on leaf undersides and in leaf axils," says Vasylchyshyna. "They pierce leaves and suck the sap from plant tissue, which causes the foliage to turn yellow." Give your trees thorough examinations, using a magnifying glass to spot any tiny critter infestations. Oftentimes, the best way to solve for these problems are through hosing down the tree and using an insecticide or acaricide. Fungus Fungi can cause problems for citrus trees and lead to the development of diseases, with common symptoms being yellow leaves. Fungicides are usually the most effective way of clearing out the fungus; oil is another helpful solution. Before taking action, visually determine the exact type of fungal problem your tree is having and the best fix depending on the kind of tree you have. The Pot A common, though unexpected, culprit of yellowing leaves is often the pot your tree is in. Trees growing in a planter as opposed to in the ground may feel restricted, leading to yellow leaves. "When choosing a pot, make sure it accommodates the root system, leaving just enough space for new growth," Vasylchyshyna says. "If your citrus gets root-bound, it can't properly absorb water and nutrients." If this happens, repot your plant as fast as possible into a container twice the size of the previous one. While doing so, loosen the roots of your plant to encourage healthy growth. Once this is done, be sure to give it plenty of attention and care so it can recover from the shock.

Gardening

How to Grow and Care for Dragon Tree (Dracaena Marginata) Indoors

Dragon tree (Dracaena marginata), is a tall plant with green, sword-like, red-edged leaves. Native to Madagascar, the eye-catching spiky tree is a great entry plant for household gardeners wanting an indoor tree—it's easy to care for, drought-tolerant, and nearly indestructible. This slow-growing tree can take a decade to reach a few feet tall but can eventually grow to about 20 feet. However, it is generally grown as a potted houseplant and kept pruned to 6 feet or less. Keep the dragon tree away from pets because it's toxic to animals if ingested.1 Dragon Tree Tips for Beginners Where to Put It: Place your dragon tree in a spot that receives bright to medium indirect sunlight. How to Water It: Dragon trees are drought-tolerant plants, so give it a good watering once every three weeks. Soil Type: Use a loose, well-drained potting mix when growing dragon trees, as they'll thrive best in this mixture. Dragon Tree Care Dragon trees are very popular as large potted plants for homes and offices. Here are the most important care requirements. Plant in well-draining soil Water regularly during their growing season. Place in bright, indirect light, though they can thrive in a variety of light conditions. Fertilize conservatively at the beginning of spring. Light Place your dragon tree in an area with bright, indirect light. These plants can also survive in partial shade. Keep in mind that plants kept in lower light situations will grow slower and produce smaller leaves with less intense color. Additionally, take care not to place your dragon tree in a spot that receives direct rays of sunlight—its foliage can burn easily.2 Soil Use a loose, well-drained potting mix when growing a dragon tree as a potted plant—loamy soil amended with peat moss is ideal. Make sure the container you choose has room for the plant's extensive root system. Some varieties are imported from Hawaii and will arrive with lava rock—if this is the case, remove about a third of the rock and replace it with potting soil. Water Wait until the top half of the soil is dry before watering a dragon tree, which could take three weeks or more. Like many drought-tolerant plants, the dragon tree can be easily overwatered. Temperature and Humidity Keep your dragon tree in their preferred warmer temperatures of between 70°F and 80°F. Regular household humidity should be fine for them, but if your house is particularly dry, you can consider misting the plant lightly from a spray bottle every few days. Fertilizer Feed a dragon tree lightly at the beginning of spring with a balanced controlled-release liquid fertilizer. Although they have a relatively low need for fertilizer and it is not an essential component to having a thriving plant, it can support new growth. Types of Dragon Tree Although there are several varieties of dragon tree, the most commonly found at plant stores (and used as household plants) include: Dracaena marginata 'Tricolor': This varietal has dark red margins, green leaves, and an ivory stripe down the leaf center. D. marginata 'Colorama': This dragon tree may appear to be completely pink, but it's actually variegated with white and green stripes. It will need very bright light to keep its unique colors. D. marginata 'Bicolor': True to its name, this dragon tree varietal has red and green stripes. Tips for Buying In-Store Check for pests. Look underneath leaves and along the stem to make sure no critters follow you home. Avoid plants with brown spots on leaves. Read the plant label. Make sure that this plant works for you, your lifestyle, and your space. Pruning It's perfectly normal for a dragon tree to self-shed dead leaves—just pick them up and discard them. To keep the plant trimmed and neat, remove leaves that look like they are about to fall off or cut back stems with sterile, sharp pruning shears to tidy up the tree. Sterilize your pruning tool with a clean rag doused in a common household item, such as rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide, then rinse with water, and wipe the tool dry before using it on your plant. Pruning Tip No pruners? No problem! We've tested over 10 top-rated pruners to help you choose the right one for your comfort and personal needs—there's an option for everyone. Propagating Dragon Tree You can propagate your dragon tree using stem cuttings rooted in water. It's so easily done that the varietal is often used in dish gardens and readily propagated by nurseries and retailers. It's best to do this in the spring when the plant is growing vigorously. It takes just about three weeks for the cuttings to sprout roots, and using a rooting hormone isn’t necessary. Using a sterile, sharp scissor, cut a long length of stem that's about 8 inches. Remove any low-hanging leaves. Put the cutting in moistened potting soil. Place the cutting in bright, but indirect sunlight. Once new leaves have sprouted, you'll know the plant has grown some new roots, and you can care for the plant as usual. Potting and Repotting Dragon Tree Make sure to check your dragon tree at least once a year to see if it should be repotted into a bigger pot. Check the bottom of the container for roots coming through the drainage holes, which is a sign that the tree is root-bound and in need of a larger container. Choose a new pot with a diameter about 2 inches larger than its current container. Make sure that it has one or more drainage holes. Because these trees grow so slowly, they generally require repotting only every second—or even third—year. In the meantime, you can refresh the potting soil annually to replace any of the mixture that has become compacted. Planters for Dragon Tree Plants When checking your dragon tree plant annually, you'll likely have to size up a planter for repotting. Here are our favorite indoor planters to pick from. To prevent overwatering, you can also go with one of these self-watering planters. Common Pests Although they are fairly disease-resistant, dragon trees are susceptible to scale insects, mealybugs, and thrips.3 Mealybugs are easy to identify as they leave small, sticky, cottony deposits on the leaves of the tree. Dragon tree plants are also at risk of acquiring the common plant pest, spider mites.4 They tend to occur when temperatures are warm and the air is very dry; however, mites are very difficult to see until they have already damaged the plant. Pests to Watch If you spot any of these pests on your dragon tree, fight back with neem oil, insecticidal soap, or horticultural oil. Mix them with the recommended amount of water and spray on the leaves, stems, and soil. Common Problems with Dragon Tree While dragon trees are fairly easy to maintain, there are a few things to watch for. Leaves Falling Off Overwatering can cause the leaves of dragon trees to become yellow and fall off. These trees are sensitive to excessive moisture in their roots. To avoid this, check the soil regularly. If the top 2 inches of soil feel too wet, it's a sign that you may have gone too far with watering. Drooping Leaves If you notice the leaves of your dragon tree drooping, it could be a sign that the plant is thirsty. You should avoid waiting for the plant to dry out completely before watering it. If the lower leaves are drooping significantly more than the rest of the plant, it could be a symptom of root rot. To avoid any problems, also ensure that you are not over-watering the plant. Brown Leaves or Leaf Tips If the soil is too moist or too dry, dragon tree leaves may start to brown. Make sure you're striking the right balance when irrigating. Additionally, lack of humidity can lead to browning tips and eventual leaf loss. Improve humidity by placing the plant on a dish filled with pebbles and water or use a humidifier. If the plant develops brown tips on its leaves, that's usually a sign the water you're using has too much salt or fluoride, which can cause discoloration. Water your dragon tree with distilled or non-fluoridated water to avoid fluoride buildup. Crispy Leaves If you notice that the foliage on your dragon tree is crunchy, it could be a sign that the plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. When exposed to bright light, the leaves can curl and become crispy. Keep the plant in indirect sunlight or partial shade for best results. Yellowing Leaves In some instances, you may notice the leaves of your dragon tree turning yellow, which could be the result of too much direct sun. The leaves can scorch, become discolored, and start to droop.2 Move the plant to a spot receiving more indirect or filtered sun before excess light causes permanent damage. Yellowing leaves could also be a sign the plant needs more or less water. Make sure you strike the right balance.

Gardening

How to Grow and Care for Norfolk Island Pine

Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) is not an actual pine tree, despite the name. Rather, these plants are a relative of the monkey puzzle tree. It is often cultivated as a landscape tree in subtropical climates in North America (USDA zones 10 to 11) and grown indoors elsewhere as a manageable indoor tree, where they grow around three to eight feet tall or can be trained as a bonsai or miniature tree. Outdoors, the maximum height of a Norfolk Island pine is around 200 feet tall. Whether grown inside or outdoors, the Norfolk pine requires copious amounts of light to survive. In other regions, the slow-growing Norfolk Island pine is often grown as a living Christmas tree, frequently decorated with ribbons or ornaments. All too often, the tree is discarded after the holiday season, but it can easily be kept as a permanent foliage plant indoors or planted outdoors when it warms up in the spring. Norfolk Island Pine Care The main care requirements for a Norfolk Island Pine are fairly straightforward. Plant in a location that gets full sun. Locate your tree in an area with temperatures above 35°F. Water your Norfolk Pine at least every two weeks indoors. Test your tree's soil pH and amend for acidic soil. Norfolk Island pines are capable of growing both indoors and outdoors. While they have preferred growing conditions, they are quite forgiving and can thrive in various settings. Light A Norfolk Island pine needs sun, preferring full sun whenever possible. A south-facing window is ideal. Norfolk Island pines can also handle relatively long periods (months at a time) in dimmer conditions. You can keep your potted plant indoors during the winter and then move it to a sunny spot outdoors when the summer comes around. If your plant begins to stretch while growing inside, the odds are that the combination of low light and heavy fertilizer is causing leggy growth. In that case, cut back on the fertilizer until the plant has more access to sunlight. It's helpful to turn it frequently, so every side gets equal light. Soil If growing Norfolk Island pine indoors, use a potting mix that is porous, sandy, and slightly acidic. Adding extra peat moss and sand to a standard potting mix will improve acidity and porosity. Grown outside, it prefers soil that is rich, sandy, and acidic. These are acid-loving plants, preferring a pH in the 4.5 to 5.5 range. You can check your soil pH with an easy-to-do test, which will help keep your tree happy and healthy for a long time. Water Water your Norfolk Island pine regularly, keeping the soil damp but not soggy. Indoors, it should be watered every one to two weeks, until excess moisture starts draining out of the bottom of the pot. Outdoor Norfolk pine trees prefer the soil to remain somewhat moist. Once established, it will tolerate somewhat dry conditions. Temperature and Humidity Because they are native to the South Pacific, Norfolk Island pines prefer warmer, wetter climates between 65°F and 70°F. They can briefly survive cooler and warmer temperatures but may perish if they experience temperatures below 35°F. If you want to give your Norfolk pine some extra love, use a humidifier to help increase the humidify around the plant. Fertilizer Feed your Norfolk Island pine with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season, although it is best to suspend fertilizing in low-light periods. A 20-20-20 NPK formulation will work fine, but to add the acidity that the Norfolk Island pine loves so much, you can look for proprietary fertilizers specially formulated for conifers or azaleas. Norfolk Island pines—especially younger trees—have notoriously weak root systems. To strengthen their roots, make sure you're supplying regular fertilizer, and don't hesitate to stake your tree up if it needs support. Potting and Repotting Norfolk Island Pines A potted Norfolk Island pine only needs to be repotted when it's rootbound or the roots are beginning to come out of the drainage hole. Young Norfolk Island pines are not very fast growers, so you'll likely only need to repot it every few years. Repot your Norfolk Island pine in the springtime. Choose a heavy pot to help keep the tree from falling over. Make sure the pot is only a couple of inches larger than the one the plant is coming from, with plenty of drainage holes. Types of Norfolk Island Pines There is only one variety of Norfolk Island pine on the market: Araucaria heterophylla. This plant does not have cultivars or named varieties. A few other species from this family sometimes show up in the trade, mislabeled as the original plant. These include A. columnaris, A. araucana, and A. bidwillii. It's unlikely you'll see these, but if you happen to acquire one, the care requirements are similar. Pruning Remove lower branches that have died—a common issue that happens with potted indoor plants. It is usually not recommended to trim the top of the tree, but if a potted tree gets too large for its space, cut off the central leader. If it does get new growth, the new growth will branch out, which will cause the tree to lose its classic evergreen look, but it will help the tree to stay shorter. Remove dead and diseased branches from trees grown outdoors, but other than this, no routine pruning is necessary. How to Grow Norfolk Island Pine From Seed Norfolk Island pine best propagates by seed. Collect the seeds. Break apart the spherical cones after they fall from the tree to remove the seeds. Plant them soon after. Place seeds on soil. Place seeds flat on the soil surface in a container at least 12 inches deep. The ideal soil mix is a moist, peaty, sandy mix. Don't cover the seeds with soil. Mist and wait. Mist the seeds to encourage germination, which should occur in 10 to 15 days. Set pot in bright, indirect light. Place the pot in a spot that gets bright, indirect light. If growing outdoors, choose a location that gets partial sun, with only three to four hours of direct sun. Care for as usual after germination. A tap root and top growth are signs the seed has germinated. Once the seedlings have a tap root and growth, keep the soil moist and care for as usual. Tip Do not attempt to propagate a Norfolk Island pine by taking a cutting; it is not recommended since new growth does not grow back in its place like other plants.12 Overwintering Norfolk pines can't tolerate temperatures below 35°F. In winter, bring potted Norfolk Pine trees indoors (if it's not already). Place it in a room with average or high humidity and full, bright sunlight (a bright bathroom would be ideal). Water only when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Norfolk Island Pines are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealybugs, scale, mites, and whiteflies.3 If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat it with the least toxic option. A Norfolk pine may also develop a fungal disease from overwatering, such as anthracnose, which can turn entire sections of the tree yellow, brown, and then cause the plant to die. Common Problems With Norfolk Island Pines This easy-going tree may encounter a few challenges in its life. The needles will turn different colors to alert you to a problem. Needles Turning Brown Norfolk Island pine does best in moderate temperatures; it doesn't tolerate cold or heat well. Wide temperature fluctuations can cause the needles to brown. Needles that are turning brown may also indicate that the plant is being overwatered or underwatered. Needles Turning Yellow If the needles turn yellow, the tree is either getting too much or not enough sunlight. Assess the light the tree is getting and make an adjustment so it's either getting less or more. Extreme changes in temperature may also be the culprit turning the needles yellow. Check the area for any vents that might have started coming on. Needles Dropping Needles will drop for two reasons: your tree is either being overwatered or it's not given enough light.

Gardening

How to Grow and Care for Lemon Cypress Trees

You might recognize the lemon cypress as the potted evergreen that seems to show up in every big box retail store before Christmas. However, this narrow, columnar evergreen tree is more than a lemon-scented holiday plant for indoors. It is a versatile needled conifer that can be used as a hedge, specimen, bonsai, or kept in a container on a patio. Also commonly referred to as the Goldcrest Monterey Cypress, Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ (also known as Hesperocyparis macrocarpa) is a Monterey cypress cultivar with upward-growing branches. The unique yellow-green color of the lemon cypress can play off the darker greens of other conifers, while texture can be experimented with by placing the shrub next to boulders and fencing. Lemon Cypress Care One of the great things about C. macrocarpa ‘Goldcrest’ is that it is an easy plant to care for. Provide full sun to partial shade. Do not enrich the soil. Water a new plant weekly until established. Light Lemon cypress trees require a good amount of light. Outdoors, a lemon cypress tree should be planted in full sun to partial shade. Indoors, the tree needs 5 to 6 hours of indirect sunlight or morning sun; don't put it in a wast-facing window, as the bright light can harm the foliage. Soil The lemon cypress is adapted to grow in poor, sandy, well-draining soils that are low in organics and not very fertile. This poor soil allows the slow-growing tree to pace its development to match its height with its roots, helping to ensure that winds do not blow the thin and narrow plant over. Water As an outdoor shrub or tree, once established, the lemon cypress needs little supplemental watering. Allow the plant to establish itself by watering it once a week during the first season. If kept as a houseplant, give it a thorough deep watering weekly, ensuring the soil is never too dry. Temperature and Humidity A lemon cypress prefers cool, moist climates with temperatures between 20°F and 80°F. Grown indoors, the lemon cypress needs to be kept in a place with sufficient humidity. Fertilizer Don't fertilize a lemon cypress tree. It's native environment has poor soil conditions, and rich soils will cause quick, uneven growth and could result in an unstable tree. Types of Lemon Cypress In addition to the straight species. Cupressus macrocarpa. a few cultivars of Monterey cypress have been bred: C. macrocarpa 'Goldcrest Wilma': a slow-growing dwarf cultivar, 6 to 8 ft. tall, and 1 to 2 ft. wide, with fragrant, golden yellow needles C. macrocarpa 'Golden Pillar': with golden yellow needles when grown in a sunny location, and a mature size of 20 ft. tall and 4 ft. wide C. macrocarpa 'Citriodora': a slow-growing cultivar that can reach 15 to 30 ft. in height. New growth is bright yellow and turns deep green in the first year. Pruning Lemon cypress looks best in its natural, untrimmed, slow-growing upright shape. The only regular pruning maintenance required is when the lemon cypress is used as a hedge, bonsai, or topiary. In these cases, it needs to be done carefully and in a timely fashion. This shrub, like most conifers, does not take well to hard pruning. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your lemon cypresses? We tested top-rated pruners in our Lab to make sure your shrubs stay happy and healthy. Propagating Lemon Cypress The best time for propagating lemon cypress from cuttings is in the winter. Here's how it's done: Cut stem. Cut a piece of stem about 4 inches long. Remove lower leaves. Strip the foliage off the bottom part of the stem so the first 2 inches are bare. Prepare new pot. Add moist, well-draining potting mix to a small pot. Use a pencil to poke a hole in the soil mix. Use rooting hormone and plant. Moisten the cut end and dip it in rooting hormone. Insert the cutting into the small hole in the soil. Cover pot with plastic. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and use sticks to keep the plastic in place. Make sure the plastic does not touch the cutting. Place in bright location. Place the pot in a warm location away from direct sunlight. Water it as needed to keep it evenly moist. Remove plastic bag and let plant grow. When the cutting has developed a good root system—you'll know it's there when the stem does not move if you gently tug on it—it's time to remove the plastic bag, move the pot to a sunny location, and let the sapling continue to grow in the container, or transplant it outdoors. How to Grow Lemon Cypress From Seeds Most lemon cypress trees are cultivars and propagating them from seed does not produce a plant with the same features as the parent, therefore, propagation from seed is not recommended. Potting and Repotting Lemon Cypress Excellent drainage is crucial for lemon cypress so make sure the pot you use has large drain holes. Terracotta pots are ideal because they let air get to the roots but the pots also dry out faster so adjust the watering frequency accordingly. If keeping the lemon cypress in a container, it should be repotted once every three to four years. Move it to a larger pot at least one inch wider than the old pot and backfill with fresh potting mix. Prune the roots conservatively to keep growth in check while repotting. Overwintering Even when grown in a temperature range where it can be grown outdoors, cold winter winds burn the needles so the tree needs some protection. Below USDA zone 7, lemon cypress is best grown in a container and brought indoors during the winter. Keep the humidity around it high by adding a humidifier to the area and place it away from any drafts or heaters. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Cypress is prone to attacks by aphids, mealybugs, caterpillars, and scale insects. These usually don't affect the overall health of the tree and can be controlled with insecticidal soap.1 A more serious problem is coryneum canker, a fungus that can kill the tree. To keep it under control, remove infected branches promptly and dispose of them in the trash. Common Problems With Lemon Cypress After pruning a potted lemon cypress, you might notice that the tips of the pruned branches turn brown. That is part of the natural process and the brown spots should be disguised in due time by new bushy growth.

Gardening

How to Grow and Care for an Avocado Tree Like a Pro

Avocado trees (Persea americana) are a great plant to grow if you live in the southern tip of the United States or father south. These plants are best grown outdoors as they can reach up to 60 feet in height. These evergreen fruit trees are best known for their delicious fruit, the avocado. Though the fruit may be the main draw for many growers, avocado trees are also quite beautiful because of their thick, bright green foliage and add ornamental value to any outdoor space. However, if it’s the fruit you’re after, these plants need warmth and space for the best results. Keep in mind that all parts of this tree, including the fruit, are toxic to a wide range of animals. How to Plant an Avocado Tree It is best to plant avocado trees outdoors in the spring, allowing ample time to become established before winter temperatures arrive. Plant your avocado tree in a location with plenty of sunlight and well-draining soil. If soil conditions are less than ideal, amend the soil with sand or another well-draining substrate before planting. The trees are vulnerable to high winds, so immature trees may benefit from support. Try choosing a planting location that offers wind protection to help keep your tree upright and healthy. All avocado trees should be planted at least 10 feet away from structures. The avocado tree's root system is sensitive, so try not to disturb the roots during planting. Dig a hole that is wider than the root structure and the same height as the root ball. Avocado Tree Care Light Like most tropical plants, the avocado tree thrives on a lot of sunshine. Plant this tree in a location where it can receive at least 8 hours of sunlight every day. These trees can tolerate partial shade, but grow best and produce more fruits when kept in full sun. Water Avocado trees benefit from infrequent, deep watering. Wait until the soil begins to dry out, then water deeply. During the summer months, the avocado tree will require more frequent watering. Young trees also require more frequent watering as they become established. Mature trees should receive around two inches of water per week. Soil Avocado trees prefer rich, loamy, and well-draining soil. A soil pH that is acidic to neutral, between 5 and 7, is ideal. These trees are sensitive to alkaline soil. Adding a layer of mulch around the tree can help the soil retain the right amount of moisture and will offer protection to the avocado tree's shallow root system. Don't mulch any closer than six inches from the trunk. Temperature and Humidity Outdoors avocado trees can only be grown in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11. They are frost-sensitive and grow best in temperatures between 50ºF and 85ºF. Though prolonged temperatures 30ºF or below will be too cold for avocado trees, they should be able to withstand an occasional, very brief freeze. You can grow an avocado tree indoors in any climate. Fertilizer You should fertilize an avocado tree starting in the late winter to early spring and feed until the fall, depending on the specific instructions included with your chosen fertilizer. Fertilizers specifically designed for avocado or citrus trees work best. Pollination For the best pollination, it is ideal to have two avocado trees, as flowers have male and female parts but they open at separate times, making self-pollination is unlikely. Avocado trees are considered either type A or type B, and each type opens its flowers parts at different times of day. These different times make cross-pollination between the two types possible. When choosing which trees to plant, be sure you have both type A and type B for best results. How to Grow Avocado Trees From Seed Starting an avocado tree from seed is a fun, simple project. However, it is important to keep in mind that seeds will not produce trees identical to the parent tree. To do this, you will need an avocado seed, a jar of water, toothpicks, a sharp knife, a small pot, and well-draining potting soil. Poke holes in avocado pit. Using a sharp knife, poke three or four holes around the circumference of the avocado pit. Poke toothpicks into pit. Poke the toothpicks into the holes, which will create the support needed to suspend the pit in water. Place thick end in water. Fill a jar with water (the jar should be narrow enouogh the toothpicks will hold most of the pit above water). Submerge the thick, or bottom end, of the seed into the water. Around one-third of the pit should be in the water. Place in sunny spot. Place the water jar with the pit in a sunny location and change the water daily. Wait for roots to form. After a few weeks, roots should form and leaves should appear at the top of the seed. Plant in soil. Once this occurs, gently plant the seed in well-draining soil. Types of Avocado Trees to Grow All avocado trees stem from three main varieties: Mexican, West Indian, and Guatemalan. Within these categories, there are several avocado varieties available. Hass: One of the most popular avocado varieties, the Hass avocado is often found in grocery stores. This is a type A tree that produces thick, bumpy-skinned, rich, and creamy fruits. It is more sensitive to heat than other varieties. Hass avocado trees are known to produce a reasonably sized yield when grown on their own. Fuerte: Also a widely known avocado type, the Fuerte avocado is a type B tree often grown with Hass avocados. These trees produce large, oval-shaped fruits with relatively smooth, thin skin. These trees are also more sensitive to heat, making them a good fit for the northern borders of the avocado's growing zones. Pinkerton: This type A, Guatemalan tree is popular for its smaller size and large fruit yield. It produces oblong fruits with flesh similar to the Hass avocado—rich and creamy. These trees require a type B avocado tree to produce a significant fruit yield. Harvesting Avocados On a healthy outdoor avocado tree, you could harvest upwards of 200 avocados per season. For nursery-bought trees, you can expect to see fruit in three to four years. For avocados started from seed, it may take five to 13 years before fruits appear. When fruits appear, wait until the avocado grows to its mature size. The fruits do not ripen on the tree, so avocados are picked as soon as they are full size. Bring the avocados indoors and let them rest on a counter until ripe. Harvesting Tip Don't pick all of your avocados at once. If you pick a few at a time, you will be able to extend your harvest and enjoy the fruits of your labor for longer. How to Grow Avocado Trees in Pots Avocados can be grown in pots outdoors, though it will stifle their growth. (They can also be grown indoors in pots.) This is ideal for small yards or gardens near the northern edge of the avocado’s growing zones, as potted trees can be moved to a protected area when cold weather arrives. Young trees or dwarf varieties are ideal for growing in pots as these will stay small for some time. Pruning If avocado trees are grown from seed, start pruning when the seedling is only six inches tall, snipping off the top pair of the leaves. When it reaches a foot in height, trim it back six inches. After this, prune the tree yearly. Mature trees require occasional pruning. Light pruning can be done any time of year, though heavy pruning should be done in the early spring. Prune thick areas to ensure adequate light and airflow. Cut back any dead wood and trim away V-shaped branches. Don't take off more than one-third of the length of each branch. Pruning Tip Looking for the best pruners for your avocado trees? We tested 8 top-rated pruners in our Lab to make sure your trees stay happy and healthy. Propagating Avocado Trees Propagation is often done through grafting, layering, or cuttings. Grafting is often done to combine the desirable qualities of two different varieties of avocados while layering and starting cuttings are done to produce duplicate trees. Here’s how to perform each method of propagation: Propagating an Avocado Tree From Cuttings You will need sharp snips, moist and well-draining potting soil, a small pot, and IBA rooting hormone. In the spring, select new growth that is five to six inches long and has several leaves that have not opened. Using sharp snips, cut the new growth branch at a 45-degree angle. Wound the cut end by scraping at the bark on either side of the cutting. This will encourage root production. Dip the cutting into IBA rooting hormone. Bury the cut end into moist, well-draining soil. Keep the soil moist and place the cutting in a sunny area. After a couple of weeks, gently tug the cutting to check for resistance, which indicates root growth. Repot the cutting into a larger pot or outdoors. Grafting an Avocado Tree You will need sharp snips, a sharp knife, and something to cover the grafted area, such as grafting tape. Follow steps one and two as if you are taking a cutting. Remove the tip of the cutting, along with any leaves that are present. Then, wound the tree you would like to graft onto by removing a section of bark. Make sure the cambium of the cutting and the cambium of the tree are touching. Secure the cutting onto the tree with grafting tape, making sure to cover the exposed areas. In a few weeks, the grafted branch and the main tree should be fused together. Air Layering an Avocado Tree You will need a sharp knife, a rooting medium that can be wrapped around a branch, and rope or tape to secure the rooting medium around the tree. Select the branch you would like to take as a new tree. Using a clean knife, cut two circles around the branch to create a section of bark that can be peeled away. Once the bark is removed, scrape the inner branch to clean the cambium away. Wrap the exposed inner branch with rooting material, such as compost in a small bag (make sure the compost is wrapping the branch, not the bag) or another rooting medium. Secure around the branch with rope or tape. In several weeks, roots should develop. When this occurs, remove the bag, cut the branch off below the formed roots, and plant the new tree. Overwintering When grown in the appropriate zones, avocado trees do not require extra care during the winter unless the area experiences a frost. Protect the tree from a cold front by wrapping it loosely in burlap and adding extra soil at the base of its trunk until the frost has passed. For trees grown on the northern edges of their growing zones, it is best to keep them in pots so they can be moved to an area protected from cold weather. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Common pests that may bother an avocado tree include mites, caterpillars, borers, lace bugs, and thrips. Diseases include root rot, fruit rot, sun blotch, and cankers. Be alert to the presence of these pests or early signs of disease. Prompt action is the best way to remedy any developing problems before they threaten the health of your avocado tree.

Gardening

How to Grow and Care for Ginseng Ficus Bonsai

Ginseng ficus is commonly used for bonsai, particularly for its narrow elevated roots that swell into a potbelly trunk and thin at the branches before spreading out to the crown. Ginseng ficus is a tropical plant native to Southeast Asia and is a member of the Moraceae or mulberry family. Ginseng ficus grows best in acidic to neutral soil with higher humidity and full sun from a nearby window. The sap from this plant is toxic to humans, and touching it can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions; wash hands after touching it.1 Ginseng ficus is toxic to dogs and cats. Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Care Here are the main care requirements for growing a ginseng ficus bonsai: Grows best with warmth and humidity; avoid drafts. Prefers bright, indirect sun. Give water when the soil dries out. Provide fertilizer on a regular schedule once a month. Light Your bonsai will need six to eight hours of light. Indoors, placing it on a windowsill is a good idea. If this is not available, grow lights can aid in growing your ginseng ficus. The bonsai will not tolerate shade at all. If you take your tree outdoors during the summer, plan to place it in a spot with plenty of sunlight but not too much afternoon sun. Soil Ginseng ficus trees do well in a soil mix of 60% aggregate and forty percent organic matter. You can buy a premix or make your own using pine bark, lava rock, and a product called akadama, which holds water and slowly breaks down over time. Water Water your ginseng ficus thoroughly whenever the soil gets slightly dry, but do not water it to the point where the bonsai is dripping or fungal issues may occur. More frequent watering will be needed if your plant is in a hot environment. Temperature and Humidity The ginseng ficus is an indoor bonsai and is not frost-hardy. It can be brought outside once temperatures are consistently above 60°F but must be kept in the sun and not allowed to dry out. Low humidity can be tolerated due to the waxy surface covering the ficus’ leaves, but it will thrive in a humid environment. Fertilizer Bonsai draw on very little soil, so it is necessary to replenish their nutrients occasionally. Any multi-purpose liquid fertilizer available at your friendly local nursery or garden center should be adequate. For bonsai, dilute the mixture by 50% with water before applying monthly. Using Ginseng Ficus as a Bonsai For newcomers to the ancient Japanese art of bonsai, a great place to start is with a ginseng ficus. It looks terrific and requires minimal care compared to other bonsai, which can be challenging to maintain. Bonsai artists especially focus on the raised roots of these funky little plants to create a particular aesthetic. In their natural habitat, these aerial roots grow easily in high-humidity environments. The effect is achieved by roots growing vertically downward from branches until they reach the soil, developing into thick, strong trunks. This can achieve the desired pillar style or the root-over-rock bonsai style deshojo. Training a Bonsai To train your plant, use anodized aluminum or annealed copper wire. Wiring your ficus’ thin and medium branches is easy since they are flexible and bend easily. Ensure the wires are not cutting into the tree and readjust if needed. For larger branches, guy wires will be necessary and must stay on the tree much longer. Ficus trees are unique in that they can fuse their branches, roots, and other ficus plants. Clean Your Tools When working with a ginseng ficus—whether training or pruning—always be sure to disinfect your tools. These plants are highly sensitive to bacteria that are transmitted to the plant via pruning tools, pots, and potting medium. Pruning Pruning is necessary and part of what makes a bonsai a bonsai, not just a plant. You can forego the pruning for a year or longer to achieve a thicker trunk. When ready to prune leaves, an excellent rule is to prune back to two leaves after six to eight leaves have grown. New shoots will grow from old wood if you have left the trunk to thicken. But be sure to tend to any substantial wounds with cut paste so disease does not occur. Always use sharp and clean tools when working with your plant. Propagating Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Ginseng ficus, aka ficus retusa, can easily be propagated, and there's no better time to do that than after you've pruned it. Here's how: Simply select a healthy stem and cut a 6-inch cutting with scissors or pruning shears. Put the cutting in a container that has been prepared with potting soil mix, and then water it. Place a clear plastic bag over the cuttings to create a greenhouse effect, keeping the moisture in and encouraging it to root. Water lightly every few days, making sure the soil stays moist. The cutting should root in a few weeks. Potting and Repotting Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Repotting a bonsai must happen when the root system has filled the pot. It needs to be done to give the tree new soil and to encourage a more compact root system. You will only need to repot your ficus every other year during the summer. Simply remove the tree and soil from its pot and trim its roots' outer and lower quarters. Be careful not to over-prune or remove too much root material. Place the bonsai into the original pot or a new container using the bonsai soil mix. Common Pests & Plant Diseases Caring for your ginseng ficus bonsai properly, with the correct lighting and water, will keep it strong and more resistant to pests and plant diseases. However, the ginseng ficus can get spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids. Use neem oil or a liquid dishwashing soap and water mixture to remove the pests. Root rot, a fungal disease, can be a problem for ginseng ficus if overwatered. If you see any white or black spots on the leaves, trim them off and treat the bonsai with a fungicide. Common Problems With Ginseng Ficus Bonsai Ginseng ficus is easy to maintain when given the right growing conditions. Losing Leaves or Wilting Water issues, such as too much or insufficient, can cause ginseng ficus to drop its leaves. Keep the top inch of soil moist but not soggy. Leaves that are underwatered will appear wilted but should plump up again after giving water. Yellowing Leaves All leaves will eventually turn yellow and die, but prematurely yellowing leaves can be caused by overwatering or a fungal infection, like root rot.

Gardening

Waiting for Your Magnolia Tree to Flower? When You Can Catch the Best Blooms

Magnolia trees are versatile landscape plants with hundreds of species and cultivars ranging from dwarf types at 6 to 12 feet up to the towering 80-foot Southern Magnolia, M. grandiflora. With a wide range of bloom times and flower size and color, one can be found to fit every yard and garden. When Do Magnolia Trees Bloom? Flowering occurs according to species and climate with blooms in late winter, spring, summer or autumn. Some varieties bloom more than once for two to three weeks. Others produce flowers before they leaf out. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What to Know About Magnolia Trees Growing Season Magnolias may be deciduous or evergreen with most evergreen types hardy to zone 7. Evergreen varieties are cultivars of the Southern magnolia, blooming from spring to early summer with large, white flowers continuing sporadically throughout summer. Deciduous and semi-evergreen species and their cultivars grow in zones 3 and higher with a wider range of bloom periods and flower color and size. M. grandiflora 'Little Gem': A dwarf evergreen cultivar, Little Gem blooms in May with a primary flush that continues sparser into July. It's a slow grower maturing at 20 to 25 feet tall and 12 to 15 feet wide. Flowers are creamy white up to 12 inches in diameter. M. grandiflora 'Samuel Sommer': This evergreen variety produces some of the largest flowers up to 14 inches across. A spring flush of creamy, white flowers slows in summer with a second autumn flush in ideal climates. Samuel Sommer matures at 35 to 40 feet with a 20- to 30-foot spread. M. grandiflora 'Edith Bogue': An evergreen cold hardy to -15°F, 'Edith Bogue' thrives in zones 6 to 9. Lemon scented, white blooms appear late spring through early August depending on climate. Trees mature at 40 feet tall with a 30 foot spread. M. virginiana 'Sweet Bay': At heights and spreads of 10 to 35 feet, Sweet Bay magnolia and it's cultivars grow as large shrubs or small trees. Native to the eastern U.S., varieties feature smaller 3-inch, white flowers in May and June. This is a semi-evergreen species with some cultivars evergreen as low as zone 4. M. soulangeana 'Saucer Magnolia': This deciduous magnolia and its cultivars are the most commonly grown varieties. They bloom early from March to mid-April with sporadic flowering through summer. 6-inch flowers open before foliage in white, pink, rose, purple, magenta or burgundy. Mature sizes range from 20 to 25 feet tall and wide. M. stellata 'Star Magnolia': Noted for its compact size and star-shaped, white flowers, this magnolia blooms late winter to early spring. It matures at 10 to 20 feet with an 8- to 15-foot spread. Flowers measure 4 inches across in shades of white, pink and purple. Ideal Growing Conditions for Magnolia Trees to Bloom Review care requirements for specific varieties to ensure they'll flourish and bloom in your climate. Certain cultivars adapt well to wetlands, coastal or urban areas. Here are general growing conditions. Moist, well-draining loam with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal. Allow soil to dry out slightly in between watering. Sweetbay magnolias can thrive in boggy soil. The majority of magnolias do not like standing water and become drought tolerant when mature. Water newly planted trees two to three times a week. Plants may require additional watering during bloom periods. For finest flowering, provide six hours of direct sun exposure daily. Some cultivars prefer afternoon shade in hot climates, however the better light you give them, the better they'll bloom. Overall health of your tree depends on its hardiness zones. However, late cold snaps can damage buds and reduce flowering. Ideal temperatures for blooming fall between 60°F and and 75°F. Heat stress at 90°F can reduce flowers and shorten the bloom period. 5 Great Magnolia Trees Care Tips Magnolias make up the largest group of plants in the magnoliaceae family with as many as 340 species and numerous cultivars. These flowering trees and shrubs thrive in diverse environments with a wide range of bloom times, sizes, growth habits and flower color. Do your research and choose a magnolia variety suited to your climate and growing zone. Support flowering by adding compost or well-rotted manure in early spring. Or spread a balanced, slow release formula such as an NPK 10-10-10 out to the dripline. Protect early blooming varieties from late frost which may cause bud and flower loss. Lightly prune after flowering to remove dead or crossing branches. Hard pruning reduces flowering. Spent flowers usually drop making deadheading unnecessary. Mulch to protect shallow roots, retain soil moisture and discourage weeds.

Gardening

Why You Should Ditch Magnolias This Spring and Grow These 7 Flowers Instead

Magnolia trees are among the most popular flowering trees available, and it’s not hard to see why. Their large, showy blooms welcome spring every year, and their dense canopy of lush green leaves is often used to provide privacy or shade in landscapes. But not everyone enjoys these classic flowering trees, regardless of their beauty. They are known for being messy and requiring regular maintenance due to falling debris like leaves and petals. Magnolias also have shallow root systems, which can be a problem in areas that frequently experience severe weather events, as these trees can be more prone to damage. Additionally, if you’re on a quest to grow trees and plants native to the United States, unfortunately, magnolias don’t make the cut, says Anna Ohler, owner at Bright Lane Gardens. If you love the idea of a flowering tree but are not set on the upkeep that a magnolia tree may require, we’ve got you covered. Here are seven flowering trees to grow instead of magnolias that are just as beautiful, as recommended by gardening pros. Meet the Expert Anna Ohler is a plant and garden expert and co-owner of Bright Lane Gardens, a nursery just outside Lake Ann, Michigan. Ben Heusinkvelt is a land management professional and urban forester at Arbor Day Farm in Nebraska City, Nebraska. Lisa Tadewaldt is a tree care expert and the owner of Urban Forest Pro, a tree service company based in Portland, Oregon. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 01 of 07 Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) If you want a flowering tree that is also a native species, you can’t go wrong with the flowering dogwood (Cornus florida). These stunning trees boast delicate pink or white flowers in the spring, berries in the summer, and colorful fall foliage. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9 and are known for being relatively tidy, low-maintenance trees. The only downside? If you’re looking for a full-sun alternative to magnolias, flowering dogwoods probably aren’t the best fit. Ohler says most dogwood species prefer partial shade. 02 of 07 Crabapple (Malus spp.) Crabapples are a wildlife favorite, according to urban forester Ben Heusinkvelt. These small to medium-sized trees produce a spectacular display of flowers each year in the spring, followed by small tart fruits. There are many different species and cultivars to choose from, with several being native to North America if that’s your priority. These trees thrive in full-sun conditions, making them a great alternative to magnolias. “These cold hardy trees are drought tolerant once established and offer a flowering spectacle comparable to a magnolia," Heusinkvelt says. "One whiff of a blooming crabapple and you will be in love." 03 of 07 Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) Contrary to the name, Eastern redbuds (Cercis canadensis) produce light purple-pink blooms that create a dazzling display in the early weeks of spring. For the best show of blooms, Eastern redbuds should be grown in a bright, sunny location, although they can tolerate part shade as well. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8, with many cultivars. “There are many cultivars of the redbud, including weeping (Weeping Falls) and multi-colored foliage versions (Forest Pansy or Rising Sun)," Heusinkvelt says. "A lesser common variety is a white version known as simply a “Whitebud” (c. Canadensis.f alba.)." 04 of 07 Japanese Lilac Tree (Syringa reticulata) If you love lilac shrubs, Japanese lilac trees (Syringa reticulata) are a great choice. These unique ornamental trees are closely related to their shrubby cousins with creamy white blooms that are similar in form, but are known for blooming later, according to Heusinkvelt. Japanese lilacs grow best in full sun and are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7. 05 of 07 Serviceberry (Amelanchier) Another native variety to love is serviceberry (Amelanchier). This genus includes about twenty deciduous trees and shrubs native to North America. These plants offer year-round interest, with flowers appearing in the spring, colorful berries in the summer, and striking fall foliage as temperatures cool. “The only downside is the spring flower display doesn't last quite as long as the magnolia's display does, but since those flowers are replaced by berries, I still consider it a win overall!” Ohler says. While hardiness zones vary depending on the species, these trees are known for being very cold-hardy. Many varieties tolerate temperatures as low as -30 F. 06 of 07 Japanese Cherry (Prunus serrulata spp.) Aside from magnolias, few other blooming trees are as popular and well-known as Japanese cherries (Prunus serrulata spp.). These trees shine in spring, boasting stunning pink or white blossoms, depending on the variety. Many different species and cultivars are available, but the ‘Kanzan’ and ‘Sekiyama’ cultivars are undoubtedly two of the most popular choices for home landscapes. These trees thrive in cold winters and warm summers and are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8. 07 of 07 Crepe Myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) Magnolias are known and beloved for their large volume of blooms, so if you’re looking for a similarly prolific bloomer, crepe myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) may be your best choice. “A good runner-up as far as the number of blooms per tree is the Crepe Myrtle," says Lisa Tadewaldt, owner of Urban Forest Pro. "They [have] white or pink blooms in spring, depending on the variety." These small trees are known for growing best in warm climates, with most varieties being hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9. However, Tadewaldt says the white-blossomed Natchez variety is good for gardeners in colder regions.

Gardening

How to Pot a Germinated Date Seed the Right Way for Your Best Palm Ever

If you're a patient and adventurous gardener, why not grow a date palm (Phoenix canariensis) from seed? This slow-growing, evergreen palm is native to the Canary Islands and reaches 40 to 60 feet tall and 20 to 40 feet wide. If you're not in a tropical climate, it will be more compact if grown as a container plant that can summer outside on a patio and then be brought indoors when temperatures drop. Whether you are lucky enough to collect date palm seeds yourself or use seeds from ripe grocery store dates, we have all the information you need to germinate the seeds, pot them correctly, and grow a robust palm. Potting and Caring for Germinated Date Palm Seeds After your date palm seeds have germinated and begin to show tiny shoots above the potting soil, keep the soil evenly moist but not overly wet. Place the seedlings in a spot that receives bright sunlight for 6 to 8 hours per day. Wait until the seedling is at least three inches high with at least two sets of leaves before moving it to a larger pot. Pick a container. Select a container that is four to six inches in diameter with good drainage holes. Date palms prefer to be slightly rootbound for optimum growth so start with a small container after germination. Fill with soil. Fill the container about one-third full with nutrient-rich, loamy soil. Remove the germinated seed. Use a large spoon or garden trowel to gently lift the root ball of the germinated palm seed. Place the seed in soil. Place the palm in the container and fill it with soil tamping it down lightly to get rid of any air pockets. Water. Water the palm well until water drains from the bottom. Do not leave it sitting in a saucer of water. Move it to an ideal location. Place the palm in a brightly lit, warm spot (around 75°F) to recover from the shock of transplanting. The palm can be kept inside or outside depending on your hardiness zone and time of year. Always Start With a Container If you plan to plant the palm in your garden, it is still best to transplant germinated seeds into a container. Horticulturists recommend waiting until a date palm is around five feet tall before transplanting outside.1 Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Care for a Date Palm Give a container or garden-planted date palm six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Young palms should be watered at least weekly to keep the soil moist to encourage growth.2 Phoenix canariensis. North Carolina State University Extension Plant Toolbox. Once established, the palm will be more drought-tolerant. Potted palms will require more frequent watering, and drainage is important because standing water can cause root rot. When planting or potting, use a nutrient-rich, loose, loamy soil. Established date palms in the garden should be fertilized in early spring and again in mid-summer with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in potassium. Follow the label directions for the amount to use based on the size of the tree. Repot a date palm only when roots are visible through the drainage holes. Spring or early summer are the optimum times to repot because the temperatures are warmer and humidity is higher. Select a new container that is 2 inches wider and deeper. Gently remove the root ball from the container to prevent damaging the roots. Add fresh soil to the new container, place the palm, gently tamp down the soil, and water thoroughly. Date palms require little pruning except to remove dead or damaged fronds. Once the tree reaches maturity, suckers will grow from the base of the tree and should be removed. Once the tree begins to bear fruit, harvest the ripe dates so new clusters will have room to form. How to Germinate a Date Seed Separate the seed from the flesh of a ripe date. Place the seed in cool water and soak for at least 24 hours. Discard the seed if it floats to the top. Fill a small container with a seed-starting mix and moisten the soil. Press the seed into the soil until it is barely covered with soil. Place the container in a warm spot with bright light. Keep the soil moist by placing a glass jar or plastic bag over the container until germination occurs. The seed should germinate in about one month, at which point they should be potted.

Gardening

5 Trees You Should Never Plant Near Your Home, According to Arborists

There’s nothing like a well-placed tree to elevate your home’s curb appeal and provide shade, privacy, and structure to garden beds. However, some trees have invasive roots or weak limbs that are prone to breaking and commonly cause property damage when they’re planted near homes. In the guide below, you’ll discover the top five trees to avoid planting near homes and office buildings, and learn which trees to plant instead. Meet the Expert Alex Kasprzak is a certified arborist and owner of Elevated Tree Care tree removal and care services. Karen Manix is the co-owner of Walker Farm, a plant and tree nursery in Vermont. Kevin Cleveland is a certified arborist and the president of Tree Tech Inc. Willow Although they are visually stunning, it's not a great idea to plant a willow tree next to your home. “They have some of the most intrusive root systems, and their weak wood grain commonly causes branches to fail," says Alex Kasprzak of Elevated Tree Care. Their root systems mimic the look of their sprawling branches, and this can be a bad sign for any buildings planted nearby. “That root system can damage your home’s foundation, or roots may tunnel into septic systems in search of more water," says Karen Manix, co-owner of the Walker Farm plant and tree nursery. Alternative: River Birch or Weeping Beech Homeowners often choose willow trees due to their high water tolerance, but there are other water-loving trees to try. River birches, for instance, can handle wet areas, but their root systems are relatively shallow. Weeping beeches also have less aggressive roots and their trailing branches have all the charm of weeping willows. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Bradford Pear Bradford pears flower in spring and they’re commonly planted in gardens and along neighborhood streets. But these trees aren’t recommended by tree pros for proximity to buildings. “Bradford pears have poor branch structures, which makes them highly susceptible to limb failure,” says Kasprzak. “Their roots are mildly intrusive too.” Keeping Bradford pears away from your home can help you avoid some potential issues, but growing them at all can be tricky because they are considered invasive. Even when they’re planted in gardens, Bradford pear trees can escape into the wild and cause issues for native plants and wildlife. Avoiding these trees all together is the best way to limit their spread. Alternative: Serviceberry or Eastern Redbud Instead of growing invasive Bradford pears, look for native flowering trees like serviceberry or eastern redbud. These trees both provide food and shelter for native wildlife, and they look just as pretty as Bradford pears when they bloom in spring. Silver or Norway Maple Maple trees have a stunning disposition, and there's nothing more beautiful than watching their leaves turn in the fall. However, you have to be careful about which type you choose, lest you threaten your home with burrowing roots or falling branches. “Of the all members of the maple family, silver maples have the most intrusive roots,” warns Kasprzak. “They also have a fast growth rate that leads to weak branch attachments and increases the likelihood of fallen limbs.” Aside from silver maples, it’s also a good idea to avoid planting Norway maples. Like Bradford pears, Norway maples grow invasively in many areas and they can outcompete sugar maples and other native trees. Alternative: Red or Sugar Maple Red maples and sugar maples have a similar look to silver and Norway maples, but they pose fewer risks for homeowners. Not only are these trees native to North America, but red maples delight with fiery red autumn foliage and sugar maples are the best trees for maple sugaring. Ash Ash trees have a stately look and a dense canopy of leaves that supports an assortment of wildlife. But these trees are on the decline in many areas due to invasive emerald ash borers. These small, green beetles lay their eggs on ash tree bark and can cause even large trees to die in just a few years. “With the heavy infestation of emerald ash borers, it’s no longer advisable to plant ash trees,” says president of Tree Tech Inc. Kevin Cleveland. “If you do plant them, they’ll need immediate and consistent treatment to survive.” Alternative: Birch or Oak While emerald ash borers do a lot of damage, they generally aren’t interested in trees outside of the ash family. Birch and oak trees are usually safe from these voracious beetles, and have a similar look and feel to ash trees. Black Walnut Aside from willows and Bradford pears, Kasprzak had one last tree on his avoid list: black walnuts. “Branch failure is also common with these trees, and their roots are more invasive than most other deciduous trees,” says Kasprzak. Black walnut trees also release a toxic substance, known as juglone, into the soil, which keeps other plants from competing with black walnuts for space. Unfortunately, if juglone gets into your soil, it can make it hard to grow other ornamentals, and even interfere with the growth of edible crops like tomatoes. Alternative: Black Cherry or Staghorn Sumac The compound leaves of black cherries and staghorn sumacs have a similar look to black walnut tree leaves. However, these native plants don’t release juglone into the soil, and they attract finches and other wild birds.

Gardening

Now Is the Best Time to Fertilize Fruit Trees for Huge Harvests—How to Do It Like a Pro

Even in northern climates, homeowners can grow some of the most popular fruit trees in their own backyards, including pear, peach, plum, cherry, and apple trees. But for success in growing fruit trees, you will need to plan carefully and maintain them properly. Good planning will take into consideration the mature height of the tree so that it does not interfere with buildings, power lines, etc. Ensuring full sun and good drainage are two other aspects of sound site election. Once you have planted your fruit tree, supplying it with sufficient irrigation and fertilizer are two of the more important maintenance tasks. In this article, you will learn why, when, and how to fertilize fruit trees. Why Fertilize Fruit Trees? There are three reasons to fertilize fruit trees: For superior quantity in fruit production For superior quality in fruit production For the overall growth and health of the tree Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Is It Absolutely Necessary to Fertilize Fruit Trees? No, there are exceptions. If you are growing a fruit tree in soil that is already extremely fertile (have it tested to learn if it is lacking any nutrients), you may not have to fertilize until that fertility is depleted. When to Fertilize Your Fruit Tree Getting the timing right is very important when fertilizing fruit trees: The best time to fertilize fruit trees is in spring. Wait until about a week before the last frost date for your region. Fertilizing before that may result in a spurt of growth that will only be damaged by the frost. If you forget to fertilize in spring, the second best time to fertilize is in early summer. The worst time that you can fertilize fruit trees is in late summer or early fall. Fertilizing at this time would only promote new growth that will be killed when cold temperatures return. Do not fertilize a fruit tree at the same time as you are planting it. Wait till 3 weeks after planting , then you can lightly fertilize it with a chemical fertilizer. If you want to be ultra-careful, fertilize it with compost, instead.1 If your apple tree or pear tree is mature enough that it is bearing fruit, apply boron to it every three years.2 Have Your Soil Tested To have a soil test performed, you must obtain a small sample of the soil from around the base of your fruit tree. While you can perform the test at home, beginners may prefer to send the sample to their local county extension for a test. The pH level for fruit trees should be between 6 and 6.5. How to Fertilize Your Fruit Tree Don't think that effectively fertilizing a fruit tree is as easy as opening up a bag of fertilizer and pouring some out. Set aside a bit of time so that you can do the job right: Remove grass and weeds from around the tree: If you have any weeds (or grass) growing around your fruit tree, remove them. They will steal some of the fertilizer you will be putting down from your fruit tree. Clear away mulch: If you currently have any mulch around your tree, rake it away to expose the soil surface. For your safety: Wear gloves and goggles. Some fertilizers can irritate the skin or eyes. Obtain the fertilizer: Fertilizers with an NPK of 10-10-10 are widely used for fertilizing fruit trees. Granulated types are easier to work with than others. You don't need to use chemical fertilizers: Organic fertilizers are perfectly acceptable, as long as you are having your soil tested regularly to ensure that it has the nutrients your fruit trees need. Determine how much to apply: Measure the diameter of the fruit tree's trunk. This figure will be used to calculate how much fertilizer to use. Apply 1 pound of fertilizer for every inch of diameter. Common sense comes into play, too: The tree's performance will let you know if you are not using enough. Err on the side of too little. Using too much fertilizer may result in excessive vegetation, which causes the center of the tree to be shaded. The result can be disease (from too little air circulation) and reduced fruit production. Apply the fertilizer: One reason granulated fertilizers are easier to work with is you do not have to mix them with water to apply them. Broadcast the granulated 10-10-10 fertilizer evenly, starting 1 to 2 feet away from the trunk and ending where the tips of the branches extend to (the "drip line"). Rake the fertilizer: Gently rake the fertilizer into the soil. Mulch your fruit tree: Put back the mulch (if any) that you had raked away from the tree. Add new garden mulch to this. Aim to create a 3-inch layer of mulch in all. Keep the mulch 6 inches to a foot away from the base of the tree, depending on the size of the tree. Mulch will not only suppress weeds but also conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. Water: Water the area so that the fertilizer will sink into the ground.

Gardening

Why Basil Gets Spindly in Late Summer—and How to Fix It Fast for Bushier Plants

Harvesting fragrant basil leaves for use in dishes like pesto is one of the joys of summer for gardeners. But without the proper care and conditions, even a once-healthy basil plant can start to look a little worse for wear by late summer. Luckily, there are plenty of strategies to revive your basil plant and help it keep putting out new growth for you to enjoy for the rest of the season. Here's how to rescue a basil plant that has seen better days—and prevent it from getting leggy in the first place. Why Basil Gets Leggy in Late Summer Basil may grow tall and leggy in late summer for a few different reasons. Very hot weather encourages bolting, or the production of flowers and eventually seeds, which can draw energy away from leaf production. It's also possible that your basil has been struggling without enough light, causing it to become leggy and etiolated. Overfertilizing may also cause basil plants to grow too much too quickly, creating a tall, leggy growth habit. Another possible reason your basil plants get leggy in late summer could be a lack of regular pruning. Pinching back the tips of young plants and regularly harvesting stems from mature plants can create a fuller, bushier growth habit and encourage new growth. Signs Your Basil Needs a Midseason Rescue Lots of flowers but not much leaf growth. Basil's tiny purple or white flowers look pretty, but allowing the plants to bloom continuously can take energy away from growing more fragrant, tender leaves. Pinching off the flowers will help your basil redirect that energy to foliage. Providing consistent water during heat waves or periods of drought can help, too. Tall stems with lots of space between leaf nodes. If your basil plant is looking leggy and etiolated, it's not getting enough sunlight, hasn't been pruned regularly, or some combination of the two. Giving your plant at least six hours of full sun per day and pruning it regularly (read: harvesting this delicious herb) just above a leaf node will encourage fuller, bushier growth. Short, stubby stems. If you have been harvesting your basil regularly and cutting stems down to the lower nodes, new growth may look short and stubby for a while. Allow stems to grow at least 6 inches tall before harvesting again, and avoid removing more than about 30 percent of total plant growth during any one pruning session. How to Fix and Regrow a Leggy Basil Plant If your basil has already grown tall and leggy by late summer, don't fret—you can take steps to revitalize its growth and ensure a strong harvest through the end of the season. Start by evaluating your plant's light conditions and your watering habits. If your plant is potted and isn't receiving full sun, consider moving it to a sunnier spot. Be sure to water the plant on hot days with no rain. If your soil isn't particularly fertile or you haven't fertilized in a while, consider giving the plant a boost with a balanced fertilizer. Next, prune back your basil plant. Cut back leggy stems to just above a set of side shoots, which should grow more vigorously after pruning. Remember to remove no more than one-third of the total plant growth at any one time. Plan to prune your basil plant like this every two to three weeks going forward.

Gardening

Does Lavender Actually Repel Mosquitoes? Here’s What Works (and What Doesn’t)

Plenty of plants have a reputation for keeping mosquitoes away—including fragrant lavender, beloved for its easy-growing nature and aromatic foliage and flowers. But can you use lavender plants in your garden to keep your backyard bug-free? Here's how lavender can help protect you and your family from mosquitoes this summer. Does Lavender Repel Mosquitoes? Yes, lavender has the power to repel and even kill mosquitoes, according to peer-reviewed research studies. It's just one of several aromatic herbs, many of them in the mint family, that can be used to kill or ward off mosquitoes and other pesky insects. However, harnessing the bug-beating power of lavender isn't as simple as filling your garden with this fragrant flowering herb. Do Lavender Plants Repel Mosquitoes the Same As Lavender Essential Oil? Unfortunately, lavender plants don't have the same effects as lavender essential oil when it comes to keeping mosquitoes away. To be effective, herbs with anti-mosquito properties must be crushed to release their essential oils before they can help you enjoy a bug-free backyard. That means that the best way to get the benefits of lavender and other mosquito-repelling herbs is to use lotions, sprays, and other products that contain their essential oils and apply them to your skin or clothing.2 How to Grow and Care for Lavender Even if lavender plants won't keep mosquitoes away without some processing to harness their oils, you can still enjoy this low-maintenance herb in your garden for its aromatic leaves and edible purple flowers. Lavender is winter hardy in USDA zones 5-9. Plant this herb in spring, choosing a site that has well-drained soil and receives at least six to eight hours of full sun each day. Because lavender can grow well in sites with very dry, rocky, or poor soils, it may be a good candidate for areas of your garden where other plants don't thrive. Water young plantings regularly, but you can generally rely on rainfall to meet a mature lavender plant's water needs, except in the case of an extended drought or extremely hot temperatures. There's no need to fertilize lavender. Harvest lavender for use in cooking or body products before buds open. Cut back plants after they bloom to maintain the size and shape you prefer and encourage strong regrowth next season. Other Plants That Repel Mosquitoes Citronella grass: The citronella plant, famed for repelling mosquitoes, is actually a type of lemongrass. (Note that a lemony variety of scented geranium also called citronella is often confused for this plant.)3 Its essential oils are used in products like insect repellents and candles that target mosquitoes. Rosemary: The oils of this lavender relative are especially effective at killing mosquito larvae and somewhat effective at repelling adult mosquitoes in peer-reviewed studies. Peppermint: The same study found that peppermint oil is just as effective as lavender oil at killing adult mosquitoes and even more effective as a larvicide.1 Thyme: The essential oils of thyme can be an effective ingredient in mosquito repellents. Safely burning bundles of dried thyme outdoors can also help keep mosquitoes away. Sage: Another herb to look for on ingredient labels of natural mosquito repellent products is sage. You can also try burning bundles of dried sage or adding them to an outdoor fire pit or chiminea to boost the smoke's repellent properties.4 Catnip: This relative of mint contains nepetalactone, an essential oil that was shown in one peer-reviewed study to repel species of mosquitoes that often act as disease vectors.

Gardening

Never Harvest Your Herbs at This Time of Day, Garden Pros Warn—It Will Ruin the Flavor

Whether you have a full bed of rosemary, oregano, and mint or are growing a mini edible herb garden in pots, there' a specific methodology in retaining flavor and freshness that comes down to the time of day you harvest. We spoke with two experts to understand the worst time of day to harvest herbs, and how to set your harvesting schedule up for success when it comes to timing. Meet the Expert Sara Rubens is a certified garden coach and founder of Seed to Sanctuary, a company that supports people in becoming proficient gardeners. Edwin Dysinger is an expert gardener and the co-founder of the garden planning app Seedtime. The Worst Time to Harvest Herbs The worst time to harvest herbs is in the afternoon, especially during the summer when the day hits its hottest point. "This is when the sun is strongest and the plants are under the most stress," says gardening coach Sara Rubens. "During this time, essential oils—which are responsible for the herb’s aroma and flavor—tend to dissipate due to the heat." In doing so, you potentially lose out on a lot of their unique taste and won't be able to experience the plant at its best. However, there is a single exception to the rule. "If your goal is longer shelf life, rather than greater potency and flavor, it is ideal to harvest from mid-day to afternoon," says expert gardener Edwin Dysinger. "This is because during the day, as the herbs photosynthesize, they manufacture carbohydrates (sugars) as a byproduct. Higher carbohydrate levels in the leaves result in better post-harvest storage." On extremely hot summer days, you may still need to adjust your harvesting time to earlier. Even if you're planning for storage as opposed to using right away, the sun can scorch or wilt the leaves. Best Time to Harvest Herbs The best time to harvest your herbs is in the morning, just after the dew has dried and before the sun gets too hot. While your culinary and DIY endeavors will benefit from the exceptional flavor, there are a few other reasons for this. "In addition to having higher levels of essential oils in the morning, levels of vitamins, antioxidants, and polyphenols are also higher and decrease as the day progresses with prolonged exposure to the sun," says Dysinger. How to Harvest Herbs for Maximum Flavor Now that you have the time of day down, there are a few other factors to consider for an optimal harvest. Dysinger notes that for leafy herbs that eventually flower, it's best to harvest before those blooms appear. Not only will it impact the taste if they flower, but leave production will decrease, too. "Regular picking of leaves will help to prolong the time before flowering," he says. "If you want to do a larger harvest for preservation and storage, leave between one-half and two-thirds of the plant intact. This will enable it to have the strength to regrow quickly for more harvests." Well-timed plucking and harvesting are imperative, as is giving your herbs the best possible growing conditions. Ruben notes that well-draining soil, ample sunlight, and the right levels of water are key—and so is pruning. "Regular pruning encourages bushier growth and more tender leaves," she says. If you have cooler patches around your garden, consider bringing in some herbs that grow in shade, like cilantro or sweet cicely. Don't forget to take a look at herb companion plants for successful growth and to overwinter your plants so you can keep the cycle going next season. 5 Tips for Flavorful Herbs Here are a few expert-approved tips for keeping your herbs full of flavor: Harvest in the morning. Do so after the dew dries and before the sun reaches its peak. This will retain flavor, antioxidants, and oils. Watch the fertilizer. Ruben notes that too much fertilizer can dilute the flavor of herbs too. "Growing herbs in nutrient-rich but not overly fertile soil, and harvesting them at the right time, will help ensure they’re flavorful and aromatic," she says. Understand your herbs' needs. Make sure that they're receiving the right amount of light or shade, water, and nutrients; even herbs that love the sun might need shade on extremely hot days. Prevent bolting. Don't allow certain herbs (like basil) to flower if you intend to harvest—this can put a damper on the taste. Know your herb. Learn which parts are edible for each herb type you have. You'll be able to make the most of every bit of flavor this way.

Gardening

Are You Harvesting Your Oregano the Right Way? What to Know Before Your Next Batch

Bursting with flavor, oregano adds a robust dimension to dishes and carries health benefits. How and when you harvest your herb can greatly affect its flavor and health in the long run. Learn when and how to harvest oregano for the best results possible. Meet the Expert Lindsay Etemadipour is a holistic herbalist and the founder of Symbi. What Is Oregano? Oregano is an herb often used for cooking and as an antioxidant for health benefits. Its pronounced flavor is often described as herby, peppery, and minty, with an underlying faint bitterness. As a perennial, oregano will continue to grow year after year without replanting.1 Oregano's name is derived from the Greek, and it means "beauty of the mountain;" oregano can be grown for its appearance, developing small purple flowers that bloom during summer. Left unharvested, oregano can reach up to three feet high. Different Types of Oregano Oregano has 45 species, but a few types are used most often:1 Common oregano (Origanum vulgare): This popular type of oregano is frequently used in tomato sauces and on pizza. It pairs well with basil and thyme. Golden oregano (Origanum vulgare 'Aureum'): Golden oregano has a milder taste than common oregano. It is often used as an ornamental plant due to its yellow foliage and pink and purple flowers. Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens): Mexican oregano has a more lemony-minty flavor than common oregano, since it's closely related to the mint family. Though its taste is strong, the bitterness is lessened, making it a staple of Southwest and Mexican dishes. When to Harvest Oregano Oregano should be harvested during the growing season, right before or when the flowers have developed.2 Harvest in mid-morning, after dew has evaporated but before heat picks up. The growing season for oregano varies, but in many areas, it is from spring to early summer. Common Pests Though oregano is relatively pest-resistant, watch for aphids, spider mites, and thrips. Harvesting Fresh vs. Dried Oregano While milder herbs like cilantro, basil, and parsley taste better fresh than dried, oregano's bold flavor carries through into dried form. "I keep both [fresh and dried oregano] stocked for different reasons," says herbalist Lindsay Etemadipour. She prefers fresh oregano for concentrated flavor—like as a garnish for salads and pizzas—and dried oregano for soups, stews, and sauces. Harvesting Oregano for Fresh Use When harvesting oregano, snip off the tops of the stems. The stems include the leaves that will be removed for use. Below, leave at least four to six pairs of leaves per stem; this helps the oregano produce more leaves for future harvesting. "When harvesting oregano, you want to focus on three things: time of day, frequency, and maturity," Etemadipour says. "First, you want to ensure that you wait until oregano is about to flower, but not after it flowers. Once the plant flowers, the leaves will start to become bitter." Choosing the best time of day for harvesting is also critical. Harvest mid-morning, after nighttime dew has dried but before the day's heat picks up. "The herb's flavor is most potent at this time due to the oils," Etemadipour says. Be sure to use sharp scissors or pruners, and cut about a third of the way down the stem to encourage it to re-shoot later on. Companion Plants Oregano and basil can be planted together, as they work together to keep mosquitoes, spider mites, aphids, and pests away. Harvesting Oregano for Dried Use Harvesting oregano for dried use is similar to harvesting for fresh use, with a couple of differences. Harvest a few more leaves, and choose stems that are about to flower. Bundle them and hang upside down in a warm, dry area. Give the bundles at least a week to dry out entirely, and then pack into airtight containers until you need to use it. How to Care for Oregano After Harvesting After harvesting, it's important to care for oregano to enable regrowth and for the oregano plant's continued health. "Regular harvesting helps keep the plant healthy and producing," Etemadipour says. "I usually harvest when the plant stems are about five inches tall. This will guarantee a few harvests a season." Water and fertilizer are important, as well as regularly cutting back any flowered stems. Tips for Harvesting Oregano Pick the right time of day, usually mid-morning. Snip the leaves rather than pulling them off by hand. Prune (or harvest) oregano to maintain health, even if you don't plan to consume the herb. Bundle the snipped stems with a rubber band, placing the band on the snipped end. If pruning for plant health only, prune aggressively: as low as 2 to 3 inches.3 For cooking use, harvest oregano around two times per year.3 Rinse the oregano right after harvesting to give it time to air-dry before use.

gardening

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