gardening

Gardening

Should You Let Your Coneflower Go to Seed? Why Gardeners Say It Depends on Your Garden Goals

Key Points Letting coneflowers go to seed supports natural reseeding, saving you the hassle of replanting. Dried seed heads act like a self-sustaining bird feeder, attracting and feeding goldfinches, sparrows, and other birds through fall and winter. Coneflower seed heads add texture and seasonal charm to your garden’s autumn look. If you've been maintaining your coneflowers all season long and aren't sure what to do next, we asked pro gardeners to weigh in on whether you should let them seed or not. They share everything you need to know when it comes to seeding and all the benefits that come along with it, so you can have a flourishing garden for next year. Meet the Expert Edwin Dysinger is the co-founder of Seedtime, a garden planning and management app. JoJami Tyler is a certified Gardenary coach and founder of Fancy Pants Gardens. Tracy Smith is an outdoor green goods buyer for Terrain. Should You Let Coneflowers Seed? Yes, you should let your coneflowers seed, as there are many great benefits that come with it after the gardening season is over, our gardening pros say. Letting them go to seed is the process of letting the central cone dry out, which will become dark and spiky to the touch, Tracy Smith, an outdoor green goods buyer for Terrain, explains. "Coneflowers, also known as Echinacea, are wonderful additions to your garden; however, they are prolific and if allowed to go to seed, will naturally reseed themselves, often returning the next season with even greater vigor," JoJami Tyler, a certified Gardenary coach and founder of Fancy Pants Gardens, says. All the Benefits of Seeding Your Coneflowers The seeds are a valuable food source for birds. Coneflower seeds provide forage for wildlife, especially birds, during the fall and winter time, Edwin Dysinger, the co-founder of Seedtime, explains. "The seeds are a magnet for birds, especially goldfinches in late summer and fall, helping sustain local wildlife. It’s like having a natural birdfeeder that you never have to maintain," Tyler says. Other bird types you can expect to see are sparrows, towhees, and finches, Smith says. They'll reappear next year. If you're looking to have coneflowers in your garden the following year, letting them seed will allow them to naturally grow without the worry of replanting. Tyler explains how this is a great method for filling in gaps in the garden with hardy blooms, especially if you have a lot of space to cover. Visual aesthetic. Smith explains how the texture and color of the dark seed heads will create an attractive visual aesthetic to the garden, especially as we approach fall. How to Help Your Coneflowers Seed Leave the seed heads intact. After your coneflowers have flowered, don't deadhead them, Tyler says. Instead, she recommends letting the blooms dry out and form seed heads. " In autumn, as the flower fades, seeds will mature and begin to drop," Tyler explains. Distribute seeds manually. Once they're dry, collect the mature seed heads and separate them by gently rubbing. Then, scatter them over your soil and gently water, Tyler says. "Seeding in the fall is especially helpful because it allows the seeds to naturally cold stratify on their own. But it can also be done in the spring once soil temperatures have reached 65°F or more," Dysinger says. Cover them lightly. Since coneflower seeds are tiny and need some light to properly germinate, Tyler suggests slightly pressing or sprinkling the soil on top instead of burying them deeply. How to Seed Coneflowers Indoors Sow the seeds. Dysinger recommends sowing the seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost using a good, moist soil mix. Either minimally cover or don't cover the seeds at all for proper germination. Let them germinate. The germination process will take around 10-20 days, so make sure there's enough light. Transplant outdoors. Once the seedlings have two to three true leaves and there's no danger of frost, move them outdoors.

Gardening

How to Make Cosmos Bloom Again (and Again) Before Summer Is Officially Over

Key Points Take a quick garden walk to spot watering or pruning needs. Don’t panic—most stressed plants can bounce back with care. Check for pests that may have moved in while you were away. Unfussy cosmos are a low-maintenance landscaper lover’s dream. They don’t need much help to produce a profusion of colorful, pollinator-friendly blooms. However, if you're growing cosmos and they’re only producing a few flowers or they suddenly stop blooming in the height of summer, you might be making some simple mistakes in terms of care or conditions. Here’s how to make your cosmos bloom again (and again) right through summer to the first fall frost. Why Cosmos Stop Blooming in Late Summer Various culprits could be causing your cosmos flowers to fade or fail to rebloom as summer progresses. Aside from not tidying spent flowers, neglecting to adjust your care to account for seasonal changes can be a blight on blooms. Too much shade, excessive fertilizer or water, and lack of respite from intense heat waves can all slow down or stop cosmos from blooming. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 7 Ways to Make Cosmos Bloom Again To ensure your cosmos have a second wind when it comes to flowering, try these tricks. Deadhead spent flowers: When the first flush of flowers fades, cut the stem with sterile shears above the first leaves to promote new bud formation. This keeps your plant focused on flower production. Pick the best yard position: Cosmos are sun-lovers that need a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of full sun to produce plenty of big blooms. Protect during heatwaves: Temperatures above 95°F will stress your cosmos and pause blooming. If you live in a heatwave-prone region, consider growing cosmos in containers. That way, you can move them to a cooler when the mercury rises. Pinch for productive plants: When your young cosmos reach 8 to 10 inches tall, use clippers to remove the top of the stem, leaving just a few sets of leaves. This encourages more branches and blooms. Weigh up your watering habits: Cosmos are drought-tolerant plants that don’t appreciate soggy soils. Avoid overwatering, letting the soil dry fully between irrigations. Avoid overfertilization: These plants thrive in poor soils and don’t require feeding when grown in the ground. A balanced, slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer is best for container-grown cosmos. Too much nitrogen means the plant will focus on leaf rather than bloom production. Prune to promote air circulation: Fungal diseases, like fusarium wilt and powdery mildew, can cause problems with cosmos bud drop and bloom development. Don’t plant seedlings too close, prune vigorously branching leaves, and water plants at the base. Avoid artificial light: If you have security lights on all night in your yard, this can cause issues as cosmos need 12 hours of darkness to start blooming. 3 Signs Your Cosmos Will Rebloom After taking steps to remedy an unexpected pause in blooming, these subtle clues could be a sign that a flurry of fresh flowers are on the way. New bud formation: Can you see new, small, round swellings at the tips of your plant’s stems? This means that new blooms are forming. Fresh growth: Stressed plants stop or slow their leaf production and can experience stunted growth. If you see signs of new leaves growing and your plant is putting on a growth spurt, that’s a good sign. Plant perks up: A wilting plant that has too much sun or the wrong amount of water will start to become more upright as it recovers its vigor. How to Keep Cosmos Blooming Until Frost Now that you’ve got the blooms back on track, continue to make the most of the flowers until the first frosts arrive by watering deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to dry out in between waterings. Watch for pests, such as aphids, slugs, and spider mites, to proactively prevent bloom-limiting infestations. Plus, provide shelter from strong winds to help protect tall cosmos varieties when staking isn’t enough.

Gardening

5 Common Flowers You Should Plant in August for More Blooms All Through Fall

Key Points Plant hardy fall bloomers like violas and asters to keep your garden blooming into cooler months. Choose blooming fuchsia for instant color that lasts through October or longer. These low-maintenance plants add color and charm to any fall garden or outdoor space. After reaping the benefits of beautiful blooms all summer, fall's the reality check we're not quite ready for: cooler temperatures and saying goodbye to our favorite flowers. With summer finally winding down, you may be looking to extend your gardening season as much as possible—and fall doesn't have to be the end. Luckily, we reached out to a garden pro to find out the top five flowers to plant right now for stunning blooms all fall long, and they did not disappoint. Meet the Expert Melissa Quinney is a garden expert and garden writer at Cabin Master, a United Kingdom-based fully-insulated garden room installation company. Winter-Flowering Violas These beautiful orange and purple flowers are excellent for creating fall colour, especially due to their tough nature and the way they’re able to bloom from autumn to winter with minimal attention, according to garden expert Melissa Quinney. "While they may look delicate, they are incredibly resilient," Quinney says. "Upon planting in August, gardeners can expect blooms within two to three weeks, and in milder climates, their blooms typically last well into winter.” USDA Zone: 3–8 Color Varieties: Purple, orange, white, blue, yellow, red Mature Size: 4–10 in. tall, 4–10 in. wide Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Asters “While the aster is often overlooked in favour of other plants, like chrysanthemums, its daisy-like blooms in shades of purple and pink are excellent for brightening up fall gardens and attracting pollinators later into the year," Quinney says. If the plant is already established once planted, then blooms should appear within one to two weeks. If you plant asters from seed, then germination can take up to three weeks, with another six weeks until blooming. USDA Zone: 3-8 Color Varieties: Purple, pink, blue, white Mature Size: 1–6 ft. tall, 1–4 ft. wide Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Fuschia If you're looking to add fuchsia to your garden for some fall flair, Quinney suggests planting your fuchsia while they're already in flower rather than planting from seed. Fuchsia grown from seed is unlikely to bloom in its first year, so planting one already in flower ensures a wow-worthy fall display. “When choosing a Fuchsia plant for a fall garden, it's important to look for its hardy variety," Quinney shares. "Perfect for planting near seating areas or outside garden rooms, hardy fuchsias can thrive well into fall with gorgeous pendant flowers in reds, purples, and pinks." USDA Zone: 10-11 Color Varieties: Red, pink, white, violet, purple Mature Size: 1 to 2 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide Penstemons Penstemons are hardy perennial plants with trumpet-shaped flowers that will keep blooming into autumn. If you plant penstemons when they're already flowering, they will bloom immediately and can continue to bloom until your area's first frost. "One of the major perks of having this plant in the garden is that it is drought-tolerant and doesn’t require much maintenance at all, helping it survive through fall," Quinney says. USDA Zone: 3-8 Color Varieties: Purple, blue, orange, red, yellow, pink, white Mature Size: 6 in. to 8 ft. tall and 8 to 20 in. wide Abelia x Grandiflora This semi-evergreen shrub has long-blooming, fragrant flowers in white, pink, and peach tones—and its foliage turns a stunning bronze shade in the fall. "It excels so well in the autumn because it’s low maintenance, and it provides great structure and colour later on in the year," Quinney says. "If planted while flowering, the Abelia x grandiflora will bloom from August through to fall, and its beautiful flowers and foliage display can last into October or November.” USDA Zone: 6 to 9 Color Varieties: pink, peach, white Mature Size: 4 to 6 feet

Gardening

Is It Too Late to Cut Back Hydrangeas? Everything You Need to Know Before Risking Next Year’s Blooms

New wood hydrangeas can be cut in late fall to early spring; old wood types should only be cut right after blooming. Trimming old wood hydrangeas too late removes next year’s buds, so timing is key to avoid losing flowers. Pruning isn’t required, but helps shape the plant, boost growth, and prevent leggy, untidy stems. The abundant, round blooms of hydrangeas are a classic sight of summer. Their blue, pink, and purple flowers are a cheerful and reliable perennial that seems to quickly sprout out of nothing but bare sticks in spring. After the bloom season is over, you've probably seen gardeners cut hydrangeas all the way back to the ground; when is it too late to cut back hydrangeas? And do you need to cut hydrangeas back at all? Here's exactly what you need to know about when to cut back your hydrangeas and when it's too late to prune hydrangeas. The Best Time of Year to Prune Hydrangeas Most hydrangeas benefit from some pruning to help them keep their classic round, bushy shape, but not every hydrangea should be cut back all the way to the ground. It all depends on the type of hydrangea you have growing in your garden. Some hydrangeas are new wood hydrangeas: These bloom on new wood each season, and their buds won't form until spring, weeks ahead of their summer bloom season. Old wood hydrangeas actually produce their blooms seasons ahead of the iconic summer flowers. Those buds could first appear in fall or winter, meaning a hard prune could accidentally remove all of the potential blooms for the next summer. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! New Wood Hydrangeas New wood hydrangeas include panicle (peegee) hydrangeas and smooth hydrangeas. Because these hydrangeas don't form their blooms until the spring—just before their summer flowering season—you have more flexibility in when you choose to prune. If you want to get rid of the old blooms and dead leaves during the winter, then that is a great time to cut back your hydrangeas ahead of the spring growing season. However, you can also wait until spring as long as you prune before the first summer buds appear. When you're pruning, you can cut as far as roughly a foot above the ground. However, be sure not to prune too close to the ground or you could end up damaging the plant. Old Wood Hydrangeas Old wood hydrangeas are much more finicky when it comes to pruning. These include oakleaf hydrangeas, climbing hydrangeas, and big leaf hydrangeas. Old wood hydrangeas bloom on old wood; rather than growing an entirely new shrub each year, they grow back on the same stems. Their buds begin to form in the late summer, nearly a year before their bloom season. This means your ideal time to prune is short-lived; prune your old wood hydrangeas right after summer's blooms have faded. Wait too long, and you could risk trimming off next year's blooms. Visual test To determine whether it's too late to prune your hydrangeas, make a small cut into a stem. If you see green, leave it be. If you see brown, cut it down. Why Do You Need to Prune Hydrangeas? Hydrangeas do not actually need to be pruned in terms of their own health and maintenance. For old wood hydrangeas, pruning helps to keep a more compact shape. If you don't prune them (and you don't have to), they'll grow taller each year. If you do not prune at all, the hydrangea will eventually become leggy, with woody stems reaching out in every direction. Blooms may also become smaller. Pruning new wood hydrangeas helps stimulate growth for the following season, as well as clean up the plant to keep it neat and tidy. Again, pruning is not necessary, but it will give your hydrangeas a more tailored look. How to Prune Hydrangeas Different hydrangeas have different requirements for how to prune, and, while there are some varieties have specific nuances around pruning, they can generally be split into old wood versus new wood. How to Prune Old Wood Hydrangeas Here's how to prune old wood hydrangeas in summer after the blooms have faded. Prune spent blooms: Remove any dried blooms to keep the plant looking tidy. Remove dead stems: Nick stems to see if they are alive (green inside) or dead (brown inside). Remove the dead stems. Prune for shape: The only time to remove stems with blooms is when you're pruning for shape to keep your hydrangea from getting too tall, leggy, or wide. How to Prune New Wood Hydrangeas Here's how to prune new wood hydrangeas ahead of their growth season in the spring. Remove dead branches: Remove any dead branches. These can be cut down to the ground. Prune for shape: New wood hydrangeas will grow back fully year after year, but you can also prune for shape with a light trimming. Prune back hard-to-encourage growth: If you want to encourage the largest blooms and most growth, prune back the hydrangea to just a foot off the ground. You might feel like you're pruning too far, but you're not—it will grow back.

Gardening

Don’t Let Wilting Zinnias Ruin Your Garden—Here’s How to Save Them Fast

When your zinnias droop, it puts a dent in your garden decor. Zinnias are usually reliable and easy to care for, blooming all summer long with single and double flowers in bright, bold colors. But if flowers sag atop the stems, you have a case of wilt. Here are six reasons why zinnias wil,t with solutions to restore your patch to top form. Overwatering Too much water causes zinnias to turn brown and soggy. Flower heads droop, and plants may topple over. Fungal diseases may appear as brown or water-soaked spots on leaves. Root rot can set in, causing plant loss. Solution: Let overwatered plants dry out completely, then resume a reduced watering schedule. Remove soggy leaves and flower heads to encourage new, healthy growth. Avoid overwatering by testing the soil before watering. Plant zinnias where they'll receive full sun and amend the soil to improve drainage. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Underwatering Without sufficient water, leaves and stems turn pale, then brown and crispy, and shrivel up. Plants may fail to bloom or produce small flowers. The entire plant takes on a wilted look and, if left too long, will dry up and die. Solution: During extended periods of hot, dry weather, water deeply once a week or more often as needed. Zinnias are drought-tolerant once established but perform best in consistently moist, well-draining soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Plan to provide an inch of water weekly, especially during blooming. Aphids These tiny parasitic pests multiply rapidly, puncturing leaves and stems to feed on plant liquid. When aphids target your zinnias, plants become stunted with curling, wilted foliage that drops prematurely. Infestations interrupt photosynthesis and can lead to plant loss. Aphids leave behind a sweet substance called 'honeydew' that attracts ants. If you see ants on your zinnias, check for aphids. Solution: Get rid of aphids with a strong spray from your garden hose or apply insecticidal soap or neem oil. Inspect plants regularly, especially during hot, dry weather. Companion plant with marigolds, garlic, and chives. Avoid over-fertilizing and encourage beneficial predators like lady beetles and lacewings. Stalk Borers When your zinnias seem to wilt down overnight, the culprit is likely a stalk borer. Common borers are larvae of small brown moths. They tunnel into plant stems, causing sudden wilt, deformities, and eventual plant loss. Larvae hatch in spring, feeding on grasses, then moving on to larger plants like your zinnias as they mature. The gray caterpillars grow up to 1 1/2-inches long. Solution: Prevention is key because once a borer is inside the stem, treatment is ineffective. Remove affected stems, and bag or burn them. Keep your zinnia bed and surrounding areas free of weeds and grasses. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season. BT (Bacillus thurengienses) is a biological control that destroys caterpillars and can be used as pre-treatment. Alternaria Blight Alternaria zinneae is a fungal disease that manifests as reddish brown leaf spots with gray centers on both upper and lower surfaces. As the lesions increase, leaves turn brown, and the entire plant darkens and wilts. Spots can girdle plant stems and appear on flower petals. Solution: Prevention is the most effective approach. Watch for signs in mid-summer and autumn. If disease sets in, pull plants and bury or burn them to avoid future contamination. Rotate your zinnia bed and avoid overhead watering. Look for resistant varieties and pretreat seeds in a hot water bath for 30 minutes. Protect plants with copper-based fungicides. Heat Stress Heat stress occurs when temperatures remain consistently hot, causing leaf curl, scorching, and wilting. Plants may cease blooming or produce small flowers. Solution: Zinnias bounce back quickly with corrective treatment. Avoid overcrowding. Large plants need 18 inches of space, while most dwarf varieties need 12 inches for adequate air circulation. Water deeply at ground level in the morning or evening. Mulch plants to cool the soil and provide some afternoon shade. How to Keep Your Zinnias From Wilting Plant zinnias in full sun in well-draining soil. Aim for an inch of water each week, but prepare to adjust your watering schedule during heavy rains or periods of drought. Water deeply at ground level during cooler parts of the day. Check regularly for signs of pests or disease and treat preventively when necessary.

Gardening

This Is the Next "It" Flower That's Going to Be Everywhere, According to Florists

If you're anything like me, you love filling your home with flowers whenever you get the chance. While roses and tulips are beautiful classics; it never hurts to take notice of trends to potentially find a new floral favorite. We spoke with John Beach, a florist for BloomNation and the COO of Dolce Blooms in Studio City, California, to get some insight on the next mainstream flower for 2026. "I think the protea is going to have a serious moment in 2026," Beach explains. "There’s a growing appreciation for flowers with character—ones that aren’t necessarily “pretty” in the traditional sense, but are striking, wild, or even prehistoric-looking. The protea checks that box.'" Keep reading to learn more about proteas and why they are likely to show up in bouquets and floral arrangements everywhere next year. Meet the Expert John Beach is a florist for BloomNation and the COO of Dolce Blooms in Studio City, California The Next Mainstream Flower for 2026: Protea Proteas are evergreen shrubs that thrive best in hot, dry climates. The blooms are goblet-shaped, featuring a center of fuzzy or tubular flowers surrounded by stiff, spikey bracts. These unique flowers often appear in bold, bright colors and add a striking addition to any floral arrangement. Beach explains why he believes more people will be drawn toward proteas in the upcoming year: "It’s bold, architectural, and makes a statement—perfect for a culture craving individuality and drama in design," Beach says. "As aesthetics keep shifting toward maximalism and texture-driven florals, the protea’s sculptural quality and otherworldly beauty fit the mood." Beach also notes that this flower will be ideal for those who are focused on sustainability. The plant is drought-tolerant, and cut blooms can last for weeks, making it an excellent choice for decorating your home or for special events. If you're looking to make the blooms last even longer, proteas look just as stunning when dried, allowing you to create a memorable keepsake or provide an alternative decorative choice. Boldness and sustainability aren't the only reasons why proteas are capturing designers' attention. The flower's adaptability is also a major upside. "It appeals to both minimalists (as a singular, impactful element) and maximalists (as the star of a colorful, texture-heavy show). It’s also gender-neutral, which is increasingly important for brands and events embracing inclusivity," Beach says. Colors and Types of Protea Flowers to Watch For The protea is one of the oldest known species of plants, and comes in many varieties and colors. While there are many options to choose from, Beach believes that a few will steal the spotlight. "Blush-toned king protea and the golden-orange tones of the pincushion protea are likely to dominate," Beach explains. "Blush continues to reign in wedding palettes, but the golden-orange hues feel fresh and sun-soaked, aligning with the rise of retro, desert, and terracotta tones we’re seeing in fashion and interiors." While king proteas and pincushion proteas are the most well-known varieties, other popular choices include queen proteas, pink ice proteas, and the aptly named "blushing bride" protea. How to Decorate With Proteas Because proteas are such unique, striking flowers, Beach recommends not going overboard when using them to decorate and approaching a less is more mentality. "Treat the protea like a celebrity guest in your arrangement. It doesn’t need a lot of supporting cast to shine," Beach says. For decorating in your home, Beach recommends something simple, like a single stem in a sculptural vase on a coffee table or entryway. This approach creates a significant impact with minimal effort and can work well in any area where you want to draw attention. When decorating for events, Beach recommends clustering them at the center of low bowls or using them as an anchor for larger arrangements. When decorating for a wedding or event, you can get a little more creative with your arrangements. "They also hold up incredibly well in installations like arches or hanging clouds, especially in outdoor or warm settings," Beach says. It's worth noting that proteas are toxic to humans and animals if consumed, so display your arrangements out of reach from children and pets.

Gardening

How Often to Water Your Petunias—4 Rules a Gardener Swears By

Grow them in pots, planters, or straight in your garden and petunias will reward you with big, bold flowers that just don’t quit. But if you want these colorful plants to keep on blooming from spring through fall, it’s important to water them right and just when they need it. Whether you’re new to growing petunias or just want to take your plants to the next level, this petunia watering guide is packed with expert tips on how and when to water petunias for peak flowering and healthier plants. Meet the Expert Cynthia Haynes, PhD. is a professor of horticulture at the Iowa State University. Eva Ward oversees the annual greenhouse team at Ward’s Nursery. Signs Your Petunias Need Watering Petunias wilt quickly if they don’t get enough water, and drop leaves, turn brown, and die back if their soil gets super dry. But you don’t need to wait for your plants to show signs of stress to know it’s time to water them: Just take a good hard look at the soil they’re growing in. “Petunias don’t like to stay wet for long periods, so check the soil first before watering,” says horticulture professor Cynthia Haynes. “Just scratch around the top inch of soil with your fingers to see if it’s dry, or lift smaller containers to check their weight. Then, water when the top inch of soil dries out or the container feels light.” Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! When Is the Best Time to Water Petunias? Like other plants, petunias absorb water best if you water them in the morning or in the evening a little before sunset. If you water petunias when the sun is high overhead, it can increase the amount of water that’s lost to evaporation and make it harder for your plants to absorb the water they need. That said, if your plants look stressed, it's better to water them right away than wait until morning. “Petunias are heavy drinkers and don’t recover well if the soil gets too dried out,” says plant expert Eva Ward. “Don’t wait for petunias to droop—water stress opens plants up to pests and many other problems.” How Often to Water Your Petunias Petunias should be watered often enough to keep their soil evenly moist, but not so frequently that their roots get waterlogged and start to rot. Exactly how often to water petunias can vary depending on the season, the size of your plants, the temperature, and the pots your petunias are growing in. “Watering frequency could be every 2 to 3 days, or daily if it’s a large plant in a hanging basket in full sun,” says Ward. “For larger patio containers, always keep the soil surface moist and use a lightweight mulch like buckwheat hulls to prevent evaporation.” Petunias growing in the garden will typically require less water than potted plants and may only need to be watered once a week. But this watering frequency can also vary, so always test the soil with your finger before you water. The Right Way to Water Your Petunias There’s no one-size-fits-all watering schedule for petunias. But in general, you’ll need to water petunias less in spring and more when temperatures rise and the plants fill out in summer. Being flexible with watering and following these simple tips will help you avoid underwatering or overwatering your plants and encourage petunias to flower more. Water Deeply “When watering, water deeply,” advises Ward. “And make sure the soil is fully moist and that excess water drains out of planter drainage holes.” The best way to do this is to water low and slow with your hose or a drip irrigation system. Deep, slow watering allows water to penetrate well into the soil around petunia roots and can keep gardens and planters from drying out too quickly. Keep Leaves Dry Like other plants, petunias can develop mildew issues if their leaves stay wet too long. To avoid this, water your plants in the morning and direct water to the soil line to keep it from splashing up on your plant's leaves. Don’t Overdo It Don’t be tempted to water petunias if their soil still feels wet. Overwatering is a surefire way to stress out your plants and cause petunias to wilt, yellow, or die from rot. Add Fertilizer “You’ll get the best flowers if you use a blossom booster liquid fertilizer with every other watering all season," Ward says. "Or if you prefer a slow-release granular blossom booster, scratch that into the soil surface around petunias in mid-June, mid-July, and mid-August.” Applying fertilizer when the soil is already moist helps petunias absorb it faster and can prevent fertilizer burn.

Gardening

7 Flowers You Should Plant Right Now for Blooms That Will Last Until December (or Longer)

We all know that it's pretty hard to maintain a flourishing garden and yard in the hot summer months. But of course, some outliers do bloom amongst the sunshine and continue to grow throughout the fall and winter months. Read on to see which plants you should grow now that will last until December. Pansies Pansies are a beautiful flower that you can typically plant in the late summer or early fall. They tend to like partial sun and partial shade, and don't appreciate too much warmth. This is why they are the perfect flower to plant if you want to have a yard full of blooms in the winter. These beauties flourish in 40°F to 60°F temperatures and will add a ton of pops of color to your garden. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best-growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Dahlias Dahlias are another kind of flower that should last until December. These pretty blooms originate from Mexico and South America, but still last throughout the fall months. As long as the temperature doesn't drop below 35°F, they will still be looking strong. Aster Asters are tough and able to withstand a lot of different climates and temperatures. They come in a variety of gorgeous colors like vivid blues and pastel pinks. The beauty of growing asters in the late summer is that they will likely last until the late months of fall. Keep in mind that they need well-drained soil to continue to flourish; they don't agree with soil that is too wet. Flowering Kale Flowering kale may seem like an unconventional plant to decorate your home in the winter, but its bright purple and pink tones will make passing neighbors stop and stare at your yard. Flowering kale easily tolerates frost and lower temperatures and should be blooming as the temperatures drop further in the late fall. Black-Eyed Susans Black-eyed Susans are the color of sunshine which is ironic because they love the cold temperatures. These golden beauties will even thrive in temperatures as low as -30°F and will transform your wintertime garden into a summertime oasis. Even after they wither away, they will continue to return year after year, making this one of the easiest flowers to deal with. Coneflowers Coneflowers come in a rainbow of different colors like pink, purple, white, yellow, and red. This tiny but mighty flower will bloom well into the fall and cooler months and love well-drained soil, too. Coneflowers are also beloved by bees, butterflies, and more pollinators. Catmint Catmint is a lovely purple-colored plant that resembles lavender and smells just as good. This plant is extremely tough and the blooms don't need much maintenance in the wintertime. They usually perform very well in pots even in the colder months and will evolve from a bright purple color in the summer and fall, into a lovely light purple and gray tone over the winter.

Gardening

Petunia Leaves Turning Yellow? You Should Check This First, a Gardener Says

Petunias, known for their vibrant blooms, are one of the easiest flowers to care for and grow in your outdoor flower bed. While they're very forgiving with their care needs, there are some instances when you might start to notice the green leaves turning an unsightly shade of yellow. When this starts to happen, it's important to identify the problem immediately so you can nurture your petunias back to health. Here are the top six reasons that causes yellow petunia leaves, according to an expert, and how to fix each cause. Meet the Expert Ondrea Kidd is the lead floral designer and founder of Sowing Joy Farm in Post Falls, ID. Nutrient Deficiency Once you've planted your petunias, watered them enough, and see that the plant has become established, the work doesn't stop there. Without ensuring your petunias have consistent nutrients, you might start to see yellowing leaves. "After the initial planting, it is important to give your petunias regular feedings every two to three weeks," Ondrea Kidd, lead floral designer and founder of Sowing Joy Farm, says. "I suggest a natural fertilizer such as Neptune’s Harvest and a top dressing of worm castings. These natural fertilizers amend your soil without causing any burning." She also says that you will be able to tell that a lack of nutrients is the leading cause for yellowing leaves if there's no dryness or dampness to the soil. "A good feeding followed by regular subsequent feeds will fix this problem," she adds. "You will want to remove any unsightly leaves to allow the nutrients to go to new growth and roots." Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Overwatering Of course, water plays a huge part in whether or not you start to notice yellowing leaves on your petunias. One of the ways water can lead to this leaf color is from overwatering. "Petunias love predictable watering schedules but like to dry out a bit in between waterings," Kidd says. "The main symptoms of overwatering with petunias are soggy or mushy yellowing leaves lower on the plant." She also says you may see root rot and very damp and soggy soil as other potential symptoms of an overwatered petunia. The good news is that she says this problem is an easy fix that your plant can bounce back from! "Allow the top inch or so to dry out in between waterings," Kidd says. " How fast it dries out will depend on your environment, so check the soil often." Under-watering While overwatering is a common cause for yellowing petunia leaves, so is under-watering. "If your petunia leaves are drying and becoming crispy and your soil is dry, it’s a good bet that the reason is under-watering," Kidd says. "You want the top layer of your soil to dry between waterings, but not to the point where you have more than an inch or so that is very dry." Kidd says under-watering is also an easy fix, like overwatering. "Simply remove all dried-out leaves, give the petunias a good soak to desaturate the soil, and then monitor the dryness of the soil and water as needed." If you live in an area that's prone to dry heat, wind, and very high temperatures, Kidd suggests watering the plant daily in the evenings so that the plant has time to really soak up the water. Pests & Diseases Like most plants, petunias are susceptible to the occasional pest and disease invasion from time to time. This is also a common cause for yellowing leaves that Kidd says is important to catch in the early stages. "The most common pest that likes to invade petunias is aphids," Kidd shares. "Inspect your plants frequently for signs of pests, and at the first sign of aphid infestation, I suggest a water treatment that will cause the aphids to fall right off." For diseases, Kidd says petunias are most likely to contract the Tobacco Mosaic virus, which, sadly, doesn't have a cure. Lack of Sunlight Petunias grow best in an area that allows them to get at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Without this, you could start to see yellow leaves on your plant. "To fix this problem, move your petunias to a sunny spot or remove any overhanging foliage of other plants that may be causing the shadiness." The good news is that Kidd says petunias are easy to move and are very forgiving when having to move to another location. "If you need to move them from the ground, dig around the bae with a spade to make sure you are getting all the roots and replace them in a sunny area with a similar-sized hole," she says. Age Lastly, the age of your petunia plant can play a factor in yellow leaves. Kidd says this is very common since the plant will yellow and dry up the older the plant gets. "To prolong the life and season of your petunia and keep it looking its best, deadhead all spent and wilting blooms," Kidd says. "By not letting your bloom go to seed, it will keep the petunia thinking it needs to continue blooming."

Gardening

This Is the Worst Thing You Can Do to Your Orchid, And You Might Be Doing It Every Day

Are your orchids dying back, refusing to flower, or developing yellow, wrinkled, or mushy leaves and you’re not sure why? Although these symptoms look different to the eye, they may be caused by the same common mistake that plant parents often make when growing orchids. In this guide, a plant pro reveals the number one worst thing for orchids that often causes these plants to fail, and offers expert tips to help orchids grow and bloom better. Meet the Expert Rebecca Finneran is the Grand Ideas Garden director and a retired senior horticultural educator from Michigan State University. The Worst Thing You Can Do to Your Orchid The number one reason why orchids struggle in homes is due to watering stress. “The most common mistake growers make is not overwatering, but watering incorrectly,” says horticulturalist Rebecca Finneran. This includes overwatering, underwatering, watering plants in the wrong way, or simply growing orchids in poorly draining pots or substrate. The good thing is you can prevent most orchid watering problems, and help overwatered and underwatered plants recover faster by understanding orchid growing needs and avoiding a few common watering pitfalls. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 5 Things You Should Avoid Doing to Your Orchid In the wild, orchids grow as epiphytes and cling to trees using their aerial roots. This unique root structure helps orchids absorb water quickly, but it also make orchids more vulnerable to overwatering and watering stress. This is why it’s so important to water orchids with a careful touch and to avoid these five potential issues when watering. Overwatering Any plant can develop root rot if it sits in soggy soil too long, but orchids are particularly susceptible to overwatering; their roots can rot and turn mushy, slimy, black, or string-like if they aren’t allowed to breathe. To avoid this issue, make sure to grow orchids in well-draining pots, and water them just once every 1 to 2 weeks when the substrate starts to feel dry. Use Clean Water You may want to water with rainwater or distilled water if your tap water contains a lot of chemicals or salts. Underwatering Orchids with root rot often develop yellow or mushy leaves as the rot progress, but underwatering can affect orchids too. “Think about where orchids come from: the rainforest,” Finneran says. “When their leaves are not firm or look like raisins, the plants need a good soak.” Running water through orchid pots should ensure your plants are deeply watered, or you can bottom water your plants. “Take the orchid pot and submerge only the root ball for 1 to 2 hours in a bowl or pan. This allows the fleshy roots to absorb water and will help them immensely,” Finneran says. “I soak all my orchids for one hour a week.” Watering Into the Bud Make sure that you don't water directly into the depression in the center of newly emerging leaves, also known as the orchid "bud." “If you get water into the ‘bud,’ the orchid will rot,” says Finneran. When watering, do your best to direct the flow of water onto the orchid’s aerial roots and let the water run, low and slow, over the plant’s substrate until the water runs through the pot’s drainage holes. Watering With Ice Cubes Plant labels and viral orchid care videos often recommend watering orchids with ice cubes, but Finneran warns against this practice too. “Imagine if you were a tropical plant having ice-cold water on your roots,” says Finneran. That just doesn’t make sense. Instead, use room temperature water when watering orchids, which is less likely to shock their delicate roots. Not Repotting Even if you water orchids correctly, these plants can develop root rot if you keep them in their original store-bought pots; these pots are often lacking in drainage holes and are commonly filled with a dense floral foam or moss-based substrate that keeps orchid roots far too wet. Repotting orchids as soon as you bring them home into pots with drainage holes and bark-based orchid substrate is a quick and easy way to ward against rot and prevent overwatering in the future.

Gardening

How to Prune Your Salvias in the Summer for More Blooms and Stronger Plants

Salvias are a favorite of gardeners thanks to their long bloom time and easygoing nature. These perennials are often seen in their classic blue-purple hues (a preferred color of pollinators!), but you'll also find them in shades of red, pink, and white. And, while these spiky blooms will come back year after year, there are a few pruning tricks of the trade to keep the flowers looking abundant and healthy all summer long. Want to get the most color out of the salvias in your garden? Here's how to prune salvias in the summer for bigger blooms and healthier plants. Meet the Expert Tammy Holloway is a Virginia Master Gardener and the owner of the Bay Haven Inn. How to Prune Salvias During Summer "Your pruning approach depends on the type of salvia, and whether it's an annual, herbaceous perennial, tender perennial, or more woody shrub-like plant," explains Master Gardener Tammy Holloway. "However, all salvia can be deadheaded in the summer to get continuous blooms." She recommends keeping warm-weather pruning as light as possible, simply clipping off dead blooms. However, you can also give salvia a light prune if the plant begins to grow excessively or turn leggy. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Determine the Type of Salvia You Have Before you take the pruning shears to salvia, make sure you know what type you have in your garden. Some types of salvia, like evergreen salvia or Salvia nemerosa, prefer a hard pruning in summer after their first bloom. Other shrub-forming salvias do best with light pruning to maintain their shape throughout the summer. Deadhead Any Spent Blooms Regardless of the type of salvia you have in your garden, they can all benefit from deadheading. Removing any spent blooms will allow the plant to send more energy towards new growth. Since salvia are typically continuous bloomers throughout the spring, summer, and sometimes fall, this allows them to produce as many flowers as possible. Prune Areas That Negatively Impact Shape If salvia is becoming leggy and looking less than vibrant, a summer pruning can help it regain its shape and focus energy on the healthiest parts of the plant. Cut away leggy branches or anything that extends beyond the desired shape. This is especially helpful with shrub-like salvia, like Salvia leucantha. Cut Back Salvia When It's Overgrown Salvia are wonderful border or backdrop plants but, especially along pathways, they can easily overtake any areas where they have room to grow. Trim back salvia that is growing into other plants or parts of your garden where you would rather it didn't spread. Try to avoid a hard pruning, but don't feel bad cutting overgrown stems and branches. Additionally, cut back eager growers after their first bloom to encourage a second flush of flowers. Why Prune Salvias? Pruning salvias isn't necessary, but it will keep your plants both pretty and healthy. By pruning salvias throughout the summer, you'll encourage them to continue to bloom while also keeping the plant bushy rather than leggy. 5 Salvia Care Tips to Keep Them Blooming All Summer Salvias are easy-going plants that add color and interesting foliage to the garden, and it doesn't take much to keep them flowering. But, to encourage continuous and abundant blooms from late spring through late summer, here are a few tips to make sure they're at their happiest. Choose a Spot With Lots of Sun Salvias are sun-loving flowers that will thrive even during the hottest, sunniest days of summer. Plant them in a spot where they're guaranteed to get at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Prepare for a Big Pruning After Summer While summer pruning will keep your plants blooming and healthy, the big prune doesn't come until later in the year. This is when you'll cut back the plant, sometimes completely, to prepare for new spring growth. "Perennial salvia may be cut back in the fall," Holloway says. "Depending on your zone, it can be pruned late winter and early spring as well." Avoid Over-Watering Salvia are drought-tolerant once established, so make sure they're planted in well-draining soil and resist the temptation to water them during the dog days of summer. The soil should be allowed to dry out completely between watering (or, more likely, summer rain!). Fertilize Once at the Start of Spring You don't need to worry about watering salvia biweekly or even bimonthly. Salvia can thrive without nutrients added into the soil though, if you do want to apply fertilizer, do it once at the start of spring. Thin Out Plants When Necessary Because some salvia will grow and spread throughout the season, it might be necessary to thin out the plants to keep them healthy. The upside? It's easy to propagate them, and you'll have additional salvia plants to spread throughout your yard or pass off on a neighbor with a green thumb.

Gardening

Want Better Lilies Next Year? Gardeners Say You Should Never Skip This Important Task

Lilies are one of the stars of any flower lover's midsummer garden. But what should you do once those blooms begin to fade? Like many popular garden flowers, lilies benefit from deadheading—but maybe not for the reason you think. Here's why you should make a point to deadhead your lilies this growing season. Should You Deadhead Lilies? Lilies benefit from deadheading for a couple of different reasons. In addition to tidying up the appearance of your garden after its blooms have faded, snipping away the spent flower heads is important for next year's growth. Leaving the flowers on the plant will allow them to go to seed if the flowers have been pollinated. Instead of storing up energy in their bulbs for next year's flowers, your lily plants will expend that energy producing seeds. Removing the flowering portions of each stem once they fade means you'll have stronger, more vibrant flowers next year than if you let the plants go to seed.1 Note that, unlike flowers such as marigolds and zinnias, deadheading true lilies, including Asiatic lilies and Easter lilies, won't encourage the plants to rebloom this year. How to Deadhead Lilies Look for lily stems with flowers that have faded or are beginning to fade, discolor, or drop off. Keep an eye out for flowers in which the petals and stamens have fallen away completely. Only the stigma, the structure in the center of the flower that collects pollen to send down to the ovary in the base of the flower to form seeds, may remain. If your lily flowers have already bloomed, you may also see only long green seed pods where the flowers once were. You can deadhead a single lily flower out of many on a stem or, once all blooms have faded, cut back the entire flowering portion of that stem. To remove a single flower, use clean, sharp scissors or pruners to cut the flower stem where it meets the main stem. Sanitize Your Tools If possible, sanitize your tools between cuts to avoid spreading disease. While it's possible to simply snap off the spent flowers with your hands rather than using snips, leaving ragged, uneven stem ends behind may help introduce disease to your lily plants. If all flowers on the stem have faded and begun going to seed, you can make your cut at the bottom of the flowering portion of the main stem—below the lowest flower stem but above any leaves. Once your lily flowers begin to fade, check them every few days to deadhead individual blooms as needed. You can also choose to wait until all flowers on a single stem are spent and remove the flowering portion of the spike all at once. Tip Deadheading, or cutting away faded or dead flowers, is an important garden task for many plants. Depending on the type of flower, deadheading can help plants preserve energy for next year or promote reblooming the same season. Either way, deadheading keeps your flower garden looking neat and tidy. What to Do With Deadheaded Blooms As long as they don't show signs of pests or disease, lilies can be added to your compost pile. They can also be thrown in the trash. If your lilies do become diseased or infested, it's best to tie them up in a plastic bag before tossing them to prevent any spread. You may also decide to skip deadheading altogether and leave the seed pods on the plant, though it may not grow as vigorously the next year. In fact, some types of lilies are known for their visually striking seed pods, which can add interest to the garden in the off-season if they're left on the plant. For example, blackberry lilies get their name from the distinctive shiny black seeds left behind after the flowers bloom.

Gardening

Yellow Leaves on Your Begonias? 5 Things Gardeners Say You Should Check Right Now

Begonias are a favorite flower of both indoor and outdoor gardeners. Varieties like angel wing begonias and rex begonias make attractive houseplants thanks to their vividly patterned leaves, while wax begonias add cheer to garden beds with colorful blooms. But without the proper care and conditions, begonia leaves can turn yellow, signaling that something isn't right with your plant. The good news is that yellow leaves are your plant's way of communicating that something is wrong. The bad news is that several different factors could be the cause, so you'll need to do some investigating to address the problem. Here's why your begonia leaves may be turning yellow—and the first thing you should check to keep your plant looking healthy. Overwatering In general, the most likely cause of yellow begonia leaves is too much water due to either overwatering, poorly draining soils, or a container without adequate drainage. When your plant's soil remains soggy and saturated, its roots can't take up oxygen properly, leading to chlorosis, or yellowing leaves. Left untreated, overwatering can eventually result in root rot, which can seriously damage or even kill your plant. If your begonia has very wet, soggy soil or is planted in an area with poor drainage, that's likely the cause of its yellow leaves. Cut back on watering outdoor plants if possible. For container begonias, allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again. Going forward, check soil moisture regularly and only water once the top inch or so is dry. Consider repotting your plant in a potting mix that includes plenty of perlite for drainage, and ensure that the pot it's planted in has holes in the bottom. Avoid letting the plant sit in water in its cache pot or drip tray. Lack of Sunlight Begonias that don't receive sufficient sunlight may develop yellow leaves because they're not able to photosynthesize as much due to lack of light, which in turn creates similar conditions to overwatering, as plants use water as they turn sunlight into food. Indoors, begonias need bright, indirect light to thrive. Move container plants closer to the light source. Too Much Sunlight A begonia that's planted in a spot that gets an overabundance of harsh, direct sunlight can suffer from sunburn. The plant may develop pale brown spots on its leaves before slowly turning yellow and falling off. Move indoor or container begonias to a spot out of direct sun but with lots of indirect light. For in-ground plantings, consider installing shade cloth—and plan to seek out begonia varieties with a tolerance for full sun next season. Pest Problems Begonias can fall prey to common plant pests like mites, scale, whiteflies, and mealybugs, as well as slugs and snails when planted outdoors. Pest damage may appear as tiny yellow dots, or patches, or the edges of plant leaves may turn yellow and then brown. Examine your plant's leaves and stems closely for signs of pests, such as flat, oval-shaped brown bumps (scale insects), cottony masses (mealybugs), or sticky honeydew, which can be left behind by these sap-sucking insects as they feed. After quarantining your begonia from the rest of your collection, treat infested plants with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap to remove pests. Cut off any severely damaged leaves, bag them securely, and discard them in the trash to keep them from spreading. Monitor the plant closely and treat again if signs of pests return. Plant Diseases Some plant diseases can cause begonia leaves to turn yellow. Bacterial leaf spot can appear as yellow rings around water-soaked leaf areas, but it can be prevented by keeping the leaves as dry as possible during watering. Cut away damaged plant parts, bag them up, and throw them away—then sterilize your tools to keep from spreading the disease. Viruses can cause pale yellow rings or spots to form on begonia leaves as well. If you suspect a virus is the problem, remove, bag, and discard infected plants to prevent spread.

Gardening

This Is How Often You Should Really Deadhead Petunias for Healthier Blooms, According to Gardeners

Petunias are known for their vibrant, trumpet-shaped blooms and long flowering season, making them a staple in many home gardens. But to keep these colorful plants looking their best, regular maintenance is key, especially when it comes to deadheading. Removing spent flowers not only improves the plant’s appearance but also encourages more blooms throughout the season. So, how often do you really need to deadhead your petunias? We turned to gardening pros for the answer. Meet the Expert Julia Omelchenko is the resident botany expert at Plantum, a plant care and gardening app that helps identify plants and improve plant care. Kelly Funk is an experienced gardening expert and the President of Jackson & Perkins, an online plant nursery specializing in roses and other garden plants. Why Is Deadheading Important? When a plant’s flowers start to fade, it signals to the plant that it’s time to direct its energy into producing seeds. Deadheading disrupts this process and naturally extends the blooming season by removing the spent flower altogether, thereby redirecting the plant’s energy from seed production to producing more flowers. Not all flowering plants require deadheading, but many benefit from it, especially annuals like petunias. If you want your petunias to bloom all summer, deadheading is the way to do it. How Often Should You Deadhead Petunias? According to gardening pros, it’s best to deadhead petunias regularly to encourage more blooms and prevent them from going to seed. The frequency will vary slightly depending on your climate and the cultivar you have, but in general, you can expect to be deadheading your petunias at least once a week. “Ideally, petunias should be deadheaded at least once a week, but checking on them a few times a week is better, especially during peak bloom periods," says Kelly Funk, President of Jackson & Perkins. "I recommend making it part of your routine when watering or doing other tasks." Some petunia cultivars, such as Wave petunias and Supertunias, are bred to be self-cleaning, meaning they don’t require deadheading to encourage more blooms. Still, according to Julia Omelchenko, resident botany expert at Plantum, it’s best to prune these varieties occasionally to maintain their shape and stimulate vigorous growth. If deadheading your petunias multiple times a week sounds like a lot of work, we have good news for you: deadheading is super easy to do, and will only take you a couple of minutes to complete. The key is to ensure you’re doing it properly. How to Deadhead Petunias Deadheading involves removing the entire flower head once it starts to wilt. This includes the petals, the peduncle, and the receptacle. Basically, you want to remove the entire trumpet-shaped flower, including the green base that attaches it to the stem. This can be done by hand, or using sterilized scissors or pruning shears. “It’s important to deadhead properly by removing not just the petals but also the green base of the flower," Omelchenko says. "If you only pull off the petals, the plant will continue to produce seeds in the ovary." Additional Petunia Care Tips for Continuous Blooms Besides regular deadheading, there are a few other ways you can encourage your petunias to bloom all summer. Ensuring they have adequate light (full sun) and water (soil shouldn’t dry out completely) is the first step. Funk also recommends fertilizing your petunias every two weeks to help support vigorous growth. Finally, our experts say it’s common for petunias to start looking leggy by mid-summer, even if you’re deadheading regularly. To facilitate bushy growth, they recommend a light pruning to help tidy the plant. Not only will you be rewarded with fresh, compact growth, but you’ll also get a flush of new blooms.

Gardening

This Simple Trick Can Bring a Faded Hydrangea Back to Life Overnight

Hydrangeas tend to fade and wilt in the summer, but don't consider it a lost cause just yet. You can bring those flowers back to its bright and cheery self with one main trick—and it doesn't involve watering them more. Hydrangeas aren't big fans of the heat and sun, so you'll likely see them bounce back in the evenings when the weather cools down. Of course, there's more to it than that. We asked gardening experts for their main tricks and tips on how to bring faded hydrangeas back to life in no time. Meet the Expert Amy McCord is the founder and CEO of Flower Moxie. David Angelov is the founder and CEO of Plant Parenthood. The Trick to Bring Back Faded Hydrangeas To bring your faded hydrangea back to life, set up a shade cloth or move or replant them in a more covered spot to give the plant some relief. "Hydrangea are shade plants, and this also helps with water retention," says plant expert Amy McCord. "A shade cloth will work wonders, and setting up a drip hose can keep the plant thriving even in hotter months." It's a common misconception that most hydrangea plants love full sun; many of them only want partial sun. "If possible, have them planted in place with partial sun," say plant pro David Angelov. "Ideally, you start from that, rather than remedy with a band-aid." Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Your Hydrangeas Are Fading Experts point out that hydrangeas can fade due to three main factors. First, Angelov says the heat itself can make the hydrangea wilt and suggests waiting it out until the evening when the temperature goes down. "The leaves start to wilt, and they bounce back in the evening without any intervention," Angelov says. Additionally, the plant doesn't like weather hotter than 80°F, and its leaves will wilt due to the heat. "If the leaves are turning brown or losing their flowers very easily, that's different," Angelov says. "But generally, if the leaves are just wilting, then it's the heat." Lastly, hydrangeas need a lot of water and do not like to be even slightly dehydrated. "This is the most common reason, as they are very thirsty plants and cannot withstand a several-day dry out," McCord says. How to Care for Hydrangeas in Intense Heat Angelov and McCord have several tips for caring for hydrangeas in the sweltering summer weather. When watering them, McCord advises giving the plant hydration at the bottom, where the plant meets the soil. "It's best to give them a long, slow drink at the base of the plant, as they are shallow-rooted," she says. "Although they wilt quickly, they can bounce back quickly." However, Angelov warns against giving the usually thirsty flower too much hydration, because overwatering can be just as fatal. McCord also suggests removing any old blooms. "Hydrangeas take a lot of resources, so aging blooms pull hydration away from new growth and blooms," she says. 4 Other Tips for Hydrangea Care Angelov and McCord had these other tips for caring for hydrangeas in the summer. Increase acidity. Hydrangeas are pH sensitive, and more acidity will make their flower colors more vibrant. Use well-draining soil. This will help prevent root rot in the plant. Prune at the right time. Both experts emphasized double-checking when you should prune your specific variety of hydrangeas during the year. Each type is different. Compost at the beginning of the season. Give the plant a top dressing of compost each year so it will have the nutrients to produce flowers during the season.

Gardening

Got Unpleasant Smells in Your Yard? These 7 Plants Can Help Mask Them

If your neighbors love barbecues, have dodgy drains, or their pets leave pungent smells of pee on the border of your yard, you might be looking for solutions to mask malodors. Adding specific fragrant flowers to your landscape can help. Always consider the plant's height, the time of year and day it emits its scents, the fragrance's intensity, and the appropriate location to make the most of your selection. Here are seven plants that hide bad smells to save you from falling out with your friends over the fence. Butterfly Bush Butterfly bushes (Buddleja davidii) are fast-growing shrubs that can form a dense privacy screen along the fence between you and your neighbor, blocking wafting odors and ash particles. Depending on the type you select, you—and those beneficial pollinators—can enjoy the honey-like scent of the beautiful, long-lasting, nose-height blooms from mid-summer through fall. The fragrance is at its strongest around midday—ideal for masking the burning bouquet of lunchtime barbecues. However, be aware that some butterfly bush species are invasive in parts of the US. Butterfly bushes grow best in USDA hardiness zones five to nine. They appreciate full sun and well-draining soil and need regular pruning to promote the longest bloom period. Curry Plant When you're looking for ideas for a small backyard, consider curry plants (Helichrysum italicum). They’re great plants to grow in containers along your decking where it backs onto your neighbor's garden or in the most pungeant corner. Enjoy the heady, spicy scent of the attractive silvery foliage of this aromatic perennial herb in sunny spots in USDA hardiness zones eight to 11. The yellow blooms of these low-maintenance, pest-resistant plants are perfect for dry xeriscapes. Farrer Virburnum Virburnum ferreri, which grows in zones six to eight, is a good choice for disguising the smell of your neighbors' rotting leaf pile in the fall. The fragrant pink flowers of this deciduous shrub bloom from late fall through winter. Plant in a full sun or partial shade position and keep the soil consistently moist to promote the best flowering. Jasmine Another familiar floral fragrance is that of the jasmine blooms. There are many jasmine types to choose from, allowing you to select the best fit for your conditions and the time of year you want the blooms to be part of your yard’s smellscape. Most jasmine species grow in zones seven to 10 and appreciate full sun, well-draining, loamy, and evenly moist soil. These climbing plants are perfect for pergolas, providing a scented sanctuary away from any unpleasant odors from over the fence. Lavender When you think of fragrant flowers, lavender is one of the archetypical examples. There are lots of types of lavender plants to choose from, with most of the summer-time blooms emitting a strong, soapy scent. The leaves also release a scent when you touch them, the rest of the year. These low-growing perennial shrubs are ideal for growing as a border along fence perimeters where dogs pee, as long as you can provide the full sun and well-draining soil conditions they require. You can also grow lavender in pots or hang dry lavender on your porch for year-round aromas. Honeysuckle Honeysuckle is a fragrant garden classic, with many species emitting their sweet smell in the evening and at night. These vining shrubs can be wound around trellises against your fence to disguise the odors of evening grills one yard over. Most types of honeysuckle need full sun and well-draining soil. Consider native species over the highly invasive plant types, such as Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica). Hyacinth Hyacinths have some of the sweetest fragrant spring blooms, making them ideal if you want to hide the smell of your neighbor’s stagnant water from spring showers or geosmin—the earthy smell from the soil that can be strongest in this season. While the blooms are relatively short-lived, if you plant them in large groups, you can appreciate the scent for longer and across more of your yard. Plant hyacinths in full sun or partial shade, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.

Gardening

8 Late-Summer Flowers That Keep Pollinators Coming Back, Even into Fall

One of the joys of gardening is seeing native bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds feeding on the nectar of the flowers you've planted. But with many species blooming in spring or early summer, there's often a gap in food supply for these beneficial pollinators during late summer and early fall—a crucial time of year. You can help close that gap for the pollinators in your area—and extend the season for colorful blooms—by planting native plants that flower in late summer. Here are eight late-summer blooming flowers to consider for your garden. Anise Hyssop Anise hyssop, a member of the mint family, is known for tall, abundant spires of tiny purple flowers. It's native to the northeast US but thrives in regions with a similar climate as well. Pollinating insects like solitary native bee species are attracted to its nectar. Plant anise hyssop in an area with moist, well-drained soil that gets at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Joe Pye Weed Another North American native that pollinating insects love is Joe Pye weed. This perennial blooms in late summer with heavy clusters of dark pink to purple flowers. The blooms attract beneficial bugs thanks to their scent, which is reminiscent of vanilla. Give Joe Pye weed full sun and moist, well-drained soil. While many native plants don't require regular fertilizer, Joe Pye weed needs a little nutritional boost to bloom if planted in poor soil. Cardinal Flower This native plant gets its name from its spikes of bright red flowers, which bloom from midsummer until early fall—when pollinators are most in need of nectar sources. It requires full to part sun and moist soils that are neutral to acidic in pH to thrive. The plant will self-seed aggressively, so consider that when choosing your planting site. Note that cardinal flower is toxic to both people and pets.1 Helenium Also called sneezeweed, helenium blooms in summer and fall with cheerful flowers that may be shades of yellow, orange, and red. Put this plant in a spot that has moist, well-drained soil and gets at least six to eight hours of full sun each day. Deadheading can help plants bloom continuously, which benefits the bees and butterflies that seek their nectar. Divide and replant helenium after three years to keep it looking healthy. Garden Phlox Low-maintenance garden phlox is available in a wide range of colors, including shades of purple, pink, and white. Its blooms attract pollinators including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. This North American native plant grows best with full sun, well-drained soil, and regular watering, especially in times of drought. Goldenrod Goldenrod is a hardy North American native plant that provides nectar to pollinating insects in late summer and fall when they need it most. It's also ideal for planting in sites with poor soil. Give it full sun and a spot with good drainage to attract pollinators like bees and monarch butterflies to your garden. Avoid overfertilizing to keep plants from becoming leggy. Blazing Star Blazing star, also known as liatris, attracts bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. Its spikes of dense, long-lasting blooms in shades of purple or white appear in summer and last through fall, helping to fill the late-season nectar gap for pollinators. Give it full sun and well-drained soil for best results. When watering, avoid getting the foliage wet to help prevent fungal issues. New England Aster Along with goldenrod, New England aster and other late-blooming aster species provide much-needed breeding habitat, food sources, and overwintering sites for beneficial pollinating insects, including native bees, wasps, flies, moths, beetles, and butterflies.2 Their purple, pink, or white flowers look great alongside goldenrod in your garden, too. These fast-growing plants can even bloom in their first year of planting. Give New England aster full sun and moist, well-drained soil to help it thrive.

Gardening

We Asked Hydrangea Specialists for Their Top Care Tips, and They'll Save Even the Droopiest Flowers

Throughout the U.S., hydrangeas are the quintessential summer flower. With their full, round blossoms and stunning array of colors, they’re a perfect addition to a seasonal flower garden, especially if you’re looking to add bushes and shrubs to the mix. So, what does growing hydrangeas require? We checked in with a few gardening pros with a particular aptitude for this beloved shrub to find out some top tips. Meet the Expert Laura Root is a gardening expert and the senior merchant of live plants and hardgoods for Jackson & Perkins. Linda Vater is the plant expert for Southern Living® Plant Collection. Plant in Early Spring or Fall If you’re hoping to add hydrangeas to your yard, gardening pro Laura Root says the best time to plant these beauties is in early spring or fall. “This allows for cooler temperatures and more consistent moisture, which helps the plants establish strong roots before the stress of summer heat or winter cold sets in,” she says. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Consider Your Location While hydrangeas grow well throughout much of the US, plant pro Linda Vater still suggests checking your USDA zone. “Many popular species, like Hydrangea macrophylla, are hardy in Zones 5–9, representing a broad swath of the United States,” she says, before noting that this is why personal considerations are important, too. “For example, in more northerly regions, spring planting allows optimal time for root development before winter’s chill sets in,” says Vater. “In the [southern U.S.], fall planting is often ideal to allow a long lead time to the region’s intense summer heat.” But no matter where you are, Vater says mid-summer planting should be avoided due to heat stress and water needs of newly planted hydrangeas. Keep Soil Moist and Drained According to Root, hydrangeas require moist, well-draining soil that’s rich in organic matter. “They prefer consistent moisture and soil that stays damp but not soggy,” she says. “Over-watering can cause root rot, while letting the soil dry out stresses the plant.” Be sure to stick to a reliable watering schedule—especially if you’re having a dry season or cultivating newer hydrangea shrubs. “It’s important to water consistently during your hydrangea’s first year to support healthy root establishment,” says Vater. Adjust pH Levels for Desired Colors Along with moisture levels, it’s also important to note your soil’s pH, as this is important for both your hydrangea’s health and the color of its blooms. “In some varieties, acidic soil promotes blue blooms, while alkaline soil encourages pink flowers,” Root says. “Use a soil acidifier for blue blooms or garden lime for pink blooms.” However, don’t adjust your soil’s pH too dramatically, or without testing first. “Making drastic changes without testing can limit nutrient uptake and harm the plant,” she says. Expect Blooms in Late Spring Through Summer If you’re excited to clip your hydrangeas for indoor arrangements, Root says healthy plants are known for their long bloom times. In fact, you should see flowers appear from late spring through summer, depending on the variety you’ve planted. “Once established, and with proper care, gardeners can look forward to months of beautiful blooms during the growing season,” she says. Avoid Clay Soil Along with keeping your soil watered at the correct levels and monitoring the pH, Root says you should also avoid heavy clay soils because they trap too much moisture. However, if you do have this kind of soil, there are things you can do. Root suggests amending with organic matter to improve drainage. Consider Your Space Needs Depending on your space and location of your hydrangea, it’s important to consider the size. Some can grow up to 20 feet, while others are fairly compact. “White Wedding fits well in tight spaces and containers and requires little pruning to maintain its size,” Vater says. But others—such as the Hydrangea macrophylla which is considered the largest variety—can require much more space. Most Recommended Hydrangea Varieties Both Vater and Root shared their top picks for hydrangea varieties. Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf): Root recommends these for their large, colorful blooms that change color with pH. These can also be compact and drought-tolerant, and Vater notes that this variety is reliably hardy throughout much of the U.S. Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth): This one has showy white blooms and is very adaptable. White Wedding Hydrangea: Vater explains these are abundant in flowers and well-suited to small spaces like containers and cut flower gardens. Heart Throb Hydrangea: Its vibrant cherry red color is edged in vibrant green, which Vater says becomes more prominent over time. Dear Dolores Hydrangea: Vater says this is perfect if you want a classic pink hydrangea in your garden.

Gardening

How to Revive Near-Dead Hydrangeas and Save Your Garden in the Process

The keys to healthy, showy hydrangeas are well-draining soil, the correct amount of light, water, and nutrients, and providing protection from extreme temperatures. The majority of plant problems are not caused by a disease or an insect but by poor growing conditions, incorrect care, weather extremes, and soggy soil. However, no matter how much you try, some pests, diseases, and growing conditions can cause hydrangeas to die. With quick intervention, you may be able to reverse the damage to your near-dead hydrangea, revive it, and bring it back to a healthy state. Here's how. Check the Soil Moisture Level Hydrangeas like lots of water, but it is possible to overwater, especially in heavy clay, slow-draining soil. Leaf drop and brown leaf edges are signs that the roots are sitting in water and you are overwatering. Always check the soil moisture before watering. If the soil is dry about an inch or more deep, it's safe to add more water. A lack of water can also cause hydrangeas to die. If the leaves are droopy, the plant needs to be watered. Drip irrigation that adds moisture slowly so it is absorbed properly at the root level is a good choice to keep hydrangeas healthy. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Provide Afternoon Shade Whether your hydrangeas are planted in the garden or in containers, they will grow much better if they receive morning sun and some afternoon shade from the hot sun. Crispy, browning leaves are a sure indication that the plants are getting too much direct sunlight. Container-grown plants can be moved easily or shaded by an umbrella or covered trellis. Garden plants may need to be transplanted to a better location in the fall when temperatures cool. Get Rid of Slugs and Snails Disappearing leaves and leaves with large holes indicate a slug or snail problem in the garden. The pests are particularly fond of new tender hydrangea leaves. Fortunately, slug control is usually simple: hand-remove the pests, kill them with salt, or drown them in a pan of beer. Improve Air Circulation Fungal diseases like powdery mildew leave irregular brown patches on hydrangea leaves and flower heads that if left uncorrected can kill the entire plant. Fungal disease damage can often be eliminated by pruning plants to improving the air circulation in and around the shrub. Always remove the diseased parts of the plant and dispose of them in a plastic bag. Apply a copper fungicide if the problem is widespread. Flush Away Excess Fertilizer Hydrangeas thrive in nutrient-rich soil amended by compost or other organic matter. If you choose to use a commercial fertilizer and add too much, you risk burning the root system, which can cause the plant's blooms and leaves to turn brown, droop, and eventually die. If you've been overzealous with a water-soluble fertilizer, it is possible to still save the plant if you flush the fertilizer out of the soil. When you begin to notice the signs of damage, use a hose to slowly water the plant, giving it more water than normal. The excess water will help move the fertilizer through the soil and away from the root system of your hydrangea. Reverse Transplant Shock Whether you are planting a new hydrangea from the garden center or transplanting an established plant to a new location in the garden, it should be done during spring or fall when temperatures are cooler. This gives the plant time to recover without having to suffer through the scorching temperatures of summer. Whenever a hydrangea is planted or transplanted, expect some leaf wilt. Water the plant deeply at least once a day. Mulch around the plant to preserve soil moisture and continue this watering routine until the wilting stops. Do not fertilize the plant or prune away the wilted stems because both cause even more stress to the plant.

Gardening

How to Revive Near-Dead Petunias and Save Your Yard in the Process

Depending on where you live, petunias are probably a summer staple in your flower beds. They’re a reliable pop of color, and they tend to thrive in a variety of conditions. As long as they’re in a sunny spot and watered regularly, petunias are generally considered low-maintenance plants. As the summer goes on, it’s not uncommon to catch your petunias drooping and dying—especially if you’ve faced a summer of extremes—but with a few handy tips you might be able to revive your near-dead petunias and bring them back to thrive until the season ends. Deadhead Any Lost Blooms One of the best ways to help a struggling petunia plant is by deadheading; this is the process of removing any dead or faded flowers from the plant. Deadheading petunias both encourages more blooming and immediately fixes the look of your plant. The reason it encourages more flowers to bloom is because the plant can focus its energy on new life, rather than trying to revive spent blossoms. You can do this either with proper shears, or by simply picking off the dead flower with your fingers. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Prune the Dried Foliage Another way to perk up your petunias is with pruning. This is similar to deadheading (it serves the same purpose), but instead of tackling the dead flowers, you go for the dead leaves. Along with cleaning up the look of your plant, you’re also helping it direct its energy toward new, fresh growth. While pinching off flowers is an option for deadheading, you’ll need proper, sharp shears for dealing with the foliage. It’s also important they’re clean, as otherwise you run the risk of spreading disease to the plant. Adjust Your Watering Schedule Depending on where you live, petunias don't require too much attention, but they still need regular watering. If you notice your plants look dire, have a peek at your watering schedule. You might need to make adjustments. While petunias planted in the ground can go longer, anything in a pot needs daily watering. But you don’t want to over-water your petunias, either. If your plants look parched and crispy, amp up the water. If the leaves are yellow and the plants are drooping, slow it down. Ensure Proper Drainage Along with taking note of whether or not your petunias are drooping and looking yellow, you also need to beware of root rot. This is when the roots of your petunias become waterlogged, and it’s the most fatal effect of over-watering. If you suspect your petunias are at risk, they might need removing or relocating into fresh soil that can ensure good drainage. If you plan to repot in the same container, make sure you clean and disinfect the pot thoroughly to avoid the spread of any mold or mildew that might have started to accumulate. Fertilize the Soil Petunias are considered heavy feeders, which means they benefit from fertilizers. Slow-release options are great, and can be used both in the ground and when petunias are planted in pots and containers. Along with reviving your plants, fertilizing petunias can also help with more abundant blooms and a longer growing season. If you don’t want to invest in special fertilizer, you can try making your own compost, or adding banana peels or coffee grounds to the soil. Move Into Full Sun Petunias thrive with the right amount of sunlight, so check the light levels if you find your blooms aren’t full or abundant. You should aim to provide these plants with at least six hours of direct sunlight a day, although eight or more is ideal. If your plants are in containers, this should be easy enough to resolve—simply move the pot. If you’re dealing with grumpy petunias in the ground, it’s likely time to relocate. Some shade is fine, but a sunny spot is an absolute must if you’re hoping to perk your plants up enough to see more flowers. Offer Protection From the Elements As a final potential problem for your petunias, consider their exposure to any extreme elements. Blistering sun with no water is an obvious problem, but petunias can also be sensitive to strong winds—especially any varieties with more delicate blooms. Keep an eye out, too, for any potential pests. Petunias are prone to attracting aphids and slugs, while rabbits and deer might also snack on these blooms. If you notice any signs of an invasion, consider moving or protecting your plants to help bring them back to life.

gardening

Subscribe to our newsletter !

Never miss a new recipe again