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Gardening

Basil Looking Droopy? 7 Genius Ways to Revive It and Help It Last Even Longer

Basil is one of the tastiest herbs in any kitchen garden, but these delicate plants can wilt if they're not receiving the proper care. Here's why basil plants can be susceptible to wilting, plus seven ways to protect your plants and enjoy basil in your garden all summer long. Why Basil Plants Wilt So Easily Basil is a tender herb that's pretty easy to grow with the proper care and conditions. But if the plant isn't getting its needs met, it may wilt or show other signs of distress. Probably the most common reason basil plants wilt is underwatering, especially in very hot, sunny weather. Overwatering can also cause plants to wilt and leaves to yellow and eventually fall off. Transplant shock, in which damage to roots makes it difficult for the plant to take up water, can also cause basil to wilt. Overharvesting, or taking too much of the plant's foliage at once, can contribute to stunted growth and can eventually harm or kill the plant. Plant diseases can also contribute to basil wilting. Fusarium wilt is a fungus that will stunt sweet basil plants once they reach around 8 to 12 inches tall. Symptoms include browning stems and wilting, curled, or yellow leaves.1 Another disease that can cause basil to wilt is called basil downy mildew. Leaves will wilt or curl and turn yellow, with a fuzzy purple or gray growth on the undersides of leaves. As with fusarium wilt, sweet basil varieties are more susceptible than Thai purple or other specialty basils.2 Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! 7 Ways to Prevent Your Basil From Wilting Plant in well-drained soil: Choose a planting site with rich, well-drained soil. If growing basil in a container, choose a pot with a drainage hole and add perlite to the standard potting mix for additional drainage. Transplant carefully: If possible, transplant basil seedlings or potted plants on a cool, overcast day or later in the afternoon to avoid exposing the delicate plants to hot, sunny conditions. Give plants enough space between them to allow for airflow. Water appropriately: Water basil regularly to keep the soil evenly moist. Do your best to water the soil directly, keeping the leaves dry and reducing the risk of plant diseases. Mulch around plants: Add a few inches of organic mulch, such as salt hay or shredded straw, to garden beds and around the base of basil plants. This will help the soil stay moist and reduce weeds. Avoid overharvesting: Basil plants are ready to harvest once they're about 8 inches in height. Avoid removing more than a third of the foliage at any one time. Harvest from several plants so that the others have time to regrow. Plant disease-resistant varieties: To minimize the risk of disease, look for resistant varieties of sweet basil like 'Aroma-2', 'Obsession', 'Prospera', and 'Eleonora'.1 Rotate crops in your garden: Avoid planting basil or other susceptible plants for three years after plants grown there were affected by diseases like fusarium wilt or basil downy mildew. How to Revive a Wilting Basil Plant A thirsty, wilting basil plant should bounce back after a deep watering. Remove any yellow, brown, or dead leaves so the plant can concentrate its energy on new growth. If you suspect your wilting basil plant is overwatered, allow the soil to dry out completely, or consider repotting it in fresh soil and only water going forward when the soil surface has just begun to dry out. Unfortunately, basil plants that show signs of disease can't be treated. Instead, harvest any unaffected plants or leaves and use them quickly. Bag up diseased plants and plant parts and throw them in the trash to avoid spreading the disease to other plants.

Gardening

How to Prune Cilantro Like a Pro Gardener for Healthier Harvests All Season Long

Cilantro is a cool-season herb with a brief but prolific growing and harvesting window. Sensitive to both heat and sunlight hours, it quickly bolts and goes to seed when exposed to too much of either. Several methods exist for extending the harvest, one of which is to prune and harvest plants regularly. Find out how to keep cilantro growing, along with other tips on extending the season for this finicky herb. When to Prune Cilantro With most herbs, pruning equates to harvesting since you'll use leaves and stems you've removed. Once established, cilantro grows fairly rapidly and requires repeated pruning. Start heading back early when several stems reach 6 inches tall, removing 1 to 2 inches of top growth. How quickly your plant grows depends on the variety, with conditions a major factor, so watch for signs of bolting. These include the appearance of small white flowers and the emergence of a tall, thick central stem with smaller, finer leaves. Avoid working with wet leaves and stems by pruning between late morning and early evening. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why prune cilantro? Pruning is essential for a successful cilantro crop. It encourages new and continued leafy growth, extends the life of the plant, and prevents early bolting or going to seed. How to Prune Cilantro Without Killing the Plant Cilantro stems grow from a central rosette, which becomes fuller and bushier with consistent pruning. It has a deep tap root and growth habit similar to parsley and carrots, but with a shorter season and a greater tendency to bolt. Keep a pair of sharp, sterile scissors or herb snippers handy and follow these steps to get the most from your cilantro plants. Begin pruning when plants have produced several stems 6 inches tall, snipping out the top inch or two just above a leaf node. As new stems emerge from the center of the plant, prune back the outermost stems to 4 to 6 inches in height. Check plants at least once each week and continue to prune back growth around the outsides of the plant. As plants become fuller and bushier, you can remove the outermost stems at the base to encourage more center growth. Once spring temperatures start to rise above 65°F, look for flower buds forming at the tips of long stems and snip or pinch off stems below the bud. Watch for a thick stalk to appear in the center. To extend the harvest, try cutting it out at the base. Once temperatures exceed 70°F with more sun exposure, your cilantro will likely produce too many flowers for continued pruning. The thick center flower stalk indicates the plant is ready to bolt. You can pull the plant or let it go to flower and seed. Cilantro flowers attract pollinators, and mature seeds are used as the spice coriander. How to Prevent Cilantro Plants From Bolting Keep the soil moist. Give plants an inch of water each week, but be careful not to overwater. Mature plants need less but thrive in soil that stays consistently moist. Plant in part shade. Choose an area in the garden protected from hot afternoon sun. Prune early and often. Keep plants trimmed to a rounded, uniform shape and remove flower buds. Removethe central stem. Remove the thick central flowering stalk at the base. Choose a heat-tolerant variety. Look for seeds labeled 'Slow Bolt' or 'Summer Cilantro.' Grow in a pot. Consider growing cilantro in a container for better control of growing conditions. Pruning Tips Start pruning cilantro early in the season when several stems are 6 inches tall. Prune often, at least once a week, during the growing season to prevent bolting. Prune back stems by one-third around the outsides of the plant or remove them at the base to keep new leaves growing Remove yellow and damaged leaves. An herb snipper is a good tool for cutting back and removing small flowers. Cilantro leaves and stems are tender and bruise easily.

Gardening

We Asked a Gardener When to Prune Parsley for the Best Harvest, and She Surprised Us

If you ever want to grow a versatile herb that adds a fresh, peppery taste to your dishes, then you can't go wrong with parsley. This green, bushy herb is wonderful for its variety to fit different cuisines, but it's also super easy to grow. You can choose to grow your parsley in an indoor container or outside garden, but either way, you must prune the plant once it starts to grow. Pruning parsley is essential not just for the plant's overall health, but for its appearance and taste. "Regular pruning encourages the plant to grow fuller and bushier, which means more fresh parsley for you," says Sarah Rubens, owner of Seeds to Sanctuary. "If you skip pruning, parsley can become leggy and weak, and the lower leaves may turn yellow and die off." So, how exactly do you prune parsley? We asked Rubens to share her expert tips, like the proper technique and knowing when the time is right to prune. Meet the Expert Sara Rubens is the owner of Seeds to Sanctuary, a garden design company in Davidson, NC. How to Prune Parsley Before you take a pair of garden shears to your plant and begin cutting away, it's important to know the proper technique to prune parsley correctly. Many people make the mistake of pruning too much of the plant or cutting too close to the bud, which harms your plant and stunts its growth. Rubens says all you need is a pair of sharp garden shears or scissors on hand to make a clean cut within each stem. Then, she says to use your shears or scissors to snip the stems at the base of the plant near the soil instead of cutting off the leaves. "Focus on cutting the outer, older stems first and leaving the younger, inner ones to continue growing. This method promotes healthy, continuous growth," she says. When to Prune Parsley You may be used to growing certain flowers like hydrangeas, roses, or peonies that require pruning to maintain the plant's shape, control diseases, or encourage healthy blooms for next season. Pruning parsley is similar, but you're looking for different signs that indicate it's time to prune, and there are different reasons why pruning is essential for this herb. While flowers mostly need pruning after they've bloomed, parsley needs to be pruned while it's still growing once the plant has become established. "The best time to prune parsley is once the plant has become established and is producing several stems—typically a few weeks after planting," Rubens says. She also notes that the earlier you prune during the growth, the better your harvest will be. "Look for signs such as multiple stems with full leaves and avoid letting the plant get too tall or leggy, which may signal it’s overdue for a trim," she says. "Also, if you see yellowing leaves or a flower stalk forming, it’s time to act fast, as parsley will soon bolt and go to seed." Parsley Care Tips Pruning parsley is a relatively simple task that's much easier than pruning flowers. While this task is crucial for the herb's growth, there are a few other important care tips that lend a hand towards optimal plant production. Rubens says sunlight is key to allowing your parsley plant to thrive with its growth. She recommends giving your parsley plant at least six hours of sunlight a day, as well as keeping the soil moist but not overly soggy. "Parsley appreciates well-drained soil and regular harvesting, which actually stimulates more growth," she says. "Fertilize sparingly with a balanced, organic fertilizer every few weeks to support healthy foliage. Watch for pests like aphids and treat them early if needed." Lastly, Rubens says if you start to notice your parsley plant flowering, then it means it's at the end of its life cycle. "You can try to delay bolting by cutting the flower stalks immediately, but the flavor often changes once this process begins."

Gardening

Don’t Cut Too Soon—The Right Way to Harvest Rosemary Without Ruining Your Plant

Fragrant rosemary is a staple in your culinary toolkit—and it's even better when you've harvested your own. Fresh rosemary is more flavorful and aromatic than dried, and the plant is easy to grow in your yard, kitchen garden, or even in a container on your patio. Here's how to harvest rosemary the right way, plus tips for storing and preserving this tasty herb for later use. When to Harvest Rosemary You can harvest small amounts of rosemary as needed at any time of year. Summer is also a good time to harvest rosemary to dry, freeze, or otherwise preserve, as warm weather and lots of daylight give the plant the conditions it needs to regrow. However, avoid taking more than 20 percent of the plant at any one time to avoid damaging it and hindering regrowth. Wait until plants are at least 3 years old before harvesting.1 The ideal time to harvest rosemary is in the morning, after any morning dew has evaporated but before the hottest part of the day. For the most flavor, consider harvesting rosemary when buds have formed on the plant but before the flowers have opened, as the oils are most concentrated during this time.2 Note that rosemary flowers are also edible and can be harvested along with the foliage. How to Harvest Rosemary the Right Way Wait until plants are 6 to 8 inches tall before taking your first harvest. Examine your rosemary plant and look for healthy, tender stems. Avoid cutting into woody stems. Use sterilized scissors or pruners to cut tender branches just below a leaf node. To harvest small amounts, cut stem tips—the 2 to 3 inches at the end of each branch. To harvest rosemary for drying or preserving, cut sections of softwood that are around 8 inches long. Avoid removing more than about a quarter of total plant growth at any one time. Wait for small plants to regrow what you've removed before harvesting again. 3 Tip You can support overall plant health by harvesting the tender tips of rosemary regularly. This can encourage a bushier, more compact growth habit while spurring regrowth. Wait until after the plant has flowered to do more significant annual pruning. How to Store Rosemary Here's how to store your rosemary harvest, whether you plan to add the fresh herb to recipes or preserve it for future use. Storing Fresh The best way to store freshly harvested rosemary is in the refrigerator. Wrap the sprigs loosely in a slightly damp paper towel, enclose them in a plastic bag without sealing it, and put them in your vegetable crisper. The herb can last for up to two weeks when stored properly.4 Drying Drying is an easy and hands-off way to preserve rosemary. Rinse sprigs off to remove any dust or dirt, but avoid getting clean sprigs wet. Allow any surface moisture to dry by laying out the rosemary on a clean, dry paper towel. Once dry, cut away any dead or damaged plant growth before tying herbs into loose bundles. Hang the bundles in a warm, dark, dry place with good ventilation. Avoid exposing the rosemary to sunlight, which can cause it to degrade and lose flavor and color prematurely. You can also dry rosemary sprigs in a food dehydrator or by laying the sprigs out on a screen, turning them frequently to help them dry evenly.2 Dried herbs retain their best flavor and aroma for 3 months after harvest when stored at room temperature or up to a year if stored in the freezer.5 Freezing Rinse rosemary sprigs or tips to remove dirt if needed, then allow them to dry thoroughly. Place the herb in a zipper-lock freezer bag and press out the air before sealing. Label the bag with the name of the herb and the date, then store it in the freezer for up to a year. Another option is to strip the leaves from each sprig and place them in ice cube trays. Top off with water or olive oil and freeze, then store the cubes in a zipper-lock bag in the freezer. Avoid refreezing rosemary after it thaws.

Gardening

I Started My First Herb Garden for Under $30 at Trader Joe's, and Now It’s Thriving

I live in New York City, where paved parks are far more common than community gardens—so my lack of gardening experience shouldn't come as a surprise to you. Last year, I moved into a new apartment and have had the pleasure of having not just one, but two balconies. The catch is that they're both tiny, 4x6 foot spaces that can't accommodate much. Since this is my first time having private outdoor space, I was determined to make something of my balcony this year and got the brilliant idea: why don't I start an herb garden? The rest is history. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How I Started My First Herb Garden for Under $30 I'll be very honest upfront: the bulk of my garden cost came from everything but the herbs. I got a small, affordable bag of garden soil for about $10 from my local grocery store, and reused some hanging balcony planters that I had bought for an earlier (failed) attempt at outdoor gardening. The herbs themselves were $2.99 a pop from Trader Joe's, and I got myself some rosemary, cilantro, and basil—all for less than $10! Purchasing planters can obviously push you over that $30 mark, but it doesn't have to. As long as you have a vessel you can drill a drainage hole into, anything can be a planter—even your coffee mugs. Once I got the herbs from Trader Joe's, I took them out of the nursery pot that they came in, gently removed the dirt from around the plant, and then replanted it into my balcony planter with the fresh soil. This might seem like cheating to some since I did not grow these herbs from seed, but I've been known to kill even the toughest plants, so I try to eliminate any factors working against me. And, for the record, there are a lot of factors working against me here: It's my first time gardening outdoors, I've killed more plants than I want to admit, my balcony honestly doesn't get a lot of sunlight, and I don't have any of the tools that most gardeners typically have. How I Keep My Herb Garden Thriving in a Small Space (Without Gardening Experience) I went with herbs because it felt like the most small-space-friendly thing to grow, and I needed something I wouldn't have to repot anytime soon. I was determined to give these plants everything they needed to thrive, so a lot of my garden maintenance looks like moving the pots around to ensure everyone gets the same amount of sunlight. I also established a weekly watering schedule, where I give my herbs a light watering if I know there's rain in the forecast, or a deeper watering if I know we're having a dry spell. Maintenance tasks have never been my thing (I only recently learned that pruning is actually necessary for many plants to thrive) but I've also taken to giving my plants a good prune with kitchen scissors every now and then to promote healthier growth. There was a moment when I thought my herbs with goners for sure, but they're bouncing back and thriving. I haven't harvested any of my herbs yet for use in my kitchen, but my balcony smells fantastic, so I'm winning regardless.

Gardening

You Should Never Grow Mint in Your Garden, Gardeners Say—Here’s Why

Herb gardens are a staple for many gardeners. Not only are herbs fairly easy to grow, but you also get the added benefit of being able to harvest them on a regular basis for your cooking—and say goodbye to wasted store-bought herbs that go off in your fridge. But if you're considering adding mint to your garden—or are already growing it—you may want to think twice. We talked to expert gardeners to find out why you should never grow mint in the garden, and what to grow instead. Meet the Expert Anna Hackman is a farmer and managing member at The Naked Botanical. Edwin Dysinger is the co-founder of Seedtime, a garden planner app. Why You Shouldn't Grow Mint in the Garden Gardeners say you shouldn't grow mint in your garden because it can spread rapidly. "The main reason to not grow mint is that it tends to be very invasive and difficult to get rid of once it has become established," says Edwin Dysinger, co-founder of Seedtime. Anna Hackman, farmer and managing member at The Naked Botanical, agrees, and says mint can very easily crowd out other plants so they don't receive enough water, soil, nutrients, or even sunlight. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Can You Still Grow Mint at Home? If you still want to grow mint at home, you have some options. First, Hackman suggests having dedicated beds for your mint, which is something she does herself in her own garden. "I have dedicated beds for my mints and each mint is separated so one doesn't push the other out," she says. Hackman also says if you do want to grow mint but are worried about it taking over your garden, there's an easy answer: grow it in containers, but don't plant the container in the ground. "You will need to pull out some of the mint periodically, so it doesn't choke itself," she says. "I made the mistake thinking I could contain it in a container buried in my garden bed and mint found its way out." Alternatives to Growing Mint Hackman has a self-professed "mint addiction," and grows several varieties like pineapple mint, green apple mint, spearmint, peppermint, and chocolate mint. She also suggests a couple of alternatives, if you like the aroma and appearance of mint but would rather grow something less invasive in your garden. "If you want to grow a mint-like plant, I recommend mountain mint or lemon balm," she says. "Lemon balm will self-seed but you can cut it before it flowers. It generally stays in the same vicinity and doesn't get that large." Mountain mint, she says, is pollinator-friendly and will attract lots of bees, but is a larger option and can grow up to 40 inches. Hackman says there are a range of varieties of mountain mint to fit your needs.

Gardening

When and How to Harvest Dill For the Freshest Flavor Without Killing Your Plant

Dill plants benefit from repeat harvests, regenerating new growth for fuller, bushier plants. Start harvesting when plants are 5 to 6 inches tall with four or five sets of fronds. Harvest dill seeds for pickling when they are bright green. Dill (Anethum graveolens) is a full-flavored, annual herb that completes its life cycle in one season. Harvesting equates to pruning, which means more growth and a full, bushy habit. Done correctly, you'll enjoy dill for fresh use throughout the growing season. Leaves, flowers, and seeds are all edible. Find out how and when to harvest each part of the plant, along with tips for preserving and storing dill for use over winter. When to Harvest Dill Start harvesting dill fronds when plants reach 5 to 6 inches tall with four or five leaf-bearing stems. This herb grows rapidly, so you can start snipping fairly early in the growing season. For best flavor and moisture content, plan your trip to the herb garden in mid-morning, just after dew has dried but before the heat of the day sets in. Repeat harvests generate new growth to extend the plant's life cycle. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Harvest Dill Dill features upright, branching growth with delicate, alternate, fern-like leaves or fronds. Harvested correctly, plants regenerate, putting out more stems and leaves. Use a small snipper to avoid bruising or stripping stems. Here's what to do. Select a plant with four or five fronds, Use your snipper to make a sharp cut across the leaf stem just above the growth point on the main stem. Look for tips of new fronds starting to emerge along a central stem to locate the right spot. Continue harvesting additional leaves and stems with this method, but remove no more than one-third of the leaves at each cutting. The first few harvests will be small, but the amounts increase as the dill plant puts out new growth. How to Harvest Dill Seeds Once flowers open, flavor concentrates at the top of the stems. Seeds form one to two weeks after flowers appear. For pickling use, harvest heads when seeds are bright green. Yellow seeds aren't quite ready, while brown or black seeds indicate flavor and moisture loss. Cut stems just below the heads and store them whole in plastic bags in the refrigerator or freezer. Fresh dill seeds retain the best flavor for pickling. To harvest seeds for saving, wait until they turn brown or black on the plant. Cut stems just below the heads, tie them together, and place or hang them upside down in a paper bag. Once they're completely dry, shake the bag to separate seeds and stems. Harvest leaves with flower heads After dill flowers, leafy growth ceases so this is a good time to harvest most of the remaining usable leaves on your plant. Tips for Storing Dill Freezing fresh dill is often recommended as a better method for storing, however, it depends on your taste and preference. Freezing preserves color and holds flavor longer. Drying initially concentrates on a spicier flavor with less green taste. Wash dill, run it through a salad spinner, and allow it to dry before storing. Wrap clean, fresh dill stems in a moist paper towel or place leaves in a plastic bag. Keep them in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to two weeks. Leaves can be dried in a low oven or dehydrator. Or tie several stems together and hang them in a dry location out of direct sunlight. Store fresh leaves and seeds for pickling in plastic bags in the freezer for up to 12 months. Expect some flavor loss after six months. Store dried leaves and saved seeds in glass bottles or jars in a cool, dark cupboard. Seeds remain viable for three to five years. Dried leaves lose their green flavor initially, but can be kept for several years.

Gardening

5 Supermarket Herbs You Can Use to Grow Your Own (and Save on Your Next Grocery Run)

Everyone's looking to cut costs these days, and grocery bills are a good place to start. Though not all of us have the luxury of space to start growing our own veggies, herbs are generally low-maintenance and low-material plants you can grow in your own kitchen. Not only that, but some of them you don't even have to buy seeds or a plant for. Here are five herbs you can start from the ingredients you buy at the grocery store for a lower grocery bill and fresher ingredients. Mint Mint is a plant that is famously easy to grow and hard to kill. This is because (when planted in-ground) it's actually considered invasive, meaning it grows robustly, choking out other plants for light and nutrients. In a container on your kitchen counter, however, this just means an endless supply of fresh herbs. To start your own plant, take a few sprigs from the grocery store and place the stems in water. Ensure that no leaves are touching the water, as this can lead to rot, mildew, and mold. Change the water every few days, and in a few weeks, you should start to see root growth. Take these sprigs, plant them in a small container, and ta-da! You've got a plant that will continue to give fresh ingredients whenever you need them. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Basil Basil is not only easy to grow in the kitchen—It will also add a lovely aroma to your space. As with mint, simply pick a few leaves with developed, long stalks from what you bought at the supermarket and place them in water. After a few weeks of changing the water regularly, roots should begin to appear. Replant them in a medium-sized, well-draining pot, and harvest leaves as needed for cooking. Oregano Though it might take a while, oregano is yet another herb you can grow from supermarket propagations. Follow the same steps as for mint and basil: Pick a few healthy stems, put them in a cup of water, and pick off any leaves that might sit on or below the waterline. Change the water every few days to prevent mold, mildew, or rot. When you see roots form, transplant to a well-draining pot with soil. Water and provide light as with any other plant. Rosemary Grow supermarket rosemary the same as basil: Pick sprigs with long, hardy stems and put them in water (with no leaves touching the water). Change water frequently, and plant in a pot when roots have grown out. Thyme For thyme, follow the same processes as for other herbs: Pick strong stems, place in water, replace water every few days, and—when roots have formed after a few weeks—transplant to a well-draining pot with soil and care for normally.

Gardening

Should You Grow Herbs in Pots or in the Ground? We Asked a Gardener for the Best Method

Whether or not you should grow herbs in the ground or in pots depends on your climate and soil. Containers offer the benefit of flexibility, allowing you to customize your soil and herbs' location. Test and understand your soil and the conditions herbs prefer before planting anything in the ground. As we all eye the rising temperatures and grocery store prices, growing your own herbs becomes even more appealing. It's affordable, it's fun, and you get a nonstop supply of herbs (at least for a few months). But is it better to grow herbs in pots or in the ground? We asked a pro gardener to find out the best way to do it for maximum success. Meet the Expert John LoRusso is a master gardener and the University of Connecticut's master gardener coordinator for Windham County, CT. Is It Better to Grow Herbs in Pots or in Ground? Where you should grow herbs depends on the answer to two questions, according to John LoRusso, master gardener and master gardener coordinator for Windham County, CT. He suggests asking yourself what kind of soil are you growing plants in and what kind of climate do you live in. Herbs require excellent drainage and moist (but not wet) soil. If your soils are heavy, it's better to plant your herbs in containers so you can have a lighter soil mix. If you have a very wet climate, there's no way to ease drainage in the ground. If you have a very dry climate, you'll be watering herbs in containers all the time. Containers also have the benefit of flexibility. "Containers also offer the option of being able to be placed at table height for ease of harvest. They can also be moved indoors at the end of the season to extend the harvest," LoRusso says. He recommends unglazed clay pots, which, thanks to their porous material, can be placed in the ground if you so choose and still absorb water and nutrients. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Decide Where to Grow Herbs In very wet climates and backyards with heavy or acidic soil, LoRusso recommends growing herbs in pots. (Most herbs prefer a pH of 6 to 7, so soil that's too acidic also won't treat your herbs well.) With pots, you can get exactly the right soil mix for the type of herbs you're growing, whether you need a lighter mix or one with more organic matter. LoRusso also suggests considering the pots you have on hand and your desired supply of herbs. "The plants are constrained by the pot, and does the gardener have enough pots for all the herbs they want to grow—is there ever enough basil?" LoRusso says. You should also take into account your own care habits. Herbs shouldn't be allowed to dry out and wilt, and the soil in containers will dry out more frequently than the soil in the ground. Are you committed to watering your herbs on a perhaps daily basis? Tip How close you want your herbs to the house could also affect where you grow them. If you want your herbs easily accessible, you might choose to put them in pots at convenient heights near the doorway to your home. Herbs That Grow Best in the Ground The herbs that grow best in ground will depend on your climate. In areas where soil is richer, LoRusso points to basil, dill, parsley, fennel, and chevril. Those herbs can handle higher moisture levels. In areas with sandier soils, lavenders, thyme, and rosemary will do well. If you don't have the appropriate soil for the herb you want to grow, you should grow them in pots. Herbs That Grow Best in Pots Any herb your yard doesn't have the appropriate soil for should be grown in a pot. If you haven't grown plants in your yard's soil before and don't feel confident assessing if it's rich or sandy, a pot is the easy way to go. LoRusso also recommends pots for herbs that love to spread, like mint and spearmint, which if allowed to grow freely will extend throughout (and beyond) your garden bed.

Gardening

Why You Should Always Keep Your Basil From Flowering If You Want to Eat It, Gardeners Say

Basil flowering takes energy from leaf production, causing leaves to become bitter and bad for cooking. Keep basil from flowering by pinching off any flowering bits to redirect energy to the leaves. Prune and pinch your plant regularly to keep it healthy, lush, and useful. With the right love and care for a basil plant, it's not long before you have the main ingredients for delicious culinary recipes and a wonderfully bright addition to your herb garden. But trouble could be brewing if your basil plant grows too far. When flowers appear on a basil plant, it's best to get rid of them and stop them from continuously blooming. But why is it important to keep your basil from flowering? Here's what the experts say happens, and what to do if your plant has already flowered. Meet the Expert Adam Weiss is a master gardener and the founder of Pike Lane Gardens, a wellness program rooted in sustainability bringing organic vegetable gardening to the workplace. Sara Rubens is a certified garden coach and the founder of Seed to Sanctuary, which helps folks create edible gardens. Why Keep Basil From Flowering? Although there are over a dozen different types of basil out there, you'll find that it's better to prevent most from flowering. Flowers can range from white to purple and while they might look nice, this impacts the flavor. "If left to bloom, the plant will redirect its energy toward producing seeds rather than growing new leaves," says master gardener Adam Weiss. "This can cause the plant to slow or stop leaf production, making the existing leaves tough and bitter." Bitter basil defeats the purpose of an herb garden as the leaves become unusable in cooking. The best way to stop this is to prevent basil from flowering. Simply pinch off any flowers or buds to continue redirecting energy to the leaves. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! What Happens If Basil Flowers If basil flowers, it becomes more bitter. That's why pruning basil is a large part of the care requirements for this plant. Have a pair or scissors or shears at the ready to collect leaves and nip anything in the bud before it blooms. "By pinching off the flower buds as soon as you see them, you encourage the plant to keep producing fresh, tender leaves instead of going into reproduction mode, often called bolting," says certified garden coach Sara Rubens. By making use of your basil plant, you're also supporting its health and growth. So don't be shy about snipping off leaves for your projects. "Regularly harvesting basil and removing the top few sets of leaves (including any flower buds) also keeps the plant bushy and vigorous," explains Rubens. "It promotes branching, which leads to a fuller, more productive plant." What to Do If Your Basil Already Flowered Don't worry if your basil has already flowered, you have a few choices to prevent more bitter leaves. "You can still pinch off the blooms and harvest, but the flavor might not be as sweet or intense as it was before," says Rubens. As for any other plants? Keep a watchful eye and stay on top of pruning to avoid losing out on the tastiest flavor. However, you don't have to remove or cut back the ones that have flowered either. "If you’re growing multiple basil plants, you can choose to let a few flowers remain, which will help attract bees and other beneficial pollinators to your garden," says Weiss. "You can then use those flowers to create basil-infused oils and vinegars." Other Basil Care Tips If you're new to growing basil or are after a few extra care tips, here's what to know: Transplant your basil outside at the right time. Weiss says to start it by seed indoors, then move seedlings outdoors once it starts hitting 70°F outside, where they should be spaced 8-10 inches apart. Grow companion plants for basil like asparagus, tomatoes, and chamomile nearby to keep pests at bay and boost the flavor. Don't forget about a good fertilizer. "Periodically use a nitrogen-based fertilizer on your basil plants to stimulate healthy leaf development," says Weiss. Create a regular pruning cadence to prevent blooming and create a plant that's more voluminous.

Gardening

How to Start a Successful Herb Garden and Grow All of Your Favorite Flavors

Pick a space for your herb garden that can provide the proper light, soil nutrients, and humidity your herbs need. Pick and place herbs according to their needs—some plants need less water than others. After harvesting herbs they can either be frozen or dried in order to keep them viable for longer. Herb gardens are the perfect introduction to gardening and supply your senses and pantry with fresh flavors and scents. Whether you plan to grow herbs in containers or a small plot, here are the things you need to know to start a successful herb garden. Pick a Space for Your Herb Garden Herb gardens are so popular because they are easy to start and maintain; they grow quickly and you can begin harvesting within a few weeks. The size of your herb garden is up to you and depends on the quantity and variety of herbs you want to grow. Light Almost all herbs require at least 6 hours of full sun daily. A few such as chervil, mint, chives, and cilantro can be grown in an area with light shade. Soil Herbs need well-draining soil. They will no thrive in heavy, wet soil. Adding compost to clay soil will help improve the structure and drainage. The soil does not have to be highly fertile; too many nutrients tends to produce excessive amounts of poorly-flavored foliage. Temperature and Humidity Mediterranean herbs like basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender like warm, sunny, dry conditions. Most perennial and biennial herbs can overwinter if they are protected with layers of mulch. Established herbs can tolerate dry conditions but supplemental water is recommended during periods of drought. Use mulch to conserve soil moisture, but keep it away from the base of the plants to prevent stem rot. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Pick Which Herbs You Want to Grow Most people plant the herbs they enjoy using for cooking, making teas, or drying for potpourri. Some make selections based on fragrance or bloom color. The beauty of an herb garden is that it is personal to your preferences. It is a good idea to group your chosen herbs by their watering needs to prevent over-watering those that prefer drier conditions. Drought-Tolerant Herbs Borage: Once established, allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Fennel: Drought-tolerant once established; allow the soil to dry between waterings. Lavender: Lavender will not survive wet roots and heavy soil. Marjoram: Drought-tolerant and prefers dry soil with occasional watering. Oregano: Thrives in dry and warm climates with low rainfall levels. Sage: A drought-tolerant plant that prefers soil to dry out between waterings. Rosemary: Prefers slightly drier conditions and minimal watering. Thyme: Water only when the soil is completely dry. Winter savory: Once established, prefers dry soil. Herbs with Moderate Watering Needs Basil: A broadleaf herb, it requires more water than herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage. Bay laurel: For healthy leaves, keep the soil evenly moist. Catnip: A member of the mint family, catnip requires consistent moisture to flourish. Chervil: Prefers evenly moist soil with good drainage. Chives: Although drought-tolerant, chives must be watered evenly throughout the growing season for high yields. Cilantro: The soil should be kept evenly moist for tender leaves. Dill: Requires consistent moisture levels to flower and produce seeds. Lemon balm: Prefers soil that is moist but never wet. Lemon verbena: Requires regular watering. Mint: Thrives around water and can tolerate wet roots. Parsley: Evenly moist soil produces the most tender leaves of flat or curly parsley. Tarragon: Young plants need regular watering to become established. Propagating Herbs There are many ways to propagate herbs, and doing so can keep your herb garden fresh and perpetually growing for years. By Seed Nearly all herbs grow well from seed that you've saved or purchased. Fine herbs like anise, cilantro, dill, and fennel should be directly sown into the garden once the danger of frost has passed because they do not transplant well. Basil, parsley, sage, and thyme can be started indoors and transplanted into the garden when temperatures warm. After planting seeds in well-tilled soil with good drainage, water lightly until they germinate. From Cuttings To quickly establish new plants, herbs can be propagated from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing; select a 3 to 4-inch stem that is healthy and tender. Strip the leaves off the bottom two inches and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Place the stem in a small pot of moistened potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag and place it in an area with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist and remove the plastic bag when new leaves begin to grow. Transplant the cutting into the garden once the plant has at least 3 or 4 sets of new leaves. By Division Herbs that have a clumping habit like tarragon, chives, and mint can be divided to create new plants. Use a garden trowel to gently dig up the clump of herbs. Use a clean, sterile knife to separate individual plants and replant or share them with others. Harvesting Herbs Once an herb plant has enough foliage to maintain growth, fresh leaves can be harvested. It's best to harvest herbs before they flower or go to seed because leaf production declines. Snip stems at a leaf node with sharp, sterile clippers. For the best flavor, pick leaves or seeds after the morning dew has evaporated but before temperatures are high. Before using, discard any bruised or soiled leaves and inspect the herbs for insects or foreign matter. Rinse the herbs under running water and shake gently to remove excess moisture. How to Preserve Herbs The two best methods for preserving herbs are freezing and drying. Depending on the herbs you're drying, one method might suit your needs better than the other. By Freezing Tender herbs like basil, chives, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, mint, parsley, and tarragon freeze well in small batches. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat the herbs dry. Place the herbs in a freezer bag, seal the bag, and place it in the freezer. To freeze in pre-measured portions, chop the herbs finely and place them in an ice cube tray. Add a small amount of water and allow the tray to freeze. When solid, pop out the cubes and store them in plastic bags. By Drying Rosemary, sage, thyme, and winter savory are the easiest herbs to dry and will retain the most flavor and color. After harvesting and rinsing the herbs, pat them dry with a paper towel. Form small bunches and tie them with cotton string. Hang the bunches upside down in a warm, well-ventilated place until the moisture evaporates. Avoid hang in direct sunlight that can strip flavor and color. The herbs are dry when the leaves crumble and the stems break when bent. Store dried herbs whole, crumbled, or ground in a cool, dark spot in a labeled airtight container for up to six months for the best flavor.

Gardening

How Often to Water Your Lemon Tree for Maximum Growth—2 Rules Gardeners Swear By

Having fresh lemons for drinks and cooking is the best part of growing a lemon tree in your garden or a container, and proper watering is essential to ensure the tree sets and grows enough fruit. Learn how often and the right way to water a lemon tree for maximum growth. How Often to Water a Lemon Tree Watering frequency depends on the age of your lemon tree, weather conditions, and whether it is planted in the ground or a container. Garden-Grown Lemon Trees If you are planting a new lemon tree, frequent watering is important for growth and to help the tree adapt to its new environment. When planting the tree, be sure the soil is wet to a depth of at least 3 inches. Then water the tree 2 to 3 times per week for approximately the first month. Monitor rainfall in your area, and if you receive 1/2 inch (or more) during a single rainy day, do not water for a couple of days to prevent overwatering. Once established, allow the top 3 inches of soil to dry before watering. Mature trees need deep watering two times per month in warm weather and less frequent watering in cool weather. Do not provide additional irrigation during rainy periods. Container-Grown Lemon Trees Container-grown lemon trees need more frequent watering. Water regularly, when the top 2–3 inches of soil dry out. Frequency depends on whether you use a plastic or terracotta pot. Always be sure the container has good drainage because soggy roots will reduce fruit production and may cause the lemon tree to die. The Right Way to Water a Lemon Tree Whether the tree is planted in the garden or a container, the right way to deliver water is slowly, at the soil level. For established trees, water under the canopy and slightly beyond the drip line. A drip irrigation hose will add moisture slowly and allow it to seep into the soil before running off. Overhead irrigation is discouraged to prevent leaf disease and spotting. Water deeply until the soil is moist at least 3 inches deep to establish a strong root system. It is better to skip a watering than to apply small amounts of water every day. Common Lemon Tree Maintenance In addition to giving a lemon tree adequate irrigation, there are other components of routine care that you should do to keep the tree healthy. Mulching In the garden, maintain a 3–4 inch layer of organic mulch under the tree to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Keep the mulch 6 to 12 inches away from the trunk. Fertilizing For newly planted trees, use a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer (1 tablespoon per month) in the watering solution during the spring and summer growing season. Increase the amount by the age of the tree each month until the tree is four to five years old. Mature trees need about one pound of a balanced NPK fertilizer per year. Always read the package directions for application. For container-grown lemon trees, use a complete citrus fertilizer with micronutrients and follow the label directions for the application, depending on the size of your tree. Pruning Pruning to open the center of the tree to receive more sunlight will increase fruit production. For young trees, prune only to remove suckers along the trunk and any vertical watersprouts that are too close to other branches. Once the tree is mature, around 5 years, remove any dead, crossing, or too closely spaced wood that forms in the center. Prune off branches that touch the ground. Finally, prune to control size if it is crowding other trees. Prune in late winter or early spring. Overwintering and Frost Protection Most garden lemon trees have some cold tolerance, but will suffer when the temperature drops below 28 degrees for more than a few hours. If freezing temperatures are predicted, pick any ripe fruit and cover the trunks of young trees with burlap or newspaper to insulate them. Cover the foliage of small trees with a sheet or burlap. Be sure to remove the protection when the temperatures rise above freezing. If the tree is damaged by frost, remove damaged fruit, but wait several months before pruning damaged leaves or branches. Container-grown lemon trees in colder growing zones should be brought inside before the first predicted frost of the season. Harvesting Lemons Allow lemons to ripen fully on the tree because the fruit does not continue to ripen once picked. Taste fruit periodically and pick when it suits your taste. It is normal for a tree to drop many of its young fruit. Many varieties have a heavy crop one year, then a light crop the next year.

Gardening

Want Juicier Strawberries? How to Harvest Them Without Wrecking Your Plant

There’s nothing more delicious than intensely sweet, sun-warmed, home-grown strawberries harvested from your yard—especially when they cost a fraction of the price of store-bought varieties. Selecting the right type of strawberry, providing top-class care, and harvesting at the right time and with the right techniques means you can enjoy the freshest of fruit throughout the summer. Learn when and how to harvest strawberries to make the most of your patch's pickings. When to Harvest Strawberries Harvest your strawberries when the fruits are uniformly red (regardless of what size they are), without any visible white patches. Most strawberry varieties' fruits fully ripen about 28 to 30 days after the plants bloom. However, the timing of strawberry harvest depends on the variety you’re growing, the planting date, and local conditions. During the peak harvest period, you'll need to pick strawberries every other day when the weather is warm and every three to four days when conditions are cooler. June-Bearing Strawberries June-bearing strawberries produce one fruit crop per year. The year after planting, you should be able to harvest from your plants for around three to six weeks at some point starting in late spring or early summer. Harvest timings vary depending on your local climate and whether the strawberries are rated as early, midseason, or late varieties. Everbearing Strawberries You’ll be able to harvest from your everbearing strawberries twice a year—once in early summer and again in late summer. However, be aware that they don’t tend to be as productive as June-bearing or day-neutral varieties, so your harvest will probably be smaller. Day-Neutral Strawberries Providing temperatures remain between 40ºF and 90ºF, you should be able to harvest day-neutral strawberries throughout the growing season. This can start as early as May for some cultivars and climates and go all the way through to the first hard frost around October. Avoid Overripe Strawberries Leaving strawberries on the vine too long encourages mold, which can spread to other plants. The fruits also lose their intensely sweet flavour and can turn mushy. How to Harvest Strawberries Perfecting your strawberry picking practices means the fruits will better retain their firmness and flavor. Carefully inspect your vines and fruits: Those red, ripe berries can be hiding amongst the tangle of runners produced by these low-growing vining perennials. Leave some stem attached: Use your fingers or small, sterile pruning shears to pinch off around 1/4 inch of the stem below the fruit rather than pulling them off by the little green cap. This minimizes the chance of damaging the fruit, keeping your berries fresh for longer. Eat while they’re fresh: Garden-grown strawberries taste better than store-bought, but they don’t last as long. They taste delicious when freshly picked, or you can store them in the fridge for a few days to a week. Repeat the process every two to four days: This reduces the risk of diseases spreading and improves harvestable yields. If you spot any wounded or moldy berries in your vines, it’s best to remove them immediately. Strawberry Care Tips Providing optimal care and conditions means your strawberry harvest will be healthier and heftier. Keep these tips in mind to make the most of your crop. Select a sunny site: Strawberries need a full sun position to produce the best harvest. Ten or more hours is ideal. Don’t forget to feed: Your strawberry plants will appreciate a loamy soil rich in organic matter such as leaf compost or manure. When and what you fertilize your strawberries with depends on the variety you’re growing and your soil composition. Tidy your plants: Pruning strawberries by removing runners and thinning out these fast-growing vines directs energy to the mother plant and promotes good air circulation. Watch out for weeds: These can quickly outcompete your sensitive, shallow-rooted strawberry plants. Hand weeding is the safest option if you see them sprouting up between your strawberry plant rows. Protect your plants from frost damage: If temperatures drop below 15°F in your region, winterize your strawberry plants. Cover these perennials with a generous layer of insulating straw mulch or row covers that you can remove when it gets warmer in the spring.

Gardening

Don’t Let Splitting Tomatoes Ruin Your Harvest—How to Save Them Fast

After tending to your tomato plants for weeks, cracks are a common but frustrating sight. Split tomatoes are generally safe to eat, but the exposed flesh does shorten their shelf life since they are more prone to pests and bacteria. That's why getting to the bottom of why it's happening will allow you to enjoy your tomato bounty at your own pace. Learn the most common reason tomatoes split on the vine (it's actually a little surprising), plus other contributing factors. Why Tomatoes Split on the Vine Inconsistent watering: The most common reason tomatoes split on the vine is rapid water fluctuations resulting from a combination of overwatering and underwatering your plants. Too much nitrogen: Nitrogen speeds up tomato growth, but too much of it can cause splitting. Over-ripening: Allowing your tomatoes to over-ripen can cause them to swell and split. This can happen on or off the vine. 4 Signs Splitting Might Happen Soon Small cracks are forming: Pay attention to the area of your tomatoes around their stems. If you notice any small cracks, pick and enjoy your tomatoes before they develop full-on splits. A rainstorm is coming: A fast and furious downpour can cause your tomatoes to soak up too much water at once, especially after a dry spell. The soil has dried out: If you've accidentally allowed your tomato plant's soil to dry out during the tomato ripening stage, your next harvest might contain a few splits. The leaves and vines are growing rapidly: If your tomato plant foliage has been growing particularly fast this year, it could be a sign that there is too much nitrogen in the soil. How to Prevent Tomato Splitting The key to preventing your tomatoes from splitting is to provide them with a consistent water source. Both overwatering and underwatering your tomatoes can cause splits, so aim to water them every three to four days for a total of 1 to 2 inches per week during their fruiting stage. Keep the top 2 to 3 inches of soil moist, but never soggy (especially if you are growing them in containers). Additionally, if you notice the forecast is calling for heavy rain, consider harvesting the tomatoes that are showing some color ahead of the storm. They will ripen off the vine and will be less likely to split in the process. It's also a good idea to test the nitrogen content in your soil when your tomato plants get close to the fruiting stage. You can use an at-home testing kit that reveals whether there is a surplus. Adding mulch can lower the soil's nitrogen content. Lastly, opt to grow tomato varieties bred to have more flexible skin. Certain varieties, like Big Beef, Big Boy, and Box Car Willie, are less prone to cracking.

Gardening

5 Reasons Your Tomatoes Have Black Bottoms—And How to Fix It Fast

Growing tomatoes is an ideal option for beginner vegetable gardeners. They’re pretty easy to cultivate and, when you get conditions and care right, you can enjoy a bumper crop. However, poor practices can lead to problems with tomato plants. There are several possible reasons why your tomatoes have ugly black spots on the bottom. Learning about the causes, whether your fruits are salvageable, and how to prevent the problems going forward will help you yield the most handsome, healthy harvest. 5 Reasons Why Your Tomatoes Have Ugly Black Spots on the Bottom Being aware of some of the common reasons for tomatoes developing unsightly black patches can help you take steps to prevent inedible fruits. Anthracnose: A common fungal rot that ripe and overripe tomatoes are particularly susceptible to, especially when they’re close to wet ground. The black spots start small, circular, and depressed, growing over time until the entire fruit rots. The spores can spread to other tomato plants. Bacterial spot: The fruit develops small, brown to black spots that can fall away, leaving a hole. This infection can spread, and you shouldn’t eat the fruit as it can host secondary pathogens. Bacterial speck: This infection commonly occurs during persistent cool, wet weather. The raised spots that appear on the fruits are smaller than those caused by bacterial spot—around the size of a pencil tip. Blossom end rot: Irreversible water-soaked lesions caused by calcium deficiency. It doesn’t spread to other tomatoes, so you can just remove the blackened fruit. Early blight: This fungal tomato plant disease causes brown to black, leathery, sunken spots with concentric rings developing on the fruit. If you don’t take prompt action, early blight can result in significant crop loss. 7 Ways to Prevent Black Spots on Tomatoes Preventative measures vary depending on the type of tomato plant problem that’s causing the black spots. Below are some cultural best practices and other tips that can help reduce the risk of many diseases or fungal infections from developing. Select the right cultivar: Some tomato varieties are better suited to specific conditions, and others are more resistant to certain diseases. Plant at the right time: Avoid transplanting tomato seedlings too early. If the soil is too cold, it can affect root development and essential calcium uptake. Get it right with spacing and air circulation: Don’t have your tomato plants crowded too close together. Staking and pruning tomato plants can also help. Poor airflow promotes pathogens. Provide the right nutrients: Fertilize heavy-feeding tomatoes regularly, especially when growing in pots. Testing your soil and checking formulas helps, as overfertilizing (especially during early fruiting) and excess nitrogen can promote disease-related black spots. Minimize stress: Avoid over- or underwatering and water tomato plants at the base rather than overhead to prevent wet leaves. A layer of mulch can help to promote even moisture. Use shade cloths to protect your plants from the scorching summer sun. Keep weeds at bay: Pull unwanted interlopers out of your tomato rows. Weeds can encourage pests, cause airflow issues, and use up nutrients that heavy-feeding tomatoes will appreciate. Rotate crops: Allowing two to three years in between planting tomatoes (and other species in the nightshade family) in the same location can help prevent pathogens from recurring. How to Fix or Revive Tomatoes With Black Spots Once your tomatoes develop black spots, you won’t be able to reverse this problem. However, in some instances, changing watering practices, pruning away problematic fruit and leaves, improving airflow, or treating with a fungicide can help prevent the problem from worsening or spreading. Sometimes, you’ll need to remove all infected plants. Don’t leave infected plant material to decompose in the ground or on compost piles, as this can increase the risk of spreading disease.

Gardening

Is Your Strawberry Plant Wilting? 5 Causes and How to Save It Fast

Strawberries are easy to grow and nothing tastes better than a warm, ripe strawberry picked fresh from the plant. Perfect for garden beds, vertical containers, and hanging baskets, strawberry plants require nutrient-rich soil, full sun, and the right amount of water. Unfortunately, there are a few things that can be devastating to your plants and cause wilting and possibly death. Learn five reasons why your strawberry plants are wilting and what you need to do to fix the problem. Overwatering It is easy to get overzealous and provide too much water to strawberry plants, especially those grown in containers or compacted garden soil. Overwatering is evident if there are brown circles on the leaves, droopy or wilted leaves, smelly roots, or moldy fruit. Check if the issue is overwatering by sticking your finger into the soil at least 2 inches deep. If the soil is soggy, you're watering too much. Solution: Stop watering for several days. Consider repotting container-grown plants with better-draining soil with more sand or vermiculite. In the garden, add compost or sand to improve drainage. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Underwatering Strawberry plants need the equivalent of one inch of rainwater per week to produce fruit. If the rains don't come, the first sign of underwatering is crispy, brown leaves and withered stems. Solution: The best way to monitor springtime rains is with a rain gauge. If the rains don't come, a soaker hose or drip system in the garden is ideal to keep the leaves and fruit dry while providing moisture to the roots. Check container-grown strawberries daily to be sure the soil is kept consistently moist but not soggy. Leaf Spot Fungus Phomopsis leaf spot usually develops in the fall or spring shortly after planting. It spreads rapidly and remains active as long as there is green foliage on the plants. If plants become dormant in winter, the disease will start again in the spring. Early signs are one to six circular, red to purple spots on leaflets. The spots enlarge, develop gray centers, and cause the leaves to wilt and die. Solution: Apply a fungicide when the fungus appears. For strawberry beds that have had previous problems, apply the fungicide before symptoms appear as new growth begins and continue applications throughout the spring following the product label directions. Fusarium Wilt Fusarium wilt caused by a soil fungus affects strawberry plants and causes wilting, stunted growth, and drying and death of older leaves. Plants bearing heavy fruit loads or subjected to stress often show the most severe symptoms. Solution: Select strawberry varieties that are resistant to Fusarium wilt. Practice good plant management including watering the plants appropriately to reduce stress and ensure proper development. Control spider mites that cause excessive stress to plants. Rotate planting site at least every four years. Powdery Mildew You can quickly identify powdery mildew on strawberry plants by the fluffy, white patches on stems and leaves. If left uncontrolled, the edges of the leaves will begin to curl up and wilt. Solution: A fungicide should be applied preventively if you had problems last year or at the first sign of disease to control powdery mildew. This is especially important when using a protectant fungicide, such as elemental sulfur. How to Prevent Strawberry Wilting Since strawberries are one of the first fruits to appear in the spring, take advantage of those first days in the garden and monitor your strawberry patch. Attention and quick corrective action will help keep plants healthy. Water correctly. Provide an appropriate amount of irrigation to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Inspect plants for pests. Spider mites love strawberries and can stress plants. Check the plants regularly and control the pests. Treat strawberry diseases as soon as they appear. Rotate planting areas. This is true especially if strawberries are grown near brassicas (broccoli or cabbage). Clean garden tools and gloves. This prevents the spread of diseases.

Gardening

Are You Picking Your Cantaloupe the Right Way? What to Know Before Your Next Harvest

Timing is important when growing cantaloupe. The right amount of water and heat at the right time makes the difference between sweet, juicy melons and less desirable fruit. When your cantaloupe crop is successful, harvesting melons at peak flavor is the next step to enjoying this summer favorite. Why Timing Matters for Cantaloupe Harvest Once cantaloupe is removed from the vine, it is as sweet as it will ever be. It's not like tomatoes that continue to ripen in a sunny window. Underripe cantaloupes are hard, crunchy, and lack flavor. Overripe fruits are mushy and sweet to the point of fermentation. They also may have cracked or developed mold, rendering them inedible. Harvesting the perfect, sweet, fragrant cantaloupe is easy when you see these signs. 5 Signs Your Cantaloupe Is Ready to Pick Separates Easily From Stem: Growers use the term "full slip" to describe how the melon detaches from the vine. Look for small cracks and a slight depression around the stem. A tug on the fruit causes it to part from the stem easily. Full slip is often described as the best way to know a cantaloupe is ready for harvest. Fragrance: A perfectly ripe cantaloupe is fragrant with a sweet, honeylike scent. Raised Rind: Look for raised ridges on the rind running from stem to blossom end at regular intervals around the melon. Color: Rind should be gray or beige and may show some peachy color. A green rind indicates the cantaloupe is not yet ripe. Dry Leaves: Dry vine leaves near the stem indicate melons are either ripe or close to being ready. 6 Signs Your Cantaloupe Is Either Overripe or Not Yet Ready Stem tightly attached: When you give a tug on the melon, but it remains firmly attached to the stem, it's not ready to pick. Green color: An underripe cantaloupe has a green rind. Lacks fragrance: Ripe melons are fragrant. No scent indicates the fruit is immature and not ready for harvest. Mushy spots or cracks in rind: Cantaloupe rind should be hard. If it gives when pressed or has mushy, sunken spots or cracks, the fruit is overripe. Fermented fragrance: Sugars in overripe fruit start to ferment and have a vinegary or alcoholic odor. Mold: Black or greenish mold on the rind or around the stem indicates the melon is overripe and should be discarded. How to Harvest and Store Cantaloupe When cantaloupe is ready to harvest, give the fruit a tug to separate it from the stem. The stem end should show a slight depression with a little bit of give when pressed. Cutting fruit from the vine is not recommended. Handle harvested melons gently to avoid bruising. Store whole, ripe melons in the refrigerator for up to five days. If your cantaloupe isn't fully ripe, you can keep it at room temperature for several days. It won't become any sweeter, but it may soften. Wash the rind before cutting and remove it before refrigerating. Prepared melon keeps in the refrigerator in an airtight container for three or four days. Cantaloupe can also be cubed, frozen on trays, then packed into plastic bags or containers. It retains flavor for up to six months in the freezer but is best used in drink mixes or as an ingredient in cooked recipes.

Gardening

The Best Gardening Tip I Ever Got Was From My Neighbor, and My Harvests Grow More Every Year

Twenty years ago, when I announced to our neighbor—a spirited Pennsylvania Dutch farmer and World War II veteran—that I was going to start a garden, the first thing he told me was not to plant my tomatoes before Memorial Day. Given that tomatoes start to appear at local nurseries as early as late April—around the time when the last spring frost occurs in our area—that seemed a bit late, but I followed Ethelbert’s advice and never veered from it. Thanks to his advice, I've been harvesting a bountiful crop every year for more than two decades. The Best Gardening Tip I Ever Got As I learned more about the growing conditions of crops, I understood that just because there is no more frost does not mean the weather is conducive to growing tomatoes yet. Tomatoes thrive in warm temperatures between 65°F and 85°F during the day, and 60°F to 70°F at night. In northeast Pennsylvania, where I live, it is not unusual for temperatures to drop below 50°F in May. Cool weather does not often kill the plants, but even one night of cold stunts their growth. I usually buy my tomato plants just before Mother’s Day and keep them in a small portable greenhouse. On warm days, I open the greenhouse all the way, and during the nights, I close it. On especially cold nights, I cover the entire greenhouse with a couple of old sheets. As a result, I am spared what folks who planted earlier go through—they anxiously watch the weather forecast and scramble to cover their tomatoes in the garden on chilly nights. After Memorial Day, the tomatoes are out of the woods temperature-wise. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! How to Control the Growth of Tomato Plants Tomatoes that are planted when the weather is warm start visibly growing after a few days to a week (in less-than-ideal conditions, it takes longer). Once that happens, it’s key to check on them at least every other day because the plants grow at an astounding pace and indeterminate tomato plants turn into a messy jungle and if you don’t support and prune them. I am not a big fan of tomato cages because I find that they constrict the airflow within the plant too much, which encourages the spread of diseases. Instead, I drive a 6-foot steel fence post into the ground for each tomato plant and then tie the main branches to it individually. It’s more work but it pays off, also with easy harvesting. The other element of tomato care is regular pruning. It is not optional—it's an absolute must. In years when I was too busy to keep up with removing the suckers, I paid the price later when I struggled to tame an overgrown plant with excessive foliage and few tomatoes. 4 Tips I Wish I Had Been Given as an Amateur Gardener Since I am indebted to Ethelbert for his great advice, I've compiled a list of four tips I wish I had been given at the start of my gardening journey to pass onto others. Mulch Your Vegetable Garden Hardwood chip mulch does an excellent job at keeping soil moisture in and suppressing weeds, around ornamental and edible crops. I only started it a few years ago when I was able to get free arborist chips from a local tree removal company that was happy to find a place to drop them. Unlike commercial mulch that you purchase at a nursery or garden center, fresh arborist chips are less processed and packed with nutrients, and stay open enough to let in rain, but pack tightly enough to block weeds. Keep Watering New Plants As a new gardener, I followed the standard recommendation of watering immediately after planting, but would let a few days pass before watering again for a days after that. Now, when there is no substantial rain, I water new perennials and annuals every day for about a week, and longer in hot weather. Since I have been more diligent with watering, I have had fewer losses. Focus on Natives In my early days of gardening, I planted just about anything I found attractive that fit our hardiness zone. Looking back, I wish I had been aware of native plants earlier. Today, I am only planting native plants. They are much better adapted to our local climate, have fewer disease and pest issues, have tremendous wildlife value, serve as homes to hundreds of insects important to our food chain, and they are just as beautiful as any introduced species. Wait Out Seasonal Pests Every spring, the wild arugula I was so looking forward to had hundreds of tiny holes chewed by flea beetles that it became inedible. Then I realized that the pest is less active in the fall, and voila! If I plant arugula for a fall harvest, there are almost no flea beetles around. Similarly, I spent lots of time plucking Japanese beetles off my raspberry plants in mid-summer, not knowing that the beetles are gone by the time large and juicy fall-bearing raspberries ripen, so I can save myself that effort.

Gardening

Only Seeing Flowers, Not Cucumbers in Your Cucumber Plant? This Is What's Missing

If you’ve nursed your cucumber plant into a large, leafy vine, it can be disappointing and confusing when it hardly produces any fruit. Learning about the difference between male vs female cucumber flowers, how to prevent flower drop, and the ideal conditions for pollination can help you maximize your harvest. 5 Clear Ways to Tell Male and Female Cucumber Flowers Apart Most cucumber varieties are monoecious, meaning they have pollen-producing male flowers and fruit-producing female flowers on the same plant. When growing cucumber plants, the healthy ratio of male to female flowers is around 3 to 1. Ways to tell male and female cucumber flowers apart include: The ovary: Female flowers have a tiny, bulbous form at the top of the stem behind the flower which is the ovary. Once the pollinated flower falls off, the fruit will develop from this fertilized pod. The stigma: The pollen is deposited on this cluster of bumps at the center of the female flowers. The anther: This is the long part of the pollen-producing stamen in the center of male flowers. Stem length: Male flowers have longer, slimmer stems than female flowers, which are located closer to the main vine of the plant. Bloom time: Male flowers appear on cucumber plants before the female flowers. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Why Your Cucumber Plants Aren't Producing Cucumbers If you don’t have the right ratio of male to female cucumber flowers and aren’t promoting pollination, your plants won’t produce a lot of fruit. Some reasons for pollination problems and premature flower drop include: Plant stress: Avoid root disturbance when transplanting, under or over-watering, overcrowding, intense heat and sun, and too much nitrogen in fertilizers. Insecticides: Applying broad-spectrum bug sprays can kill off the beneficial pollinators as well as plant pests. Cold and wet weather: There will be fewer bees and other beneficial bugs around to cross-pollinate cucumber flowers if the weather is colder or wetter during the growing season. Where possible, plant your cucumbers so they flower when the weather is drier. What to Do If You Only See Male Flowers Don't panic if you’re only seeing male flowers on your cucumber plant. They always appear first, and female flowers usually appear about one or two weeks later. However, to ensure your plant continues to produce abundant blooms of both sexes, keep soil consistently moist but not soggy, space your plants about 15 to 18 inches apart with 4 to 6 feet between rows, and plant in a sunny but not overly hot spot in your yard; lower light conditions result in fewer female flowers, but higher temperatures (86°F and above) promote male flower production.1 How to Hand-Pollinate Cucumber Flowers If your yard lacks natural pollinators or you have a gynoecious cucumber plant that is bred to bear predominantly female flowers, hand-pollinating from monoecious plants may be helpful or necessary to boost fruit production. Here's how you can hand pollinate your plants: Cucumber flowers only bloom for a few hours. Observing the time they open during the day means you can schedule a pollination session. Use a small paint brush or cotton swab to gather pollen from the central anther of the male flower. Gently dab the brush or the swab into the central section of the female flower to cover in the collected pollen. For best success, repeat this process with as many female flowers as possible, using pollen from multiple male flowers.

Gardening

6 Reasons Why Your Tomatoes Grew Too Small This Year, and How to Fix It

Tomatoes are a great place to start if you're looking to grow your own produce, but that doesn't mean they're not without their own issues. Making it through the growing phase, having ducked and dodged blight, hornworms, blossom end rot, and all the other problems a tomato plant might run into can feel like a success of its own. Which is why it's extra disappointing when the fruit is just... small. Here are six reasons why your tomatoes are too small, and all the ways you can correct them for a bountiful harvest in the future. Extreme Drought or Heat Most varieties of tomato require full sun, but that doesn't mean they're necessarily fit for extreme conditions. Heat and drought are the number one reason why tomato fruits fall short of their expected size. It's important to keep an eye on soil moisture levels and keep plants well-watered with at least 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. The soil should never dry out; this will lead to quick wilting. Tomatoes don't typically flourish in temperatures above 85°F, but we also can't help where we live. If your local temperatures consistently rise above this, consider investing in a shade cloth, and increase watering to twice daily. Consider planting in a container, where the plants can be moved into the shade—or just out of harsh, direct sun—as needed. Want more gardening tips? Sign up for our free gardening newsletter for our best growing tips, troubleshooting hacks, and more! Poor Pollination If pollinating by hand, this should occur at least every other day during the growing season. If you're relying on pollinators to get the job done, consider making your yard more pollinator-friendly: plant attractive plants, provide a source of water (not stagnant), and decrease potential predators like bats or pets. Too Many Fruits It's important to pick fruits as they ripen; leaving tomatoes on the vine can not only cause splitting and other damage to the fruit itself, but also increase the number of fruits a single plant has to put effort into growing and supporting. You'll know tomatoes are ready to pick when it is a vibrant shade of its expected color, has a shiny look, feels tender, and comes off the vine easily. Too Much Nitrogen An excess of nitrogen in the soil has been known to cause smaller fruits. If you're unsure about your soil composition, you can buy a DIY test kit to gain insight into what's happening below the surface. If nitrogen levels are too high, consider working in a lower nitrogen fertilizer to balance it out. Pests Pests cause stress on plants that divert their energy to healing and surviving, instead of thriving and producing delicious, juicy tomatoes. If you spotted some common tomato pests hanging around your plants as they grow, don't be surprised if your fruit comes out a bit small at the end of the season. Next year, keep a close eye on early warning signs to fight these infestations in their early stages. Watering by hand keeps you close to the plant on a regular basis and makes it easier to spot problems earlier. Plant Diseases The same goes for plant diseases as for pests. Know the early signs of what different common tomato diseases look like, and you'll be able to help your plant fight it off early.

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